My Equalizer hitch was damaging my Airstream!

[Hermes]

Since that initial post, I thought it might be useful to give an update on the FES and hitch situation.

So far all is fine. The "round bar and chain" (1000 lbs) hitch model (Eaz-Lift) that was installed to replace the Equalizer works just fine and the front end of our trailer is still rock solid after 20000 miles of driving in all types of road conditions. It's not a scientific experiment but in our case, it solved the problem with all other factors remaining the same.

[Ray Eklund]

I saw the latest posts on this Thread. I discovered that I did not need a WD or SC Hitch to tow any of my Airstreams with a F350 tow vehicle.

I believed the dealer selling me the hitches... you need this or you will be towing an unstable Airstream.

That is not true. Towing on the Ball is smooth and not one issue. I have been towing since 2006, so I am not a Newbie AND just discovered that with the proper sized tow vehicle, like my F350 towing a 27 foot FBQ... it is a non issue needing a heavy hitch and hardware.

I have been sold a Bill of Goods that I did not need. I have one indent that split, between two buck rivets, in the front of my 27FBQ. I reinforced the structure, myself under the inside front frame, with Aluminum strips of angle support and Aluminum Bars to strengthen the side to side of the top of the Frame Member. Bolted with the Airstream nut and bolt with small iron plate.

I doubt if I needed to even do that, by not using a Hitch with WD for SC control. Not needed.

I am not a happy camper. Before I was disappointed. Now, that has exceeded my and many other owner's expectations of being told about the Hitches being sold, Vehicle's that vary from SUV's to F350's to F450's being sold what is not appropriate, and in my case... not needed.

It has been an experience. My Airstream would have been better off had the Dealer told me that a F350 was heavy enough and did not need the expense of a complete WD and SC Hitch.

[10Smiles]

All well and good Mr. Bean. But not all of us have/want/need a one-ton tow vehicle.

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by 10Smiles

All well and good Mr. Bean. But not all of us have/want/need a one-ton tow vehicle.

****
I towed a 2006 23 foot Safari with a 4.7L 2006 mini Toyota pickup and removed the Sway Control as it was not needed. I used the chains to adjust WD and the rear was down some.

I also towed this with a 2008 and a 2012 Toyota Tundra. No problem.

I towed the 25 foot with a 2012 Tundra that sat down onto flat leaf springs, and went to the 2016 F350 Diesel on the Ball after figuring out I did not need 1000# bars for WD or SC.

Sold the 25 foot and a year later purchased a 27FBQ International. Towed the 27 FBQ with the 2016 F350 new off the lot, and the Equalizer Hitch I was said was needed by the Dealer, I discovered the F350 needed no WD or SC.

I have been towing the the 27 FBQ International with the F350 Diesel 4x4 and love it. On the Ball. No Sway as without Weight Distribution for under sized tow vehicles, I would have no SC without needing WD. (If you understand. I am trying to make this short.)

It is the friction of the WD that gives you SC. With NO WD, your SC is not even active. The bars are just sitting on the L brackets doing nothing. Nobody seems to understand. An underweight tow vehicle needs WD to provide SC. This is true fact.

If you are towing a 30 foot Airstream with whatever tow vehicle that is working for you, great. What are you towing with, what is your WD inches needed to get your tow vehicle front end down and has your SC been achieved? How much rear end sag do you have, or have you added support or air bladders or super magnets?

After all the towing I have experienced, since being retired before buying a 2006 trailer, I want what works best for... me. People ask what I tow with, I am happy to tell everyone. The F350 has one extra leaf spring on the rear axle, than a F250. A F250 would have done just as well.

It was money well spent. I have people who want a 2016 F350 Diesel, but am not interested in selling. I plan to tow with the F350 for as long as it is reliable. With 80,000 miles on the odometer, just replaced the rear Michelins as they had 50% wear, to be safe.

I expect to get 200,000 miles with my maintenance routine which I may not out live my tow vehicle. Although it will be attempted.

It is comfortable for City, Town and Towing. People ask what I recommend and I say a F250 or F350 will be adequate, tow safely and have excellent resale value. It is an investment... not an expense to us.

[GOUSC]

Originally Posted by Hermes

Since that initial post, I thought it might be useful to give an update on the FES and hitch situation.

So far all is fine. The "round bar and chain" (1000 lbs) hitch model (Eaz-Lift) that was installed to replace the Equalizer works just fine and the front end of our trailer is still rock solid after 20000 miles of driving in all types of road conditions. It's not a scientific experiment but in our case, it solved the problem with all other factors remaining the same.

