Which engine oil for Chevy 454?

[Roquefort]

Hey Jennyflow,
stay with the 10-30, use a quality oil ftom Penzoil or similar and you're "safe"!
Regarding the Oil consumption, there is a economical way to reduce it from "WYNN'S". A clear oil additive, like liquid Honey. It reduces "blue" oil smog a bit, increases also a bit the compression in your engine.
We used 3 cans (250ml each>> 1000 ml is about 1 quart) and we were "fine".
The oilpan in our "babies" is very small, so regardless the oil consumption, PLEASE change oil & FILTER (!!!) as described in the manual, at least once per year. Especially "short trips" will allways bring some gas in your oil, due to the primitive old fashioned Rochester Quadrajet Carburetor. (You can smell it sometimes on your dipstick!)
Have save trips, Happy Airstreaming, Best, Marcus!


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums!

[Jenniflow]

Hey Marcus,

Thanks so much! I have greatly enjoyed reading about your escapades, BTW.

We have not been changing the oil every year because we don't always drive it in a year, which means all the more that we should change it when we do drive it.

Next time I'll try an additive and see what happens and yes, with 10-30. I'm not feeling that adventurous yet.

Jenni

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by Jenniflow

Hey Marcus,

Thanks so much! I have greatly enjoyed reading about your escapades, BTW.

We have not been changing the oil every year because we don't always drive it in a year, which means all the more that we should change it when we do drive it.

Next time I'll try an additive and see what happens and yes, with 10-30. I'm not feeling that adventurous yet.

Jenni

Snakeoil additives are a waste of your money, but a placebo for your concern, and may actually harm your engine. If it were good for your engine, then why do you suppose engine mfr's threaten to void your warranty if you don't follow their recommendations (which never require additives?) And, BTW... just because an engine is beyond warranty does not change the engine's maintenance requirements. Don't do after-the-warranty what you would not do during.

Changing the oil in accordance to mileage-useage is certainly smart.

Changing the oil in accordance with chronological-useage is also smart. Maybe even smarter. Why?
Because when you burn (oxidize) carbon-fuel (Hydro-Carbons) the by-products are largely carbon monoxide/dioxides (CO/CO2) and WATER (H2O). Most of that water goes out your tailpipe as vapor, but some of it bypasses your piston rings and goes into your crankcase where it cools, condenses, and mixes with your oil.
A lot of that evaporates again when the engine is operated/hot and exits the crankcase (usually going into the intakes to be burned again or overboard to atmosphere.)
But... when you let that engine shut down and SIT for a year.... the moisture in the crankcase begins to eat/rust-up the interior parts of your engine, creating serious damage in the short and the long term. Some folks recommend starting up a stored engine and running it 20-30 minutes every so often as a method of recoating the internal parts with oil that may have drained off. BAD IDEA!
All that does is contribute MORE WATER to the oil,...which you just now RECOATED onto all the internal parts! Each time you do that you make it worse and worse.
The best way to store an engine is to drain the oil at the end of the service-period while the engine is still hot. Operate the engine only a few minutes after the oil change to recoat interior parts with the fresh oil, then seal the intake and exhaust with wax paper/etc. I stick an upside-down wax-paper Dixie-cup into the tailpipe and use a rubber-band or string to tie plastic-wrap across the air intake (to prevent ingress of humid atmosphere and vermin as the daily temps increase/decrease and air exchanges in/out of intakes/exhausts) and do not operate the engine again until ready for regular service. (Even more stringent storage can include replacement of spark plugs with dessicant-plugs, removal of battery, tires, etc to long-term storage, but that is beyond what most owners are willing to accomplish.)
Anyway...don't long-term store with old oil and don't short-term operate a stored engine. (And don't forget to remove that intake wax-paper before starting it up again.) Hope this helps.

[Jenniflow]

Hey Boxite,

Thanks so much for this. It makes plenty of sense to me and I wish I'd heard this years ago.

Unfortunately, I've already stored the unit with the old oil I guess I'll do it better next time.

Thanks again,

Jenniflow

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by Jenniflow

Hey Boxite,

Thanks so much for this. It makes plenty of sense to me and I wish I'd heard this years ago.

Unfortunately, I've already stored the unit with the old oil I guess I'll do it better next time.

Thanks again,

Jenniflow

Depending upon the storage facility/situation, you might still drain the old oil, change the filter, then start it up for a few minutes to circulate the oil, then shut it down before it heats up. Just a suggestion.

[Jenniflow]

Well, I'm certainly considering it now. Although the coach is 5 hours away.

Jennifer

[jhenry]

Hi Jennifer My experience is I use a full synthetic 10-30 in my 454 I have my 1988 325 in my yard so I run my unit once a month for about 45 mins [so that is different than some thoughts given already]My unit has almost 30000 miles and does not use oil. I have a 2003 Ford f150 with over 400000 klks or 240000 miles and have had great success in using synthetic oils. This fall I put in Amzoil synthetic to see if it does any more improvement. we have varied climate that get cold so that may change your requirements,I do believe you should change oil before storage. Jonathan

[Jenniflow]

Hey Jonathan,

Your engine is a lot less "experienced" than mine. I've got over 80K on it.

