Best TPMS for an Airstream

[rmkrum]

Son was on the road when this happened. He found SOB tires where he broke down and replaced all 4 of the GYMs and the tires have behaved since. I'd have to look at them to determine the actual brand of ST tires he found, but we put a fair amount of travel on them with no issues.

Don't plan to replace with 14" GYEs quite yet, but it may be an easier choice. Probably go to 16" wheels and Michelin tires of some sort.

[PSU1981]

So after a great amount of feedback I have decided to go with the TST 507 because: 1. Easy to Program 2. Color Monitor 3. Can charge the monitor or hook up with USB or Cig Lighter 4. Can have anti-theft on sensors or can remove easily 5. Comes with a repeater - though with 27' AS hooked up to a Tundra - not sure going to need this. 6. Can replace batteries in sensors instead of buying new sensors 7. Sensors are light weight 8. 2 types of mounts for monitor included.

So we shall see..... went ahead and got sensors for 2015 Tundra also since all the truck has is a low pressure light that comes on without telling you the P or location.

Thank you all soooooo much for your input!!! This forum is excellent !!!

Glenn

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by PSU1981

So after a great amount of feedback I have decided to go with the TST 507 because: 1. Easy to Program 2. Color Monitor 3. Can charge the monitor or hook up with USB or Cig Lighter 4. Can have anti-theft on sensors or can remove easily 5. Comes with a repeater - though with 27' AS hooked up to a Tundra - not sure going to need this. 6. Can replace batteries in sensors instead of buying new sensors 7. Sensors are light weight 8. 2 types of mounts for monitor included.

So we shall see..... went ahead and got sensors for 2015 Tundra also since all the truck has is a low pressure light that comes on without telling you the P or location.

Thank you all soooooo much for your input!!! This forum is excellent !!!

Glenn

I think you will be happy. You might notice when you turn on each time by plugging in before your trip, it takes a few minuets for the signals to calibrate with the receiver...be patient is my advise...it should be fine. Mine does this each time I turn off the engine, but within a mile or so of leaving, everything works. Same is true if your driving and loose a signal to one of the tires...just hit the switch toggle or disconnect power from USB for a second to restart and should all come back on...I am happy with my unit now with 4 very long trips....something else to look at while driving those long roads going from camp a to camp b!

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by PSU1981

AS hooked up to a Tundra - not sure going to need this.

I didn't know my Tundra had a USB charge port ABOVE the "AUX" input to the radio. You need to have your head almost on the console to see it. So you can charge the monitor with a USB to Mini B without the 12v. lighter adapter.
BTW, TST recommends you do NOT leave the charge plugged in. Charge it and let the battery power it.
Mine lasts forever. I had a flashing "lo batt" warning and I drove another 400 miles and it was still going.

As far as the repeater, you can try it both ways. I used a square of industrial Velcro under the plastic propane tank cover and ran power to the Zamp plug.

[PSU1981]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

I didn't know my Tundra had a USB charge port ABOVE the "AUX" input to the radio. You need to have your head almost on the console to see it. So you can charge the monitor with a USB to Mini B without the 12v. lighter adapter.
BTW, TST recommends you do NOT leave the charge plugged in. Charge it and let the battery power it.
Mine lasts forever. I had a flashing "lo batt" warning and I drove another 400 miles and it was still going.

As far as the repeater, you can try it both ways. I used a square of industrial Velcro under the plastic propane tank cover and ran power to the Zamp plug.

Mollysdad - what exactly is the Zamp plug?

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by PSU1981

Mollysdad - what exactly is the Zamp plug?

On my battery box there's an external plug for a solar panel. I assumed all Airstreams had this. It's a two prong plug which is actually a SAE-2 wired backwards. I added a SAE-2 to the end of the repeater, and before driving, I just plug it into the "Zamp" plug. Zamp is the name of a solar provider. Ergo, Zamp plug.

[Adventure.AS]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

.... It's a two prong plug which is actually a SAE-2 wired backwards. ...

It isn't 'backwards' it is wired that way to avoid accidentally shorting out the exposed positive.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by Adventure.AS

It isn't 'backwards' it is wired that way to avoid accidentally shorting out the exposed positive.

But the positive IS exposed.
That's why I had to flip the connector on the repeater, what I thought was positive was negative.
I could have reversed the leads on the battery, but the + has a fuse holder, so I left that positive.
I know there's a reason, and perhaps it has to do with the positive on the suitcase solar panel being protected.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Great point; I might add, if there is something happening to the tire like tread separation which could lead to a blowout the temp likely would be going up and the alarm would sound and show temp compared to other tires.... I have read here on the Forum and other Forum's several incidents where a blown tire has caused extensive damage. Same if you picked up a nail or something where a "slow leak" might become a fast leak after your back driving on the highway... Like insurance...but, maybe not worth it to some folks...

As a tire engineer, I am sorry to inform you that having a belt separation will probably not generate enough heat to set the TPMS warning off.


