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Old 05-13-2015, 06:58 AM   #421
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Hello millertime in California. Glad you're settled enough to think about the Trade Wind. I'm sure every free hour is a premium in your busy house.

The Trade Wind is a mid-sized trailer where floor space is a premium. The Globe Trotter has a corner bath that saves floor space. However, it is a above floor black tank. I installed a shower in my 66 Trade Wind. I sure wish I had not "wasted" the floor space on a shower. Maybe an outdoor shower to rinse sandy feet would have been good enough. Most campgrounds have a bath house. My Trade Wind is a twin bed model where "hammocks" could be hung over the beds if the overhead lockers were removed. And my front gaucho makes into a reasonable bed. I have the wall mount flip up table that can serve as a place to eat and play games on a rainy afternoon. I use folding chairs for seating opposite the gaucho. Just ideas that may prompt your thinking.

Designing an interior is much fun. Airstream is very good at small space efficient designs. We walked through some new Airstreams last month and the interiors were very well done in my view. New Airstreams may give you some additional ideas.

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Old 05-14-2015, 10:11 PM   #422
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Thanks David, great suggestions as always!

So tonight I temporarily hooked up the Intellipower converter and did some DC system checks. All looking good so far! I hooked up temporarily a couple of the dual LED overheads that will go in (planning for 3 ,one in front, center, and back), they also look good. I might add in another 2 near the front to ensure adequate light for cooking and meal/entertaining.

So I have one of those great moments in a rebuild when I FINALLY get to power up my new
Fantastic vents. I installed them back in like August and am just now getting to see them in action. I bought 2 of the 6000 series with the rain sensor. So I call out my wife to see.... It's raining for the first time in a month out here in San Diego so isn't thrilled. She walks in looks around at the mess and says "you called me out here for THAT?" I am still standing beside the fan beaming as I demonstrate it's automated opening and closing..... I guess she wasn't as excited as I was lol.

2 more circuits to just confirm good voltage and it's on to paint prep!

Pictures to follow tomorrow perhaps.


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Old 05-28-2015, 09:55 PM   #423
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Ok so I have started painting the interior. After reading many threads I decided on Krylon Fusion, which has proven to work well on the vinyl covered interior walls of our trailers.

I am estimating 25 cans to get good coverage on all the trailer. Keep in mind mine is totally gutted so I am painting everything except the overhead center strip which I am replacing with bare aluminum. Best place to get it appears to be Ace hardware, they can order as much as you want in a few days. Amazon has good prices on 6 packs but they are out of stock.

When painting I put a box fan in the door blowing outward and the overhead vents open. I wear a respirator from Harbor Freight which works great. Expect to get spraypaint dust on everything from the enclosed space,

I have put about 11 cans down and am happy with the results. Coverage is decent and I really like the easy press nozzle and adjustable pattern.

Question for the group on flooring. I am leaning towards Allure Ultra Vinyl Plank flooring. After I finish painting I am thinking floors are next. Should I go wall to wall or leave a 6-12" gap near the edges under cabinets, et for ease of inspecting for leaks?

I would hate for an undetected leak to get under the floor, but with a floating floor not sure if I could leave a gap.


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Old 05-29-2015, 05:55 PM   #424
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Matt, I also used the Allure Vinyl click-together (which hardly ever actually clicks together) and just went up about a quarter inch from the cabinets and stuff. I trimmed it out with 3/4" by 1/16" aluminum angle. My stuff starts at post 25 of this thread. I can still check under most - well, OK, at least a couple - of the cabinets for leaks.
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Old 05-29-2015, 06:43 PM   #425
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I put a click together vinyl floor in my Trade Wind and was somewhat disappointed. I used a click together type as I had good luck with the cork floor in the 86 Limited. But this lock together design was not robust enough to give a solid joint. Further, vinyl has quite a coefficient of expansion, so I get gaps in those weak joints in cold weather. And the vinyl floor was heaver than I expected. I do think it will last a long time.

It is a floating floor. So I would build your cabinets and bulkhead walls first, then lay the floor up to the cabinet with about 1/4" gap to allow for the expansion. You can cut pieces to place under your cabinets if you want. You will use a quarter round or some type of piece to hide the gap.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

David
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Old 06-08-2015, 10:41 PM   #426
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Thanks David, good advice.

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Late night shot, just finished with the krylon fusion in gloss white. Went through 19-20 cans for my
25' trailer. BIG DIFFERENCE!

