RV News RVBusiness 2021 Top 10 RVs of the Year, plus 56 additional debuts and must-see units → ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-01-2019, 07:11 PM   #41
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Bath Floor Rot Out

I made a command decision and cut out the bath rear floor rot. We need to replace this rotted floor with something that has the strength to connect between frame and body.

The rear most floor rot was caused by leaks into the end cut of the plywood. There is also several penetrations of this section of floor for the dump valves, shower trap, gray tank drains and vents, low point drains, shore power cord, and 120v ground wire. There ain't much 1/2" plywood left. We will try to eliminate as many of the penetrations as we can.

Interesting find. This 45 degree ABS 1 1/2" elbow was leaking galley sink water on its way to the grey tank. The leak is hidden under and behind the tub. The leak was caused by a defect molding runner used to fill the mold with molten plastic 43 years ago. It might have been good when it left the factory, but it opened up later. Anyway, it caused a big hole in the subfloor.

We plan on using white oak to make the repairs to this important area of the trailer.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Bath Floor Rot Removed-800x600.jpg
Views:	57
Size:	67.6 KB
ID:	355406   Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Bath Floor Rot Under Tub-800x600.jpg
Views:	53
Size:	60.8 KB
ID:	355407  

Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Bath Floor Rot-800x600.jpg
Views:	51
Size:	50.5 KB
ID:	355408   Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Bath Leaky Elbow-800x600.jpg
Views:	43
Size:	60.7 KB
ID:	355409  

__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2019, 08:35 PM   #42
Rivet Master
 
Alumaholic's Avatar

 
2019 27' Flying Cloud
Albuquerque , New Mexico
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,915
Images: 36
David and Cort, I really really enjoyed today's installment. Thanks for sharing!
Ken L
__________________
Ken L
2019 Flying Cloud 27FB
2020 GMC Sierra 1500 Crew Cab 6.2L Max Tow
Four Corners Unit WBCCI #5783
Alumaholic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2019, 07:54 PM   #43
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
On the Level

Thanks Alumaholic: There's nothing like a photo of smelly rotted plywood subfloor to get the juices flowing in a vintage Airstream enthusiasts. So exciting.

Today we had some success. We decided we would just try to use the tongue jack and trailer weight to get the frame rails level and parallel to the concrete floor. We leveled the frame rails from the axle plate to the A frame demonstrated by many measurements from floor to frame rail. Then we jacked up the rear of the frame rails until they too were measuring about the same from the floor to frame rail at the rear as the front of the trailer. With the trailer well supported, we checked the interior subfloor from the front of the trailer to the rear bath it is was darn good! No more walking "downhill" to the rear bath. Success!!!

We now can measure and make our new rear cross member, subfloor repair pieces, body plate and repaired c channel at the rear of the trailer. Then we will bolt it tight to the frame rails. We guarantee it will pass the bounce test.

We had a good session with our mobile welder crew and they will weld in the necessary new steel and outriggers and floor supports and rear cross members to maintain our tight and level position. We will weld when we are ready and the outriggers get here.

This old Sovereign will be straight and tight once again. Hooray.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Frame Leveled.jpg
Views:	54
Size:	281.7 KB
ID:	355488  
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2019, 08:55 AM   #44
1 Rivet Member
 
1976 25' Tradewind
clarkson , Nebraska
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 15
Images: 5
I know everyone does things differently, but, we replaced our black water tank with a larger grey water tank. We did away with the black water by using a composting toilet. It has really worked out well and with NO smell. My wife is hard to impress, even she is pleased with it. I looked for information, but did not find much on replacing the fiberglass insulation under the floor. I bought a spray foam kit at Menards and foamed the underside of the floor. Not only does it insulate, but it adds a lot of strength to the floor, and it seals up the plywood underneath. We even did above the water tank, just a lite coating so as to not interfere with putting the tank back in place. You do not smell the old odor, and the foam is put on not overly thick so there is NO foam odor. Our bottom cover to protect the tank was rusting really bad, so I made the new cover plate out of aluminum. (maybe 1/8th inch) The plate that bolts up in place in the middle of the tank we used a thicker piece of aluminum. A couple thousand miles later everything looks great. Good Luck!!
tim c is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2019, 11:02 AM   #45
Silver Star
 
rucos's Avatar
 
1970 23' Safari
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 317
[QUOTE=dbj216;2304160]Thanks Alumaholic: There's nothing like a photo of smelly rotted plywood subfloor to get the juices flowing in a vintage Airstream enthusiasts. So exciting.

