RV News RVBusiness 2021 Top 10 RVs of the Year, plus 56 additional debuts and must-see units → ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-15-2019, 07:42 PM   #61
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Rear End Separation Repaired

Today we drilled bolt holes and then assembled the new 1x2 by 3/16 thick steel rear cross member to the rear frame rails. It will be welded to the frame rails later.

Then we slid in the new plywood replacing the rotted out piece. This plywood patch has been epoxy coated on all sides.

After that, we installed the new aluminum body mount and clamped in place. Then, using the rear cross member bolt holes as a guide, we drilled up from the bottom through the plywood and then the body mount. This was a way to insure all the holes lined up.

We bolted the parts stack together and then admired our work. This old Sovereign now has a strong rear end. It will pass the bounce test for years and years to come. We will not install that infamous sheet aluminum between the bumper and under the plywood.

Next up is the new "c channel" on top of the body plate. Then we will make a new piece of exterior skin that we will seal and rivet to the body plate. It will hang down about an inch below the rear cross member so rainwater will drip into the bumper storage area. From their it will drip harmlessly through a stainless steel expanded metal bottom of the storage compartment.

Onward and upward...

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Frame Body Mount Installed-800x600.jpg
Views:	44
Size:	64.0 KB
ID:	356335   Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Frame Rear End Parts Stack up-800x600.jpg
Views:	51
Size:	54.2 KB
ID:	356336  

__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2019, 08:18 PM   #62
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Ready for Welder

We cut up the steel we bought and "hung" it in place waiting for the mobile welder. Maybe by the end of the week. Our idea is to "stiffen" the frame in the areas where it sagged. As mentioned earlier, we have leveled the frame and subfloor with jack stands. Now will will add structural members and weld it in place. We are also adding additional floor support for that flimsy 1/2" plywood. Lastly we are replacing rusted out outriggers and new body mount bolts.

I think it will be a very effective repair to this frame in the end. No rear end separation and no sag. No more saying to guests the bathroom is that way down the hill. We had maybe 2 1/2" of overall sag from the axle mounting plate to the rear crossmember.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Frame Axle Plate Stiffener-800x600.jpg
Views:	48
Size:	72.8 KB
ID:	356553   Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Frame Floor Supports-800x600.jpg
Views:	50
Size:	73.7 KB
ID:	356554  

__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2019, 06:10 AM   #63
4 Rivet Member
 
steinVT's Avatar
 
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 349
David, Looks like you guys are doing a great job of stiffening the frame.

A couple of questions:
  • What is the size of the original frame rails? Were they the 5" C-channel?
  • What size, thickness and profile of the stiffening piece you are adding under the frame? Looks like 3/16" thick 2" angle iron.
  • How much in front of the axles did you run the stiffener and how far behind? From the pictures looks like to the second to last cross member, can't tell in the front.
  • How are you planning to deal with the belly pan with the added angle iron?
I just picked up a 28' Ambassador that I may have to do a similar repair. Thanks for posting, this is helping to get my thought process going. - Mark
__________________
Our Restoration Blogs: 1956 Safari and 1962 Ambassador
steinVT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2019, 07:48 PM   #64
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Hello steinVT: I wonder what year your new Ambassador 28' is? I nearly bought a 79 Ambassador 29'. I really liked the gaucho on the street side and a recliner on the curb side with a table infront othe window. However, it had some big problems so I passed on it.

I will try to answer your questions (in blue). Remember, stuff on the internet isn't always the most reliable.

What is the size of the original frame rails? Were they the 5" C-channel?

Yes, the frame rails are 5" channel about a 1.5" flange on both sides and are about .150 thick. My Overlander frame rails are the same.

What size, thickness and profile of the stiffening piece you are adding under the frame? Looks like 3/16" thick 2" angle iron.

We are stiffening the axle plate below the frame rails. We are adding 1/4" thick 2x3 angle iron. The 3" leg is vertical. It will be welded along the bottom frame rail flange and along the very bottom of the axle plate. The new axles will sit on this new angle iron. We made a notch to fit the axle mounting bracket. The new angle iron will add a lot of strength to the axle plate.

How much in front of the axles did you run the stiffener and how far behind? From the pictures looks like to the second to last crossmember, can't tell in the front.

