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Old 07-09-2018, 12:23 PM   #1321
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Your work is looking incredible Brad, just fantastic. Nice to see some things coming together and working, the big payoff! Your battery compartment is beautiful. I don't think anyone has come up with a way to make those compartments water tight. My worst one was the street side rear on the 310, started to get rust through in the corners. I ended up wrapping the entire compartment with a thick grade aluminum and aluminum angle corners. It's worked out well.
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Old 07-09-2018, 01:55 PM   #1322
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Absolutely!
Thanks Mike

The worst one I had on the 310 was the battery box. I'm not convinced it was water as much as it was battery acid that caused the bottom to rust away. The other two compartments seemed to have stayed in relatively good shape.

I'm at least going to try and make the compartment water tight. The odds of that happening are slim but if I don't try then I can't complain when it starts rusting!
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Old 07-10-2018, 02:06 AM   #1323
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Finished up the marker light wiring in the drivers front wheel well today so I decided to see if the headlights worked

Installed the fuses for high and low beams and pulled the headlight switch. I'm happy to say I was rewarded with nice blinding light
Attachment 316206Attachment 316207

The headlights haven't been aimed yet and the front end is on jack stands so the light projection is all wrong. But they work!

Brad
This actually brings up a sore subject.....

Bella's headlights were changed to LED whilst in the US. I was driving quite late in the evening about a week ago, and noticed the lights seemed 'dimmer'. Next day I checked and the LED units are gone. I checked the paperwork from shop for the 'UKization' work (that 'had to' happen on importation) and find I line item 'replacing headlights'. So they took out two almost brand new LED and fitted some standard bulb units, and charged me for the privilege. I contacted the shop and got told that the MOT test station would not pass it with the LEDs, the same MOT test station that said she would not pass passed on emissions, triggering the front end engine rebuild, when I now know the emission test doesn't apply to vehicles of that age!
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Old 07-10-2018, 02:14 AM   #1324
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This actually brings up a sore subject.....

So they took out two almost brand new LED and fitted some standard bulb units, and charged me for the privilege. I contacted the shop and got told that the MOT test station would not pass it with the LEDs,
I bet someone who works in that shop has some almost brand new LED headlights in their vintage vehicle, or you will find them on ebay!
If they really did not pass, they should have at least given them back to you!
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Old 07-10-2018, 04:53 AM   #1325
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This actually brings up a sore subject.....

Bella's headlights were changed to LED whilst in the US. I was driving quite late in the evening about a week ago, and noticed the lights seemed 'dimmer'. Next day I checked and the LED units are gone. I checked the paperwork from shop for the 'UKization' work (that 'had to' happen on importation) and find I line item 'replacing headlights'. So they took out two almost brand new LED and fitted some standard bulb units, and charged me for the privilege. I contacted the shop and got told that the MOT test station would not pass it with the LEDs, the same MOT test station that said she would not pass passed on emissions, triggering the front end engine rebuild, when I now know the emission test doesn't apply to vehicles of that age!
Wow! I realize every country has it's own peculiar laws but this MOT process you have in the UK really takes things to a whole new level. I know on my Triumph cars there were different spec bulbs depending on where the destination country was for shipping. On a right hand drive car I believe the beams have to angle somewhat to the left instead of the right. Could that possibly be why they were replaced?

I guess I might as well buy some regular old bulbs and put them back in Peanut......
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Old 07-10-2018, 05:55 AM   #1326
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There is two strings to this story, both of which are painful!

But another example of how stupid the MOT is first. On the sides of the front valance there is some flat areas for a reflector/light. Last year that area was left blank on Bella and she past the MOT. During the last year I stuck on some reflectors. This year the new shop had to remove the reflector and install additional indicators because blank was fine, but if anything is fitted then they had to be 'blinkers' not reflectors.

Anyway. When driving even a modern right hand drive in Europe we have to fit headlamp converters when driving on the right (https://www.halfords.com/motoring/tr...amp-converters). These cover the part of the lens that cause the dip beam to shine left, and effective make dip beams look down only. The MOT test requires height/centering/spot size of high beams to be adjusted and checked, and subsequent low beam to be a fixed height (lower) and away from on-coming traffic. Bella would at thata point have needed new lenses....not different bulbs, the shop changed both.