Will get some day photos soon. Next up is sanding and painting the interior window trim, new screen material, and designing the rear bunks

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Old 06-09-2015, 05:26 AM   #427
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Looking good. What color are you going to do the trim and screens in? I redid the screens with a finish that mimics a silver flake or textured aluminum look and recently redid the front trim around the curved windows. I like a bit of contrast so something different from the white would be my vote. Replacing the screening is easy too, just pick up the roller tool for the spline when you get the new material.





I put down a loose lay vinyl from Shaw. Its designed to go down without glue, though I ended up using some of their adhesive which is fairly benign as far as holding power goes (if you have to pull it up, it wont put up much resistance). Came out pretty nice, time will tell how it does with the change of temps.







Good luck with the rest of the job. I think finishing out the interior is the most fun part. You can really start to see the result of all the hard work.
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Old 06-09-2015, 10:07 AM   #428
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Your trailer is looking very nice! I will keep thinking on the flooring and look into loose lay vinyl as an option. With regards to trim color it's up to my boss (5'2" red hair, pretty woman, mother of my children, that boss) to make the call on color, but I like the silver you went with, very sharp.

I have been trying to get in touch with Colin Hyde to order one of his metal endcap kits, but haven't heard back yet. Figure I better get the rear one in before I build the bunks.


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Old 06-15-2015, 07:20 PM   #429
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Got some work done today! First off I pulled out all the interior window trim, sanded them relatively smooth(I could have done more but time is money), then painted everything a clean white as per bosses instructions. Her plan is to keep the palette simple, although I did petition for silver/aluminum for the trim color .

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The interior is now swept out of all the spray paint dust and ready for the center panel to be cut.

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The original center panel ran the full length of the trailer and was a bear to remove. With that in mind I am planning to cut my new clean aluminum sheet into 2 sections to facilitate an easier installation. Part of that project will be adding 4 new overhead LED lights, you can see one of them tucked under the wiring in the above photo.

After that I will be fabricating metal endcaps so stay tuned, I might need some help!

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Old 06-17-2015, 11:48 PM   #430
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Finished all the power checks for my future overhead LEDs tonight and started on getting the air conditioner interior components back in place. As a stroke of bad luck, or because 'someone' may have used the interior control panel to give him an extra set of hands when putting in the upper interior skins by himself, the 3 long bolts that attach the interior vents/controls are all bent. No time tonight to see if the local big box has something that will work.

The wood framing around the A/C hole was originally attached with Sikaflex as the residue is hard, white, and only coming off with a scraper. This stuff doesn't soften with anything I have on hand. Anyways with some scraping the wood framing is relatively good enough to go back up and do it's job of providing support between the inner skin and the A/C on the outside and the vents and controls on the inside, sandwiched together by said bent bolts, but I digress....


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Munch munch munch.....


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Old 06-20-2015, 12:51 AM   #431
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Ok! Got 1/3 of the new overhead installed along with 2 of the 4 led lights. I am very happy with the light they put out, with the other 2 in the front the trailer will have plenty of lighting. Since they are dual element also they can be tuned down for different mood lighting (with 3 kids I don't see this being a very often used option lol)

A couple of tips for cutting the overhead. The original was 24 1/2 inches wide (thanks a LOT Airstream considering most aluminum is sold at 48 inches, lots of potential waste). I will use the extra for the metal endcaps so no worries. Ensure that you cut them the same width, I took off about 1/8-1/4 inch thinking they would slide easier, which they did. However they are designed to sort of spring into an upward curve and if they sit loose then the panels are flat, which is minor, but can make the trim around the fantastic fans have a little gap.

I had some aluminum that had sat out in the CA sun for a few months with the protective sheeting still on them. DO NOT DO THIS! The sheeting broke down in the sun and wouldn't pull off without tearing every oh.... 1/16 of an inch, and also leaving behind the adhesive which I have to goo gone off the panel. Saved me a few bucks but what a pain. Keep your beloved aluminum under cover

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Hope to post the other half sometime this week. Thanks for reading!


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Old 06-20-2015, 06:55 AM   #432
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My 66 "old style" Trade Wind doesn't have this wire way in the ceiling. The 12v and 115v wiring are strung through the walls and ribs. I can sure see how having the wiring run the length of the ceiling, and then radiating down to the fixtures makes a lot of sense.

Thanks for the tip on the protective plastic on sheet aluminum getting baked on in the sunshine. I wouldn't have guessed that one.

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Old 06-30-2015, 09:45 PM   #433
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Got the other half of the new overhead cut and installed today. I cut this one true to width at 24 1/2 in and with a little WD40 in the tracks it went in without too much trouble.

