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Old 07-02-2020, 09:52 PM   #921
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Looking good Peter
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Old 07-03-2020, 11:03 AM   #922
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Guess which side has the LEDS Head lights installed? And this is in low beam.
My box of LED's came without any documentation, so I had to dig through the forum and consult with Brad on how to wire the low beam.

In my case, I had rotate the three wires 1 slot clockwise. This can be done by either re-pinning the socket or using the supplied adapter.
Late Wayne's excellent description help a lot, thank you Wayne!
So many great people gone and they are missed.
I will repost his pictures in case someone else needs it.
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Old 07-03-2020, 02:03 PM   #923
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Just sent you an IM on those headlights Peter
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Old 07-08-2020, 02:43 PM   #924
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I admit, I did ignore that little bit of rust on the transcooler lines, until I saw the drip. It will only drip with the pump running, so I just blamed the little wetness on "its coming from somewhere" So here is the beef:
The original replacement size on the 4L80E is 5/16x72" standard brake line.
I would venture to bet thats it is the same on the TH400.

Using the full length is pretty much impossible, unless you want to do a lot bending getting it into place. So instead I used 60" with unions to add the smaller sections to the radiator tank and external cooler.
And yes, you absolutely have to use a pipe bending tool to copy the old line.

I could not imagine a favorable outcome, loosing your transfluid going down the road, not to mention the vicinity of the exhaust
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Old 07-08-2020, 03:07 PM   #925
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Nice clean work Peter
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Old 07-08-2020, 03:36 PM   #926
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If you think doing the 2 transmission lines is tough, the fire suppression system I put in the 325LE ate up about 90’ if 3/8” line with a lot of unions (to many to count). When I was all done bending and installing the lines I opened the ball valve to the AFFF bottle and closed it after about 30 seconds. Only 3 leaks. I was glad to have my Snap-On crowfeet and line wrenches to finish the task. Regards, Bob
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Old 07-08-2020, 05:06 PM   #927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobmiller1 View Post
If you think doing the 2 transmission lines is tough, the fire suppression system I put in the 325LE ate up about 90’ if 3/8” line with a lot of unions (to many to count). When I was all done bending and installing the lines I opened the ball valve to the AFFF bottle and closed it after about 30 seconds. Only 3 leaks. I was glad to have my Snap-On crowfeet and line wrenches to finish the task. Regards, Bob

At least, for the most part, you can pick and choose where you want to run those lines. The trans cooler lines do have a mandated route with little room to wiggle.
And I got it done with all my sh it tools, thats worth something
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Old 07-12-2020, 08:36 AM   #928
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Quote:
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Did I mention that I hate those Furnas pressure switches? Only one i could find as a drop in replacement was a 125/95 and I have been having hell to get down to 95/80. I think its not possible to get that range. Best I can get is 100/75 and 100 is seems to be a magic number for compressors to start complaining. I thought I had it set, but after a big road trip today, it didn't want to shut off at 100.
Good report on rpm. Was running a tad over 2000 rpm at 65 with temp at 200


Grrrr, just to mention again how much I hate those Furnas style pressure regulators. It took me a looong time to get the new one I bought to have a range of 75-100. It worked fine until yesterday. Now it shuts off at 85 and comes on at 65. What the heck? I may have to replumb to accommodate a more reliable type unit.
Any suggestions for a good one?
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Old 07-12-2020, 12:37 PM   #929
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I don't know exactly what you mean by Furnas style pressure switch. I have always used a Square D brand switch with no problem. I guess now a days there are many cheap copies around but Square D has been good for many years. It's a pretty simple switch with a couple of springs and a few contacts. Maybe you need to check out some swap meets or garage sales and find one that was made 20 or 30 years ago.
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Old 07-12-2020, 01:13 PM   #930
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I don't know exactly what you mean by Furnas style pressure switch. I have always used a Square D brand switch with no problem. I guess now a days there are many cheap copies around but Square D has been good for many years. It's a pretty simple switch with a couple of springs and a few contacts. Maybe you need to check out some swap meets or garage sales and find one that was made 20 or 30 years ago.

Thanks Dan, I looked at the square D (2nd picture) and they certainly have a much better adjustment mechanism (nuts instead of highly inaccurate plastic screws).
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Old 07-12-2020, 01:50 PM   #931
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The story of the Airstream 310 Jacket

On the Square D pressure switch, the big spring sets the high pressure point, and the little spring sets the differential between high pressure shut off and low pressure pump start. The two interact a little bit, so adjust cautiously and in small increments.

Loosening the nut in the big spring reduces the shutoff pressure. I don’t remember the way the differential nut works but I suspect loosening it reduces the differential pressure. Experiment and let us know...
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Old 07-12-2020, 07:03 PM   #932
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You may want to check the contact rating for the switch. Running
on DC is much harder on contacts than AC. The closest Square D
switch that I found was rated for 1.5 HP motors using AC but only
.25 HP motors using DC.
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Old 07-12-2020, 08:40 PM   #933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air345Fly View Post
You may want to check the contact rating for the switch. Running
on DC is much harder on contacts than AC. The closest Square D
switch that I found was rated for 1.5 HP motors using AC but only
.25 HP motors using DC.

Good point, thanks
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Old 07-13-2020, 12:22 PM   #934
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Quote:
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Good point, thanks
Peter, if you have a relay controlling the compressor with the pressure switch controlling the relay then you don't need to worry about the pressure switch contact rating.
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Old 07-13-2020, 12:25 PM   #935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Peter, if you have a relay controlling the compressor with the pressure switch controlling the relay then you don't need to worry about the pressure switch contact rating.

That is right. Automotive rated stuff will be designed for DC.
It is the AC rated stuff that can cause problems.
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Old 07-13-2020, 01:11 PM   #936
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Quote:
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Peter, if you have a relay controlling the compressor with the pressure switch controlling the relay then you don't need to worry about the pressure switch contact rating.

Excellent!
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Old 07-15-2020, 10:53 AM   #937
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center hanger bearings rubber deteriorated had a good 1/4" play
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Old 07-15-2020, 12:59 PM   #938
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While you have em out, I would replace all the u-joints as well!
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Old 07-15-2020, 02:15 PM   #939
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While you have em out, I would replace all the u-joints as well!
... and getting it balanced. Pulled the parking brake hub, now trying to find the right size rear oil seal
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Old 07-16-2020, 09:01 AM   #940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
center hanger bearings rubber deteriorated had a good 1/4" play
Did you have any vibration coming from the drive line?
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