TPMS stands for Tire Pressure Monitor System It does not and for all intents and purposes can not provide advance warning of tire failure due to belt/tread separation.



Air leaks can cause failures in a few miles as seen in my blog post on Blowout a real-life experience on an Airstream, to after a few hours depending on how fast the leak is. Some TPM offer warning if the pressure drops by just a couple psi in a couple of minutes or less. Some will not warn till you drop 15% below the cold inflation pressure which means you first have to lose the pressure you gained from normal driving.


I know of no consumer-level device that can advise of a belt separation as separation can take thousands of miles to grow large enough to result in the tire coming apart.


I have posted on my RV Tire Safety blog on how to do a thorough tire inspection to discover if you have a separation. Even a video and pictures of a tire belt separation before the tire came apart. I covered the "Why" of tire failures in THIS post. Did you read and understand that information?

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

As a tire engineer, I am sorry to inform you that having a belt separation will probably not generate enough heat to set the TPMS warning off.


TPMS stands for Tire Pressure Monitor System It does not and for all intents and purposes can not provide advance warning of tire failure due to belt/tread separation.



Air leaks can cause failures in a few miles as seen in my blog post on Blowout a real-life experience on an Airstream, to after a few hours depending on how fast the leak is. Some TPM offer warning if the pressure drops by just a couple psi in a couple of minutes or less. Some will not warn till you drop 15% below the cold inflation pressure which means you first have to lose the pressure you gained from normal driving.


I know of no consumer-level device that can advise of a belt separation as separation can take thousands of miles to grow large enough to result in the tire coming apart.


I have posted on my RV Tire Safety blog on how to do a thorough tire inspection to discover if you have a separation. Even a video and pictures of a tire belt separation before the tire came apart. I covered the "Why" of tire failures in THIS post. Did you read and understand that information?

I have read your post a few times and respect your background. I do trust in the TST TPMS system to give a good snapshot of what is going on while driving and warn of low pressure, what ever the cause. I do believe that tire tread/sidewall separation or bubbles which could end up leaking causing loss of pressure could surely lead to higher temps and warnings. Am I wrong that this could happen?

By the way, I have had both instances happen to me.....without any TPMS. Not fun.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

I have read your post a few times and respect your background. I do trust in the TST TPMS system to give a good snapshot of what is going on while driving and warn of low pressure, what ever the cause. I do believe that tire tread/sidewall separation or bubbles which could end up leaking causing loss of pressure could surely lead to higher temps and warnings. Am I wrong that this could happen?

By the way, I have had both instances happen to me.....without any TPMS. Not fun.

If a tire has the correct pressure for the actual measured load (load capacity in the tables is 115% of the measured load) and you drive under 75 for Motorhomes and under 65 for trailers, your tire is not likely to get hot.

If you have a puncture, cut or leaking valve you will lose air and the tire will get hot and can fail in 10 to 50 miles depending on your load, speed, and rate of air loss. The failure on the airstream in my RV Tire Safety blog post of July 22, 2012, appears to have been the result of a valve core leak that started 50 miles before the tire failed.


Belt separations are different and can happen with no active leak of air at the time of the separation. Once the belt comes apart the tire can then suffer a rapid air loss AFTER the belt separation. This is because of Interply Shear. Belt separations take hundreds to thousands of miles to develop and grow big enough to cause a tire failure. Proper inspection can show signs of separation before complete failure.



Have you read THIS post?

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

If a tire has the correct pressure for the actual measured load (load capacity in the tables is 115% of the measured load) and you drive under 75 for Motorhomes and under 65 for trailers, your tire is not likely to get hot.

If you have a puncture, cut or leaking valve you will lose air and the tire will get hot and can fail in 10 to 50 miles depending on your load, speed, and rate of air loss. The failure on the airstream in my RV Tire Safety blog post of July 22, 2012, appears to have been the result of a valve core leak that started 50 miles before the tire failed.


Belt separations are different and can happen with no active leak of air at the time of the separation. Once the belt comes apart the tire can then suffer a rapid air loss AFTER the belt separation. This is because of Interply Shear. Belt separations take hundreds to thousands of miles to develop and grow big enough to cause a tire failure. Proper inspection can show signs of separation before complete failure.



Have you read THIS post?

My situation where I had tread separation and bubble leaking was due to old tires on an RV I purchased that had low miles, lots of tread, but had been sitting for years...lesson learned about tires for sure.

[PSU1981]

Originally Posted by PSU1981

So after a great amount of feedback I have decided to go with the TST 507 because: 1. Easy to Program 2. Color Monitor 3. Can charge the monitor or hook up with USB or Cig Lighter 4. Can have anti-theft on sensors or can remove easily 5. Comes with a repeater - though with 27' AS hooked up to a Tundra - not sure going to need this. 6. Can replace batteries in sensors instead of buying new sensors 7. Sensors are light weight 8. 2 types of mounts for monitor included.

So we shall see..... went ahead and got sensors for 2015 Tundra also since all the truck has is a low pressure light that comes on without telling you the P or location.

Thank you all soooooo much for your input!!! This forum is excellent !!!

