Which engine oil for Chevy 454?

[92landyacht]

Originally Posted by udidwht

Not the first ad I've seen that labeled a lifter incorrectly.

You need to give in on this one. Flat tappet lifters are both hydraulic and sold and DO refer to the "flat" bottom of the lifter design. Actually they're not flat but slightly crowned. As opposed to roller lifters that have a round roller at the bottom. Don't call out a cam company for being incorrect as they're the ones that created the terms in the first place.

Just a few that would agree:

https://help.summitracing.com/app/an...er-camshaft%3F

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...et-roller-cams

https://www.compcams.com/cam-types

[Outbackga]

92LandYacht, yes I agree.

So, I can show you a flattened cam lobe from my Dodge 360 with hydraulic flat tappets while using Valvoline 10w-40 synthetic oil. It was changed while on the road by a shop due to some non-related repairs, and was driven less than 2000 miles. I had to replace the cam and lifters.
It seems that Valvoline, like most modern oils have reduced ZDDP due to catalytic converters. Mine, being a 1973, has no catalytic converter. I run Mobil1 15W-50 for the high ZDDP content and 50 weight is listed in the manufacturers acceptable list.
This is my specific experience, but I do not want the expense and downtime of replacing the cam and lifters again. I have put over 50,000 miles on another vehicle using this oil, a 1987 V8 with 32 valves, no issues.
I do believe oil analysis is a great way to track your engine health.

[thewarden]

Yes, motor oils with a high-zinc formula are a must to protect flat-tappet cams, lifters, rockers & other critical components in pre catalytic classic vehicles that run these types of valvetrains.

At least that is what 40 years of building classic hot rod engines has taught me.

[udidwht]

Originally Posted by thewarden

Yes, motor oils with a high-zinc formula are a must to protect flat-tappet cams, lifters, rockers & other critical components in pre catalytic classic vehicles that run these types of valvetrains.

At least that is what 40 years of building classic hot rod engines has taught me.

During break in. Afterwards no. There are many, many out there with BBC engines using no high added ZDDP oil without any issues.


Been running Mobil 1 10w-30 full synthetic for years without any issue. My Blackstone reports show the oil can easily go 2+ years without a need for change. The TBN count will dictate when one should change. A number greater than 1 is sufficient. On my last report the TBN was 6.3 (started at 8) after just over 2 years and roughly 7K miles. I have now increased the interval to 10K (regardless of time). No signs of water in oil.

[bobmiller1]

Oil’s cheap, engines aren’t, been using Mobil 1, 10W30 myself……$25.00 Walmart (s). I change it at the beginning of the camping season every year. Regards, Bob

[udidwht]

Over the years there has been an overabundance of engine oil myths. Here are some facts you may want to pass along to customers to help debunk the fiction behind these myths.

The Starburst Oil Myth -- The latest myth promoted by the antique and collector car press says that new Starburst/ API SM engine oils (called Starburst for the shape of the symbol on the container) are bad for older engines because the amount of anti-wear additive in them has been reduced. The anti-wear additive being discussed is zinc dithiophosphate (ZDP).

Before debunking this myth, we need to look at the history of ZDP usage. For over 60 years, ZDP has been used as an additive in engine oils to provide wear protection and oxidation stability.

ZDP was first added to engine oil to control copper/lead bearing corrosion. Oils with a phosphorus level in the 0.03% range passed a corrosion test introduced in 1942.

In the mid-1950s, when the use of high-lift camshafts increased the potential for scuffing and wear, the phosphorus level contributed by ZDP was increased to the 0.08% range.

In addition, the industry developed a battery of oil tests (called sequences), two of which were valve-train scuffing and wear tests.

A higher level of ZDP was good for flat-tappet valve-train scuffing and wear, but it turned out that more was not better. Although break-in scuffing was reduced by using more phosphorus, longer-term wear increased when phosphorus rose above 0.14%. And, at about 0.20% phosphorus, the ZDP started attacking the grain boundaries in the iron, resulting in camshaft spalling.

