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Old 11-09-2014, 05:12 AM   #341
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I'll try to think of what I'd do about this problem if it were in my garage. These ideas are crazy, but they might stimulate a good solution.
Weld on some mounting "brackets" that meet the mounting holes, but extend the bumper backwards. The bumper would mount flush to the box.

Grind a taper on the bottom box plate to reduce the amount of interference and force the bumper into position.

Cut away some of the bottom plate with a plasma cutter so it matches the bumper lower edge when mounted. Then make a bracket to secure the bottom of the bumper, one hole in the frame rail, one hole for the bumper.

Grind the bottom lip of the bumper away until the top mounting holes line up. Then add a splice bracket to secure the bottom of the bumper.

Bend the bottom lip of the bumper downward so it slips over the bottom plate.

Have a metal fab shop make a new bumper that has a 5 1/4 inside clearance.

Cut a slot with a cut off wheel along the lower plate so the bumper slips into the slot.
I hope I helped stimulate a solution for you.

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Old 11-09-2014, 11:22 AM   #342
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You can probably grind the lower edge away with an angle grinder. Or you could have some tabs of the right spacing welded to the bumper. Or make some bolt on brackets.

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Old 11-09-2014, 03:33 PM   #343
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Guys, Good suggestion on grinding the edge down, might smooth the transition enough just to knock the edge off a bit then I can, ahem.... 'Assist' it the rest of the way with a mallet and wood block. A bracket would set the bumper back and change the location of the bumper trunk lid aft, not my first choice if the grinding works out.

Thanks David and Perry for the suggestions, hate to grind on a nicely POR-15ed frame :/ but it must be done.


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Old 11-09-2014, 06:29 PM   #344
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Ooooh! The sparks are going to fly! You'll see how good a weld your welder made in this area. You can touch it up after the grinding is done. Besides, the only folks that will see it are the ones crawling under your trailer looking for that nickel they dropped.

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Old 11-11-2014, 09:39 PM   #345
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Ok the night work continues, days just get so full with the family I find myself outside at night thinking "what are you doing out here?" Tonight was somewhat satisfying as I competed several minor tasks needing to be done.

1) 7 way switch is wired and installed, just needs to be sealed and screwed in. Before that I will hook up the truck and test everything. Hope that goes well.... Airstream put in a huge 6 gauge grounding wire that runs up to the front. My memory serves that it was connected along with the brake and vehicle ground to one of the bolts that attach the 7 way to the shell.

2) AC grounding wire routed and connected to frame. I elected to have the AC ground attach in the upper corner of my bumper trunk. I took a wire wheel and removed the PoR15 from a small area and attached the grounding wire via a copper lug. Should be easy to check and ensure a proper ground versus a hidden ground under the belly skin.

3) Next up on my to-dos is to test the AC power. I repainted the original circuit breaker box and purchased new breakers (just be be on the cautious side). I added additional outlets and separated my circuits into 3 loops (inverter power strip, internal circuits, and external circuits). The other circuit is the 20 amp AC circuit. So 5 total including the 30 amp main. I added a gfci receptacle to each at the beginning of each outlet circuit. I have read some that GFIs can cause issues, wear out, etc. If they do I figure I will just wire in a standard receptacle.

In order to test the system I am going to reinstall just 1 interior skin so that I can properly route the wires to the breaker box. It is a big one though, runs nearly 12 ft I would imagine. And here is where I paid for storing my skins outside. It's 10PM at night and there I am scrubbing dried grass clippings, mud, etc off thus big skin with a headlamp on. For once I was glad to be in Florida as it was in the low 70s still. On a side note, my sharpie pen that I used to write on the BACK of the skins bled onto the front of the skins they were laying on. Not sure if that will come out, doubt it, but I was planning on painting everything anyways.

Will post some pictures of the progress soon. Thanks to all for following along and I always welcome advice or if I need to be steered back on course.

Happy Veterans Day my thanks to all those who serve our nation.


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Old 11-12-2014, 06:07 AM   #346
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I would spray those panels down with bleach. The ones that I did that on are not sticky anymore.

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Old 11-12-2014, 04:41 PM   #347
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Good suggestion Perry, I will put a bleach solution in my garden sprayer and hit all the panels with a nice strong soak of bleach.

Just ordered a deadbolt from VTS. I am a little concerned about my old KT lock set. I am planning to install it to the right of the door. I will document and get some good photos of the install for anyone else who is thinking about putting one in. With the skins already off it's not much trouble to install I would imagine.

The solid deadbolt will both ensure that the door remains closed when enroute and provides a nice security factor when sleeping with the wife and kids, not that I am too worried about that but better to be prepared.


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Old 11-12-2014, 05:16 PM   #348
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I've been storing my interior skins outside as well.... Although you are going WAY faster than me. Mine have been out there since since beginning of 2013....

I have in my notes, that Inland Andy recommended Bleche White for cleaning the interior. Its an automotive cleaning product that is sold for use on white wall tires. I've used it alot for that purpose, and it sure does make the tires look great.

I'm interested in watching what you do on your KT lock. Mine was gone when I bought my trailer, so I've been planning my re-build of the door ever since. I bought this lock set for cheap, with the idea that I can swap it with a readily available "standardized" door lock if I ever need to. Has the added bonus of built in deadbolt.