Thanks for the update Hermes. Glad to hear all is well regarding your FES issue. I’ve had posts on this issue as well and am happy to say, so far so good as well. My set up - 2018 Globetrotter 27’ FB / Equalizer Hitch with 1,000 lb bars with Gen-Y shank. FES recurred 1 1/4 yrs after fix by JC and using the Gen-Y shank. Had Collin Hyde repair the FRS by adding a front vertical plate / removing the front storage compartment and adding access to that area from inside.

12,000 miles towing since then including I-20 thru Shreveport, LA and Newfoundland, CA with some of the worst roads I’ve driven on. Like you, not scientific but not issues with other factors remaining the same.

[10Smiles]

[QUOTE=Ray Eklund;2666606]****

It is the friction of the WD that gives you SC. With NO WD, your SC is not even active. The bars are just sitting on the L brackets doing nothing. Nobody seems to understand. An underweight tow vehicle needs WD to provide SC. This is true fact.

/QUOTE]

Not necessarily true. I use a Hensley hitch. Their sway control is achieved by projecting the pivot point forward to the rear axle position. No friction at all in the setup. So the spring bars can be limp and you still have sway control.

[gypsydad]

[QUOTE=10Smiles;2666671]

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

****

It is the friction of the WD that gives you SC. With NO WD, your SC is not even active. The bars are just sitting on the L brackets doing nothing. Nobody seems to understand. An underweight tow vehicle needs WD to provide SC. This is true fact.

/QUOTE]

Not necessarily true. I use a Hensley hitch. Their sway control is achieved by projecting the pivot point forward to the rear axle position. No friction at all in the setup. So the spring bars can be limp and you still have sway control.

Agree: with my Blue Ox SC is achieved by putting tension on the sway bars, helping keep trailer straight. Some folks don't want to learn how these systems work.

[DCPAS]

[QUOTE=10Smiles;2666671]

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

****

It is the friction of the WD that gives you SC. With NO WD, your SC is not even active. The bars are just sitting on the L brackets doing nothing. Nobody seems to understand. An underweight tow vehicle needs WD to provide SC. This is true fact.

/QUOTE]

Not necessarily true. I use a Hensley hitch. Their sway control is achieved by projecting the pivot point forward to the rear axle position. No friction at all in the setup. So the spring bars can be limp and you still have sway control.

Also not true on my Recurve R3. Antisway is provided by brake material collar surrounding a pivot point under the ball. You adjust how much friction you want with a bolt.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

I have been sold a Bill of Goods that I did not need.

Except I have a WD hitch and you have a F-350.

[pteck]

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

****
I towed a 2006 23 foot Safari with a 4.7L 2006 mini Toyota pickup and removed the Sway Control as it was not needed. I used the chains to adjust WD and the rear was down some.

I also towed this with a 2008 and a 2012 Toyota Tundra. No problem.

I towed the 25 foot with a 2012 Tundra that sat down onto flat leaf springs, and went to the 2016 F350 Diesel on the Ball after figuring out I did not need 1000# bars for WD or SC.

Sold the 25 foot and a year later purchased a 27FBQ International. Towed the 27 FBQ with the 2016 F350 new off the lot, and the Equalizer Hitch I was said was needed by the Dealer, I discovered the F350 needed no WD or SC.

I have been towing the the 27 FBQ International with the F350 Diesel 4x4 and love it. On the Ball. No Sway as without Weight Distribution for under sized tow vehicles, I would have no SC without needing WD. (If you understand. I am trying to make this short.)

It is the friction of the WD that gives you SC. With NO WD, your SC is not even active. The bars are just sitting on the L brackets doing nothing. Nobody seems to understand. An underweight tow vehicle needs WD to provide SC. This is true fact.

If you are towing a 30 foot Airstream with whatever tow vehicle that is working for you, great. What are you towing with, what is your WD inches needed to get your tow vehicle front end down and has your SC been achieved? How much rear end sag do you have, or have you added support or air bladders or super magnets?

After all the towing I have experienced, since being retired before buying a 2006 trailer, I want what works best for... me. People ask what I tow with, I am happy to tell everyone. The F350 has one extra leaf spring on the rear axle, than a F250. A F250 would have done just as well.

It was money well spent. I have people who want a 2016 F350 Diesel, but am not interested in selling. I plan to tow with the F350 for as long as it is reliable. With 80,000 miles on the odometer, just replaced the rear Michelins as they had 50% wear, to be safe.

I expect to get 200,000 miles with my maintenance routine which I may not out live my tow vehicle. Although it will be attempted.

