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Fyrzowt · 01-19-2007, 11:58 PM

Like Canoe Stream, I'm not familiar with the layout of this model. Anyone have a link or photos of the interior/floorplan?
Dave

Amsterdamer · 01-20-2007, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rluhr

I've had the same thought on the 10 disc changer. We've never used it and we never will, since all our music is on the iPod. Airstream switched to iPod-ready amps in 2006, so most of us missed it. If you do this mod, be sure to post what unit you chose and whether there were any issues with the install.

I also have the 10-CD changer, which is connected using an in-line FM modulator. The sound quality is very good. I don’t see any reason a second in-line modulator couldn’t be added for an iPod controller.

The Harman Kardon DP1 would be an easy install and is available (refurbished with new factory warranty) from the Harmon Kardon direct eBay site. I’ve purchased from them before and can’t tell that the items are any different from new.

Link to listing: eBay - Harman Kardon DP 1 iPod, MP3 Accessories, Consumer Electronics items on eBay.com

Amsterdamer · 01-20-2007, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fyrzowt

Like Canoe Stream, I'm not familiar with the layout of this model. Anyone have a link or photos of the interior/floorplan?
Dave

Airstream still has the 2006 floorplan on their web site. The chairs and table can be changed to a sofa.

rluhr · 01-20-2007, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Does your front hatch door stick when it is jacked on level ground?

Mine did but we just fixed that. It was unrelated to the cracking issue, I believe. Basically we just tapped the high spots down with a hammer and a block of wood.

We also fixed the leaking compartment door. The gasket is easily removed and rides on a metal flange. Bending that flange in or out is the way to get the gasket to fit evenly around the door (an easy fix) so that it neither gaps or makes the door difficult to shut.

Amsterdamer · 01-20-2007, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Gillis

One preventive action I am planning is removal of the open/close knob for curb side window near the door (I will keep it in a cabinet for adult use only). It seems that a child could open the window wide, and the door could hit it, resulting in a broken window and/or a dent in the door.

I just cut a piece of swimming noodle (the kind with a hole in the middle) to slide over the lower edge of the window when it’s open. Just cut to length, then cut the inside edge to the core. Pipe insulation would work too, but it’s not as thick.

Now the door will rest on the soft foam when it is open all the way, thus avoiding scratches. If the door hit it hard enough, the window might still break, but I think it will be worth the hassle.

Fyrzowt · 01-20-2007, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amsterdamer

Airstream still has the 2006 floorplan on their web site. The chairs and table can be changed to a sofa.

Thanks, I guess I could have checked the A/S site.

Amsterdamer · 01-21-2007, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rluhr

We also fixed the leaking compartment door. The gasket is easily removed and rides on a metal flange. Bending that flange in or out is the way to get the gasket to fit evenly around the door (an easy fix) so that it neither gaps or makes the door difficult to shut.

Thanks for the heads up on this issue.

No evidence of water yet, but upon further inspection, I've adjusted the closures to hold the door more firmly on one side and a little looser on the other. I noticed that there was a bit of play on one side when it was latched. This could have led to leakage when driving in the rain, since the door wasn't tight on the gasket.

I also just ordered a set of Enkay Rock Tamers (AS Forum members recommended, thanks again!) to cut down on spray and debris hitting the AS.

Minnie's Mate · 01-23-2007, 11:44 AM

Rich, in all of your travels, have you found that the length has been an issue at any of the camp grounds you either stayed in or wanted to stay in?

rluhr · 01-23-2007, 11:58 AM

I would have to say that the trailer's length has rarely been a real issue. It has many times been a "perceived" issue, in that we've had to work a bit to fit into certain spots, and there have been times when we've been temporarily stuck in a tight spot -- but we've always gotten out without damage.

I think the perception that you might get stuck is what really scares most people. I know it scares me from time to time! We had a tricky incident a couple of months ago in a driveway in CT where we easily got in but couldn't get back out. I had to stop and remind myself that there would always be a way to get out, it just might be time-consuming. We ended up having to knock over part of a stone wall, but we got out...

When caught in a super-tough spot, I also take solace in the fact that we can always unhitch, move the truck to a more desirable angle, and re-hitch. This maneuver basically gives you the flexibility of a forklift. Never had to do it yet, but we came close in CT, and another time at a car wash (I won't go in car washes anymore).

I think in 15 months full-timing we've encountered four or five campgrounds that prohibited trailers over 25 or 28 feet, and about the same number of roads. Only once have we had to skip a campground we wanted to visit because of our length.

We routinely get into campsites that are for shorter trailers. One easy trick is to back up the wheels right to the curb and let the rear end hang over into the sites. Often we'll park the truck sideways in front of the trailer, as we did in Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park in northern CA.

