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Old 10-26-2020, 08:24 PM   #1
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Essex , CT
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Help Winter is coming!!!

This is going to be my first winterizing experience. I dove into it and want to make sure that I get it right. I plan on blowing the lines out from the city water first. Then pump antifreeze through. Finally I found the water pump, but am not sure how to hook up a hose to that pump.

1)I've attached a picture and am not sure what size hose and connector to get?

2) What happens to the lines between the water pump and fresh tank? How do I get antifreeze in that?

3) Do you use a hand pump to pump through antifreeze from the city water?
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Old 10-26-2020, 08:45 PM   #2
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AnAirstream, this is a diverter valve.

https://www.campingworld.com/pump-co...veType+0111=10
It is connected just upstream from the pump.

Here is my setpp, tho for emergencies only as I normally use air only
post 3007 https://www.airforums.com/forums/f54...ml#post2425912


My understanding is that you don't need to blow out the lines with air...the antifreeze serves that function. Open each faucet and lp till you see solid pink. Remove and drain both shower hoses/heads. Fill the traps with antifreeze and some for the BW/GW. Leave a half cup in the toilet bowl


Drain the HW heater and turn the bypass valve.


With the diverter you pull antifreeze from the jug, thru the pump and out all faucets and the toilet.

You still have to manually blow back FW into the fw tank. I use some poly and a 1/2" male adapter. Don't pump antifreeze back to the FW tank. You'll never get the taste out. Just drain the tank.


1)I've attached a picture and am not sure what size hose and connector to get? 1/2" NPT...camco's designed for all RV fittings.

2) What happens to the lines between the water pump and fresh tank? How do I get antifreeze in that? YOU DON'T. see above

3) Do you use a hand pump to pump through antifreeze from the city water? I believe that is a yes unless you blow lines out with air. You need to get antifreeze from the FW connection into the system. The pump and diverter will distribute it from there. In-fact, in my pump picture there is one in the background next to the poly tubing.


Don't forget to blow out or push AF thru the BW connection. The cheapo plastic Back Flow preventer has a bad history with AS's.

FWIW, here is a link to a recent thread re winterizing. I posted my winterization checklist.


Post #9
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f45...ml#post2426331


I expect no shortage of winterization threads in the upcoming days.


FWIW you may want to add your year and model on the left. It helps folks respond more accurately


p.s. looking at your picture, if the filter is at the bottom and the supply side, you don;t have a lot of room and maybe need to actually cut into the pex to install the diverter. Maybe think all air??
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Old 10-26-2020, 08:49 PM   #3
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Help Winter is coming!!!

I believe you can pump through city water inlet, the limitation would be a check valve would prevent Pink to enter electric pump and water would remain and very likely cause damage to it. If you intend to use Pink itís best to purchase a bypass kit so you can introduce Pink from inlet side of pump. Also you donít want pink in fresh water or hot heater. I think if you were to remove the pump after using city water inlet it would be a mess, Pink would drain back toward pump unless there is a shut off close by.
In an on road emergency pumping from city inlet may work if you could heat the interior to protect the pump from freezing. Others with more experience probably have other methods.
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Old 10-26-2020, 09:47 PM   #4
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1) It looks like you have a screen-type filter on the input side of your pump. You can unscrew the hose from it, then unscrew it from the pump, and take to to a hardware store to find a hose that fits it.

BTW, it is a good practice to unscrew the clear top of the filter and check/clean out the inside so you don't accumulate crud in there.


2) On my trailer, the line from the fresh tank to the pump is pretty short. I always run the pump until the pump is sucking air. Then I know there is little water in that line. When I am doing the pink stuff, I unscrew that hose from the pump and it self-drains what little water is left. The line does not have to be 100% empty, it just has to have room for the bit of water left to expand when it freezes.



3) I'm a belt and suspenders guy. I blow out the lines with air, then feed pink stuff through the pump. I figure the blow-out step is enough to take care of the line from the city water inlet to where it meets the pump output. The distance is short, and it's all either downhill or flat.

I also blow out the black tank flush line with air.