We are adding the heavy angle iron along the axle plate only. We are adding about .150 thick 1 1/2" angle irons along the top of the frame rail flange. This will be about 48" in front of the axle plate, and about 72" behind the axle plate. We will weld it along the bottom edge of the angle iron to the frame rail. We will bolt the top of the new angle iron to the top flange of the frame rail through the subfloor using 3/8" elevator bolts. We can't weld up there due to fire risk. This will help the frame rail resist bending downward.


How are you planning to deal with the belly pan with the added angle iron?

We will just flex the belly pan down a bit and attach it to the new heavy angle iron. I don't know the attachment method yet. Drilling a rivet hole through about 3/8" thick steel isn't real appealing to me just to hold the belly pan up. How about double stick tape? (Just kidding!)

As mentioned, leveling the frame and attaching the rear body to the new rear crossmember certainly will strengthen the frame rails to their original design. But our frame has some cracks and buckling from all the flopping around back there so we needed to reinforce it a bit.

Hope this gives you some insight. Sure, a body off frame repair would be a better deal, but we don't have the capability and I think we will be just fine with this repair.

David
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 06:22 AM   #65
4 Rivet Member
 
steinVT's Avatar
 
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 349
Frame Reinforcments

Hi David, thanks for the detailed response. My new (old) Ambassador is a '62. Towed it 250 miles home with no drama. Seemed to tow smoother than the Safari even with the rock hard torsion axles. It did manage dump every drawer on to the floor. It has what looks to be a 4" C-channel for the frame of some heavier gauge then what was on the Safari. I won't know what it needs until the snow melts in the spring.

I think I understand what you guys are doing and agree that you are making it much more stiff. Just to be sure, is this what you are adding along 10 feet of the frame rails? (Blue is original, green added and red welds).
Click image for larger version

Name:	frameReinforcement.JPG
Views:	35
Size:	16.3 KB
ID:	356595

And next to the axle plate? (Orange is the original axle plate and purple the heavy added angle iron)
Click image for larger version

Name:	frameReinforcement2.JPG
Views:	37
Size:	14.7 KB
ID:	356596

This really helps me understand what I might be getting into. As always you guys do great work and I dream of having a shop like yours (or having a neighbor like you ) - Mark
__________________
Our Restoration Blogs: 1956 Safari and 1962 Ambassador
steinVT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 11:48 AM   #66
1 Rivet Member
 
1966 24' Tradewind
1976 31' Excella 500
Frankfort , KENTUCKY
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 10
Where is the best place to buy replacement out-riggers?
AlmnmSloop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 07:50 PM   #67
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
We got ours from Out of Doors Mart in North Carolina. Their webpage does a good job of showing you the left and right, the fore and aft wheel well outriggers, and the step box outriggers.

We also scored three outriggers from a fellow Forums member who made his own. I must say they are stronger.

Step box outriggers are backordered everywhere I checked. So we are waiting on one of those.

David
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 07:59 PM   #68
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
steinVT: Very nice diagram of the angle irons we are adding to our Sovereign frame. Your diagrams are accurate. The last one shows the heavy angle iron hanging below the axle plate. Our axle plate is long enough on that 3" angle iron leg that we will be welding on the inside of the axle plate, not the outside.

Tomorrow is welding day. We shall see if we can burn down, or is it burn up, the Sovereign.

David
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2019, 09:24 AM   #69
Silver Star
 
rucos's Avatar
 
1970 23' Safari
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 317
David... I enjoy following along and steinVT thanks for the drawings ...I was just thinking that I wish there was a drawing to make it clearer to me and "poof" you did one !!!
Great job guys.
rucos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2019, 08:50 PM   #70
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Frame Is Fixed

Our neighborhood welder was in the shop all day having molten steel splatter on him. We had identified about 10 areas of the frame that needed repair. They all have been welded up. This 76 Sovereign is no longer a separated, saggy mess. It is now solid as a, well piece of steel.

It is interesting to see how much damage rear end separation and rock hard axles put on an Airstream. We had some buckling, cracks and bends. We had many popped rivets in the interior. Gee, almost everything was loose and coming apart. And the rear crossmember and outrigger rust was something else. There was certainly water in the belly pan for long periods of time.

I'm happy with the way it turned out. We still have the forward step box outrigger to weld on when and if it ever arrives.