I just replaced the tranny though! (yikes)

For some reason, I'm nervous about using synthetic. Maybe they didn't have it in mind when they built mine and would have recommended if they had.

I think I'll start with better hygiene (!) as Boxite suggested, and see how far I get. If I hear persuasively from many other Streamers that the 10-30 synthetic is the way to go, maybe I'll switch then.

In the meantime, we've got some basics to improve.

Thanks for your thoughtful comments!

Jenniflow

[sadie10023]

Hi there
I am having to start my ‘’95 33ft Land Yacht up after sitting 2 years-storage location closing. Life got in the way.
I’m buying 10-30 Valvoline to have on hand
Per your comments here, what the worst ?
-starting and running a short distance? (God willing it fires)
-or letting it warmup and get oil through parts.
I’m a novice just coming back to rescue this beast been sitting.
Thanks

[Jenniflow]

If it were me - and it has been - I’d top it up and let it run for 15-20 minutes. But I’m no mechanic!

[92landyacht]

Personally I'd dump the oil and do a complete oil and filter change. You have no idea how much moisture you've picked up over that 2 years. Check all the other fluids as well just to make sure that they're up to proper levels.

It's not usually a good idea to start an engine and only let it run for a few minutes. I'd get her started (assuming that the gas is still good) and let her run until it comes up to normal temperature. Meanwhile you can check for any leaks, bad sounds or otherwise improper things. Might want to verify that the battery is charging as well.

If it's been sitting unused for two years, double check the braking system. When I bought my 1992 LY, it had been sitting for about the same amount of time. When I tried to drive it to a gas station just down the road I found that one of the front brakes was locked up solid. Turned out to be the rubber brake line on that wheel had deteriorated and cause the fluid to only flow in one direction. Ended up having it towed to my house for $380.... Ouch!

[Outbackga]

All this discussion about oil weights is OK, but your owners manual will specify what weight oil for what temperature.
HOWEVER it will not mention that starting with the advent of catalytic converters, oil manufacturers dropped ZDDP (zinc-phosphorus) as it clogs the converters and engines moved to roller tappets to compensate.
Engines with flat (non-roller) tappets REQUIRE high ZDDP. Check the ZDDP rating of whatever oil brand you choose. I use Mobile1 15-50 BECAUSE it has high ZDDP, and 50W is shown in my owners manual as acceptable for the high temps I see in the south. NOT ALL OTHER Mobil1 products have this. (1000-=1200 ppm ZDDP).
Chose wisely, or you will be replacing camshafts and tappets.

[B. Cole]

Originally Posted by 92landyacht

Personally I'd dump the oil and do a complete oil and filter change. You have no idea how much moisture you've picked up over that 2 years. Check all the other fluids as well just to make sure that they're up to proper levels.

It's not usually a good idea to start an engine and only let it run for a few minutes. I'd get her started (assuming that the gas is still good) and let her run until it comes up to normal temperature. Meanwhile you can check for any leaks, bad sounds or otherwise improper things. Might want to verify that the battery is charging as well.

If it's been sitting unused for two years, double check the braking system. When I bought my 1992 LY, it had been sitting for about the same amount of time. When I tried to drive it to a gas station just down the road I found that one of the front brakes was locked up solid. Turned out to be the rubber brake line on that wheel had deteriorated and cause the fluid to only flow in one direction. Ended up having it towed to my house for $380.... Ouch!

I totally agree.Dump the oil out, where it sits.Dont even start it up,to heat oil up, for a normal oil change.Lot of moisture in there.Go to Walmart,get a 5 quart jug of cheap 10w-30 and filter.Change oil,( fill new filter if you can before installing) Then hopefully it starts up.Charge battery before starting.After a week or so, of driving( getting it hot) dump that oil out, and put some Valvoline 10W-30 or whatever, new oil in that big block.
That old gas might be very problematic.Never store anything without treating gas with a stabilizer, like PRIG.
Good for 2 years then.

[B. Cole]

Originally Posted by 92landyacht

Personally I'd dump the oil and do a complete oil and filter change. You have no idea how much moisture you've picked up over that 2 years. Check all the other fluids as well just to make sure that they're up to proper levels.

It's not usually a good idea to start an engine and only let it run for a few minutes. I'd get her started (assuming that the gas is still good) and let her run until it comes up to normal temperature. Meanwhile you can check for any leaks, bad sounds or otherwise improper things. Might want to verify that the battery is charging as well.

If it's been sitting unused for two years, double check the braking system. When I bought my 1992 LY, it had been sitting for about the same amount of time. When I tried to drive it to a gas station just down the road I found that one of the front brakes was locked up solid. Turned out to be the rubber brake line on that wheel had deteriorated and cause the fluid to only flow in one direction. Ended up having it towed to my house for $380.... Ouch!

