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Old 12-06-2015, 09:52 AM   #1501
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Reading Mel's diesel swap I think he mentioned the alternator and tach drive wire....
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Old 12-06-2015, 03:24 PM   #1502
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Reading Mel's diesel swap I think he mentioned the alternator and tach drive wire....
I've never dealt with a tach driven from an alternator. Guess I'll do some research to see what the differences might be.
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Old 12-06-2015, 09:04 PM   #1503
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I know Brad... Who knew!

Ok, I was working double hard on sunday...
Went to the storage around midday.
Finished up the fuel tank filler neck clamps, and got everything tightened up.
Put 10 gallons of gas in... did not even register on the gauge!

I figured out the suspension compressor issue.... somewhat...

So, here is my snakes nest on the front bulkhead....
No fancy blue thingy like you Peter!


So I test the "Breakers", and none of them have power....
When I supplied power to the #2 down, I hear the compressor start... I knew I was on teh right track at last!

I spent an hour fiddling around and no joy...
So, I moved on to priming the fuel lines, and the engine would not start... Turn the key... click!
It was cranking just fine before....
My 2x 6v house batteries are at home, so I took my spare Dodge van battery and attached it as my House battery to boost the chassis battery, thinking that it was low.
As soon as I connected it, and turned on the ignition... I hear the Compressor start up!
Someone has obviously changed the feed for the compressor to the house battery!
What I did find was that the rocker switch that I thought controlled it... does not! And also it runs for a few mins and then I hear a "Ping", and it shuts off, which I assume is the breaker...

So now I have an engine that wont crank!
Checked the chassis battery... 12.5v and a new battery.
Remove and clean all the battery connections, nothing. I check all the connections on the battery tray... looks fine.
Then I check the starter connections...
First I find the main power connector if not tight... I turn the power off to tighten it...
But I quickly find another issue, that maybe related or not... either way its not good and needs fixing.
I drop the starter out to investigate further.
Here is one of the power cables running to the main lug on the starter!
Melted insulation, probably from heat radiating from the Banks headers.




I chased this wire, up and over the transmission, into the drivers side harness, and on to the solenoid shown in my #1 picture on this post.
I think there is enough slack to cut off the damaged section and crimp on a new connector.
I pulled teh starter and will bench test it tomorrow, as well as order a starter heat shield!
Ugh...
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Old 12-06-2015, 09:41 PM   #1504
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That made head spin, I think I will pass out

The blue thingy I have is the Isolator. It keeps the 2 battery system separate, but they share the same charging system from the alternator. What you have in that place appears to be the starting solenoid, either activated by a switch in the glove compartment or by the ignition.
That starter wire looks very scary and appears to be more than just heat damage
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Old 12-06-2015, 09:44 PM   #1505
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I know.... Never a dull day with an ASMH!

Mr Gasket starter heat shield ordered!
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Old 12-06-2015, 11:07 PM   #1506
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Oh my...
I am a Dumb @ss... I just realized what I did to cause the non start condition!
Moved the shifter to D!
I was trying to get a straight shot at the header bolts on the LH or drivers side head.
Could not loosen them, because I forgot to bring the correct tools today, so gave up.
Neutral safety switch!
DOH!
Planned to pull off the LH header so I can weld in a O2 bung to tune the carb and later put TBI on...

Ok, grumpy, but happy because I found a possible safety issue with that cable.

Another issue I found was the "Soundproofing" on the doghouse has failed and fallen down.
Pic from hood looking into engine.

I brought the doghouse home tonight and will look at my options.

Also, forgot to post, I had a fuel flood condition, in the carb... I was puzzled... not had that before that I was aware of, so I tested the fuel pressure... 2 to 4 psi with just the Mech pump, and 8psi with the rear electric pump on.
That is my Fuel Pressure tester gauge you can see in the pic, which reminded me!
8psi is too much pressure for most carbs.
4 to 5 psi is fine.
Holley Fuel pressure regulator and gauge on its way.
Engine oil and filter was changed today... I think the oil smelled of gas... maybe the fuel pump was leaking into the oil.

Another issue I had was a PS fluid leak... drips off the bottom of the pump. Think its coming from the pipe between the underhood reservoir and pump. Pulled that off too, but no clue what type of pipe to use!

More fun tomorrow!
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Old 12-07-2015, 06:24 AM   #1507
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I used wire mesh before to fasten the doghouse insulation.
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Old 12-07-2015, 06:31 AM   #1508
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Good idea Peter.
It's too far gone and looks like hell anyway. It's outta there!
I am thinking MLV as a base layer and then some fireproof material I happen to have...
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Old 12-07-2015, 06:04 PM   #1509
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That was an arc from hell waiting to happen....a little gas from an old fuel line, some residual oil to maintain the flame and flambé au de Airstream. Wouldn't be the first, unfortunately probably won't be the last.

Good catch Steve, but I wonder how long it took your heart to start beating again.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:12 PM   #1510
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I know Tony!