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Oh I also started putting new screen material into the screen frames. I went with a 'solar screen' from HD and here are my initial thoughts. For one it is very thick and thus durable to young hands pushing on them, big plus. The solar blocking is also a plus from a shade perspective, even if it's inside versus outside which is more effective. The biggest downside is that due to the thicker material you MUST use the thinnest spline you can find. Here is the pro tip though, learn from me on this one. Roll the screen into the groove first, then roll in the spline, the screen is thick enough to stay in the groove and the spline goes in MUCH easier with this process versus all at once spline and screen.

Next up is the metal rear endcap project once I get the ceiling trimmed out, hoping it works out


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Old 07-02-2015, 08:06 PM   #434
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Good tip on the screen install. I didn't see the solar screen material, I just used old fashioned aluminum. Yep, the screens install easier if you run the roller in the groove first to "form" the screen to the groove. This was especially nice with my metal aluminum screen material. Splines come in all kinds of sizes. I measured the groove width and went with that. I think I used .120 in the windows and .165 or something like that for the door.

Your overhead "wire way" looks good. Glad you got it up there okay. Another step done on your trailer.

I got my new fridge installed last weekend. IT WORKS! I had to chase down a couple of propane leaks. I also tested the new water heater and furnace. It's the first time my trailer has seen hot water in years. Now I'm working on a new slide in cook top. That's the last appliance. My Trade Wind's maiden voyage is the first of August. I have a lot to do before then.

We keep plugging away.

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Old 08-15-2015, 12:06 AM   #435
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Been over a month since my last update, got a good one!

A big thanks to Zep and to Larry B for their posts on interior metal endcaps, really helped a lot.

First I needed to make a patch in the rear endcap for an unneeded plumbing vent, my new layout only needs one.

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Old 08-15-2015, 12:14 AM   #436
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Next I cut the aluminum segments as outlined in Larry B's post "Aluminum Interior Endcap Segmented". I cut enough for both sides using a harbor freight electric metal shears, they worked great and cut nice straight lines.

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Next I took the panels in sets of 5, aligning the short and long edges on the side nearest the holes, and drilled holes .5 in from the edge 1.5 inches apart. This closely simulates the spacing on the exterior endcap. As you drill never skip putting in clecos!

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Old 08-15-2015, 12:19 AM   #437
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The endcap needs spacers to provide support for the dome as it takes shape. I could not find 1.75 inch foam so I bought 1 in and .75 in closed cell foam and glued them together in 3 in squares with contact cement. You will need about a half sheet of each for the front and back, quarter sheet for just one.

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Next I glued them to the endcap ceiling with spray contact cement at approx 7 in on center spacing.

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Old 08-15-2015, 12:25 AM   #438
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Finish the insulation with loose fiberglass I pulled off a roll.

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You start at an outer edge ensure you have about 1 in of overlap with the wall edge, align the short edge with the overhead panels and press it tight to the ceiling and drill a hole, cleco, drill, cleco, along the short edge.

The long edge works the same way.

Once it is secured, place your next panel, ensure your overlap is the same for all panels, cleco, drill, repeat. Make sure you press the panel right to the ceiling.

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Old 08-15-2015, 12:44 AM   #439
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Once you finish the 5th panel switch to the other side and repeat. Once you get to the center panel check your spacing, your left and right sides should be very close since you drilled them all together. Make any small adjustments on the 5th panel so that your center panel is dead center.

The center panel is riveted on both sides.

Ok here are some things I did different than others who have done this project.

1) I used 5/32 rivets, I just had way more black clecos. I had 100 and I still had to take a lot and move them forward.

2) Brace yourselves, I used 5/32 POP RIVETS. Yes I could have used Olympics, the expense and lack of a shaver dissuaded me. Yes I could have taken the whole thing down and bucked 350 or so rivets on each one. It was a lot of work just to get to this point and I am solo. So there you go, I used a HF pneumatic rivet gun and got those 350 rivets per endcap in quick and easy. The 5/32 pop rivets have a nice head size and actually look really good IMO.

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Rear, I trimmed it straight across and regretted it afterward though it looks fine. It caused a slight gap on the sides and I should have just left it and let it go under the screen frame like the front. Only trim where needed under the window frame trim to keep it out of view.

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Front endcap!

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Another photo before I put screen back in place.

This was a big project, albeit once I understood the process the front went much faster. Plan for 12-14 hours on your first one using this method if you are mildly handy. All you master aluminum artists out there be kind in your comments


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Old 08-15-2015, 09:31 AM   #440
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Nice work
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