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pteck · 07-07-2017, 10:19 AM

I have a new to me 2007 27FB Ocean Breeze.

I'm in the process of testing and baselining all equipment.

How do I identify what A/C unit I have installed, and whether it is a 13.5k or 15k, and any heatpump?

From within the trailer, I can see that a label inside the vents - Duo-Therm 3106615, but I think this only identifies the interior cover?

vintagemotor · 07-07-2017, 10:49 AM

Your looking for the ID tag on the roof unit, sometimes it is visible without removing the top cover(outside on the roof, only walk on the seams or you will cause dents), sometimes not. This tag will have all the info you need.

uncle_bob · 07-07-2017, 10:55 AM

Hi

Are you concerned that the unit has been swapped out for a non-standard unit? That would be fairly rare on a 2007. If not, all of the factory data sheets are still online.

Bob

sheriff1 · 07-07-2017, 12:49 PM

I have the same question for our 2014 FC 30' with dual AC and 50 amp. The parts list shows both 13.5 and 15. Short of roof top is there anyway to tell?

switz · 07-07-2017, 12:59 PM

Typically in dual A/C installations (or 50 amp service) the 15K unit is in front and the 13.5K unit is in the rear of the coach.

sheriff1 · 07-07-2017, 01:01 PM

Thanks!

pteck · 07-07-2017, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

Are you concerned that the unit has been swapped out for a non-standard unit? That would be fairly rare on a 2007. If not, all of the factory data sheets are still online.

Bob

Ah, I haven't utilized this resource yet. Do you have a link to get at it? Do I just need my VIN?

uncle_bob · 07-08-2017, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pteck

Ah, I haven't utilized this resource yet. Do you have a link to get at it? Do I just need my VIN?

Hi

Owners manuals, parts lists, and original sales descriptions are all on line with no major hassle involved. I believe there is a way to send your VIN to Jackson Center and have them email you back the "Window sticker" data for your trailer. Mine is new so I've never gone down that route.

Bob

pteck · 07-10-2017, 05:46 PM

Found the original window sticker. Though it gives nothing more than Domestic 13500. Pretty sure without heat pump.

Also climbed on the roof. Didn't see the sticker but did open the cover. Found a crack in the leading edge if the cover which I'll fix once I get the easy start to install.

Wondering if I shouldn't take this chance to maybe upgrading to a new 15k penguin? Though I'm also reading that the new ones use a less efficient refrigerant and are possibly noisier. Hrmmm.

AWCHIEF · 07-10-2017, 05:53 PM

Precision, I have a new Penquin II with heat pump. It is noticeably quieter than the previous Penguin I had. Also it had very tame start up. No bang like the old one.

fran&frank · 07-10-2017, 06:12 PM

On my 2016 FC 27 FB if you pull off the return vent under each of the AC units their is a sticker on the underside of the unit with all the details.

**jcanavera** · 07-10-2017, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pteck

Found the original window sticker. Though it gives nothing more than Domestic 13500. Pretty sure without heat pump.

Also climbed on the roof. Didn't see the sticker but did open the cover. Found a crack in the leading edge if the cover which I'll fix once I get the easy start to install.

Wondering if I shouldn't take this chance to maybe upgrading to a new 15k penguin? Though I'm also reading that the new ones use a less efficient refrigerant and are possibly noisier. Hrmmm.

I had a 2001 27' Safari with the 13.5k air conditioner and I found it marginal once you got into the mid 90's with full sun. This was one of the reasons when I bought my 2004 that I ordered it to come with the 15k unit. Not had any cooling issues. You could go with a 15k unit but that is somewhat contingent upon where the bulk of your summer camping is done. For my locale in Missouri 15k is more that adequate. If you have too large a unit, it will quick cycle which will leave you with higher humidities in the trailer. Sort of that cold and clammy feeling. Having the proper amount of compressor run time is necessary to pull humidity out of the air. Too short run times (if the compressor is too big) will not adequately pull enough humidity out of the air.