The second string is since May 2018 both Bella and now Peanut are MOT except; their lights dont need to be functionally tested (even if they would fail if they were), so I could put exactly the same original lights in Bella and now it wouldn't matter!
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Old 07-10-2018, 11:37 AM   #1327
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Gotta love bureaucracy

At least now you can put LEDs back in if you like without worrying about them being removed again. I really like the LED headlights I put in my Ranger and F250. They make such a huge difference. As my eyes have aged having more light does make a difference.
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Old 07-10-2018, 12:02 PM   #1328
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Do you have details of the buckets, lenses and lamps you used Brad?
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Old 07-10-2018, 01:05 PM   #1329
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Do you have details of the buckets, lenses and lamps you used Brad?
I think these are the Cree 30w H4 bulbs that I used but the auction mentions green light" which mine are not. I'll keep looking to see if I can find the same ones that I used. In this case size does matter and some of these Cree lights are to big to fit.

These look closer to what I bought. Cree 30w H4 bulbs 6000LM.

I used these 55 Chevy headlight buckets. They are identical to the original ones in my Argosy with the exception of one small tab that had to be trimmed off.

These are the conversion headlight lens to hold the H4 CREE LED bulbs.

And these are the wire grommets for protecting the wires in and out of the bucket.

I also bought a couple of standard 3 pin sockets to replace the original sockets that were part of the original Argosy wiring harness. If you go the same route I did then you'll need to buy two sockets because of how things fit together inside the buckets.

Here's the post where I show the pieces and parts as I put them together.
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Old 07-15-2018, 01:50 PM   #1330
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Another major obstacle is out of the way today. I managed to get the dash top set back in place, hopefully for the last time.

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I still have a little shimming to do and a few screws to install but that's about it for the dash top. Next up is getting the instrument panel installed.
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Old 07-15-2018, 02:44 PM   #1331
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Another major obstacle is out of the way today. I managed to get the dash top set back in place, hopefully for the last time.

You make me laugh
You should have put inline molex or similar connectors for all the dash wires now, it will save you from doing it next time
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Old 07-15-2018, 04:34 PM   #1332
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You make me laugh
You should have put inline molex or similar connectors for all the dash wires now, it will save you from doing it next time
Wayne, I tried to use Molex connectors!!

I used marine grade wire which has insulation that is slightly thicker. I couldn't get the wire to crimp properly in the pins. I finally gave up and went this route:
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Not as fast as Molex connectors but a lot better than crimp connectors.
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Old 07-15-2018, 05:14 PM   #1333
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Wow! I realize every country has it's own peculiar laws but this MOT process you have in the UK really takes things to a whole new level.
Hang on a second mate before being the proverbial pot calling the kettle black. It was the US government that squashed Citroens steering wheel controlled headlamps; took years before Euro spec headlamps were allowed in NA; required MG/Austin to put wooden blocks under their suspensions to raise the ride height to new US specs; I could go on.

Pretty well any sort of technology that was invented outside the USA was deemed witchcraft by US congress.....including the incredible Canadian invention of the Robertson screw; doesn't fall off if held at a 90 degree angle and is resistant to stripping out. It wasn't until the patent ran out that the Robertson square drive screw has become available in the USA, (although not called Robertson).

Cheers
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Old 07-15-2018, 07:33 PM   #1334
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One very sweet dashboard Brad.

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Old 07-15-2018, 07:41 PM   #1335
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Another major obstacle is out of the way today. I managed to get the dash top set back in place

Brad! That is AMAZING!! I was just looking at radios/gps/backup camera today.. trying to figure out where it can go.. ?! I see where your radio is going, external gps? Camera? Where did you get the top dashboard? I was thinking of covering with marine vinyl.
Also the gauges? (I know you told me in the past)
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Old 07-16-2018, 02:24 AM   #1336
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Wayne, I tried to use Molex connectors!!

