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BIGED52 · 02-02-2012, 02:57 AM

Jack, After looking thru photos @ VintageAirstream.com I may have found where your vent cover came from. If you go to the model archives then photos for 1962 model trailers (I looked at Safari & Flying Cloud). In the first set of Safari photos on the left side of the page using the scroll bar scroll down to the curbside view (approx.) 6 pics and it shows two louvered vents one above the other to the left of the main entry door. My guess is that a PO had an issue with the small access door on the '67 and did a DIY update to the older style larger louvered vent access. At least you may be able to track down a donor trailer somewhere in a RV salvage yard or thru the forums that would sell you that part. At least you have the part/assembly number so you can verify it is the same as what you already have before you buy one from someone. I always hate buying sight unseen or as my granny would say "A Pig In A Poke"!!! Hope this helps a little. Gee Whiz... This was like watching a History Detectives program episode on Public Television. Ed

Aerowood · 02-02-2012, 08:02 AM

Just a suggestion here, but I had louvers stamped at a Hot Rod shop several years ago for another project (59 Willys Wagon) and the price was quite reasonable. However you would have to use either 5052 or 3003 aluminum because 2024-T3 will crack with louver dies.

BIGED52 · 02-02-2012, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood

Just a suggestion here, but I had louvers stamped at a Hot Rod shop several years ago for another project (59 Willys Wagon) and the price was quite reasonable. However you would have to use either 5052 or 3003 aluminum because 2024-T3 will crack with louver dies.

Jack, This just might be the best way to go! New Aluminum and your old insert grill for the pattern... What a helpful suggestion by Aerowood! I bet this could get your vent updated with the smallest amount of searching and better result than looking all over for a donor grill. Ed

Jack McAllis · 02-03-2012, 06:32 PM

Actually, this was an option I was considering...just need to find a shop in the Atlanta area that can stamp louvers...
I do want to have the access door here in working (and good aesthetic) condition.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll be surfing for a hot rod shop.
Jack

Jack McAllis · 02-04-2012, 05:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack McAllis

Actually, this was an option I was considering...just need to find a shop in the Atlanta area that can stamp louvers...
I do want to have the access door here in working (and good aesthetic) condition.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll be surfing for a hot rod shop.
Jack

And, I meant to say thanks to Aerowood for the suggestion. I am friends with a guy here who does custom car painting. Good chance he may know someone who could do the louvers. Will keep you posted.
Jack

kevinb · 02-04-2012, 07:54 AM

There is a place in Marietta on williams dr. called Metal Supermarket, they may be able to help. Actually you dont need louvers if you have a vent in the floor and one on the roof you can just use an access door, which you can probably find used or get from inland rv.

Kevin

68 TWind · 02-04-2012, 08:00 AM

Jack,

My 68 has hole in the floor with hardware cloth on the floor and on the belly pan.

Jack McAllis · 02-05-2012, 05:57 PM

Finished wiring in the electric brakes today. Also trimmed/located and temporarily mounted the new inner wheel wells. I think I found someone to make the louvered access cover which I am very happy about...not sure I'd find one in any better condition than mine. I need the ventilation that this cover will allow for the new heat/AC unit...I'll explain this soon when I can show some photos of the idea/plan. Smoked some baby backs today while working. It was 70 and sunny in N. GA today. Perfect AS working weather.
Jack

Jack McAllis · 03-01-2012, 07:22 PM

Not from a hot rod shop but a very talented local sheet metal shop...the new louvered cover replacing the damaged and fatigued Dometic uint shown in previous thread.

BIGED52 · 03-01-2012, 11:50 PM

Jack, That new louvered vent cover looks Great! Are you planning to replace the old (rusted) screws that hold the trim around it with stainless steel ones? If so enlarge the holes slightly to remove any dissimilar metals issues with the holes in your skin and get new SS screws from Fastenal. They will have any size and style SS screws you will need. Last time I was in my local store they even had shear-off screws that once the drive head has done its job to tighten the cover in place you snap them off and the remaining head of the screw looks like large rivets and (bonus) won't rust or cause corrosion to the aluminum skin where they are screwed into. I have some Stainless Steel filter material that is about 1/2 inch thick and looks like steel wool mesh in a 2 foot wide roll that I am planning to use to mount inside the Stainless Steel hardware cloth to act as a bug and critter barrier. I am having a aluminum c channel square frame made to (load) the mesh into so it will not be able to move around in the belly pan and will have it mounted (Pop Riveted) to the belly pan skin. It will really reduce the amount of bugs and critters that were able to go right thru the old Galvanized hardware cloth. I can tell you there were a lot of bugs and critters that most likely got into the belly pan and then into the trailer thru the old floor vent and belly pan. I cleaned up about 40+ years of them since I have owned the trailer. Never thought at first that they were coming in thru the fresh air vent. Once the new hardware cloth and the mesh are installed it should be a much cleaner air flow to the gas appliances. I have to stop being long winded. Waiting to see your further progress in this thread. Ed

