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Old 07-15-2011, 06:27 AM   #21
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1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford, , Mississippi
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Jack,

Your pics bring back memories of what mine looked like. Rachel and I are camping in ours right now. All the work will be worth it. A word about the heater. I thought mine was OK except for the sail switch. I took it to a buddy who is in the HVAC business to check out on the bench(I took him propane and a battery). I had check the crossover tube, knew about that. When he checked everything he noticed the burner was just not acting right. Checking a little more and he found a hole in the heat exchanger. This would allow combustion gas to mix with inside air. It could have been deadly. The hole was not apparent to me. Just a word of caution.
We did not put the vent back in our TW. May at some time but two reasons. First is we don't cook a lot in the trailer. If we cook bacon or something like that we do it outside and second it freed up a lot of storage in the overhead above the stove. Also, the fantastic fan is just behind the stove so it would pull cooking odors out if ever needed.
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Old 07-15-2011, 07:18 AM   #22
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Jack,

I also decided not to reinstall the stove vent. It was in poor shape and my thought process were about the same as Bruce's. Heater was also removed and will probably go catalytic.
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Old 07-15-2011, 09:51 PM   #23
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Gainesville , Georgia
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Ed and Bruce, thanks for the input on the furnace. I do not plan on reusing the original one. I'll do some research on the forums and figure out what to do for heat taking safety as well as comfort into account. I'd heard some scary stories about these furnaces already. Ed, to answer your question with regard to the interior components- I am going to make all new cabinets but in the character of the originals for sure. That's why I saved the remnants for reference and dimensions. My original cabinets were past saving. The range had started to fall through the counter top as the pressed board material under the formica top had started to deteriorate badly. This said, I do not plan to reinstall the original range but plan to put a propane cooktop on the counter with a microwave tucked in below it. I am going to save and refurbish the original range later though...and have a stainless steel cabinet made to mount it in on casters for outdoor cooking at the house (always wanted an outdoor range) along side the smoker...If I disappear from the forums soon you all can assume good Southern cooking/food got me -slow smoked pork BBQ and fried whatever-but all cooked outside

I will post more photos of the inside progress over the weekend. I hope to start removal of the furnace and dinette area components. Then I can get down to that subfloor to see what kind of shape its in.

Onward and upward...
Jack
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Old 07-16-2011, 12:09 AM   #24
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A message in private

Jack, Check the PM I am sending you this A.M. Please send me a response by PM or to my e-mail @ caredcarver@aol.com thanks, Ed
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Old 07-16-2011, 06:36 PM   #25
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Furnace and 2 out of 3 layers of flooring is out

Spent a little time today inside the Safari since it was a little cooler in
north Georgia today. I got 2 out of 3 layers of the flooring out and the old furnace. Hope to get the vinyl flooring out tomorrow so I can see the subfloor condition...
Jack
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Old 07-25-2011, 04:13 PM   #26
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1967 Safari

Hi Jack, We need to talk. I live in NC and have the exact trailer. I bought it March of this year and it was from Arkansas too.
I am in the middle of my restoration. My photos look just like your's. Would like to talk Airstream stuff when you get a chance. My email is bamurphree@gmail.com . C ya, Brett
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Old 07-25-2011, 05:16 PM   #27
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Another "67" wa hoo have fun!!
See my blog as to the damage I have done to mone.
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:40 PM   #28
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Jack's 67 Safari update

All,
Unfortunately, I've been traveling on business for most of the last 3 weeks and haven't been able to devote as much time to the Safari as I'd hoped. But, beyond my last post, I have gotten all of the layers of flooring up/out and down to the subfloor. Overall, it's in decent condition other than a soft spot at the entry door and near the toilet in back. I hate to refloor the whole trailer but also hate to do a patch job. I may just put a thin layer of plywood over the whole interior and go from there...any thoughts?

I received the Route 66 wallpaper I mentioned in a previous post a couple of weeks ago. Then I found Route 66 tapestry fabric...It actually has more texture and character so I may find a way to cover the bulkhead (near dining area) and the overhead storage doors with it. I have an idea on how to use the fabric in these areas. I like the colors and motif since my Safari may have originally been sold on 66. I'll make a sample and share it for feedback soon. Then all I'd need is an autographed Martin Milner photo to hang in the den/master berth right? I'm getting ahead of the progress but will send photos of the interior/floor this upcoming weekend.