I used marine grade wire which has insulation that is slightly thicker. I couldn't get the wire to crimp properly in the pins. I finally gave up and went this route:

Not as fast as Molex connectors but a lot better than crimp connectors.
That is a lot better than wire nutZ!

My connectors are something I found as surplus and can handle up to 12 gauge wire. The pins are gold and one problem is that to get more would cost a fortune unless I can find another surplus lot.

When I can, I solder connections instead of crimping them. I have seen marginally crimped wires pull out or become resistive due to oxidation. If the insulation wont fit the crimp, I strip a bit more insulation from the wire and solder both crimp areas of the pin.
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:03 AM   #1337
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That is a lot better than wire nutZ!
My biggest complaint about the connectors I'm using is their overall size. Still, like you said it's a lot better wire nutz.

Quote:
My connectors are something I found as surplus and can handle up to 12 gauge wire. The pins are gold and one problem is that to get more would cost a fortune unless I can find another surplus lot.
Something like that would have worked, I just didn't have the time or energy to look at all the surplus sites hoping to find the needle in the hay stack!

Quote:
When I can, I solder connections instead of crimping them. I have seen marginally crimped wires pull out or become resistive due to oxidation. If the insulation wont fit the crimp, I strip a bit more insulation from the wire and solder both crimp areas of the pin.
All of the connections that I've done have been crimped, then soldered and covered with shrink tubing. That process has definitely lengthened the amount of time it's taken to complete the chassis wiring. So far I have over 100 hours just in running wires for the chassis and making the connections. That doesn't include hours for finding everything, or any design/layout work that needed to be done. I've got a whole lot more hours invested on the electrical side of this project than I ever figured on
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:11 AM   #1338
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Brad! That is AMAZING!! I was just looking at radios/gps/backup camera today.. trying to figure out where it can go.. ?! I see where your radio is going, external gps? Camera? Where did you get the top dashboard? I was thinking of covering with marine vinyl.
Also the gauges? (I know you told me in the past)
The radio has a flip up 7" diagonal screen that displays the gps map. It also has a camera input for the reverse/backup camera. The dash top is the original dash top that came in the Argosy. It is the 74 to 76 style. Yours has the 77 to around 81(ish) style.

The gauges are the same gauges used in the 83/84 and later Classic motorhomes. I just spent time watching ebay for the ones I needed. A couple of the gauges like the fuel pressure and O2 aren't made by Teleflex because they aren't available in the Teleflex series.

I've been trying to figure out what to do about Peanut's dash and instruments but so far I haven't come up with any great ideas. The only one that seems to make sense so far is to fabricate a new face panel similar to how I did mine using Front Panel Designer and then having them make it. I suppose the benefit of going that route is once it's designed anyone can have a panel made from the drawing.
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:17 AM   #1339
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Hang on a second mate before being the proverbial pot calling the kettle black. It was the US government that squashed Citroens steering wheel controlled headlamps; took years before Euro spec headlamps were allowed in NA; required MG/Austin to put wooden blocks under their suspensions to raise the ride height to new US specs; I could go on.

Pretty well any sort of technology that was invented outside the USA was deemed witchcraft by US congress.....including the incredible Canadian invention of the Robertson screw; doesn't fall off if held at a 90 degree angle and is resistant to stripping out. It wasn't until the patent ran out that the Robertson square drive screw has become available in the USA, (although not called Robertson).

Cheers
Sidekick Tony
Getting sensitive on me Tony?!

Every country has laws that are supposed to protect it's intellectual property. I don't have a problem with that.

What I don't like are laws designed to generate income for a select group and then manged and regulated at the whim of the individual doing the inspecting. That sort of thing drivers me bonkers!
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:21 AM   #1340
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One very sweet dashboard Brad.

Sidekick Tony
If you want to use the drawing I'd first like to make a couple of tweaks to it. I need to reduce the height and width by about 1/8" or so and the holes for the gauges need to be enlarged slightly. Other than those dimensions it seemed to fit my dash rather well.
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