By the 1970s, increased antioxidancy was needed to protect the oil in high-load engines, which otherwise could thicken to a point where the engine could no longer pump it. Because ZDP was an inexpensive and effective antioxidant, it was used to place the phosphorus level in the 0.10% range.

However, phosphorus is a poison for exhaust catalysts. So, ZDP levels have been reduced over the last 10-15 years. It's now down to a maximum of 0.08% for Starburst oils. This was supported by the introduction of modern ashless antioxidants that contain no phosphorus.

Enough history. Let's get back to the myth that Starburst oils are no good for older engines. The argument put forth is that while these oils work perfectly well in modern, gasoline engines equipped with roller camshafts, they will cause catastrophic wear in older engines equipped with flat-tappet camshafts.

The facts say otherwise.

Backward compatibility was of great importance when the Starburst oil standards were developed by a group of experts from the OEMs, oil companies, and oil additive companies. In addition, multiple oil and additive companies ran no-harm tests on older engines with the new oils; and no problems were uncovered.

The new Starburst specification contains two valve-train wear tests. All Starburst oil formulations must pass these two tests.

- Sequence IVA tests for camshaft scuffing and wear using a single overhead camshaft engine with slider finger (not roller) followers.

- Sequence IIIG evaluates cam and lifter wear using a V6 engine with a flat-tappet system, similar to those used in the 1980s.
Those who hold onto the myth are ignoring the fact that the new Starburst oils contain about the same percentage of ZDP as the oils that solved the camshaft scuffing and wear issues back in the 1950s. (True, they do contain less ZDP than the oils that solved the oil thickening issues in the 1960s, but that's because they now contain high levels of ashless antioxidants not commercially available in the 1960s.)

Despite the pains taken in developing special flat-tappet camshaft wear tests that these new oils must pass and the fact that the ZDP level of these new oils is comparable to the level found necessary to protect flat-tappet camshafts in the past, there will still be those who want to believe the myth that new oils will wear out older engines.

Like other myths before it, history teaches us that it will probably take 60 or 70 years for this one to die also.

[Akins]

If your engine has flat tappets use the the Lucas high zinc
I have 2 of the 454s in our boat and use this religiously

www.lucasoil.com/product/hot-rod-classic-car-10w-40-motor-oil/

[ROBERT CROSS]

"Bertha" is running fine after all these years.👍

Bob
🇺🇸

[AlbertF]

Originally Posted by Boxite

Jenni, ..... if you want to start an argument bigger than current politics.... go to WalMart to the motor oil aisle and wait for Bubbas to show up and pick up their favorite oil...then say to them... Ya know...that's not the best oil to use...
Then stand back and watch the sparks and fists fly.

The Bob is the Oil Guy forum is a rabbit hole too! I found that trying to determine the best oil for my tow car. After hours of reading, I don't know if I'm much closer to a decision on what I should use!

[Life is a Highway]

Lucky you no Cat! so enjoy this product that is loaded with additives to protect that engine's cam shaft lifters and bearings.



You can PM me for more information. Your preferred protection oil is below



AMSOIL Z-Rod in either 10W-30 or 10W-40

• Engineered for classic vehicles
• Helps retain horsepower
• High-zinc formula protects flat-tappet cams, lifters, rockers & other critical components
• Protects against rust during storage

This cannot be used in a vehicle with a Catalytic Converter.

[Life is a Highway]

You know the correct product!

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

"Bertha" is running fine after all these years.👍

Bob
🇺🇸

[92landyacht]

I guess the "This cannot be used in a vehicle with a Catalytic Converter" warning makes this product unusable in my 454 driven 36' 1992 Airstream Land Yacht. I guess I'll still be using my Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10w30.

[Life is a Highway]

If you have a Catalytic Converter use Amsoil signature 10W-30
I assumed you were minus the catalytic

Originally Posted by 92landyacht

I guess the "This cannot be used in a vehicle with a Catalytic Converter" warning makes this product unusable in my 454 driven 36' 1992 Airstream Land Yacht. I guess I'll still be using my Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10w30.