'74 Argosy 20' Motorhome restoration/rebuild

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

Looks like they are different animals, the tunnel shield I referred to is also a max heat shield material (1750F), whereas the one you have seems to be more of a sound barrier.

I found this to be interesting (and yes very expensive!)
http://designengineering.com/product...ing-materials/

Ok, that makes sense. Now I'm thinking it might not be a bad idea to cover the wheel well enclosures with the same stuff I'm using on the generator enclosure. If it drops the road noise some it would be worth it.

I wonder how well that spray on boom mat would work on the plastic doghouse covers?

[bkahler]

The generator cover is installed

The flanges were sealed with Tempro 635 and the cover is held in place with 3/16 stainless rivets. Back in 2008 I bought a Harbor Freight air riveter and today was the first time I used it. It really made quick work of the stainless rivets! I'm not sure why I haven't tried using it previously but I'm glad I put it to work today.




Brad

[bkahler]

Cut the curves for the wheel arch trim on the steel wheel well covers. The wheel well covers have now been fitted, all the holes drilled and they are ready to install. However until the Coosa board is installed in the back corners the covers can't be installed. Putting the Argosy back together is kinda like a jig saw puzzle!



The back corners are now insulated and I'm ready to cut and install the corner Coosa boards, just need to figure out what blades to use in my jig saw.



Hey Tony, any recommendations on blades for my jig saw?


Brad

[mayco]

Really nice work Brad, that looks great. I bought one of those pneumatic rivet guns a couple years ago. Ive used it a few times, works very well and makes for quick work when shooting lots of rivets. Good to here it works on stainless rivets.

[Isuzusweet]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Hey Tony, any recommendations on blades for my jig saw?


Brad

PM sent; any wood cutting blades will do, just adjust jigsaw blade angle until desired speed and cleanest of cut is found.........

Use cardboard as your template, also find center line of coach first and square back line in order to start measuring from. If you take the time to make sure the first piece of flooring is square and centered to the coach, the rest of the flooring and all measurements taken off the flooring will make the rest of the project a lot easier.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Isuzusweet

PM sent; any wood cutting blades will do, just adjust jigsaw blade angle until desired speed and cleanest of cut is found.........

Just finished cutting and fitting the two corner pieces. I was surprised at how easily it cut and how little dust was generated. I was expecting a lot worse

Use cardboard as your template, also find center line of coach first and square back line in order to start measuring from. If you take the time to make sure the first piece of flooring is square and centered to the coach, the rest of the flooring and all measurements taken off the flooring will make the rest of the project a lot easier.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

The floor is being seamed down the center and I'll be snapping a line. Snapping the line might be overkill because there is only one full length sheet front to back!

Here's some pictures to prove it really did happen




The fit was just tight enough that I had to use a block and mallet to get the corners into place. They are just snug enough that I'm happy with the fit.

Next up is to patch the various small holes in the rest of the aluminum floor skin and then the wheel wells will get installed.

I'd like to say I'm running out of things to do but THAT'S not true

Brad

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bkahler

..

I'd like to say I'm running out of things to do but THAT'S not true

Brad

did you forget any water lines you wanted to run under the floor?

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

did you forget any water lines you wanted to run under the floor?

I had to think about that one for a second.....! I'm sure there are many things I'm forgetting but if I wait until I think of them all I might as well just haul this thing to the scrap yard as I'd never get it done.

I've got a list of what I need to do to drive it and right now water lines aren't on that list

[mayco]

"The floor is being seamed down the center and I'll be snapping a line. Snapping the line might be overkill because there is only one full length sheet front to back!"

Is there already or will you add any blocking under the center seam? May not be necessary if the framing is around 16" oc. H-clips would also work to tie the pieces together. Does Coosa have a strength axis, length ways or side to side?

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by mayco

"The floor is being seamed down the center and I'll be snapping a line. Snapping the line might be overkill because there is only one full length sheet front to back!"

Is there already or will you add any blocking under the center seam? May not be necessary if the framing is around 16" oc. H-clips would also work to tie the pieces together. Does Coosa have a strength axis, length ways or side to side?

Mike, part of what I added is line of tubing down the center of the floor to support the seam between the Coosa sheets.

I can't answer your questions on the strength axis but if I had to guess I would say there is none. The frame isn't 16" on center but I'm hoping I added enough 1"x2" supports where needed.

These two pictures should give you an idea as to how much steel I've added to the floor frame.

[Isuzusweet]

Isn't it nice to add something to your build, that is a quality bit of kit, that you won't have to worry about. Did you go with Bluewater 20 or 26?

I don't think Coosa has a strength axis, as the fibreglass reinforcement is a multi directional matting; plus since the Argosy has foam insulation inbetween the steel support beams, there should be almost no detectable deflection at all.

I'm glad you're becoming a Coosa convert too, and it's not just me anymore.

Sidekick Tony

[bkahler]

Tony, it will be nice not to have to worry about floor rot again

Keep in mind, the foam board insulation will not really provide any support for the Coosa board. On the bottom the insulation is only supported by .040" aluminum sheet. Over the years the rivets holding the aluminum to the bottom of the floor tubing pulled away allowing the insulation to get pushed farther and farther down as you walked on the plywood.

I've added a lot more metal to support the Coosa so I'm hoping rivet popping doesn't happen again.

I'm using Bluewater 20. I couldn't find anyone interested in ordering the 26 so I went with what was available.

Brad

[bkahler]

The job of insulating the floor is complete. This week I'll rivet the wheel well covers in place and then it's time for the balance of the Coosa board to be installed

[mayco]

Looks great Brad, very tight. one of these days I may get more serious about trying to insulate from the bottom on the 310. So much in the way. That's got to make huge a difference in the Argosy.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by mayco

Looks great Brad, very tight. one of these days I may get more serious about trying to insulate from the bottom on the 310. So much in the way. That's got to make huge a difference in the Argosy.

Thanks

I always wondered why Airstream stopped insulating once they started building the Classic's. It would definitely be a challenge to insulate your 310 but it'll give you something to do this winter

[Isuzusweet]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Thanks

I always wondered why Airstream stopped insulating once they started building the Classic's. It would definitely be a challenge to insulate your 310 but it'll give you something to do this winter

At the time, getting 1" rigid insulation was doable, getting 2" rigid foam, maybe not so much.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

[bkahler]

I figured what the heck, might as well finish the wheel wells




Lots of vulkem 116 to hold them in place along with the 3/16" stainless rivets. I sure don't want to be the next person that needs to remove them....

The screw fasteners for the Coosa board should be in tomorrow night so I'm hoping to get a some time during the evenings this week to get the Coosa board installed.

Do you ever feel like you're being watched.......

[martin300662]

LED cats eyes!

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Isuzusweet

At the time, getting 1" rigid insulation was doable, getting 2" rigid foam, maybe not so much.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

Who knows, that might be the reason the Classic's didn't get insulated.

[mayco]

When AS switched from putting the aluminum sheet on the bottom of the floor frame to the top of the frame it must have made it too time consuming to install the insulation. That really sucks. Nothing to hold the insulation in place. I suppose that they flipped the frame over to install the sheet on the Argosy, one more step illiminated in the construction of the classics. But what a huge difference in the final product. Who knows what the numbers will be when you're finished as far as the "R" factor but having SOME INSULATION beats hell out of NO insulation in the floor. I really haven't looked real closely at what it would take to physically piece it in from the bottom. More of a casual glance and WTF. We manage in the winter, but sure would be nice to have at least some of the high traffic areas done.