Jack's '67 Safari 22'

[Jack McAllis]

Originally Posted by BIGED52

Jack, The assembly you have pictured is a replacement L-100 model. It is the same one I bought from InlandRv to replace my original lockset that had broken after I bought my trailer. The original had a lever handle and locking button on the interior of the door. The one you have locks by pushing in and turning the inside knob handle. What is broken on it? I see from the pictures that it looks complete. Is the casting cracked or broken somewhere? Ed

Ed
Look closely at the photo of the lock bolt. At the "Y" end, it is broken at the ends on both of sides. I think this may be the reason it was removed. Inland part number 22250 looks very similar but mine shows to have holes for engagement in the mechanism and Inland's shows square blocks. I am sending the photos to Inland tonight to see of they think the whole mechanism is salvageable. I hope so because cosmetically it is in pretty good condition.

Thanks,
Jack

[vswingfield]

Originally Posted by Jack McAllis

Ed
Look closely at the photo of the lock bolt. At the "Y" end, it is broken at the ends on both of sides. I think this may be the reason it was removed. Inland part number 22250 looks very similar but mine shows to have holes for engagement in the mechanism and Inland's shows square blocks. I am sending the photos to Inland tonight to see of they think the whole mechanism is salvageable. I hope so because cosmetically it is in pretty good condition.

Thanks,
Jack

Those holes are where the square blocks have broken off. Mine (one of mine) broke the same way. If I remember correctly, the holes are for springs that push the bolt outwards.



In my case, when the square block broke off, it fell to the bottom and blocked the bolt from withdrawing. This trapped me inside the trailer. One of the screws holding the interior of the lock stripped out it's Phillips drive causing lots of difficulty getting the lock apart and getting out.

Just replacing that bolt with the new replacement should make that lock work like new. (Not particularly well, just like new.)

[Jack McAllis]

Originally Posted by vswingfield

Those holes are where the square blocks have broken off. Mine (one of mine) broke the same way. If I remember correctly, the holes are for springs that push the bolt outwards.

In my case, when the square block broke off, it fell to the bottom and blocked the bolt from withdrawing. This trapped me inside the trailer. One of the screws holding the interior of the lock stripped out it's Phillips drive causing lots of difficulty getting the lock apart and getting out.

Just replacing that bolt with the new replacement should make that lock work like new. (Not particularly well, just like new.)

Thanks much. The part is in stock @ Inland RV I'll order it tonight. I appreciate the input. I'll post info of the results when the bolt arrives.
Thanks again all.
Jack

[BIGED52]

Jack, After looking at your pic closer I see what you mean. Don't know what the part cost is from Inland but someone has a L-100 lockset for sale on the classifieds here on the forums on page 2. Ed

[vswingfield]

Originally Posted by BIGED52

Jack, After looking at your pic closer I see what you mean. Don't know what the part cost is from Inland but someone has a L-100 lockset for sale on the classifieds here on the forums on page 2. Ed

The trouble with that is the one for sale is the ordinary L-100, not the one for an Airstream. To convert it for Airstream use requires the broken part, the bolt.

BTW, VTS is now listing a conversion/replacement bolt for $29.99, no photo though.

[BIGED52]

Well it was worth a post. I may even have my old lockset around here somewhere. Don't remember what was broken on it though. Just hoped to help Jack. Guess new part will get it fixed. Ed

[Jack McAllis]

Originally Posted by BIGED52

Well it was worth a post. I may even have my old lockset around here somewhere. Don't remember what was broken on it though. Just hoped to help Jack. Guess new part will get it fixed. Ed

Thanks guys for the help and info. I'll be talking to Inland and VTS today about the replacement bolt. Is there supposed to be a spring or something to return the knob to center? Wish I could find an exploded drawing if the set...
Thanks again.
Jack

[Jack McAllis]

Originally Posted by Jack McAllis

Thanks guys for the help and info. I'll be talking to Inland and VTS today about the replacement bolt. Is there supposed to be a spring or something to return the knob to center? Wish I could find an exploded drawing if the set...
Thanks again.
Jack

I ordered the replacement bolt tonight. I think I can get the lockset to work again. Have big plans this coming weekend...reinstallation of the subfloor. Will post photos if it happens. Thanks again for the inputs on the Bargman lockset.
Jack

[Jack McAllis]

Big day today. New under floor insulation and new subfloor installed. I did re-test all driving/running lights before screwing it down. All worked correctly. Having a can of Champaigne now celebrating a significant milestone in the restoration. All this said, I had help from my cousin Rives Doss today. Rives is a professional contractor and his experitse made short work of the floor install. I'm lucky and grateful for his help today. Some caulking tomorrow, then gotta be deciding about the decor...whatever that is, it will be period correct, I promise.
Jack

[kevinb]

Way to go Jack!