Jack

uncle_bob · 07-11-2017, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcanavera

I had a 2001 27' Safari with the 13.5k air conditioner and I found it marginal once you got into the mid 90's with full sun. This was one of the reasons when I bought my 2004 that I ordered it to come with the 15k unit. Not had any cooling issues. You could go with a 15k unit but that is somewhat contingent upon where the bulk of your summer camping is done. For my locale in Missouri 15k is more that adequate. If you have too large a unit, it will quick cycle which will leave you with higher humidities in the trailer. Sort of that cold and clammy feeling. Having the proper amount of compressor run time is necessary to pull humidity out of the air. Too short run times (if the compressor is too big) will not adequately pull enough humidity out of the air.

Jack

Hi

Dead on about the humidity. Some recommend a 5 or 6K BTU teamed up with a 13 o 15K for that reason. It takes a fairly "interesting" control setup to get it going on full auto. If you know what's going on, it is not super hard to fiddle manually.

Bob

switz · 07-11-2017, 10:34 AM

The 13,500 BTU unit on our 2015 23D International Serenity will run continuously for extended periods of time even with the three awnings deployed. The unit is exposed to the full midday sun so it works hard to keep temps around 78 or 79 degrees.

pteck · 07-11-2017, 11:14 PM

Sure sounds like a 13.5k is undersized in general for a 27FB if camping under hot weather.

An academic question, but I wonder if the ducted units have any advantage or the sheer BTU's still makes it inadequate for the larger volume.

switz · 07-12-2017, 12:14 AM

A lot of the "cooling air" in the ducted systems is cooling the duct first. At least with the self contained systems of old, all of the cooling air output is inside the trailer body cooling the insides of the trailer.

pteck · 07-12-2017, 08:05 AM

Makes sense. I'd imagine the ductwork would have to be insulated inside and out to avoid condensation issues.

My curiosity is whether the ducts better engage the volume of air in the trailer rather than just the local air volume beneath the unit, such that the compressor remains running rather than kicking on/off.

**jcanavera** · 07-12-2017, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pteck

Sure sounds like a 13.5k is undersized in general for a 27FB if camping under hot weather.

An academic question, but I wonder if the ducted units have any advantage or the sheer BTU's still makes it inadequate for the larger volume.

Dealer told me that the ducted units haven a more distributed air flow, it takes them longer however, to cool the trailer down when you first start up.

Jack

uncle_bob · 07-13-2017, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pteck

Sure sounds like a 13.5k is undersized in general for a 27FB if camping under hot weather.

An academic question, but I wonder if the ducted units have any advantage or the sheer BTU's still makes it inadequate for the larger volume.

Hi

Unless the manufacturers are lying, 13,500 BTU is 13,500 BTU. One will *cool* just as well as another one. What setup A may not do as quick as setup B is pull the humidity down. Cold and clammy is a lot less comfortable for most people that a bit warmer but dry.

Ducts have pretty minor impact on cooling capacity. They *do* change how the air moves around in the trailer. Set them wrong or plug them up and things get wonky in a hurry.

One often neglected item in all this is: the thermostat is over there !!! Running full blast is one thing. The thermostat placement likely has no big impact on that. Once things throttle back, the thermostat placement and it's internal settings (hysteresis) have a big impact on what happens. Point a duct vent at the thermostat and things go crazy yet again. With my setup, turn on the television and watch things go nuts (thermostat over the TV ...).

Crazy stuff !!

Bob

switz · 07-13-2017, 11:31 AM

In most Airstreams, the thermostat could be installed on the refrigerator wall. The hole in the wall for the wiring to get to the thermostat also let the ambient air into the back of the thermostat. Thus when cooling in the summer, the hot air around the refrigerator is influencing the A/C cycles and the reverse is true for the winter.

So while we had the refrigerator out of both trailers, we dismounted the thermostats and but a Hickory wood board on the wall and filled the wire hole with caulking. Now when the thermostat was replaced it was insulated from what was going on in the refrigerator compartment in terms of transmission of heat or cold into the thermostat frame or bi-metal temperature sensing strip.