We now have a solid frame to build a renovated Sovereign that can be enjoyed for many years to come. A second life so to speak.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1411 Frame Welding-800x600.jpg
Views:	45
Size:	51.6 KB
ID:	356686   Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Frame Outrigger Welded-800x600.jpg
Views:	47
Size:	65.0 KB
ID:	356687  

__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2019, 10:11 AM   #71
Rivet Master
 
Alumaholic's Avatar

 
2019 27' Flying Cloud
Albuquerque , New Mexico
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,915
Images: 36
Cannot tell you how much I have enjoyed this project, albeit vicariously.
Wat to go, DBJ!
__________________
Ken L
2019 Flying Cloud 27FB
2020 GMC Sierra 1500 Crew Cab 6.2L Max Tow
Four Corners Unit WBCCI #5783
Alumaholic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2019, 08:20 PM   #72
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Thanks Alumaholic, I'm glad you are following along. You're an Airstream expert. Make sure we are doing roughly the right thing.

Today we enjoyed a "pre-Thanksgiving" since the son and family are going to the mountains skiing over next holiday weekend. Grandkids are so much fun. A snow storm is moving in which will help the skiing.

I did spend a couple hours in the shop this late afternoon attaching the "body channel" (some call C channel) to the 8 new outriggers we welded on last Friday. I used a "blind bolt" as we did not take off the lower interior skins, so I didn't have access to the top of the body channel. The blind bolts drew down nice and tight.

We are also preparing the interior walls for painting. Lots of cleaning needed.

We will rearrange the "mechanical closet" behind the stove. Why the fuse panel, converter, and water pump were mounted there is not clear to me. It does create storage space below the stove. Airstream designers use every cubic inch of interior space. We plan on moving those items below the stove for easier maintenance. The converter in my 75 Overlander was mounted behind the bathtub. Such fun to service. I moved it for easier access.

We are considering using a 1/4" plywood underlayment on top of the 1/2" old plywood subfloor. We believe this would give us a much better surface for the new floor covering. And it would stiffen the subfloor some, but add more weight than strength since we would not be under the body channel. We are just condering it at this time.

David
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2019, 06:24 AM   #73
4 Rivet Member
 
steinVT's Avatar
 
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
We are considering using a 1/4" plywood underlayment on top of the 1/2" old plywood subfloor. We believe this would give us a much better surface for the new floor covering. And it would stiffen the subfloor some, but add more weight than strength since we would not be under the body channel. We are just condering it at this time.
I added the underlayment on top of the 3/4", mainly to provide a smooth transition over the seams. Since I was using sheet Marmoleum, I was afraid it would telegraph everything underneath.

I wouldn't downplay the strength it would add. It would be a 50% increase in cross section. Especially if you added some construction adhesive along with the staples. You are correct, it would be slightly less because it wasn't under the C-channel, but it would be minimal since that would be the end of the "beam". - Mark
__________________
Our Restoration Blogs: 1956 Safari and 1962 Ambassador
steinVT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2019, 09:34 AM   #74
4 Rivet Member
 
wcronin4's Avatar

 
1978 31' Sovereign
New Smyrna Beach , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 377
David

On the use of another sheet of half in plywood. My only question would be how would that effect the fitment of all the interior parts that sit on top of it.

I only ask because I have been considering that same thing, along the lines as SteinVT to offer a smooth substrate for vinyl flooring. But I havenít figured out how to address the issue above.

I note your statement of how much you enjoy working on an AS. We are coming up on a year since we bought Faith, and I am loving the project.

Bill
wcronin4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2019, 08:19 PM   #75
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Thank you for your comments gentlemen: We will likely lay down a 1/4" smooth sanded plywood underlayment. The floor in our Sovereign is far from flat. There are sags and ridges from years of use. We will try to flatten the old half inch subfloor by sanding the high spots. Won't get it perfect, but can get it better. The seams of the underlayment will not match the seams of the original subfloor.

We'll see how that project goes. Any recommendations on a good underlayment adhesive? I don't want contact cement of course, but I want something I can roll on the subfloor and allows some positioning. Then I can fasten it down before it drys.

Speaking of fastening... I was thinking 3/4" long flat head screws. Others have mentioned staples. What is your recommendation.

I'm not too concerned about the height differences when re-installing the bulkhead walls and cabinetry. We have to overall all the cabinets. We will make new bulkhead walls. We can adjust the bath pocket door to fit. Maybe I'm overlooking something.

David

PS: We had a doozy of a snowstorm last night and today. Maybe 2' of classic Colorado powder snow, deep and light. I have made my 75 Overlander into an official snow depth gauge. There is a chance it will get buried this winter.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Snow Depth Gauge.jpg
Views:	25
Size:	55.8 KB
ID:	356885  
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2019, 08:31 PM   #76
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Rear End Rain Water Flashing

We have made a new rear crossmember, repaired the 1/2" rotted plywood subfloor, and made a new aluminum rear body mount. We felt it was time to attach all this to the rear body.