Chrome RV Entry Door Lock Handle Knob w Deadbolt New FIC camper Trailer | eBay

I will take the opportunity to re-skin the top half of the door while everything is apart. Hopefully I'll be glad I did one day. Have no idea if I'll need additional deadbolt, but I've also thought of the suicide door problem... hopefully the deadbolt in this new one is sufficient.

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Old 11-13-2014, 01:40 PM   #349
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Mic that is a pretty good deal on the lockset. It says it replaces the bargman, is that what yours came with? My KT lockset is still functioning fine, I just worry given it's age and all the stories I have read about failures, rebuilds, etc. I would rather put the majority of the punishment on the deadbolt and save the KT for just opening and closing.

On another note my KT lockset looks horrendous. Were they originally chrome? Mine has chrome peeling off of it and I was wondering if that is just chrome spray or something. It's on my list but WAY back there




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Old 11-13-2014, 02:11 PM   #350
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No- mine originally came with the KT, but was already gone when I bought the trailer. Rather than go down the road of putting back in the $500 KT that is notoriously failure prone to breaking and locking you out of the rig, I'm taking the opportunity to rebuild with the more commonly available & standardized door lock. That way I can fix, replace and upgrade easily. They even have a keyless option that uses a combination and motorized lock.... pretty cool feature. Amazon.com: AP Products 013-509 Electric Travel Trailer Lock: Automotive


I'll be doing what Aerowood did here with same lock: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f416...-26902-18.html

I dont know if they were chrome or not...
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Old 11-14-2014, 12:47 PM   #351
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Just warning here, if you use the stock stricker plate location you will have to modify the screen door lock opening by cutting off the upper crossbar and re welding it in a higher position for lockset clearance.


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Old 11-14-2014, 01:17 PM   #352
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10-4 on that! I'm welding my old holes shut and re-positioning the entire assembly to fit within the screen opening.

Did you find that the location of the inside handle distance from the jamb/ edge of door was sufficient to clear the screen frame? (left to right). It looks like I may have to cut off the channel for the screen spline, as it appears the inside handle will be close to the edge of the door and left side of the opening in the screen door.
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Old 11-14-2014, 01:24 PM   #353
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I don't know the answer to that as I have not re installed the screen door yet , but the tape measure says I should be fine. I am also looking at a magnetic screen that velcos on. My wife has not informed me yet as to what I want to do


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Old 11-14-2014, 02:53 PM   #354
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Yes I use the same thought process because it saves time and work!
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:12 PM   #355
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Yes I use the same thought process because it saves time and work!
Cliff
Which?? Using the magnetic screen or waiting for the wife to decide what you want to do?
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:51 PM   #356
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Quote:
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Which?? Using the magnetic screen or waiting for the wife to decide what you want to do?

We ALL know the answer to that one!


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Old 11-16-2014, 12:49 PM   #357
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Ok fellas installing the long skin about 3/4 up the trailer that encompasses the curve to the roof, the stove vent, and the breaker box. Lots of wires going into this thing and I am really having a time trying to get it in with the wires and fitting it over the vent. I have gotten some Clecos in on the end so perhaps I will finish this one this evening. Just doing it solo is TOUGH. Any tips?

Also putting in the 1.5 in foil backed fiberglass is proving challenging as it falls out due to its weight. I tried contact cement but it's not doing it, maybe a more general adhesive spray to assist in holding the fiberglass sections in place while I get the skin over it? Right now I am just fitting it in just prior to closing up the top of that section of skin.

After this long section of skin is in I will reattach the breaker box in its new location and test the AC wiring prior to continuing with final insulation and skin installation. Those big skins are a monster to get in solo especially when you have to bend them into the curve of the ceiling. Good times

Click image for larger version

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Side story, I hooked up my truck to test me new 7 way plug on the trailer. Long story short things were just 'weird' and, after killing my truck battery troubleshooting. That's 2 giant battering on a Ram 2500, don't know what I was thinking leaving headings, flashers, etc on for hours... Dumb. I had a check engine light. Found a blown 'trailer battery' breaker. Replacing fuse removed check engine light. I then figured I miswired my 7 way. Just out of curiosity I checked my umbilical for continuity across corresponding pins. Strangely the center pin on one side was showing continuity to one on the outside. After taking it apart, see photo above, I just love how EVERYTHING on my trailer starts out looking like this. I saw that the PO had, my best guess, wired one side per the new standard and the corresponding trailer end to the old standard. Why didn't I think about that before? Well after rewiring the umbilical, and making a note to build a new one when time and money is present, everything works hunky dory.


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Old 11-16-2014, 02:09 PM   #358
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Which?? Using the magnetic screen or waiting for the wife to decide what you want to do?
Yes
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:19 PM   #359
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Your doing great work and making loads of progress sir! Keep up the great work and thanks for keeping us posted I am enjoying the wonderful crud some scum sucking person shared at work!
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:56 PM   #360
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

I used tape on my insulation.

Taped it to the ribs and that was that.

Tape is useful for holding all kinds of stuff in place, it will work to hold the wires too.

1/2 Ton 4WD Truck, 72 Sovereign Hensley Arrow
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