Jack McAllis · 03-02-2012, 06:16 PM

Ed, thanks... I thought the cover came out nice too. I'm lucky to have a good metal guy nearby. He also made my wheelwells. And yes, I will not only replace the rusty screws, but also the trim / frame around the cover also. Ultimately, the exterior will be polished and so will these parts. I like the sound of the shear screws and will look for them. I plan to buy the correct rivet kit to install and shave OEM type rivets soon. I am at a point that I can't begin the subfloor reinstallation until I've finished removing the old roof AC and re-seal all the seams. It does take on some water when the rain comes hard. So, I will be putting scaffolding up hopefully this weekend to be able to work on top.
Where did you get the stainless wool you mentioned? I need to put some on the inside of that cover and a few other places.
Jack

BIGED52 · 03-03-2012, 03:12 AM

Jack, Best bet on the stainless wool filter material is a heating cooling contractor or supply house. I work with Insulators at nuke plants and they use it in vents for bug and critter barrier behind the vent panels for A/C and Heat units. My Heat and Frost Insulators Local is for Asbestos removal so I see these Guys often. I am due to work @ Quad Cities Nuclear this month. I will find out the actual name for the product and post it here for you. Ed

Jack McAllis · 03-11-2012, 07:31 AM

Over the past few weekends, I managed to make a little more progress. I cleaned and restored the holding tank. I installed a new OEM Thetford valve and did some patching on the styrofoam pad it rests on. I water tested it and found a tiny hairline crack/leak near the valve area. I had bought some professional automotive panel (metal to metal) epoxy for installing some patches in the belly from removed lines, other PO holes, etc. This stuff is fantastic but requires a special gun to extrude it (it mixes as it extrudes). I had some of this left so I applied a generous amount around the area of the hairline crack. Water tested again for several hours...no leaks. The photo doesn't show the later painting of the tank with epoxy paint. It's ready to install and plumb.
Yesterday, with some help, we set scaffolding up so I can get up top and get the AC unit off and seal the holes. While I have the scaffolding, the plan is to clean and seal all the joints in the roof and go ahead an polish the top. I know the neighbors would be happy if I can get the scaffolding down sooner than later...
More later.
Jack

kevinb · 03-11-2012, 08:19 AM

Nice job on that black tank valve, I have never changed one but looks pretty scary. Most black tanks need the galvanized box they sit in replaced due to damage/rust, was yours ok?
Scaffolding may look ugly but its the way to go when working on the roof.

Kevin

Jack McAllis · 03-12-2012, 06:36 PM

Kevin,
The area where my tank sits (on the styrofoam pad) is constructed of aluminum and is in reasonably good condition. I can't say if it's completely original but the tank and pad fit it perfectly. I have a few small holes to repair but overall the area is in good condition. I'll post photos of the re-installation soon.
Still having fun...
Jack

Jack McAllis · 04-07-2012, 08:20 PM

It’s been a while since I posted but I’ve been making a little progress. As of today, all the driving lighting and electric brakes have been re-wired and tested. All circuits work as they’re supposed to. I rebuilt the holding area for the black water tank and it was restored a few weeks ago. Last weekend, I got the steel skeleton / floor supports brushed with a heavy steel brush and painted with rust resistant paint. Today, in addition to completing the wiring, I installed the black water tank and permanently installed the new fender wells. If the weather cooperates, I may be able to get the new sub-floor installed.

Bruce, If you’re still following this…I used the pneumatic rivet driver you recommended for the first time today. It is definitely a tremendous improvement over the old manual one I used previously. Thanks for the tip on this.
Jack

68 TWind · 04-08-2012, 08:12 AM

Jack,

Looks great. Glad you like the rivet tool. When you start to put the floor in , you might want to drop the black tank out of the way. The wood will have to slide under the channel and with vent tube on the black tank you can't slide it into position. Also, be very careful measuring the position for the hole in the plywood for the toilet and vent. Wheel well tubs are very nice.

Eric H · 04-08-2012, 09:50 AM

Looks good! Those wheel wells sure do look nice. I'm about to do 12volt wiring, what gauge wire did you use for the 12 volt if you don't mind me asking...

Jack McAllis · 04-08-2012, 02:58 PM

Photos are attached of what I believe is the OEM door lock assembly. It was removed and in a box when i bought the Safari last summer but appears to be all there. I think the latch mechanism is damaged (photo attached). If there is a chance it can be repaired, I'd love to reuse it.
Any thoughts will be appreciated.
Jack

BIGED52 · 04-09-2012, 07:04 AM

Jack, The assembly you have pictured is a replacement L-100 model. It is the same one I bought from InlandRv to replace my original lockset that had broken after I bought my trailer. The original had a lever handle and locking button on the interior of the door. The one you have locks by pushing in and turning the inside knob handle. What is broken on it? I see from the pictures that it looks complete. Is the casting cracked or broken somewhere? Ed