Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

[newas4mark]

I have been enjoying your thread since I bought my 68 Sovereign of the Road 7/4714 anticipating my own shell off. I have mine gutted but for the bathtub, toilet, and bathroom sink....please keep posting your progress. It is inspiring!


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[mayco]

Ive been watching since you started, its been really great to watch your tenacity. You are one heck of hard working and determined son of a gun. Getting that shell back on has to feel like youve reached a real milestone in the project. Im a retired carpenter and my favorite time in the sequence of building a home was when it was framed, sheathed, and the windows n doors installed so it was all closed in. You now have a "shelter" from the storm! Great work man! Just think how much youve learned in the process, great info and example you are passing on to your kiddos.

Time for you to kick it back, have a beer, and look at the great work youve done! (Not for long though, eh!)

[Swahealy]

Matt:
I always thought the belly pan side pieces had to go on first so when the shell was put back into position the shell went on the outside and over the belly pan so you had the outside overlapping the belly pan. Am I wrong? Mine is a '72 Sovereign so it may be different altogether.

[millertimeUS]

Originally Posted by Swahealy

Matt:
I always thought the belly pan side pieces had to go on first so when the shell was put back into position the shell went on the outside and over the belly pan so you had the outside overlapping the belly pan. Am I wrong? Mine is a '72 Sovereign so it may be different altogether.

No you are correct, I only connected my belly pan along the crossmembers for now. I will get the sides along the main rail where the side wraps attach underneath when I get to that step. Considering ordering some ALCLAD and remaking them since ther edges are pretty corroded.


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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[millertimeUS]

Replacing vent gaskets



Not a complicated maintenance procedure but your vent gaskets need replacing every now and then. Here the vent is already removed and surface cleaned.



In place, I zip tied a small section of screen to keep bugs out of the piping.

After that just screw it back in. I replaced the rusty zinc screws with stainless. Although it didn't seem necessary, it was sealed around the base when I pulled it off, I put a seam of trempro around the base of the vent. Be sure you don't accidentally seal the weep hole near the bottom, that is how all the water that gets in gets out

Also got the front curved section of the trailer bolted down to the frame, 1/4 inch hot dipped bolts every 5 inches.



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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[millertimeUS]

Made some money today! A few days ago I poked my head in the trailer and to my dismay saw several puddles on my new floor. Not happening! My old vents were leaking since the lift and my plumbing vents, removed several weeks ago, were also seeping around the tape I covered the holes with.



The original vent cover, 50 rivets on this baby! I recommend drilling out with an oversized bit to avoid having to pull out rivet pieces. The FV uses screws so those old rivet holes won't be reused.



Once the old vent is out you have to clean up the old sealant and get any rivet pieces out of those old holes. Clean the surface with some denatured alcohol, etc. Don't forget to clean all the sealant inside the trailer also.



My original vents had rounded corners unlike the square shape of the FV, this necessitated some cutting of the roof skin.



Highly recommend these pneumatic nippers. Unlike hand shears it leaves a clean edge, cuts curves easily, and is super quick.



Squarish hole



I had to pre drill a few of the screws as the roof kept flexing away from the mounting flange. I laid a thick bead of Trempro then set the flange in place. It squeezed out nicely and then I used my finger to smooth the bead. Each screw got a bit of trempro also. After that I went inside and smoothed the inside bead. Tip, set something under you fan to catch all the metal shavings and drips of sealant that squeeze through those old rivet holes.

2 fantastic vents in place!


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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[perryg114]

You are going to find that the metal vents you took off were better than the plastic stuff you put back. They will crack at some point.

It would be a good idea to seal those bathroom vent tubes from the inside as well. That black rubber will crack in a year or two and it will leak again soon. I put a bead of Trempro around the tube and left the gasket off and so far so good. Eventually, I will put a cap on the Square TeePee thing so water can't get in there.

Perry

[J. Morgan]

I made an adapter plate that fit on the old vent flange to fit new style vents.

[millertimeUS]

Interesting idea on the adapter, the old vent flange was smaller than the FV so not sure how that would work in this situation.

Great suggestion on sealing inside of the pipe also. I really like those stovepipe looking caps for vent pipes, I have seen some that are aluminum that looked great just not sure where they could be purchased. Another project for another day!

While the plastic flanges may crack someday I wanted the modern upgrade so I guess you take the good with the bad. For the cost you would think FV would use metal flanges.