Overall, the real problem with a long trailer is that you have to be much more careful about gas stations and parking lots. Those are considerably more risky than campgrounds, in my opinion. I always look ahead to evaluate the situation before I enter, and if there's any doubt, I don't go in.

mistral blue · 01-23-2007, 12:48 PM

I'll be maxing out the chain saw and moving the offending rocks this spring Rich. Tell your bunkhouse buddies they're all welcome to courtesy park with us anytime and that we'll get em out and on the road without a hitch! (Uh, I mean without a problem.)

Minnie's Mate · 01-23-2007, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rluhr

It has many times been a "perceived" issue, in that we've had to work a bit to fit into certain spots, and there have been times when we've been temporarily stuck in a tight spot -- but we've always gotten out without damage.

I can certainly relate to that one. On our third camping trip we were at our favorite place in the World...Disney's Fort Wilderness and the road was narrow and curved to the left and our camp site was on the right side of the road. The two sites across from us had long 5th wheel trailers and their trucks were out to the edge of the road. It took several attempts but I made it with only one of the "neighbors" offering to move their TV. For the other I had to lower my driver's side window and fold my mirror in so it wouldn't drag across the hood of the other guy's truck hood when I eased by! But I made it. Probably wasn't the prettiest backing job, but by the time I was backed into the site, I had an audience. I had just as much difficulty getting out of the site as getting in! I guess they didn't have as many 30 footers in 1971 when Ft. Wilderness was laid out as they do now. BTW, my first two camping trips I had pull-throughs so this was my first attempt at backing into a camp site!

Quote:

Originally Posted by rluhr

Overall, the real problem with a long trailer is that you have to be much more careful about gas stations and parking lots. Those are considerably more risky than campgrounds, in my opinion. I always look ahead to evaluate the situation before I enter, and if there's any doubt, I don't go in.

I have had some interesting experiences at these too. Once I had to back away from the pumps because the angle of the trailer was such that I would have hit the bollard with the trailer if I had pulled forward. Another I had placed the safety chains on the outside of the spring-bars (I guess to keep them from dragging the road??!) and while maneuvering out of the station I must have snapped them because they were in tact at the pumps but were both broken and dragging the ground when we reached our destination.

Isn't camping fun!

Rick Gillis · 01-24-2007, 05:44 PM

As I said on an earlier post, our family was on a three week, 5,000 mile trip when we decided we had to have a larger AS for our family. My wife and I determined that only one campground during our trip (Rising Sun in Glacier National Park) would have been too small for a thirty foot unit (technically our 25 AS was too large by the posted maximum length, but she fit with a bit of maneuvering).

With only a few hundred miles under my belt with the new BH, I can relate to the perceived length. The first time I slipped the trailer into my storage space I must have jumped out three times to be sure the rear end was not near the motor home parked next to my unit on my blind side. It wasn’t any closer than my 25 footer was when I pulled into the space. Once into the spot, it appears that the 30 foot unit has about 2 feet more length from the rear wheels than the 25.

Like Rich said, most campgrounds are not the problem, but rather parking lots and gas stations. One must always look for an acceptable exit before making a commitment by turning in. I have got caught twice without an escape route, making for a difficult and long reverse trip out.

Build date: July 2004 and titled as a 2005 model. Purchase date September 2006. It sat on the dealers lot for a long time before someone decided to purchase….

Rick

Minnie's Mate · 01-25-2007, 03:02 PM

These photos are unique to the 30' model, but I thought I'd share them anyway.

The first photo is a solution my wife came up with. Originally we used a little plate storage unit that held the plates horizontally. The plates are melamime so they are shatter proof. The bowls and cups are Corell. However, every time we opened the flipper door when we arrived at our destination invariably the plates had shifted and would fall out in our face. (Think RV with the daughter). While at Lowe's one day my wife started looking at their wire storage solutions and bought two pot-lid holders. I secured them to the back rail of the overhead storage bin with the screws that came with it and the plates are securely held in place.

The second photo is a coat rack I secured to the inside of the bathroom door with molly screws. We selected it because it had the curved shape of the overhead storage doors and the brushed aluminum hooks fold up flush and match the aluminum look and the wood came as close to matching the wood finish in the Airstream as we could find. We hang our towels on the hooks to dry.

The third photo is our TV setup. Our coach didn't have the AV package. I'm glad it didn't. If I had ordered it, I would have ordered it with the audio only package with an exterior speaker. However, after some of the problems I have heard with the external speaker, I might not have got that either. Anyway, I'm not too happy with the wire situation and will be looking for options for storing them or at least making them less visually cluttering. We have the single disk Sony stereo. Does anybody know if there are external aux ports on that stereo that the TV and combo VCR/DVD player can be routed into to play the audio through the existing four ceiling stereo speakers?

