I winterized, and here is how I did it

[majorairhead]

I winterized, and here is how I did it.

I drained black and grey tanks, and did a major black tank flush at our final full hookup campsite.

Upon returning home, I drained freshwater tank, left it open. Here I ran the on board water pump for a short interval.

I then bypassed water heater, removed the nylon plug, and let it drain. I then flushed out the water heater using a camco 11691 wand. Then using a hand pump/siphon I removed as much water as possible from the water heater. Finally, I wound some plumbing tape around the plug, which was in good condition, and reinserted, so as to be ready for next season.

Next I opened the low point drains, opened the freshwater inlet, and opened black tank flush.

I set my air compressor to 50 psi and blew out black tank flush. Then I connected air to the freshwater inlet, and with low point drains open, blew that. I used a camco blow out plug 36143.

Then I went inside and opened the main sink faucet, closed low point drains, and blew out main sink faucet, then opened bath faucet, closed main sink, to blow out bath faucet, then depress toilet, close bath faucet, to blow out toilet, then open bath faucet, then open shower faucet, then close bath faucet, to blow out shower faucet.

The idea here is to have at least one fixture open at all times.

Finally I opened main sink faucet, closed shower faucet, opened outside shower faucets, closed main sink faucet, and blew out outside shower faucet.

I did this blowout routine a couple times. I also made sure to run both hot and cold sides of each fixture when blowing out the lines.

After disconnect of the air, I closed everything up, all of it, except fresh water drain.

I then removed the inlet line to the pump, screwed on the winterizing hose, and plunged the hose in a gallon of pink stuff. Here, make sure you don't lose the washer that's in the pump inlet line connector, that would be bad. Also, I stuff a hand towel in under the pump, to catch any water that might drip out when disconnecting the inlet line, and maybe catch that rubber washer if it jumps out of there.

I then turned the water pump on, and ran each fixture until pink stuff came through. The whole process here took almost 2 gallons. When the first gallon empties, pull the hose, careful not to spill a bunch, and stuff it in to the second gallon jug. Don't forget the outside shower. I could probably do it with a gallon and a half, but I like pink in the traps, and a little pink in the black and grey water tanks too.

I also open the low point drains briefly, after putting a tub under there, and run some pink out of them. Careful here, you just have to open and close 'em fast, as the pump will blow a whole bunch out of those low point drains. Ask me how I know

After running the pink through everything, I wiped up the pink in the sinks, and shower basin. I then re-connected the water pump inlet hose. I also removed the screen on top of the water pump and cleaned it.

I think that's about it. The whole process took about an hour and a half.

[wulfraat]

Pretty much exactly how I do mine. I pour a little more pink stuff in the p-traps and black tank for good measure.

I also let pressure build between flushing the various faucets, shower head, etc.

Don’t forget that dang outdoor shower head too!

After about 5 seasons with a couple additional times in between you’ll cut the time down to 30-45 min [emoji4]

[GOUSC]

I pretty much follow the same procedure except for a couple deviations.

I don’t run the pink stuffed through the lines. In NC I can get away without doing so. If we have a run of cold weather I will run a space heater just in case. We’ve even lost power in cold weather and never had a problem in 35 plus years. Might be a different story in PA.

I put a little pink stuff in each drain trap and in the black and grey holding tanks. I also add a little vegatable oil to lube up the holding tank valves.

Also add some silicone spray to the toilet seal to keep it flexible over the winter.

On my last trip before winterizing I open the water tank drain valve at my last rest area stop so as much will drain out of the tank as possible by the time I get home.

[CRH]

I do the same as the OP.

Remember to remove the under counter water filter if you have one. I have a diverter for it.

I leave pink stuff standing in the toilet.

I only use propelyne glycol pink stuff. No ethanol.

[waninae39]

I do most of those steps.

but i leave the bottom lower drains open so any water can leave the AS.

i DO NOT put any antifreeze into the lines. I simply put them into the traps and the toilet to keep its seal wet

i also leave the HW water plastic plug off, so that IF THERE IS ANY water left, it can evaporate

[Al U. Minium]

Originally Posted by GOUSC

I pretty much follow the same procedure except for a couple deviations.

I don’t run the pink stuffed through the lines. In NC I can get away without doing so. If we have a run of cold weather I will run a space heater just in case. We’ve even lost power in cold weather and never had a problem in 35 plus years. Might be a different story in PA.

I put a little pink stuff in each drain trap and in the black and grey holding tanks. I also add a little vegatable oil to lube up the holding tank valves.

Also add some silicone spray to the toilet seal to keep it flexible over the winter.

On my last trip before winterizing I open the water tank drain valve at my last rest area stop so as much will drain out of the tank as possible by the time I get home.

Also in NC and do the same. Keeping pink stuff out of fresh water lines means opening up for spring is a lot easier.

Have a 7 night trip to Huntington Beach next month so won't winterize until after that. Will hit the freshwater tank and lines with some disinfectant in March to be ready for next season!