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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[Cochese]

I bought mine(aluminum " mushroom" type w/ no holes), from Mobile Home Depot . I think they are somewhere in Florida .


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[pbearsailor]

Matt, I've got one of those aluminum mushroom type vents from that place in Florida that is left over from my project. Send me a PM if you want it and I'll send it to you.

cheers,
steve

[perryg114]

Look at Aerowood's thread on his rebuild. He built a custom flange for the Fanstatic vent. Maybe adding some angle around the perimeter under the skin would stiffen it up a little making cracking less of an issue. Also with nothing under the vent it will oil can if someone steps near it. This will most likely cause leaks or cracks in the vent housing.

Perry

[Mixter]

Check this out for the sewer vent caps- I might try these:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f455...ons-82910.html

Looking good Millertime! I cannot believe how fast you're going.... Keep it up, you've just caught up with me, and I'm watching your next steps! I'm getting the itch to get going again now that we are heading for better temperatures.... I dont know how you've been going this hard in this heat and rain.

Mic.

PS- sorry to all that had to witness last nights display of my Buccaneers.....

[perryg114]

Mixter has the right idea. I am going to do something like that when I get time.

Perry

Originally Posted by Mixter

Check this out for the sewer vent caps- I might try these:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f455...ons-82910.html

Looking good Millertime! I cannot believe how fast you're going.... Keep it up, you've just caught up with me, and I'm watching your next steps! I'm getting the itch to get going again now that we are heading for better temperatures.... I dont know how you've been going this hard in this heat and rain.

Mic.

PS- sorry to all that had to witness last nights display of my Buccaneers.....

[millertimeUS]

Steve will shoot you a pm later, thanks!

Mixter I don't know either except that it was 5 straight dedicated days in a row. When you don't have to clean up, put away tools, etc it just goes faster. I swear I felt a breeze yesterday that was almost 'not hot' so perhaps we are close to over the hump with this heat.

Perry I agree those modded vents look great. My trailers, ahem... patina might be better matched without the polish though lol.

Finished the front curve bolt downs yesterday. Drilled out and clecoed the remainder of the body also. Will have her fully bucked in today if all goes to plan




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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[millertimeUS]

Riveted! Had a craftsman over at the house doing some tile work and he agreed to stick around and buck the AS shell back into place. It was a pretty quick process since it was already all drilled and Clecos were in place. I shot Trempro into every hole prior to setting the rivet and bucking it in. I wiped the exterior and left all the squeeze out on the interior.



Before



Bucked in

The bottom of my rear panel, the one right at the rear where the bumper trunk is, was very corroded at the bottom. The new flashing was extra useful here as it provided a lot of backbone to the now brittle lower belt line area of this panel. I would not be confident of the rear without it being there to add strength and rigidity.

Next up is sealing up the inside and all the c channel gaps, etc. Then continue to check for leaks while I finish up electrical.




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[millertimeUS]

Need some guidance on replacing my underbelly wraps. They are pretty corroded along the edges where it sat against the old frame.

On my 76' the gauge appears to be .025 and they are painted a charcoal gray color.

I understand AS sells the metal painted with clear coat, have not found out the cost.

What alloy is appropriate? I have some leftover 5052 from the belly pan but not enough to do nearly them all.

I have a cheap HF paint gun, but what paint color and does it need clearcoat?

does anyone just do plain 2024T3 and skip the paint?

The cost of the paint supplies and my time might make 2024T3 a good option. Is it painted to avoid seeing all the road grime?


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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[J. Morgan]

You are talking about the curved pieces right?

If so, I think it is going to be super hard to try and make the flat aluminum bend that way.

[millertimeUS]

Yes the curved pieces that go under the belly skin and attach up at the rub rail on the sides, not the corner banana wraps. Mine laid flat as soon as I took them off. The thin guage of the metal it would seem they just bend right on up no problem. My banana wraps are in good shape.


Perry recommended aluthane, a water hardened POR15 type product. Otherwise it seems like DuPont 44146A Metallic Gray is the color and would then be clearcoated. Any feedback on alloys for 1976?


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76 'Airstream Tradewind

[J. Morgan]

I have only had the banana wraps off, they are pretty firm, i assumed that the rest would have been similar.

See what happens when I assume?

At least they will be super easy to replace, especially if you have a shop with a shear cut most of them to size.