Ah yes brings back memories of my reno
rucos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2019, 07:39 PM   #46
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Thanks for your input Tim C. I've read about spray foam insulation. I think Airstream did this for a year or two back in about 1968. Many homes nowadays have it in there somewhere. I use rigid foam board. I won't use fiberglass batting due to the moisture retention of the stuff.

David
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2019, 07:48 PM   #47
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Field Dress an Airstream

We follow the many. We removed a lot of cabinetry out of the Sovereign today. Gut it they say. like hunting deer. Such fun and so easy to do. Some of it we will rebuild (galley cabinets) and some of it we replace with better ideas. It will take ten times longer to rebuild it and put it back. We will get it done.

We also did some measuring and getting ready to make the new parts for the rear end. We hope to get this done this week.

Slow progress is better than no progress.

David
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2019, 01:02 PM   #48
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Galley and Fridge Cabinets Out

We have removed the last of the cabinetry. We also removed the bulkhead walls separating the galley from the bedroom. Maybe due to shot axles, maybe due to rear end separation, we found most parts were very loose. We will get everything solid again as we rebuild this old Sovereign.

Airstream apparently created a new kind of "hollow wood" for their cabinets. It is two pieces of near 1/8" plywood with spacers between them. It appears to be 1/2" wood, but it is not. A lot of work to save some weight seems to me. My Overlander had 1/4" plywood with wood grain laminate, which seemed to be in pretty good shape. Airstream also changed their laminate process as this trailer has a vinyl material glued to the plywood. It has not worn very well through the years. It is coming off in sheets on the bulkhead walls and wardrobe walls. See photo

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Galley Fridge Out-800x600.jpg
Views:	44
Size:	76.3 KB
ID:	355710   Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Wood Wall Laminate-800x600.jpg
Views:	49
Size:	60.8 KB
ID:	355711  

__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2019, 06:30 PM   #49
1 Rivet Member
 
1966 24' Tradewind
1976 31' Excella 500
Frankfort , KENTUCKY
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 10
interior breakdown

Love the pictures and progress! in our own interior tear-down, we've decided to yank everything out except the shower area (the bath will be refinished as well). The difference in interior construction is major between our 66 and 76. The 66 was real wood cabinetry that could be refinished/restored with very good results. the 76 is very light construction, mostly metal and Formica..still good after all these years, but not what we want to put back in. we're planning on taking this 76 disco-machine and making it ultra modern...something swanky that Ralph Lauren would be proud of (wink). Going to build some stuff...what an understatement.... what doesn't get made, will be bought from IKEA. The 76 also has some floor rot in the front and back that will be taken care of this winter. planning on replacing the front wood flooring al the way to the kitchen and the back last sheet in the bedroom (the bath is in the middle). You are blessed to have such an excellent workspace!!! I purchased an inexpensive RV cover from Amazon that's keeping the weather at bay. any tips you can share on replacing the flooring and shoring up the frame?

I'll post some pics of both airstreams soon. (before and after pics)
AlmnmSloop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2019, 08:02 PM   #50
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
AlmumSloop: Stay tuned. We have had consultations with our mobile welder. Our rear half of the frame sags about 2". He made recommendations for the frame repair.

We were able to jack it back level. Just today I hauled home the needed steel. We will make the repair parts this coming week that will be welded in place soon. I also hauled home some marine plywood for the rear most subfloor repair.

We also have replacement outriggers on order.

Follow along and maybe we will give you some ideas and maybe you can help us out.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Bath Floor Rot Removed-800x600.jpg
Views:	57
Size:	67.6 KB
ID:	355776   Click image for larger version

Name:	1910 Frame Rear Parts Stack-800x600.jpg
Views:	42
Size:	60.8 KB
ID:	355777  

__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2019, 06:12 AM   #51
4 Rivet Member
 
steinVT's Avatar
 
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
We were able to jack it back level. Just today I hauled home the needed steel. We will make the repair parts this coming week that will be welded in place soon.
David, You got me thinking, when you make the repair, should the rear be level or should it be even a little high? The thought being that with a little weight, it would sag back to level. On my Safari, I went for level, but its a lot shorter. - Mark
__________________
Our Restoration Blogs: 1956 Safari and 1962 Ambassador
steinVT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2019, 02:00 PM   #52
Rivet Master
 
Alumaholic's Avatar

 
2019 27' Flying Cloud
Albuquerque , New Mexico
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,915
Images: 36
I would recommend dead level.
Afterall, the frame is suspended from the monocot shell.
(This is why we never add tool boxes and generator storage on the rear bumper)
__________________
Ken L
2019 Flying Cloud 27FB
2020 GMC Sierra 1500 Crew Cab 6.2L Max Tow
Four Corners Unit WBCCI #5783
Alumaholic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2019, 08:07 PM   #53
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
New Rear Body Mount

Our welder suggest we have the rear of the frame jacked up a bit before welding. We know it may droop a bit after welding. I might add we will have the rear end separation repaired before welding. The new rear cross member, the new rear subfloor plywood repair, the new rear body mount and the new rear "c channel" will be in place and bolted up tight before we weld. Having these structural members in place will tie the two frame rails back to their supporting structure, the aluminum shell. Then we will weld the "stiffeners" in place to maintain the frame rail shape and position.