It is comfortable for City, Town and Towing. People ask what I recommend and I say a F250 or F350 will be adequate, tow safely and have excellent resale value. It is an investment... not an expense to us.

You're a great story teller. At the same time, you speak in anecdotes. Which often are great as experience matters, but just as often present false conclusions. The danger in that is you don't fully understand what you're recommending which will get the next guy in trouble.

[ROBERT CROSS]

[QUOTE=DCPAS;2666838]

Originally Posted by 10Smiles

Also not true on my Recurve R3. Antisway is provided by brake material collar surrounding a pivot point under the ball. You adjust how much friction you want with a bolt.

Yes, it is a FRICTION control hitch, and as such will lose some effective ability under certain conditions…wet.

Bob

[Gene]

[QUOTE=ROBERT CROSS;2667034]

Originally Posted by DCPAS

Yes, it is a FRICTION control hitch, and as such will lose some effective ability under certain conditions…wet.

Bob

Yes, and maybe not so much.

The constant movement of the system will cause some moisture to dry from either friction, heat, or the wind created when moving. Having used an Equalizer for 60,000+ miles with my puny 6,000+ lb. Tundra and driven in rain and snow, it acted just the same as it did when dry, but that's just anecdotal evidence.

How much reduction in effective ability is unknown until some guys with fancy tools and the money to measure it in a controlled situation actually do check it. The tests done on autos and truck for safety and realability are expensive. To do them for RV's is something no one wants to spend money on.

[rodsterinfl]

On the issue of front end separation, was there any mention of the 3P hitch? I am late coming into this discussion and don't have an FB model but, just curious.

[pteck]

Originally Posted by rodsterinfl

On the issue of front end separation, was there any mention of the 3P hitch? I am late coming into this discussion and don't have an FB model but, just curious.

Any WD hitch setup wrong has the potential to cause this.

Applying too much WD tension, possibly in combination with a heavy truck, and using too stiff of WD bars, can contribute to this problem.

50% FALR is generally the rule. Going above that, to compensate for some other setup weakness, is often how the problem starts.

[nedmoto]

Originally Posted by MIFC

The Airsafe hitch to me seems like a symptom treatment and not a fix though I know others swear by it. I’m also considering the SuLastic shackles on the rear leaf springs to soften up the ride some more.

I had an AirSafe hitch on a F150 towing a 25" FB for a year and had numerous popped rivet's along with a harsher ride using the Equalizer 1000Lb bars. I believe part of the problem was the length of the hitch (ball to hitch) created more tension. I sold the AirSafe bought an F250 and installed suspension airbags and now in two years no popped rivets and still using the 1000LB bars.

[gypsydad]

Popped rivets can also happen due to running max 80psi...just saying our experience. Lowered to 58-60psi and no more issues. We really like Blue Ox...

[FMSports]

I have an equalizer with the 1000lb rated bars- came with the trailer.

Should I run with less WD or with yesterday's cranked up settings?
Did measurements and I was at:
_______ Front____Rear
Unladen 32.5___40.25 (no trailer)
WD hitch 33.0___ 38 (Trailer with WD)
No WD 33.5 37 3/8 (trailer hitched)

Thanks

[fran&frank]

Originally Posted by Hermes

Since that initial post, I thought it might be useful to give an update on the FES and hitch situation.

So far all is fine. The "round bar and chain" (1000 lbs) hitch model (Eaz-Lift) that was installed to replace the Equalizer works just fine and the front end of our trailer is still rock solid after 20000 miles of driving in all types of road conditions. It's not a scientific experiment but in our case, it solved the problem with all other factors remaining the same.

I am considering that same hitch to replace my Equalizer, are you using a friction sway control devise with it or just the Eaz-Lift with chains? --Frank

[Hermes]

Originally Posted by fran&frank

I am considering that same hitch to replace my Equalizer, are you using a friction sway control devise with it or just the Eaz-Lift with chains? --Frank

Yes I have a friction control "bar" device (Husky), in fact they installed 2, but the second was more of a extra security than an necessity. I never experienced any tendency to sway even on highways with semi trailers zooming by, high winds, etc.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by FMSports

I have an equalizer with the 1000lb rated bars- came with the trailer.

Should I run with less WD or with yesterday's cranked up settings?
Did measurements and I was at:
_______ Front____Rear
Unladen 32.5___40.25 (no trailer)
WD hitch 33.0___ 38 (Trailer with WD)
No WD 33.5 37 3/8 (trailer hitched)

Thanks

Hi

Knowing "which trailer" would help a lot in answering questions like this....

Bob