Brett, amazing that you found an Airstream in Arkansas too. That's almost too bizarre. Where in AR was the one you found? Where in NC are you? We can definitely share restoration thoughts and tips. This is my first camper / trailer resto but I've done 5 original Toyota FJ-40s and 3 Porsche 911s (all 1972's and the last one being a N GA region division II concours champion for the last 2 years). I actually am looking more forward to the finished Safari than I remember being with the cars...could be I don't have to build an engine this time.

More to come...
Jack
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:36 PM   #29
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Bathroom demolition

After getting the flooring out of the rest of the trailer previously, I got on the bath floor today. The subfloor around the toilet felt soft and I dreaded seeing what was under the top flooring. I had little trouble getting the toilet out but was right about the subfloor around the toilet...it was as rotten as it felt from stepping on it. It had been previously patched and that was done quite poorly. I removed the previous patch exposing what I presume is the top of the waste water tank. I have to figure out a way to install a proper subfloor in this area which I hope will go under the fiberglass wall base at the back of the trailer similar to the way the original floor was installed. It'll be fun to do I'm sure. The good news is that the rest of the subfloor in the trailer is ok. I also removed the Dometic fridge today. Once the flooring is repaired, I plan to lay down a thin new sub over the existing one just to be sure everything is level and flat and build up from there. I'm building new cabinets,etc. anyway so it should be ok.
Still having fun...
Jack
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:40 PM   #30
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This photo has the elements labeled. Fortunately, a section of the frame crossmember is partially exposed to support a subfloor patch...
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Old 07-30-2011, 09:33 PM   #31
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Check and Fix any leaks now!

Jack, Since you already have the sub floor removed over the Black Tank now is the best time to check it! If it is clean inside fill it with water and check it for leaks. If no leaks are found this is real good news! Then check the pedestal and porcelain bowl for leaks/cracks. It could be leaking at the point where it (pedestal) connects to the tank, causing the floor to get damaged from below or from above the sub floor causing the floor to deteriorate from above the tank. The best thing to do at this point to replace/repair the floor is to remove the lower walls and tub and replace a 4' x8" piece of floor going completely under the C channel so it is sealed against further rot. Check out the rest of your sub floor as mine is all plywood not chipboard as yours looks. A PO may have done some floor repair more than once in the past and never correctly identified the cause. If you're getting leaks at the lower belt line trim this could be the source of your floor rot. Ed

P.S. What color are your fiberglas walls/sink/tub? Mine are Aqua as I have an upgrade to international trim package. Yours look like Yellow in the pics but I thought your earlier pics looked like Aqua.
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Old 07-31-2011, 06:44 AM   #32
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Jack
You need to do as Bided52 suggested. The real fix is to remove the tub,surround, lav, and lower wall. Install a new floor. You can't slip a solid sheet in at once due to the channel. Check TomW's web site for pics. Your floor is just like mine was so pm me if you need specific info. It will add a lot of work but you are so close,do it right and you will never have to worry about it again.
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:45 AM   #33
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Bath floor and A/C

Ed and Bruce, I appreciate the input and do want to do this right and only one time. Not sure how difficult it will be to remove the rear wall, etc. but will do the homework on that with you guys.

I'm not disorganized when I start these projects and like to stay on point on one element at a time but really am hopeful to get the A/C going so I can stand to work inside the Safari during the daytime on weekends. As in many areas of the country, GA has had a scorching and very humid summer. By 10:00-11:00, a fan just won't cut it. Also, my wiring (as in most of the old cars I've restored) has been butchered by POs. Must be some kind of a fetish...

Anyway, I absolutely will re-wire what you'll see below and have no intention of leaving this as it is but in an effort to get the trailer cooler during the day I'm hoping for a small miracle. The PO told me this about the A/C:
* It was working in recent times but he disconnected some of the wiring.
* The original A/C unit (Emerson I think) has a new fan motor and I installed a new capacitor.
* I have determined that I am not getting power to the A/C unit but when plugged into AC power, I have appropriate electricity to the 110 outlets and the old Univolt is doing its job as my 12 volt system components (interior lights, ventilation fans, water pump, etc. works ok). But the A/C unit is dead.