I often say I envision the Airstream structure as a cable suspension bridge. We have a support foundation, the axles. We have a roadway, the frame. And we have the cables holding the roadway up, the aluminum shell. If the roadway becomes detached from the cables, it will sag.

I picked up the new rear body mount. Actually, this piece doesn't have much of a job, unlike the front body mount. It is firmly bolted between the rear most frame cross member and the c channel that is the base of the body. But there is only one row of rivets under the rear cargo door from the exterior skin to this rear body mount. It doesn't support much of the body.

Thinking that, we made it out of 1/8" aluminum sheet instead of steel. We made it 48" long so it will be under the two rear formers that the rear window and rear cargo door are riveted to. The original steel one was about 32" long.
I think having this piece made of aluminum instead of steel will help reduce corrosion in the rear of the trailer. And I think connecting it to the rear body formers will add some support for the rear body. Maybe I will make the trailer too rigid and we will get exterior skin cracks propagating all over the place. Hope not.

I measured the angle of the rear body mount at 75 degrees. It looks and fits pretty good.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Frame New Body Mount-800x600.jpg
Views:	33
Size:	57.9 KB
ID:	355840  
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2019, 04:22 PM   #54
4 Rivet Member
 
wcronin4's Avatar

 
1978 31' Sovereign
New Smyrna Beach , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 377
David

I used a combination of steel and aluminum plate to secure the ass-end of Faith's shell. The hold down plate design under the rear compartment door was wanting.

When my frame was made we used boxed steel for the main beams rather than "C" channel. It stiffened up the back significantly. I recognize that I have deviated from the AS design. I hope it will perform as I expect.

It is fund to see you tear into a Sovereign. I wish you had begun I year ago, it would have made my project a little easier looking over your shoulder.
__________________
Bill
Keeping Faith
____________________________________
My Project thread
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f22...ff-191141.html
wcronin4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2019, 08:17 PM   #55
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
I think we are helping each other. Renovating these old trailers is a fun project and one that gets confusing at times. Sharing approaches and techniques really helps.

We took advantage of a warm day and cleaned very dirty parts from the Sovereign. The power washer made the tanks and the backside of the bathroom plastics cleaner for sure. We cleaned the furnace ducts and the fresh water holding pan too.

We filled the grey water tank with water and let it set for an hour. No leaks discovered. We have to close off all the openings and test the tank again as it was leaking somewhere.

We also did some extensive cleaning of interior walls behind the cabinets. They were really, really dirty. A very major parts of renovating an old Airstream is de-rusting and cleaning. That way you can see what needs repaired.

We will now begin making frame repair parts and mounting them in the correct position for our welder.

Every day a little progress.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Tanks Cleaning-800x600.jpg
Views:	37
Size:	78.6 KB
ID:	355894  
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2019, 12:41 AM   #56
Rivet Master
 
57Vintage's Avatar

 
1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 614
Images: 22
I would agree with your welder to support the frame a little above level prior to the frame repairs, but I'm not sure (IMO) that leveling the frame when attaching the shell is a good idea.

If you support the frame (at the rear) to level and attach the shell, when the supports are removed you're placing a pre-load on the frame/shell attachment. Once the frame repairs are done, whatever arch (non-level) is in the frame is its natural state. Expecting the shell to maintain the frame to a level shape just doesn't seem logical to me, especially with the forces exerted when traveling.
__________________
Harold & Rebecca

Our thread:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f97...er-172124.html
57Vintage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2019, 07:43 AM   #57
2 Rivet Member
 
1975 27' Overlander
Newnan , Georgia
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 40
David,



I am going to follow this build even though I have a '75 Overlander because you are giving me some additional pictures and/or angles of things that will help me on my trailer also. Anyone who has worked on anything, an Airstream, a car, anything, you take a bunch of pictures on disassembly thinking you have every possible item and angle you need and you always find some little area you didnt realize you needed a picture of when you were disassembling.


I am no expert on Airstreams, but to answer your question on the outriggers, I see absolutely no reason why the outriggers have to be "sided", other than the special slotted ones for the step and probably the ones front and back of the wheel well. As you pondered earlier, they are for structural support of the shell, and very secondarily, to shape the curve of the lower wraps. Their primary function is supporting the shell and other than at the wheel wells and those step pieces, I dont see why it matters which direction the "flap" points.