Glenn

Follow up on this - yesterday installed TST 507 TPMS - couldn't be easier to setup - love the rechargeable color monitor. Installed the repeater powered by 8 AA 12V Battery Clip with on/off switch -- installed with 15 lb Velcro strips inside propane tank cover & H2O proofed Clip using quart size zip lock bag & some monster tape.

[Michael Anna]

This thread has been very helpful in providing knowledge and wisdom on TPMSs and we've decided to purchase an internal sensor system.

One quick questions. In reading those who have the Dill internal sensor, the rim hole diameter is .453" based on referencing the part number installed, is that the same size that I need for our Serenity with standard 15" rims? The Tuson system I am considering comes in two sizes, .625 is the other size. We're also going to install the Centramatic 200-221 when installing the TPMS.

We just want to make sure to get right size before ordering, thank you.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by Michael Anna

This thread has been very helpful in providing knowledge and wisdom on TPMSs and we've decided to purchase an internal sensor system.

One quick questions. In reading those who have the Dill internal sensor, the rim hole diameter is .453" based on referencing the part number installed, is that the same size that I need for our Serenity with standard 15" rims? The Tuson system I am considering comes in two sizes, .625 is the other size. We're also going to install the Centramatic 200-221 when installing the TPMS.

We just want to make sure to get right size before ordering, thank you.

Most standard Passenger & LT & ST wheels are .453"
Some large truck and old VW wheels are the larger .625


many bolt in valves come with two sets of rubber bushing/washers, one for each size.

[Michael Anna]

Thank you Tireman9, I appreciate your response. Back in 2005, we towed our first Airstream across the United States without a TPMS. Then we owned a Bluebird Wanderlodge equipped with TPMS and learned how important it is to safe travels and peace of mind. It is a "must have" for our new Airstream now, and could not imagine towing without it. We are also going to put TPMS on our enclosed utility trailer, it is fairly cheap for the peace of mind it provides.

[Ditter]

Glad to here all worked out with your TPS system.
after reading the comments it is very clear that TPS is an important tool to have on trips but every stop also still requires a quick walk around to visually inspect tires i also feel for heat on tires along with hubs.

[jrkott]

Originally Posted by Michael Anna

This thread has been very helpful in providing knowledge and wisdom on TPMSs and we've decided to purchase an internal sensor system.



One quick questions. In reading those who have the Dill internal sensor, the rim hole diameter is .453" based on referencing the part number installed, is that the same size that I need for our Serenity with standard 15" rims? The Tuson system I am considering comes in two sizes, .625 is the other size. We're also going to install the Centramatic 200-221 when installing the TPMS.



We just want to make sure to get right size before ordering, thank you.

We have the .435 size Tusons on our 2018 Classic 33. They work well. The air pressure readings are within .5 psi of my Snap On air gauge. The temperature readings seem to be very accurate too. You can see the temperature and air pressure increase on the side of the trailer that is in the sun. You can also see the temperature increase while braking downhill.

[GOUSC]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Yes, some rubber valve stems have a metal cover over part of the stem.



The best way to know for sure is to look for a nut that "bolts-in" the stem to the wheel. I would suggest a TR416 or similar as seen HERE from Auto Zone. O'riley's has a similar short stem. The hole in your wheel is most likely 7/16" not 5/8" Some metal stems come with two different rubber gaskets, one for each size hole. the gasket is just a snug fit and should just push in.



Note the nut has a torque spec of 25 - 45 INCH Pounds so do not over tighten the nut. I have found that a regular 9/16" wrench is just fine and you do not need a big ratchet wrench to tighten the nut.


Keep the stem short to lower the chance of the TPMS being knocked off if you get near a curb.




While you are at the auto parts store be sure you have METAL valve caps. Rubber and plastic caps are IMO only good for keeping dirt and small birds out of the valve core area. Metal caps should have rubber "O" rings in them and can retain air if you are not running TPMS. In the winter when I remove my TPM sensor i install valve caps as I lost one tire that went flat over the winter due to valve core leak.

Thanks for suggesting the metal valve stem from Auto Zone. I finally got around to doing this today and it worked great. No flex issues with these stems. Put one ramp on each side and lifted it enough to get 2 wheels off at a time. Took them to Discount Tire with the new stems. They didn't even charge me for the labor as I've purchased other tires from them. Thanks again for the advice from all.

[gypsydad]

Question; just how much "accuracy" are you loosing with stock rubber valves stems vs metal stems with the TPMS 507?? My contention is when "at speed", the readings from either stem is very close no matter which stem. I have read the "nay-sayers" who believe the accuracy is affected by the external exposure when in motion; but I contend the accuracy difference with either metal or rubber with the valve cap style monitors is negligible, when in motion and is pretty accurate in PSI and temp readings.

My point is, either type valve stem and transmitter system (external cap monitor transmitter vs internal monitor transmitter) works fine for the application intended: monitoring your PSI and temps, looking for a warning when one tire is way out of sync from monitor in cab. Thoughts?