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Old 10-23-2011, 07:00 PM   #61
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1967 22' Safari
Gainesville , Georgia
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Still not moving as fast as I'd like but have made a little more progress. Lower walls now out and ready to go after that floor...The goal is to have the subfloor replaced by Thanksgiving. We'll see.
It's ugly right now but that will change in time.
Jack
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:18 AM   #62
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Jack,

Looking good, where abouts in Gainesville are you ? I would love to come take a look at your progress first hand....You have already taken yours apart further than I did mine. I would like to see what the inside of those walls look like....let me know !!

Kevin
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:59 PM   #63
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Kevin,
I friended you...send me a PM and I'll give you my cell #. I'm near the intersection of McEver Rd. and Brown's Bridge Rd. Love for you to come by...I'm around almost all weekends. The removal of the walls has been revealing in many ways...the quality that Airstram put into the product is amazing (I'm now sure they never intended any of us to have to remove the subflooor and the construction is genius from an engineering and weight savings perspective). Between the old Porsche stuff and the Airstream, I have no reason to not be near the toys whenever possible. Both passions are great therapy. I welcome any and all ideas on the makeover of the Safari. Come by anytime. I do hope to get the floor replaced and start the rebuild by T'giving...
Jack
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Old 11-05-2011, 08:26 PM   #64
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44 year old floor out...

Still having to travel on company business but got the subfloor out today. the frame is in good condition but I'll paint it anyway. Will be a good time to rewire some of the circuits too including the tow vehichle plug-in wiring.

Also plant to have new interior wheel wells made and install new axles now that I can see them. Will need to be careful now steping in and walking around
Stay tuned...
Jack
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:08 AM   #65
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Jack

looks good, at least you dont have to do any frame repair. Might want to increase the number of hold down points through the c-channel at the rear, frame and body dont like each other much and tend to come apart. My 64 the bolts had almost come through the c-channel so I added some aluminum flat stock inside the channel to also help. Not as bad in the shorter trailers at least.

What kind of floor are you going to put down?

Kevin
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Old 11-07-2011, 08:15 PM   #66
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Kevin,
Not sure about the final floor yet...looking at a high end interlocking vinyl that looks and feels like wood (moisture or spills cant hurt it nor can a little grit). But was in Woodstock, GA yesterday and saw a nice "driftwood" real wood floor. I have a little time to decide. I'm trying to keep some common sense in the equation. I do think I have a good solution for heat and air...will share soon. I'm drawing blueprints in the evenings...
Stay tuned.
Jack
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Old 11-19-2011, 02:25 PM   #67
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1967 22' Safari
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New Wheel Wells

I'm still not progressing like I'd hoped but still plugging along. Below are a couple of photos of my new wheel wells. These are aluminum so I hope that if the Safari is fortunate enough to wander another 44 years, these will keep do their jobs. They look good enough to me that I may not cover them with an interior cover. Will seal them so road moisture can't come in...Thoughts anyone?
Jack
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:31 AM   #68
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They look great, not a bad idea to keep them exposed, but kids especially love to sit on them so if you have any rug rats you might want to put spikes on the top.
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:07 PM   #69
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Hadn't thought about that...(kids sitting on them). But I think the configuration I'm considering will have them out of mainstream traffic and seating. One side will probably be inside a cabinet sort of like the original configuration. You make a good point however. My original wells were both Swiss cheese, barely enough left for making copies. Floor back in soon I hope.
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Old 11-25-2011, 05:17 PM   #70
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Such sweet bad memories of my own reseration! I made my new wheel wells of 16 gage steel. Primed them with gray paint and coal tar on the inside.
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:54 PM   #71
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Hey Jack,
looks great man. I just finished the initial gutting of my 74 Safari and it's amazing how similar yours looks to mine. Not much changed from 67 - 74 it seems.
Hope you don't mind if I ask you a couple questions....first did you make the new wheel wells yourself? They look great. Secondly, does the lower interior wall absolutely HAVE to come up to get the floor out and install a new floor? I would love to not deal with the rivets on the walls if I don't have to! Anyway, great thread, looking forward to seeing more.
Eric
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Old 12-04-2011, 04:38 PM   #72
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Eric,
I had the wells made by a local sheet metal shop. I don't mind telling you that they charged me $190 for the pair and that was out of aluminum vs. galvanized sheet. They are exact copies of the originals and fit nicely. My original wells were pretty much swiss cheese especially around the bases where they met the floor/frame. But, there was enough left for a copy and they came out great. I am guessing these wheel wells will outlast me at this point.