I very much like your idea of widening the body mount, and I think the fact that you made it out of aluminum and will "anchor" it to the forming ribs will not be a problem with cracks since you are fixing the source of stress on that area, which is the body separation and weak frame.


I look forward to "stealing" as many ideas from you as possible, so consider yourself warned!!


Brian
Kartwheel68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2019, 07:20 PM   #58
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Hi 57Vintage: I want to assemble all the rear end body mount parts before welding so they will fit up properly, and help hold the frame rails parallel and at the same height. We will leave all supports in place during the welding. You bet there is stress put on the frame rails as we heat them and attach additional stiffeners. I have measured the frame rails to floor in the same 4 places on both sides. The axle mounting area is my "datum". We are within about 3/4" parallel over about a 27 foot span. Not too shabby in my view, considering we were about 2 1/2" sag in the rear before we started. So I will assemble the rear body mount parts, but leave the supports in place until the frame is welded. And actually the whole winter while we work on it both underneath and inside.

Kartwheels68: Steal shamelessly. That is what this Airstream Knowledge Base is all about. One guy's approach may not work for another, or may solve a problem for another. The outriggers are typically extensions of the center cross members. In some cases I will offset about an inch or two for various reasons. Thanks for your review. I see no particular problem doing this. Our body mount will extend a bit and rest on the bottom inside of the rear cargo door frame. This will add support. We will simply then attach the exterior skin below the cargo door to the body mount.

I have a 75 Overlander twin bed too. It is sitting outside this winter. Leak test? I think they are nice sized trailers for extended traveling. My Overlander is all ready to go after the renovation. It ain't spectacular, but it is solid and works good.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1907 Curb-800x600.JPG
Views:	36
Size:	138.5 KB
ID:	356059  
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2019, 07:28 PM   #59
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Starting Re-assembly

I actually made one of dozens of new parts for this Sovereign. I have cut and drilled a new rear cross member. It is exactly the same length as the distance between the axles at 61 1/8". We also needed to straighten the frame rails so they are on center to the tongue jack. My friend noticed they didn't appear well spaced under the body. For some reason they were about 2" bent toward the street side. Weird things happen when the frame isn't attached to the body for a period of time. So we pulled them on center and have drilled bolt holes.

We have also fitted the new aluminum body mount plate. It seems to fit quite well. Now we need to make replacement marine plywood patches and get them sealed and positioned. Not as easy as it sounds.

David
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2019, 07:58 PM   #60
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,460
Images: 1
Look Ma No Holes

We made plywood patches for the holes in the bath floor at the rear where many rot out. This is a time consuming process. Airstream built the 76 and later trailers with 1/2" thick plywood. I guess they thought the stronger frame would compensate. The thinner plywood does make the patches easier to make.

Just to note the frame sag at the rear does make patching the floor easier too. I let the frame rails sag back like they were which opened up a nice gap between frame and body channel. I could slide the plywood in place easier.

I also fitted the new body plate on top of the new plywood. It fits good. The new, bigger body plate slides under the rear vertical formers on each side of the cargo door and rear window. We will attach the formers to the body plate making a stronger rear end attachment in my view.

Then we will put the new c channel on top of the body plate and bolt it all down to the new rear cross member. We will do this after the welding is done.

We will epoxy coat the new plywood and then start cutting and drilling steel for the frame repair parts. We hope to weld the frame next week.

David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Bath Floor Repair Inserted-800x600.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	69.0 KB
ID:	356248   Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Bath Floor Pieces-800x600.jpg
Views:	42
Size:	73.1 KB
ID:	356249  

Click image for larger version

Name:	1911 Frame Body Mount Positioned-800x600.jpg
Views:	64
Size:	64.8 KB
ID:	356250  
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

See my 1966 Trade Wind Renovation Documentation:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers

See our 1976 Sovereign Renovation Project:
Knowledge Base Airstream Trailers
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
sovereign


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Digging in as a new owner of 1978 AS Sovereign renovation project epsasser Member Introductions 6 10-09-2017 09:16 AM
Wanted Vintage Trailer, center bath, 28 ft+ for renovation project britta315 Airstream Classifieds 0 05-04-2017 03:34 PM
My First Renovation Project: a Simple Shower Head clicknathan Sinks, Showers & Toilets 2 01-14-2013 08:18 AM
Any red flags on buying a renovation project? hankyknot General Repair Forum 23 05-17-2011 08:49 PM
Renovation Project: where to begin? spz Upholstery, Blinds, Walls & Interior Finishes 7 02-28-2010 05:39 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.