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Old 07-09-2017, 05:45 PM   #1061
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Interesting! Your wheel wells are preformed plastic? like out of a step van? My 310 and probably yours is a simple square 6" high steel box.

You do have a fair ways to go, interior wise that is. I hate to tell you this but building my cabinets took way longer than anticipated, as their construction was unconventional, to say the least. No floors, bottoms, backs or tops (the counter top is the top of the cabinet).

Have fun!

Cheers
Tony
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Old 07-10-2017, 06:20 AM   #1062
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Interesting! Your wheel wells are preformed plastic? like out of a step van? My 310 and probably yours is a simple square 6" high steel box.
I never looked at the 310 wheel wells. The trailers of same era as my Argosy also had ABS plastic wheel wells. Other than some cracks on the flanges they appear to be in good shape. A little ABS repair and it should be good to go. That is once I figure out how to get it out of there!

Quote:
You do have a fair ways to go, interior wise that is. I hate to tell you this but building my cabinets took way longer than anticipated, as their construction was unconventional, to say the least. No floors, bottoms, backs or tops (the counter top is the top of the cabinet).
Yeah, the interior will be a complete redo

I plan on fabricating some of the interior myself like the bed frames but on the cabinets I will likely take the work to a local cabinet shop. I'm hoping that will also help keep things moving since I can continue with other work while waiting for cabinets. And don't forget, you have 11 more feet of cabinetry than I do

Brad
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Old 07-15-2017, 05:32 PM   #1063
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I'm now going full speed ahead with the wood floor replacement. I had originally thought that would be work for this winter but since the rotted steel tubing is hindering my ability to get the left side storage compartment done I guess it's time.

So today I spent about 7 hours removing the interior generator cover, the water tank, right side wheel well cover and the rest of the wood flooring.

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One interesting thing I noted after pulling the water tank is it appears to be a replacement unit. It has a shipping label on it from the Argosy factory in Versailles Ohio to an RV dealer in Auburn Maine. Maine is where the Argosy was sold when new so I'm assuming whoever put the rear gas tank in damaged the water tank and it had to be replaced.
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Here's a good shot of just how bad the rust is in places. Looking it over I don't think it's going to be that difficult to replace, just time consuming.
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Apparently Airstream goofed up when they were laying out where to put the filler neck for the gas tank. They performed somewhat of a hack job to get the 1"x2" tubing to fit right. I'll be reworking this area as well.
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I have a feeling it won't be long and I'll be using the tools that Gregsch loaned me for cleaning the wood remnants out of the bottom track
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As mentioned previously the wheel well covers made of ABS. The drivers side had a lot of cracks and I'm thinking that the cracks helped create the rotted area on the left side. I debating on whether to have steel wheel well covers fabricated in place of the ABS pieces. Right now I'm leaning towards steel.


Brad
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Old 07-18-2017, 10:11 AM   #1064
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Brad
Nice work on the storage compartment alterations.
I was getting ready to do the same thing to make room for taller batteries. Then I found some shorter batteries that were only $800 . $800 looked cheap compared to doing all that work and your posts confirmed my suspicion..
Keep up the good work you are going to have a beautiful coach before you know it.
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Old 07-18-2017, 12:40 PM   #1065
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Greg, the storage compartment mods actually ended up being easier than I expected. What threw the wrench in the works was the poor condition of the floor framework

I should know in a few weeks just how good those flooring tools work that you sent me! I'm not exactly looking forward to using them but I guess it's the "Next Big Thing" I have to deal with

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 08-07-2017, 12:28 PM   #1066
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Since we got talking about interiors over on my thread, have you got your interior floor plan pretty well mapped out Brad?
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Old 08-07-2017, 12:32 PM   #1067
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If you don't, I do know a wood butcher that did a passable job with his 310 that could give you a hand with methods and materials.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 08-08-2017, 08:07 AM   #1068
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Since we got talking about interiors over on my thread, have you got your interior floor plan pretty well mapped out Brad?
For the most part yes. I'm pretty much going to plagiarize Martin's Bella with a few minor exceptions

The bulk of the differences will be not having Vista View windows and I will likely have one overhead storage compartment. I am going to try to leave the fridge in its original location to make use of the roof vent. Where he has the small cabinet between the twin beds I might have to do something different depending on what I end up doing with the generator enclosure. Other than the above the overall floor plan will be like Bella's.

Once the floor has been repaired I'm hoping to be able to nail down the overall floor plan this winter and start coming up with actual cabinet dimensions.

Brad
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Old 08-08-2017, 08:09 AM   #1069
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Originally Posted by Isuzusweet View Post
If you don't, I do know a wood butcher that did a passable job with his 310 that could give you a hand with methods and materials.

Cheers
Tony
My plans included bouncing ideas off of you and Mike. I believe in dealing with experts whenever I can
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Old 08-28-2017, 09:40 AM   #1070
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Just a quick update. I haven't really worked on the Argosy for probably a month now. I've been concentrating on getting the TR6 completed so the body tub can be placed back on the chassis. By this coming weekend the TR6 chassis should be on wheels ready to accept the tub. At that point I'll start doing some work on the Argosy floors again.