[Jack McAllis]

The Bargman lockset problem is solved thanks to a SC Airstream enthusiast. He had 3 new L-100s but with a Shasta bolt. VTS sells a custom long bolt which works on the Airstream spacing. I got that and the photos show the retro fitted L-100. The festivities continue.
Jack

[Jack McAllis]

Got the new Bargman installed which means the old hasp and padlock are now history this also means I had holes from the hasp and also from a deadbolt lock a PO had installed once the original door lockset gave up. So I got to try out installing Olympic rivets and also shaving them with the shaving tool that VTS sells. It all worked great and took only a few minutes to install the patch shown in the photos. The photos show the progression from the temporary holding in place with Clecos through trimming and shaving the rivets. I was amazed how much the Olympic rivets look like the factory ones once they're shaved. Then today, I finally got up on top and removed the old (and dead) AC unit. I'll post photos of that project later.
Jack

[BIGED52]

Jack, Looks good! Your patch turned out very nice. Keep up the good work. Ed

[Jack McAllis]

Originally Posted by BIGED52

Jack, Looks good! Your patch turned out very nice. Keep up the good work. Ed

Still at it (slowly). Old AC unit has been removed. That was one helluva morning's work by the way. Airstream mounted them to stay on ( like they installed the subfloor to stay in). Before and after shots are below. Last weekend I installed all new window seals and cleaned/polished the sills and latches. All the latches cleaned up and I did not replace any of them. Amazing what a little cleaning and fresh grease will do... I have a new 33x30 cover cut and drilled to install where the AC was. Will post photos during the installation.




As purchased with original AC on top.



Old AC gone and with new louvre red cover at fridge location.



Grungy window sill (all of them looked like this or worse). Latches removed for cleaning and polishing.



Polished sill and latch. New window seal can be seen at edge of sill.



Trempro caulking is next and I think the window leaks will be in check.

[Jack McAllis]

Spell check took over. The louvre cover is not red. Was supposed to read louvered cover. Technology...

[kevinb]

Jack,

The window frames look great, I need to do that on mine.Sometimes the glass will stick to new window seals, good idea to open them now then and and a little silicone spray on the seals is a good idea.

[Jack McAllis]

A little more progress. I'm chasing the leaks in prep for polishing and getting an interior back in. The window seals have proven to help so far. Started caulking with Trempro and discovered that's not as much fun as I'd hoped. I have to work on my extrusion skills. I put plastic down inside over the new subfloor and go out and survey the leak locations when it rains. The window work has proven to be beneficial and the fresh caulk is without a doubt needed. I figured out a major source of water coming in was in the area around the fridge vent location on the roof. Got up there and removed the "homemade" vent cover. The old caulking was cracked and I bad condition. I cleaned up the roof area, re-caulked the vent housing and installed a new (and more appropriate) vent cover from VTS. Without the old AC and homemade vent cover the Safari looks more streamlined and sleeker (in my opinion). I like it...



This was the old "homemade" fridge vent cover. Major source of leaks.



Homemade vent cover removed. I installed metal screen to keek bugs and other varmints out (hopefully). Then encapsulated the housing with fresh Trempro caulking.



New vent cover temporarily tacked in place with Clekos.



New cover is painted and attached with Olympic rivets.



I think she likes the more streamlined look...

[Jack McAllis]

And today, the cover for the old AC got installed and hokkaido up the back- up lights. Almost ready to start the interior.



Panel is pre-drilled with mastic applied.




Panel tacked in place with Clekos.




Bruce, thank you for the tip on the pneumatic rivet gun...

[robert claus]

Wow, that really looks nice. Everything you are doing is first class work.

[68 TWind]

Jack,
Fine job on the AC cover. Glad you like the rivet gun, I knew you would.