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Old 03-11-2020, 05:37 PM   #161
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Thanks Atomic_13. It's a big trailer with more room than my old Trade Wind.

I did get the door frames made and trial fitted the doors to them. The doors are somewhat wrapped like other parts of the trailer so they don't close flush. Cort refurbished the doors and they are waiting non-mortise or flush mounted hinges. These hinges will be much better than what Airstream originally fitted.

Cort also refurbished the reading lights over the pillow sides of the beds. But we want to install the bed frames before we install these lights. The sleeping surfaces will be maybe 6" higher than original due to a 4" riser under the frames and a thicker mattress. Don't want to bang a head on the reading light. There is enough head banging in an Airstream already.

David
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Old 03-16-2020, 06:16 PM   #162
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Cort refurbished the bed frames. The front of the frame is really quite stout and the tambour doors worked well. But everything else was junk. We did find loose rivets between the lower bed frame extrusion and that flimsy U channel that the bed frame rests on. Airstream attached the bed frame to the floor with two angled screws. Not very stout.

The skimpy aluminum angle Airstream used to hold the mattress support slats along the wall was lightweight, and that's it. It was bent badly. So we replaced it with a 1 1/2 by 1/8" thick angle aluminum. Much better to support a sleeping human plus teddy bear and maybe the dog.

We added a 5th slat to the bed frame. I think Airstream used just 4, two of which have hinges on them, so you could lift the mattress and have easy access to that thin aluminum tray underneath. The two remaining slats were positioned under a sleeping person's head and feet. This is the lightest parts of the body. So we put the slats on 12" centers starting from the prop up channel and let the plywood support head and feet. Now we have no plywood flex when sitting on the bed frame.

We also made new plywood mattress support out of 1/4" plywood. The stuff Airstream used was about 3/16 thick. We're stronger and heavier.

As mentioned we lifted the bed frames 3 1/2" to allow the heat ducts to be routed underneath the bed. It also creates a more normal height sleeping surface with a 6" mattress. I think a good height is around 30". Airstream built it to 24". Too low in my view.

Now we will make the bedroom to galley bulkhead walls. Airstream made these 3/4" thick by sandwiching two flimsy pieces of plywood with some boards in between. It is a hollow wall, again lightweight but not very stout.

David
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Old 03-16-2020, 09:44 PM   #163
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Wow! Itís really coming along. Iíve been routinely amazed by the minimalistic approach of airstreamís cabinetry. If Iím honest, itís lasted for 40-50 years so that says something. However, we both have leaned towards more substantial designs. Modern trucks can handle the additional weight.
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Old 03-17-2020, 03:53 PM   #164
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Nice job, I am continually impressed by your progress. FWIW, I built the walls between the bedroom and galley out of 3/4Ē birch plywood. I, too, thought the original ďsandwichĒ was wholly inadequate. The original aluminum extrusions were the proper 3/4Ē width. I look forward to your next moves.
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Old 03-18-2020, 07:55 PM   #165
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Hello Airstreamers: Yep, we are adding weight to the trailer. Our strengthened frame can handle it. Our new axles are 3500 pound rated with 12" brake drums. I figure we will add maybe 500 pounds to the curb weight of the trailer. Airstream engineers would be agast.

I finally hung the wardrobe doors. We opted to leave out the pocket door as it takes maybe 2" in width from the closets. We have an accordian door we can use if we want. But what we're doing now is just using the closet doors in the open position as the bathroom door. It creates a nice privacy shield and good access to the wardrobes. It creates a big bathroom area. We'll try it out and if Cort and family don't like it, we can hang an accordion door easily.

Cort made a perfect pattern for the street side galley bulkhead wall. We purchased 3/4" birch veneer plywood for these bulkhead walls. The wood matches the "F" wall mount extrusion which is 3/4" wide. This is a heavy overkill for this wall. Maybe this Sovereign can be a tornado shelter.

After the galley bulkhead walls are installed, we move on to refurbishing the galley cabinets. That will be a huge project. We will remake everything except the aluminum structure itself. Item like countertops, shelving, sidewalls, doors and the like. All new.

David
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Old 03-19-2020, 07:59 AM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Airstream engineers would be agast.
Maybe the engineers who designed our old trailers, but I don't think modern Airstream engineers would bat an eye. - Mark
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Old 03-21-2020, 07:39 PM   #167
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Galley Bulkhead Walls Cut

We finish fitting and cutting the bulkhead walls. We won't attach them yet as we are deciding on possible stains for the birch wood. The original floor layout had an accordion door between the galley and the bedroom. The bulkhead wall was about 31 inches out from the wall. The galley sink countertop is about 30" deep. Maybe a little narrower doorway and a little more separation to the bedroom is desirable, so I cut the wall about 4" more out from the wall. It covers the bed frame this way.