I totally agree.Dump the oil out, where it sits.Dont even start it up,to heat oil up, for a normal oil change.Lot of moisture in there.Go to Walmart,get a 5 quart jug of cheap 10w-30 and filter.Change oil,add a little of your Valvoline to top it off( fill new filter if you can before installing) Then hopefully it starts up.Charge battery before starting.After a week or so, of driving( getting it hot) dump that oil out, and put some Valvoline 10W-30 or whatever, new oil in that big block.

[udidwht]

Originally Posted by Outbackga

All this discussion about oil weights is OK, but your owners manual will specify what weight oil for what temperature.
HOWEVER it will not mention that starting with the advent of catalytic converters, oil manufacturers dropped ZDDP (zinc-phosphorus) as it clogs the converters and engines moved to roller tappets to compensate.
Engines with flat (non-roller) tappets REQUIRE high ZDDP. Check the ZDDP rating of whatever oil brand you choose. I use Mobile1 15-50 BECAUSE it has high ZDDP, and 50W is shown in my owners manual as acceptable for the high temps I see in the south. NOT ALL OTHER Mobil1 products have this. (1000-=1200 ppm ZDDP).
Chose wisely, or you will be replacing camshafts and tappets.

Not quite....


A solid lifter is referred to also as a flat tappet lifter. A flat tappet lifter can only be used with a flat tappet cam.



A hydraulic lifter must use a cam designed for hydro valve. They are not flat tappet lifters.


A roller cam is an entirely different design but serves the same purpose.


The issue of cams going flat several years back was solely related to flat tappet cams/lifters (aka...solid lifters). It was presumed it was oil related when in fact after a period of time the issue was found to be related to billet material for cams during the period had changed metallurgy.


Starting with the Gen V 454 ~1991 Chevy moved to a hydraulic lifter cam & lifters. No flat tappets.

[thewarden]

Originally Posted by udidwht

Not quite....


A hydraulic lifter must use a cam designed for hydro valve. They are not flat tappet lifters.


A roller cam is an entirely different design but serves the same purpose.


The issue of cams going flat several years back was solely related to flat tappet cams/lifters (aka...solid lifters). It was presumed it was oil related when in fact after a period of time the issue was found to be related to billet material for cams during the period had changed metallurgy.


Starting with the Gen V 454 ~1991 Chevy moved to a hydraulic lifter cam & lifters. No flat tappets.

This is not entirely accurate. Flat tappet lifters can be either solid or hydraulic. The "flat tappet" refers to the flat bottom surface of the lifter that rides on the cam lobes. You do indeed need a different grind on the cam, depending on whether you are using hydraulic, solid, or roller lifters.

[thewarden]

Originally Posted by 92landyacht

Personally I'd dump the oil and do a complete oil and filter change. You have no idea how much moisture you've picked up over that 2 years. Check all the other fluids as well just to make sure that they're up to proper levels.

It's not usually a good idea to start an engine and only let it run for a few minutes. I'd get her started (assuming that the gas is still good) and let her run until it comes up to normal temperature. Meanwhile you can check for any leaks, bad sounds or otherwise improper things. Might want to verify that the battery is charging as well.

If it's been sitting unused for two years, double check the braking system. When I bought my 1992 LY, it had been sitting for about the same amount of time. When I tried to drive it to a gas station just down the road I found that one of the front brakes was locked up solid. Turned out to be the rubber brake line on that wheel had deteriorated and cause the fluid to only flow in one direction. Ended up having it towed to my house for $380.... Ouch!

Totally agree, do not start it, dump the oil where it sits. Fill with fresh oil, 10-40 for a big block. Before you start it up, pull the coil wire and crank the engine over until the oil light on the dash goes out, or, if you have a gauge, you see the needle move up on the gauge. This build oil pressure and will start to circulate the oil, pumping up your lifters, and pump oil up the pushrods onto the rocker arms. It will also get some oil in the cam journals and cam lobes so nothing is DRY, when it first fires up. It is these first seconds of a startup, especially after a long period of sitting, that does the most engine damage. Spinning the engine over with the starter first will prevent a lot of that damage. Many a cam lobe has been severely damaged when run dry for even a few seconds at startup, not to mention other engine internals.

[udidwht]

Originally Posted by thewarden

This is not entirely accurate. Flat tappet lifters can be either solid or hydraulic. The "flat tappet" refers to the flat bottom surface of the lifter that rides on the cam lobes. You do indeed need a different grind on the cam, depending on whether you are using hydraulic, solid, or roller lifters.

The issue was almost exclusively related to solid lifter cams. I know this for fact because I and a few others worked out the issues in the VW-Porsche air-cooled community years back. When one refers to 'flat tappet/s' they're referencing solid lifter/s.

[thewarden]

Originally Posted by udidwht

The issue was almost exclusively related to solid lifter cams. I know this for fact because I and a few others worked out the issues in the VW-Porsche air-cooled community years back. When one refers to 'flat tappet/s' they're referencing solid lifter/s.

Still not correct, but OK.

[udidwht]

Originally Posted by thewarden

Still not correct, but OK.

Attachment 397156

Not the first ad I've seen that labeled a lifter incorrectly.