One thing I did accomplish this morning for the Argosy was obtaining the Fire Marshal inspection. It failed the inspection which is not surprising as it's missing almost everything he was supposed to inspect! However he did issue his report and inspection sticker and if I understand the process correctly I can now get the Sheriffs inspection and then I can apply for a Kentucky title and license plates. At least I'm one step closer to being able to drive it

Brad
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Old 09-16-2017, 09:27 AM   #1071
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Not much happening on the Argosy lately. I've been tied up trying to get my TR6 to the rolling chassis stage in preparation for setting the body in place.

Well today I finally have a rolling chassis so with luck in a couple of weeks Ernie will be done with the body and we can set it in place. Once that's done then it's back to working on the Argosy and Peanut

Brad

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Old 09-16-2017, 09:31 AM   #1072
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Looking great Brad! 😀
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Old 09-16-2017, 09:55 AM   #1073
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How can you resist finding a suitable crate to sit on, firing her up, and blasting up and down the drive Brad?
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Old 09-16-2017, 10:30 AM   #1074
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How can you resist finding a suitable crate to sit on, firing her up, and blasting up and down the drive Brad?
Believe me, that thought has cross my mind a time or two!

Lack of brakes and a whole lot of wiring would need to be done to make that happen so I'm just going to bite the bullet and wait

Restoring the TR6 is SO much easier than any of the repair work I've been doing on the Argosy. With the TR6 I can pick up a catalog from any of four or five vendors and order just about any part that I want. Try doing that with an Argosy! The TR6 is more of an assemble by numbers project.


Brad
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Old 09-30-2017, 02:03 PM   #1075
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The last three weeks or so I've been pecking away at repairing the floor framework due to severe rust in various places. I started on the simplest repair first which was the passenger side rear of the wheel well. The 1"x2" tubing was rusted through in several places. Starting on this section let me get a feel for just how much work I was getting myself into! The work entailed cutting out the old section and welding in a new one.

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If you're wondering why the above weld looks so jagged it's because the top edge of the metal was badly rusted and I had to follow the line of good metal when I was welding it to the new cross tube.

I then moved over to the drivers side and tackled the three rusted sections in front of the rear wheel wall. This repair was a little more difficult but manageable. For the most part it was pretty straight forward.

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I was now ready to tackle the worst area hit by rust. The left rear corner behind the rear wheel well had four pieces of tubing that needed to be replaced and they all had to fit right for the frame to be right to support the shell. I spent some extra time sorting through the angles involved but in the end I manged to get everything to fit right

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I then moved over to the opening in the floor where the fuel tank filler hose passes through the floor. You can see in the top right area of the picture below that a mistake must have been made when the floor grid was being laid out. The original arangement had a 1"x2" tube passing right under where the filler hose needed to go. The mistake must not have been found until after the shell was in place on the chassis because it's pretty obvious the small section of tube was added from above and then a cutting torch was used to create an opening for the filler hose.

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I reworked the opening which also added some strength in the area. Due to where the was the tubing was cut there was very little strength. That problems solved.

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The last thing I did was to cut a notch in the piece of tubing that formed the generator compartment. After installing the generator a while back I realized that the bottom end of the generator was close to the framework, a 1/4" if I remember right. I wasn't comfortable with that close of tolerance so I notched the tubing to allow for more clearance. Considering the rubber generator mounts always deteriorate I felt it best to get that extra gap now before it became a problem now.

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Next on the list is to added a 1"x2" tube down the center from front to back to provide support for the wood flooring. The wood is going to be seamed down the center so adding the tube will provide a lot of support.

After that I will use a wire wheel to remove as much rust and scale as I can so the tubing can be painted.

Brad
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Old 10-01-2017, 02:08 AM   #1076
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Next on the list is to added a 1"x2" tube down the center from front to back to provide support for the wood flooring. The wood is going to be seamed down the center so adding the tube will provide a lot of support.


Brad
This is a really good idea Brad, and one of those 'with hindsight' moments where I should have had that done to Bella. Now there is a slight spring from the unsupported ply, right down the center isle where you walk....
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Old 10-01-2017, 05:55 AM   #1077
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Does Bella have a plywood seam down the center of the walk way?

I just found another difference between the Classics and the Argosies. On the Argosy models the floor grid has the 1"x2" tubing laid out flat with the height being 1" on 24" centers. On the 86 345 that I dismantled I was surprised to see that the tubing was on edge with the height now being 2" and they are spaced about 16" apart. Not only does this make for a stronger floor it also sets the floor height 1" higher.

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I need to go look at Peanut to see what the floor tubing orientation is.

Brad
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Old 10-01-2017, 08:03 AM   #1078
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So Bella's frame was all new fab.

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With the 2x1" vertical and with a new belly pan and insulation.

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Then the ply was laid width-ways, so there is no center seam but the gap between members in the center is quite big for the thickness of ply. If doing again I would have short sections (between the cross members) to support the ply in the center.
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:33 AM   #1079
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Wow, when they built your frame they did you a big favor in that the tubing is on edge instead of laying flat like the factory did it. That adds a tremendous amount of strength into the shell.

If they laid the plywood width wise how did they get the edges of the ply under into the track at the bottom of the shell?
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Old 10-01-2017, 12:57 PM   #1080
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Hmmm......I have no idea Brad.

I had assumed the channel was just formed by the gap between the frame and the lower section of the body, so was formed when the body was reattached!
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