I think the issue is in the photos below. I opened the side aft storage compartment door (port side) and found wiring in the photos below.
The photos are of a wiring block I found inside this portal. This block contains some large gauge wiring which I have to believe is related to the A/C system. Obviously, rats, etc. have damaged the wiring and one of the two fuses on the block is blown. I have NOT attempted to connect this to any hot line as it needs to be completely rewired but I am wondering if any of the visible wires could be A/C related. Lastly, there is a 2 prong (circular) plug in the compartment with no evident female outlet in the area. The last photo shows some heavy gauge wires going through the floor in this compartment...I'm doubting Airstream did this but I'm still trying to chase down where all this goes. I've performed a brief (and will do more research this evening) search for wiring diagrams for the A/C. I have the owners manual for the Safari but the included info does not cover the A/C. I'd pay for a wiring schematic if they're available...

Anyway, all the input and feedback is greatly appreciated. Forging onward...
Jack
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Old 07-31-2011, 12:03 PM   #34
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Ed,
You were corect...my bath decor is aqua. It may be non-exisent soon (kidding).
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Old 07-31-2011, 04:11 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack McAllis View Post

I'm not disorganized when I start these projects and like to stay on point on one element at a time but really am hopeful to get the A/C going so I can stand to work inside the Safari during the daytime on weekends. As in many areas of the country, GA has had a scorching and very humid summer. By 10:00-11:00, a fan just won't cut it. Also, my wiring (as in most of the old cars I've restored) has been butchered by POs. Must be some kind of a fetish...

Anyway, I absolutely will re-wire what you'll see below and have no intention of leaving this as it is but in an effort to get the trailer cooler during the day I'm hoping for a small miracle. The PO told me this about the A/C:
* It was working in recent times but he disconnected some of the wiring.
* The original A/C unit (Emerson I think) has a new fan motor and I installed a new capacitor.
* I have determined that I am not getting power to the A/C unit but when plugged into AC power, I have appropriate electricity to the 110 outlets and the old Univolt is doing its job as my 12 volt system components (interior lights, ventilation fans, water pump, etc. works ok). But the A/C unit is dead.

I think the issue is in the photos below. I opened the side aft storage compartment door (port side) and found wiring in the photos below.
The photos are of a wiring block I found inside this portal. This block contains some large gauge wiring which I have to believe is related to the A/C system. Obviously, rats, etc. have damaged the wiring and one of the two fuses on the block is blown. I have NOT attempted to connect this to any hot line as it needs to be completely rewired but I am wondering if any of the visible wires could be A/C related. Lastly, there is a 2 prong (circular) plug in the compartment with no evident female outlet in the area. The last photo shows some heavy gauge wires going through the floor in this compartment...I'm doubting Airstream did this but I'm still trying to chase down where all this goes. I've performed a brief (and will do more research this evening) search for wiring diagrams for the A/C. I have the owners manual for the Safari but the included info does not cover the A/C. I'd pay for a wiring schematic if they're available...

Anyway, all the input and feedback is greatly appreciated. Forging onward...
Jack
The wire mess in the photos is where the battery and converter sit. You should have a 120vac line the will feed the converter and the rest is the 12vdc system.

The line that goes to the A/C will be coming from the 120vac box in the back of the Safari.

Click on the pics to make them bigger...
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Old 08-01-2011, 12:37 AM   #36
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re: bATTERY COMPARTMENT

Quote:
Originally Posted by silverleeper View Post
The wire mess in the photos is where the battery and converter sit. You should have a 120vac line the will feed the converter and the rest is the 12vdc system.

The line that goes to the A/C will be coming from the 120vac box in the back of the Safari.