I pull the doghouse out, and today I stripped it of all fiberglass insulation off... and the darn thing is ABS!!!!!
Good job that is fire resistant! NOT!
Ugh.
And now I am all itchy!
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Old 12-07-2015, 08:42 PM   #1511
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Here is the heat shield I ordered.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-3678/overview/

I also plan to put a heat wrap on the starter to double protect it.

So, today I was "In the Doghouse".....
Here is the wreck.


A few hours of work and I have this....



I got it DA sanded and prepped now.


Am planning to put a 1/2" layer MLV on the inside...


Then a layer of some fire rated material, I just happen to have a roll of to hand...
Its called ZetexPlus, and is fire rated to 2000F..


I built a exhaust heat shield for my Alfa with it last year, and it works fantastic.
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Old 12-08-2015, 12:49 AM   #1512
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Teleflex

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Great info guys!

Ah-HA, Peter, I did not know those little blocks were breakers!
Now I know where to look!


Brad, I saw your post about Teleflex electronic speedometers... freaked me out, cos I bought 2 new ones a couple of years back... I checked mine and they are cable driven!


While we are talking about the Teleflex gauges... is the stock Tachometer spark driven or alternator pole driven???
On the Teleflex subject….

Does anyone have a line on an OEM Air Suspension gauge? Any thoughts on a source for repair?

Thanks,

Charly
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Old 12-08-2015, 07:53 AM   #1513
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I have got to get that rudder angle indicator!! If I can only figure out how to hook it up to sense the steering wheel turning.
Here ya go Dave, they just dropped the price by $10...
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Old 12-08-2015, 08:05 AM   #1514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
So, here is my snakes nest on the front bulkhead....
No fancy blue thingy like you Peter!
[URL=http://s135.photobucket.com/user/sjkeysj/media/Airstream/IMG_20151206_131708745_zpskb9rlvir.jpg.html]
Steve, I'm betting some PO replaced the original Isolator with the solenoid. The solenoid was how things were done on earlier motorhomes. This is the one I purchased for my Argosy. Probably overkill but the one I found was about half of what this one is listed for. Shop around and I'm sure you'll find a similar deal.

I'd have to say your 345 is certainly keeping you busy lately!

Brad
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Old 12-08-2015, 09:15 PM   #1515
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Thanks Brad...
I have no idea what that does compared with my little tin pot thingy, I will add it to my list... Page 127...

My Birthday today, so I allowed myself a day off... well, after I did some measuring and prelim cutting of the MLV for the doghouse.

I did get my Holley FPR and gauge tho, so will need to figure out where it will go.
It says in the instructions that its not for use with a mechanical pump...
But since my system pressure is running 8psi with the mech and electric pump, I think it should work!
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Old 12-09-2015, 08:31 PM   #1516
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Progress.
Spent an hour at HD collecting fittings to get my Holley FPR ready for mounting.
This is what I came up with.



Which looks like this.



That done, I managed to pull off the drivers side banks headers.



They will get a makeover, fresh gaskets and an O2 bung in preparation for my Innovate Fuel/Air gauge.

The "EFE/Heat Riser" looks in grim shape, but surprisingly, it works, so I will give it some love too, and refit it. They are NLA or ridiculous prices!
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Old 12-09-2015, 08:41 PM   #1517
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Quote:
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They will get a makeover, fresh gaskets and an O2 bung in preparation for my Innovate Fuel/Air gauge.
That O2 sensor can only go just before the heater riser, right ??
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Old 12-09-2015, 09:19 PM   #1518
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I am planning to put it in the upper side of the header collector about where #3 cylinder comes in.

Photobucket was playing me up tonight...
here is the missing pic of the FPR assembly.
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Old 12-10-2015, 06:09 AM   #1519
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Quote:
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I am planning to put it in the upper side of the header collector about where #3 cylinder comes in.

Photobucket was playing me up tonight...
here is the missing pic of the FPR assembly.
Ok, got it. Despite the fact that the temp will not be the same as it would be closer to head, you want to be able to sample all the cylinders on that side of the engine, which would really come into play when you use the O2 sensor for an EFI. I have read that the upper side of the exhaust pipe just passed the header collector is a good place.

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Old 12-10-2015, 11:48 AM   #1520
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The info says, in the collector, on the top facing down, so condensation will not pool in the sensor.
The word is that mounted as remotely as this is, it needs to be a heated 02 to work correctly, which might well be important for if I go with the TBI upgrade. Planning on putting a bung in the pass side header for that.

One thing I did do yesterday, was take off the noisey "flex Fan".
i have a Viscous coupling and 7 blade fan that was on my '87 Suburban, so will be mounting that tomorrow when I have the correct bolts.


This is what I will paint the headers with.


Also tried to mount the Smog Pump but didnt have the correct bolts.

This meant I had to remove the front closing panel, which will be getting some love... The scoop for the HVAC sytem is a cracked ABS mess, and will need a rework. I think a sheet aluminum folded scoop is coming.

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