Amsterdamer · 01-25-2007, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate

Does anybody know if there are external aux ports on that stereo that the TV and combo VCR/DVD player can be routed into to play the audio through the existing four ceiling stereo speakers?

Our factory installation came with an in-line FM modulator for the CD changer. You would tune your existing head unit (existing car type stereo) to an unused radio station that is set on the FM modulator. Your VCR/DVD player plugs into the modulator and the modulator is inserted between the antenna lead and your head unit.

Here is a link to one that should work:Amazon.com: Univ Fm Modulator: Electronics

I like the coat/towel rack in your bathroom. Where did you get it?

R&SZinser · 01-25-2007, 07:06 PM

Hi all! We want to put XM Radio in our trailer and fix the speakers so the IN/OUT/BOTH switch works. Also, want to be able to watch a movie and have the sound come through just the TV speakers instead of the surround sound speakers. So, this past weekend we pulled the CD changer, radio and the console out. And by we, I mean mostly Roy!

First, we found the source of the saw dust that would magically appear on the dinnette seat every time we moved the trailer. The picture does not do justice to the true amount of sawdust caked between the two pieces of cabinetry. We discovered the sub-woofer under the bench of the dinnette. We don't think it was plugged in correctly and probably isn't contributing to overall good sound quality being stuffed inside a closed bench without any venting. Still working on straightening out the speaker wire. For some reason, the rear speakers play all the time. Also, we ran the wire for the sat. radio antenna up through the FanTastic fan. Ran out of time last weekend so will pick it up again on Saturday, hopefully. Oh, and Roy fixed the furnace! One of the spade connectors was loose.

Amsterdamer · 01-25-2007, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R&SZinser

For some reason, the rear speakers play all the time.

Our subwoofer was not connected correctly either. The RCA plugs were connected to the "out" instead of the "in". Once connected correctly, it worked fine. I was thinking about putting a port in the cabinet to let it breathe better. Our In/Out/Both switch does the same thing (back always on). Please let us know if you figure out how to make it work properly. I’d consider adding and outside set of speakers, but haven’t heard any success stories, yet.

It looks like everyone has the same issues with the A/V system. Quality control?

I was also thinking that I could use wireless speakers by splitting the RCA outputs that go the subwoofer to the wireless transmitter. I have some Acoustic Research wireless speakers that should work.

rluhr · 01-25-2007, 08:59 PM

Our A/V system worked fine except for the subwoofer. It rumbled annoyingly between menus on DVDs and between songs on CDs. I kept turning it down, and finally just chucked it. It was a cheap subwoofer and we never felt the need for it anyway. The space it occupied is now extra storage. See this post for details.

Our subwoofer cabinet is vented with a big opening, identical to the cold air return for the furnace. Interesting to hear others weren't.

Roy: Bravo!

MM: cool storage solutions!

SafariSS · 01-25-2007, 09:08 PM

Speaking of AV systems, I have the exterior speaker switch on my Safari 30. I was wondering if anyone knows what the arrangement for the speakers is on the "trailer" style speaker plug. My plug in is behind the curbside wheels, and it is just a trailer flat 4 connector.

Which is the LH, RH, Positive and Negative?? I have scoured my manual and my dealer sez never looked into it.

Also discussing the wiring of the television, I enjoy watching movies thru the surround sound ceiling speakers, I wish there was a way to watch regular TV with the sound at the TV as well as the ceiling. I tried discussing the AV system with my dealer on the phone and he said they are all different, especially because A/S uses different Head units and AV equipment.

I guess all and all I would not have ordered my unit with the package, but at the price I paid for the rig new I cannot complain for what it does.

Minnie's Mate · 01-26-2007, 07:46 AM

I think I'll pull my head unit this weekend and see if it has the aux. inputs and if it does, I'll run the audio outputs to it and see what happens.

If it doesn't I'll stop by Radio Shack and see if they have an FM modulator I can quickly install as you recommend Amsterdamer. If I can't find one locally I'll order the one from amazon.com. Our next camping trip is in February so I have three weeks to make a change if I can. I would be nice to have the sound coming out of the surround sound speakers so we don't have to sit there with the remote and adjust the volume every time the A/C or heat pump comes on and drowns out the TV.

Thanks for the suggestions.

rluhr · 01-26-2007, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate

I would be nice to have the sound coming out of the surround sound speakers so we don't have to sit there with the remote and adjust the volume every time the A/C or heat pump comes on and drowns out the TV.

Actually, we still have to do that even with the four ceiling speakers, when we are watching a DVD. I think part of the reason is that the rear speakers are mounted above the kitchen, too far back to be heard well by people sitting in the dinette.