Click on the pics to make them bigger...
Jack, Lee is correct about that area being your battery compartment on the original layout. However, My Univolt converter was located under the bathroom sink just to the rear of the water heater access door. Where are your converter and battery located now? Perhaps a PO moved some of these items in the past. There was a 12 volt terminal block (all white wires) that was originally mounted under the battery on the bottom of the metal battery tray in my trailer. There was also a set of fuses (30 amp)mounted to the sub floor on a plate that protected the battery and out going power from that point in the schematic IIRC. The 2 prong plug should have a matching female end and was a way to disconnect the battery from the system wiring. With my converter located under the sink there was also a outlet (120 vac) mounted under there that was the power source for the converter. Lees' wiring harness may be different from ours as his trailer was most likely made in Santa Fe Springs or the Cerritos plants in California. Your trailer was likely built in Jackson Center in Ohio like mine. The floor plans between the East and West plants were often reversed from each other. Your bathroom looks identical to mine... So check under the sink cabinet. If the old location for the Univolt transformer/converter was there you may find the (4) old mountings for the retangular converter (approx. 4" apart x 12'" deep. They were bolted down to 2" x 4"s then mounted to the sub floor type. My best guess is that due to floor issues in the past a PO moved some of the wiring to put the battery and converter in a drier location in the trailer. What they should have done was find the leaks first then fixed the floor and left the battery and converter in there original locations. I can't stress this enough. Fix all the leaks first! As for the AC unit you may have to back trace the wiring from the unit in order to determine which wires belong to it. If you are good with a voltmeter you can check for continuity wire end to wire end. Also before you try to fire it up be sure to have it plugged into a dedicated 30 amp outlet. One of your House type circuit breakers in the service center at the rear of your trailer should be a dedicated breaker just to run the AC unit. The other breaker runs all other 120 volt outlets etc. Hope this helps. If you need more specific help with these issues I would suggest you give Andy R. at InlandRV a call. He spent years troubleshoot-ing trailers when ours were new for Airstream and is a wealth of information. He has always been available to help answer any questions on these Vintage trailers. Ed
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:19 PM   #37
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Hi all,
Once again, thanks to you all for input. I'm clearly aware the most probable significant challenge I'll have from a safety perspective is wiring...POs really butchered mine. That said, I can confirm that my Univolt is currently located in the rear under the bath area on the curb side. It seems to be working when I'm plugged in (120v stuff works ok and so does the small 12v wall lights). I will snoop around it for the AC connection/wiring. I now understand the battery storage location but once again, a PO removed any sign of a battery or inverter. I'll deal with that when I replace the Univolt with a more modern system. I am glad, however, to know what that space was for.

I spoke to Bruce Sunday and have concluded that I will dismantle the bathroom and do a proper subfloor replacement in the rear of the trailer and not a temporary patch. Photos will follow. It'll take some time I hadn't wanted to budget but in the end it is the best route for longevity and stability. I'm more than ok with this.

I succumbed to the heat last Sunday (phtoto below) and acquired a temporary AC unit...the heat in N. GA this summer has been tough...Now I think I can work in the Safari for more than 30 minutes at a time mid days on the weekends.

Ed, see the other photo below...is the pointer aimed at the crossover tube in the furnace?

Again, thank you all for the info and feedback.
Jack
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:18 PM   #38
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Yeah

Jack, That is the infamous crossover tube & it should be rubber. If you can remove it intact I could use it as the pattern for my friend (who says he can make me up something much safer) to work on my furnace. He told me already that this Suburban furnace from my trailer is in excellent shape except for the deteriorated crossover tube. He says it must have only been used once or twice as all the parts look to be near new. I think he just wants to satisfy his curiousity as to how the original worked between the combustion chamber and the blower. If you get it out let me know. Now that I think of it my other LP item that looks new is the oven... it too looks like it was never really used. The stove was dirty but has cleaned up nicely. Check the PM I am sending you with my address. Thanks again, Ed
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:23 AM   #39
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Jack
good idea to replace the rear 4' of floor like Ed and Bruce mentioned, I went with a/c plywood (you probably need 5/8") and treat the edges with something ie oil based paint. The walls are easy to remove, buy a pack of #30 drill bits and a high speed drill and the pop rivets come right out. You will also probably find the galvanized box that the black tank sits in is shot. Also make life easy on yourself do the floor in 2 pieces joined w/a half lap.

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Old 08-13-2011, 02:50 PM   #40
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Hey Guys...
Thanks once again for all the input. Lee, thanks for diagrams. I'll blow them up and plot or print them. Greatly appreciated.

I've had a tough travel (work) schedule for the last several weeks and haven't been able to do much on the bullet. But, I did get a few hours in today. The subfloor isn't bad throughout but I've decided it's all coming out and new subflooring will go back in. So, I got part of the "dining" area out this morning and pulled the dining side bulkhead wall out and the sliding bath door. Also drilled out all the rivets in the bath area in preparation for removing all the fixtures and getting to the full floor area. I took care to carefully remove the aluminum trim around the tub, lav, and rear wall area. It needs cleaning up but can for sure be reused. I'm saving any and all parts that may be useful for templates for the rebuild.

The most amazing thing I've run across so far is common sense related. I'm amazed at the amount of butchering of wiring that has been done with no rhyme or reason. But, the other side of that is the quality of installation of things like the unoriginal rear berth and the also unoriginal dining area. The framing and attachment to the walls and floors were good enough to withstand a major earthquake or the trailer being rolled on the highway...go figure.

Anyway, it's still more fun than I had hoped and progress is being made.
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