I took my lower walls out and the subfloor at the urging of a seasoned Airstream restorer and member of this forum. I didn't plan on that and also didn't plan on replacing the entire subfloor. But, the advice was well worth taking and at this point, while it is a lot of work, I am really glad I did both. My frame is in good condition (will paint it while the floor is out) but I can now get to my brake wiring, etc. and also freshen up any other wiring that runs under the floor (and will be doing that). Others here have done the floor thing and generally, yes, the answer is to remove the lower walls. I also took Bruce's advice and bought a pneumatic pop rivet gun for the re-installation. At Harbor Freight or Northern Tools, they generally run about $70 and will save time and your hands.
Good luck and keep in touch. This forum is great for us starting our first Airstream restoration...
Jack
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Old 01-02-2012, 05:42 PM   #73
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Hi and Happy New Year to all my Airstream friendsÖ
I took advantage of the holiday today and got back on my Safari work. As the previous photos show, Iíve pretty much gutted the interior and now, with the floor out, Iím taking the opportunity to re-wire everything that runs under the floor/inside the belly pan. Also, I learned a long time ago with my first hot-rod car project the importance of being able to stop (I focused a lot of attention on going fast (quickly) with that car. When the time came to bleed off speed, well I didnít have things balanced very well and barely escaped a disaster. Iíve done several cars and old Toyota FJ 40s since then and always deal with the brakes early on now. So, the photos below show my progress in getting the wheels off, hubs removed and will be ordering new brake components right away. All wiring between the pan and floor will be new and all brake components will be replaced. Glad to be back on the Safari. Unfortunately, I picked the coldest and windiest day in N. Georgia in almost a year to work outdoors. She looks unhappy on jack stands, but she won't be suspended long...
Will keep you posted.
Jack
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Old 01-02-2012, 05:49 PM   #74
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Also, I meant to than Lee (silverleeper) for the wiring diagrams he sent in July. I blew them up, printed them and they'll be a great help in the re-wire process.
Jack
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:25 PM   #75
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Happy New Year!

Jack, I like the progress but your weather timing is off a little...LOL! Are you just updating brakes or will you be replacing axle too? Seems like just doing the brakes will work temporarily but in the long run the axle will require work that could be done easier now at the point you are at. Just a thought. Ed
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Old 01-07-2012, 06:32 PM   #76
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If it ever goes, it must be able to stop...

Ed, I know you're right about the axle and Bruce has given the same advice. Due to some other non-Airstream related things, I'm going through the brakes for now. I know I may be retracing some steps later. But, I am trying to do the best to make it safe for its early voyages.

I've actually completely replaced the brake system (wiring too). While the floor is out and before the new wheel wells are reinstalled, I've detailed the undercarriage. I re-mounted the new backing plates and brake components today. I can't mount the hubs yet as I ordered all new bearings and they will not be in for a few more days. My mission here is to get the Safari off of the jack stands. I will have the rims blasted and painted and have new tires mounted once I'm more or less finished with the interior. Progress is slower than I want but I'm having to travel some with my job.

Endless endeavors...
Jack
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Old 01-07-2012, 08:03 PM   #77
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Jack, I fully understand where you're coming from as to doing the brakes for now. I still have the longest running restoration as I got the Safari in '04 and it has yet to leave the driveway. I just get started on a project in the trailer and have to stop and leave town for work. Need to work to afford the trailer restore so try to keep going on trailer a little evry time I'm home as weather allows. It's a vicious circle... LOL! Ed
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:18 AM   #78
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Old axles may give you a bumpier ride but at least your safe. Good idea with new wiring I didnt replace mine but I did slide some garden hose over places in the frame where it was rubbing. Might want to try for the springstream rally in N.GA in april if you are ready by then.

Ed, dont feel bad I have yet to leave my driveway either!

Kevin
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Old 01-15-2012, 12:38 PM   #79
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Remember the ratís nest I sent photos of last fall (the original low-voltage panel identified by Lee with his generous offering of the correct diagrams)? Well, it was too cold to work on the Safari outside so I built a new low voltage panel this weekend. Also worth mentioning is the saga of the grease seals for the new brakes and axle rebuild. I had no trouble with the components for the brakes, backing plates, and bearings. The grease seals on the backside were another thing. That part number (292100) is and has been obsolete for decades I gather. After exhausting the search with local supply houses, I punched the number in on Yahoo and found a link to an active Ebay sale. Turns out it was posted by a guy whoíd bought the correct seals for an Airstream project 20 years ago and didnít use them. Needless to say they are due on my door mid-week this week. My plan is to do a full bore test on all wiring from tongue to tail with all circuits prior to putting the floor back in. Iíve ordered a new set (including spare) of Goodyear Marathons and had the old tires dismounted. The rims are being media blasted and painted gloss black this week and will be ready for the new tires by the weekend. Also have new baby Moons coming for the wheels. Sheíll be off the stands by Sunday if the weather cooperates.
Jack
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:34 PM   #80
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Low Voltage Distribution Panel

Jack, My Rats' nest looked very similar to yours except the white wires & terminal block were mounted on the bottom of the (very rotten) battery tray. Can you send me info on how you built the panel and a better picture of the wiring layout. I can see you have some labels installed on your mounting plate but cannot make them out even after enlarging the pic. Lastly is the backing plate a piece of aluminum stock or what? Thanks, Ed
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