By the way, a bicycle pump with the right adapter is sufficient for blowing out short sections like the city water input and the black tank flush. But I wouldn't want to blow out the whole system with one.
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Old 10-26-2020, 09:56 PM   #5
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Before you pump pink, drain your water heater and set your bypass valve. Otherwise, you'll be filling your water heater w antifreeze. That can take gallons of pink.
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Old 10-27-2020, 09:41 AM   #6
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Thanks so much I agree I don't want pink in there.
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Old 10-27-2020, 09:42 AM   #7
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This is really helpful and what I am thinking I am wondering if I get he correct adaptor if I can blow backwards from the pump to the fresh tank. I agree, I am going to run pump until it is just starting to spit nothing.
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Old 10-27-2020, 09:42 AM   #8
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Yes! Thank you
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Old 10-27-2020, 09:45 AM   #9
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I agree the room is tight in there. I think the only way is to either a connect right to the pump or b cut an inlet into the feeding hose and install the bypass there. I have to research how to blow back through the blackwater. That is new to me, thanks for point it out.
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Old 10-27-2020, 09:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnAirstream View Post
This is really helpful and what I am thinking I am wondering if I get he correct adaptor if I can blow backwards from the pump to the fresh tank. I agree, I am going to run pump until it is just starting to spit nothing.

As I understand it, the diverter allows flow from from the FW tank to the pump or from the AF jug to the pump, but not back to the FW tank. I disconnect at the pump, thread in a 1/2 mail adapter (to the pump supply connection) with a 2' poly tube, and simply blow back using lung power. If the FW tank still has water in it, it will gurgle. As the line is emptied, air should flow freely
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Old 10-27-2020, 11:05 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSquared View Post
3) I'm a belt and suspenders guy. I blow out the lines with air, then feed pink stuff through the pump. I figure the blow-out step is enough to take care of the line from the city water inlet to where it meets the pump output.
I guess Iím a two belt and suspenders: blow out, pump antifreeze and blow out again. No need to leave the antifreeze in the pipes, as it performed its function of mixing with any latent water and it reduces the amount of water needed to flush the antifreeze when dewinterizing, which is important to me. Compressor is already set up, so minimal extra work. I use the antifreeze that is blown out in the sink traps and toilet.

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Old 10-27-2020, 07:13 PM   #12
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I have a rather comprehensive winterizing checklist that I have created for my AS Flying Cloud, 2014, 27ft. You can modify it for any model AS. If you would like a copy, email me at: sgraner@aol.com
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Old 10-27-2020, 08:44 PM   #13
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Good idea with blowing back using lungs. I think I might use that one!
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Old 10-27-2020, 09:04 PM   #14
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Greg, thank you. Blowing out with air is how i learned, and each year, the TT taught me about it's plumbing idiosyncries. My only problem in 5 years was OTR in Tehachapi, Ca. 28 expected, but didn't take into account the windward side of the trailer on the DS. I expect the wind chill that night was 20. That morning discovered my BW BF/ck valve had gone south. I now better understand winterizing OTR.

I now carry a small inflator and your suggestion of following with AF makes for good OTR winterizing insurance. Now in MO, ( vs OR) i may follow that protocol for MO winter storage too. Makes a lot of sense even considering my home compressor has a higher cfm and i feel comfortable about the tubes contents. I suspect winters here will be a tad more substantial than Eugene.
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Old 10-27-2020, 09:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnAirstream View Post
Good idea with blowing back using lungs. I think I might use that one!
Not sure of your rig, but in our 20, it is only about 6 ft to the tank. A huff and puff does it.
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Old 11-11-2020, 08:25 PM   #16
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We live in a place that can get very cold so I always blow the system out and pump RV antifreeze.


Normally the RV antifreeze input hose is attached by removing the pump pre-filter and attaching the hose directly to the intake side of the pump. Be very careful re-attaching the pre-filter. The clear plastic consists of 2 pieces and can leak if not properly sealed.


After doing this a few times I opted to add the 3-way valve.
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Old 11-11-2020, 08:27 PM   #17
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we remove the pump and all water filters

we blow out the system and only pour anti-freeze in the traps and toilet

never had a problem in all the years
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