We haven't decided if this is what we want. Gonna think on it some as we start rebuilding the galley sink cabinet. What a mess it is.

David
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Old 03-22-2020, 07:21 PM   #168
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Getting the Galley

Done: Frame, subfloor, floor covering, bathroom, wardrobe closets, bedroom. We're moving forward, literally.

Next up are the two big galley cabinets: curbside sink cabinet and street side fridge cabinet. Quite frankly, we are very disappointed in the way Airstream built these cabinets back in 76. They haven't survived the riggers of Airstream travel very well at all. The three spaces below the shelf under the sink were almost useless. Access to the furnace, water pump, fuse panel and converter was poor.
Overall, they are poorly designed in my opinion. We are going to make them better. Not perfect, but better.

Today we developed our list of wants, and did some preliminary drawings. Here is what we think:

Larger, deeper twin sink
Clearance for 4" round furnace duct work
Adequate furnace return air "window". The original cabinet had none.
Flat countertop, not a drop down stove.
Keep tambour door under sink
Much easier to access the pump for winterizing, fuse panel and converter
Keep the pull out drawer case under the sink
Provide for some toe clearance at the bottom of the cabinet
Provide for an easy to remove front fascia so the furnace can be removed is needed. Existing cabinet did not provide this.

So we will get after it.

David
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Old 03-22-2020, 07:31 PM   #169
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Furnace Question

Does anyone know if a guy can provide the necessary 55 square inches of return air return with a 3" by 70" toe clearance at the bottom of the cabinet. It certainly would allow the furnace to suck air back into its blower. But it does not meet the Suburban instructions that say you must have 55 square inches of open space in front of the furnace, say a 6" high by 10" wide grate.

I don't know how sensitive the furnace is to this requirement.

Thanks for your assessment,

David
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Old 03-22-2020, 11:47 PM   #170
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I use my toe kick for return air and it seems to be fine. My cabinet is quite a narrower than yours, roughly 40 inches in width. The horizontal area from the top of the toe kick to the front face frame is also open. I didn't put a grill over that area. If you toe kick is 3X70 (210 sq in.) I'd think you more than met the 55 sq in.

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The furnace is elevated 2" off the floor to keep heat off the sub-floor. (The floor is covered with floor protector so the tow kick is blocked in photo.)
The opening on the lower left of the cabinet is a door for storage. My ducts to the bedroom and bathroom take up the space. (not installed yet in this photo)

The grill in front of the furnace covers the area behind the cabinet doors, just as a safety precaution, but I suppose it adds a little return air leaking around the doors.

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I would think a 6X10" grate in line with the furnace is more restrictive as it has to flow around the plenum, which is the width of the furnace.
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Old 03-25-2020, 07:17 PM   #171
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Thanks : I would like to agree with you. With our toe clearance at the bottom of the counter, there will be plenty of air available for the furnace fan. I just wasn't sure why Suburban made an explicit point of requiring 55 square inches in front of the furnace. Maybe just to insure folks don't box the furnace tight. The squirrel cage fan is in the back of the furnace with the heat exchanger in the front. We'll make sure there is room around the thing.

David
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Old 03-25-2020, 07:28 PM   #172
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Axle Lift

I bet many of us have struggled with the awkward balance of a Dexter axle. Trying to get the thing under and up into position in a vintage Airstream is challenging with just one person. The tube, then swing arms, then drums create a center of gravity in outer space.

Today I think I figured out a simple lifting aid that will help me position these 180 pound axles in place. We need access to the bolts and nuts when up and before the jack is released.

I used a simple 3"x7" U bolt and a leftover 4x4 pine lumber. I drilled and then attached the U bolt to the pine, and then to the axle tube. The pine piece is a foot long and plenty stout to allow the jack point to balance between tube and axle.

Here are a couple of photos. It is pretty stable, but I won't be getting under the thing. I'll just jack it up between the axle mounting plates and up tight to the frame rail.

Just sharing an idea that you might find helpful.

David
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Old Yesterday, 07:30 PM   #173
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Rear Tank Pan Closure

Kinda doing other things while we apply finish to the galley bulkhead walls and wait out the drying time. I needed to make a waste water tank pan rear closure. We cut the old rusty one off. It was shot big time.

We made a "removable" rear tank closure so it would be easier to get to the Valterra blade valves, and to the tank level sensors without having to remove the tank pan itself.

I bolted an aluminum angle to top side of the "skids" running underneath the bottom of the pan. Then I made three aluminum sheet pieces the encircle the dump valve piping and are resting in the aluminum angle and touch the top of the new rear cross member. These sheets run behind the flashing we added to the rear of the body.

To gain access to the dump valves, we just remove the two bolts on either side of the frame rails and remove the three pieces of aluminum sheeting. Easier access.

Hopefully this will keep heat in and mice out.

David
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