[Ky76Argosy]

Good summary. Just couple points to add. Jack front up to gravity flow to low water point drain. I open low water points drain valves first then open water heater drain plug. Then blow out heater by pressurizing waterlines and undoing WH drain plug. Then close by-pass valves to water heater. Also, I limit my air pressure to under 30#, and 10-15# will work, just so air blows residual water out faucets. Old trailers like mine may still have copper lines and 50# pressure is scary high, at least for me, and lower pressure works for me. And at 30# you get tremendous explosive blowout force. Can’t imagine 50#, yikes. Yes don’t forget to blowout pump toilet flush foot pedal, and sprayer hose. Remember Tub/shower needs some RV antifreeze in P-trap. Best RV antifreeze propylene glycol type, more expensive, but does not taint waterline and lubricates plumbing seal, unlike cheaper ethanol or blend will do. Be Safe.

[majorairhead]

We always schedule a full hookup site first thing in spring. Hook up the sewer line, and the city water hose, and flushing the system is a breeze. Open up all faucets and let them flow til clear. Also, open up low point drains and flush her out there too.

After that, then open up water heater bypass.

Thanks all for your comments

I washed the entire trailer before backing her in to the garage. That way I can wax it over winter.

I also lubricate the storage compartment latches and entry door, awning struts, check the interior cabinet hinges and hardware for tightness and fit, inspect the roof, and do other little maintenance stuff over the winter months.

I currently have a foam gasket to replace under the lid of the bathroom fan.

Absolutely remove all food items, clothing, etc.

[majorairhead]

Originally Posted by Ky76Argosy

Can’t imagine 50#, yikes.

50# is per my Airstream manual. I always get that manual out and look it over prior to the process.

I'm kind of interested if you think it's necessary to raise and lower the jack if you're blowing out the lines?

[waninae39]

i have also std street valve. this way i can easily remove the main water filter and the water pump.

they stay inside all winter

[Adventure.AS]

There is no need to leave the pink antifreeze in the lines as all of the water has now been displaced!

I drain it out into a bucket and put it down the drains. After draining I blow out the lines again. (You can use Less AF this way too.)

This also makes the system easier to de-winterize and prevents the AF taste permeating the water lines.

[Ky76Argosy]

Hey, major airhead, glad 2019 manual directions for your 30’ gives 50# air pressure. I don’t see in my model manual. Will look again. Must be a rush when open the faucet. Do you open slowly, or full all at once? Years ago when first searched I saw 30# mentioned. My 1976 Argosy has Pex replacement lines from new water pump to shower, so copper lines on back half of system from under tub/shower to galley sink. I guess I get job done with my repeat process and reduced air pressure helps ease my worries affecting 25 yo lines, fitting and seals. Be safe.

[BobnGayl]

Originally Posted by majorairhead

50# is per my Airstream manual. I always get that manual out and look it over prior to the process.

I'm kind of interested if you think it's necessary to raise and lower the jack if you're blowing out the lines?

50 psi air pressure is huge. Although water pressure may be the same, or even higher, the explosive force contained in 50 psi air is huge. Water doesn’t compress, gases including air do. I would never go over 20 psi to push water out of the lines. Also, if you are using air pressure to drain the water I don’t see any need to elevate the tongue. If you are using gravity only to drain, then maybe.

FWIW.

[fthopkins]

Say Major Airhead (and others that have the answer to this question),
This may start a whole new thread, but I wonder what you use (and how) you wax your aluminum tube? I bought a used unit ('87) and no manual.


How I don't stir up a hornets nest with this question.

[dnsapp]

Don't forget the spray hose on the kitchen sink. You need to blow out the water with the air and then also run the pink stuff out of it when you do the kitchen sink.

[Don McKelvay]

Excellent suggestions from everyone. The only thing I do differently is turn the water pump on and put a little antifreeze in the pump - no need to fill all the lines - I used to do that but found it a waste of antifreeze. Blowing the lines etc gets rid of all the water. Come on Spring!

[majorairhead]

To clarify the air pressure, the manual states to have all faucets and valves open, and the pump outlet valve disconnected, prior to applying air. Maybe next time I'll go strictly by the manual.

Since I did one outlet at a time, I imagine 50 psi could be high, but under no circumstance would I apply air pressure to the water lines without at least one faucet or valve being open.

[majorairhead]

Originally Posted by fthopkins

Say Major Airhead (and others that have the answer to this question),
This may start a whole new thread, but I wonder what you use (and how) you wax your aluminum tube? I bought a used unit ('87) and no manual.

How I don't stir up a hornets nest with this question.

I've been using Walbernize on my unit.

[dcohen461]

Incredibly impressive. We are getting our International in March and the list of what it took to winterize is making me very nervous.

[majorairhead]

Originally Posted by dcohen461

Incredibly impressive. We are getting our International in March and the list of what it took to winterize is making me very nervous.

This is one of the reasons I tried to go through step by step what it is I did to winterize.

You see several fellow 'streamers weighed in on some things they do in addition, or maybe a bit differently.

Remember the newer units are different from the older. Like, the toilet flush is different on older units, and my unit doesn't have a kitchen sink spray nozzle, it's just the single handle faucet there.

My suggestion is take it step by step per your manual. Then you'll get a good feel for it.

Some folks don't use the antifreeze, they just blow out the lines. Maybe I'll try that some day, but I'm just too wary of not getting all the water out, so I run the pink stuff through it. It helps me to sleep at night in January when the temperature is 2 degrees and the winds blowing 20mph