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Old 07-24-2014, 05:54 PM   #197
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Did a but of reflectix installation yesterday. Went pretty quickly overall. THEN I realized I had forgot about the 1/2 inch of required dead airspace. Hopefully the 3M spray adhesive I used on a few of the ceiling pieces is forgiving. Going to goto Lowes or HD and buy some 1/2 foam to cut into strips and glue to the wall. My original plan was 1 layer of reflectix and then pink fiberglass to fill. Given the 1/2 inch air gap that doesn't leave a lot of room. Would 1 inch of pink fiberglass be all that effective? Many forum posts had people doing 2 layers of reflectix.

Tonight I am pulling out the first of the 6 floor sections and epoxying the edges. I only have a quart of epoxy hardener included so I don think I will get through all 6 even if I only do the outside edges and not the adjoining sections.




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Old 07-24-2014, 07:44 PM   #198
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Why are you using the pink stuff? I would use the reflectix foam board then a second layer of reflectix. That is just me though!
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Old 07-24-2014, 08:24 PM   #199
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You know, that pink stuff helps with noise quite a bit.

I think it makes a difference when I park my trailer mere yards off of busy highway 70 in Las Cruces.


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Old 07-25-2014, 03:13 AM   #200
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Noise reduction is a good thing and I was just wondering thanks for the info! I swore off the batting a while ago but that is just me I also quit jumping out of perfectly good airplanes and leaping into the ocean from a helo! It's all good !
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:03 AM   #201
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I was going to move to more modern insulation when I built my trailer. I was set on getting the trailer spray foamed but I couldn't find a contractor who would talk to me about spraying a trailer so I just used Fiberglass.

The stuff I took out was still basically perfect after 40 years so I figured it would outlive me this time.

It was cheap, quick, and available so I used it.


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Old 07-25-2014, 08:43 AM   #202
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I would avoid spray foam as it would cause problems later if you need to repair/ modified remove any thing on the shell.
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:53 AM   #203
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

I agree.

In the end I was glad no one would come out to spray my trailer. It was hard enough dealing with the fiberglass.


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Old 07-25-2014, 10:33 AM   #204
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So guys, 1/2 foam spacers then 1 layer of reflectix then fiberglass batting to fill to the interior skins. Good plan? I would split some 3.5 in thick insulation in half so 1.75 inches compressed into about 1 inch. Would this defeat the point? They also sell 2 inch thick I could split to 1 inch perhaps a better plan.


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Old 07-25-2014, 11:27 AM   #205
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Oooor you could get some......I am no insulation expert or even really good at it, so I say give it a try and see how it works! If you have the time do the mythbuster thing and make a mock box put a thermometer in it pack ice first on the outside of the box check temp then use hot rags and check again! The kids would love it!
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:45 PM   #206
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I think the spacers will work.


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Old 08-04-2014, 07:20 PM   #207
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Ok got some more insulation in, still not sure whether to go win two layers of reflectix with 1/2" spacers or just 1 layer then 1" of fiberglass. Feedback welcomed


Got another sheet of flooring epoxied tonight, learned a few things as well. I used system 3 2-part structural epoxy for my edges. This stuff is THICK, even at 80 degrees outside. I can't imagine it when it's cold. Anyways I applied is to the outside edges top and bottom about 4 inches in or so. I would do more but this stuff is pricey and this is the critical zone for coverage IMO. The good part about this system 3 epoxy is that it provides a nice build that will stand up to some punishment and really seal out any incoming water quite well.

This is only my second floor section to epoxy so far, and on this one I remembered that I had a RotFix kit I bought back when I thought all the trailer needed was some curtains and new floors (ahh those were the days!). This penetrating epoxy is much thinner and I took it and applied it further inboard to around 12 inches on top and 6 on bottom, it covered quite well and will I hope provide some extra protection just in case water penetrates further into the shell.

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Yes, 'GASP' it's OSB what are you thinking! Let's all hope for my sake that Advantech lives up to its 50 year guarantee.

On that note for all interested parties I will be putting a piece of my flooring and submerging it in water for the next few months outside in the Florida heat. Let's see how the Advantech holds up . If I can scrounge up some other types of ply I will add them to the test. I know I have some exterior grade ply but it might be cheap sheathing. Any suggestions I can raid the HD scrap bin and add them to the submersion test. Maybe partial submersion would be better? Allow saturation but better support fungal growth? Ideas?




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Old 08-05-2014, 04:41 AM   #208
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As for the fifty year thing or the lifetime warrantee I tried to file on my linoleum and they samsonite said it was the installers responsibility and the installer said that they had no such thing and it was a manufacture thing!!?! Go figure! I will stick with plywood!
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Old 08-06-2014, 12:33 PM   #209
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Talked to the welder today they have started work! Should have it back in about 2 weeks


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Old 08-16-2014, 07:33 PM   #210
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

The prep work continues while I await the return of my new frame. Last week was epoxying the floors. This week opens with repairing some of the damaged older plastic parts. In particular the ABS wheel wells, interior well covers, end caps, etc.


I am using fiberglass cloth and resin for repairs. I have never used these products before, so please excuse if the work looks rough. However pretty much everything will be painted over or hidden so no worries.

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Step 1 was to stop drill all the current cracks in the wheel wells. This is the same technique our mechs use when we get cracks in the airframe of our helicopters.

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My hardener did not come with a predrilled hole but the instructions indicated 10 drops/oz which gives 10 min working time. This is a BIG change from the epoxy I used on the floors which had a several hour working time. Ensure that your glass cloth is precut and don't have too many to do at one time. After brushing directly over the repair site apply the cloth and brush again till the cloth is saturated. I only did 1 layer of cloth as I didn't need much stiffness on the wells. I just finished about 7 small 4-6 inch repair when my resin turned to rock.

My dad has agreed to come down Mid September for a week to help on the AS. That week will be full court press to install floors, underfloor insulation, tanks, belly skin, and then get the body reattached. Lots of people on the forums doing great work, if anyone hasn't subscribed to "I tried to remove my shower pan, please help" , you should! It's a good read and Marco is hard at work getting that GT back into working order


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