We will NOT install that gap covering aluminum sheet that sits on the frame rails and funnels water into the end of the rear subfloor. We want rain water to flow off the body and down to the ground.

So I made a 4" wide piece of 2024T3 aluminum strip, cut out clearance for the frame rails, tucked it up behind the cargo door frame. It hangs about an inch below the rear crossmember. I caulked all the seams from the cargo door frame, body mount, subfloor, and rear cross member. Then a assembled the aluminum strip and riveted it tight with two rows of rivets. Most of this will be covered by the rub rail body molding when we reinstall that eventually.

I believe it will significantly help keep rain water from damaging this critical area of the trailer.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Frame Rear Water Flashing 1.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	67.9 KB
ID:	356884  
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2019, 09:22 PM   #77
2 Rivet Member
 
coloradoup's Avatar
 
1966 24' Tradewind
Olathe , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 43
Nice looking shell

David,
I would think you can use that pre mixed stuff they sell in the flooring department in most of your home improvement stores. You just trowel it on with the small V groove trowel and it should give you some time to work.
Enjoying your hard work.
Mike.
coloradoup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2019, 01:32 PM   #78
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Thanks Mike: I thought about that. I guess they call it underlayment adhesive. But it seems I would want a more viscous adhesive (brush on) that would insure good contact with the original subfloor. Right now I'm planning on using staples and a pneumatic driver. Although quick and easy, I don't perceive staples provide as much clamp force as a screw might. I may even have to roll it after laying it to get a good bond like we do counter tops.

You may know I had a 66 Trade Wind. I had a great time fixing it up some. It was my first vintage trailer project. As you know, the mid sixties Airstreams had unique Corning curved glass frameless windows. They looked cool, but if you break one, it is quite a project getting it replaced. Nonetheless, I think the mid sixties vintage Airstreams are very cool.

Did I just highjack my own thread? I don't care, I like vintage Trade Winds.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1708 Sale Curb Shade-800x600.JPG
Views:	33
Size:	139.9 KB
ID:	356903  
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2019, 10:23 PM   #79
2 Rivet Member
 
coloradoup's Avatar
 
1966 24' Tradewind
Olathe , Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 43
David I did see that 66 of yours. It's very nice and I am surprised you were able to let that go. I guess it didn't go very far. I actually bought that 78 for the windows to change mine out in my trade wind. I live next door to Atomic 13 and got the idea from his. I like the way they open and the way they look. They seem far less likely to fall out down the road. All your trailers look very nice. I have enjoyed following along.
Mike.
coloradoup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2019, 07:26 PM   #80
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Repairing Plastic End Cap Cracks

The ABS plastic end caps were not as robust as the 60s fiberglass ones. Our Sovereign has several cracks in both front and rear end caps. We plan on painting the dingy interior to brighten things up, including the end caps.

My friend figured plastic flexible automotive bumper repair filler might work. He drilled a few 1/8" holes on either side of the crack for the material to flow into to improve bonding. He mixed the stuff up, smoothed it over the crack and let it dry. Then he sanded is smooth.

It worked! The repaired plastic seems flexible, and the crack has not opened up. He also fixed a couple of cracks on the ABS fridge exhaust vent. That looks quite good too.

We offer this process as something you might want to consider if you have cracked plastic end caps like most Airstreams of this vintage. Some of you may have better ways to repair ABS cracks in the end caps.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Plastic Crack Repair Material-800x600.jpg
Views:	30
Size:	76.9 KB
ID:	357087   Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Plastic End Cap Crack Repaired-800x600.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	41.3 KB
ID:	357088  

__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
sovereign


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Digging in as a new owner of 1978 AS Sovereign renovation project epsasser Member Introductions 6 10-09-2017 09:16 AM
Wanted Vintage Trailer, center bath, 28 ft+ for renovation project britta315 Airstream Classifieds 0 05-04-2017 03:34 PM
My First Renovation Project: a Simple Shower Head clicknathan Sinks, Showers & Toilets 2 01-14-2013 08:18 AM
Any red flags on buying a renovation project? hankyknot General Repair Forum 23 05-17-2011 08:49 PM
Renovation Project: where to begin? spz Upholstery, Blinds, Walls & Interior Finishes 7 02-28-2010 05:39 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:48 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.