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Old 12-04-2014, 06:45 PM   #381
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Getting ready for a long road trip soon. Wish you the best of luck. It might be a while before you have time to continue the project. You've got a lot done!

David
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Old 12-04-2014, 08:25 PM   #382
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Thanks David, best of luck to you too.

I took the trailer out for its maiden voyage and it weigh it. With the trailer axles only on the scale HITCHED she was 2820 lbs, so with tongue weight just around 3200 I would guess.

Question for the group, brand new axles and brakes, I manually activated the brakes at various speeds up to 35-40 mph and increased the to near max and while I could feel the trailer slowing I had all windows down I never heard the tires lock. One person I asked said the brakes needed to be bedded in. Seems reasonable to me, but if am just wondering if with new brakes this is common/uncommon. If I have a wiring issue (bad ground or something) I need to figure it out now.


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Old 12-05-2014, 05:04 AM   #383
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Hi MillertimeUS, My new axles are 10"drums with the six bolt pattern. I was told that was the new standard for "lightweight" trailers. Geez, four 10" heaters on a 4000 pound trailer seemed plenty adequate for long Colorado downhills. The first test I did was jack the trailer up, pull the emergency brake safety pin, and rotate the wheel/tire to feel the brakes lock up. They did, so I figured I have adequate voltage to the magnets.

My Ford factory brake controller is set for my 86. When I tested my 66 Trade Wind, I got some braking action, but not a wheel lock up. I've been a bit disappointed in the braking action of my new 10" drums. I have not tried to set up the gain on my brake controller yet. It was 8.5 to lock up the 86, so I assumed that was enough power to handle the 66. But maybe not.

Bottom line, try more gain setting on your controller. At 20 mph a full actuation of the in cab trailer brake controller ought to stop the trailer and tow vehicle with some tire squeal without using tow vehicle brakes at all. Mine doesn't do that yet.

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Old 12-05-2014, 06:07 AM   #384
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I have never seen trailer drum brakes that would stop both the trailer and the tow vehicle in less than half a mile. Now maybe with disk brakes you would have better performance.

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Old 12-05-2014, 07:04 AM   #385
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... One person I asked said the brakes needed to be bedded in...

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Yeah, I've had both 10" and 12" brakes that didn't do squat for the first 100 miles before finally coming on board. Use them a bit, readjust the brakes then use them some more. I have 10" brakes on my Overlander and they really stop well. I like to feel the trailer pulling when I stop, I guess I'm used to the 34' with a Hensley hitch where ya really want it to be agressive on the braking.
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Old 12-05-2014, 07:16 AM   #386
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Thanks all, making me feel a little better. Will let them work for a bit and recheck after 100 miles.

Perry are you saying it is possible that even at 3200 lbs 4 new 10" drums may not lock up the tires even once broken in?


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Old 12-05-2014, 07:22 AM   #387
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Once the shoes are worn into the drum they will work well.

It just takes a few hundred miles.

If the rest of your electric brake setup is right, I will make you the promise that after they wear in, you will be able to lock those wheels down and make smoke.

It took me the the best part of a thousand mile trip before my brakes to fully settle in.

I am a person who likes to feel his trailer brakes a lot. I work them hard. Like I said above, if the rest of your setup is right, the 10" drums will work just fine once they wear in.

When they start wearing in they are going to piss you off as they start locking up because you will have the gain turned up all the way.

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Old 12-05-2014, 09:00 AM   #388
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See what it does on a dirt surface

Quote:
Originally Posted by millertimeUS View Post
Question for the group, brand new axles and brakes, I manually activated the brakes at various speeds up to 35-40 mph and increased the to near max and while I could feel the trailer slowing I had all windows down I never heard the tires lock. One person I asked said the brakes needed to be bedded in. Seems reasonable to me, but if am just wondering if with new brakes this is common/uncommon. If I have a wiring issue (bad ground or something) I need to figure it out now.
Get the trailer moving slowly on a dirt/weeds (but not someone's lawn) surface, then apply full brakes with the lever on the controller. If that locks the brakes, you'll leave tracks. Pull the trailer forward a little, shut down, then get out and evaluate the tracks.

A good, symmetrical set of skid marks says the brakes are working (or at least that the failure is on both sides. Full application of the controller should lock them up on dirt. Easier on the tires than locking them up on pavement. Our trailer is single-axle, so I have no experience evaluating tracks from dual wheels/brakes. I assume there would be a difference if one brake on a side were not working.

You can jack up one side of the trailer, spin a wheel by hand, and ask a helper to activate the brake controller. That's how we tested one wheel at a time. With no load on the wheel, it should stop instantly.

Great work on your trailer in such a short period of time. Best of luck with the move.
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Old 12-05-2014, 11:22 AM   #389
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Matt
I read through this whole thread today. Great work on your trailer!
Since you sent that PM to me I took time to look at your frame. The bike rack I have will not work on your trailer without being modified.
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:10 PM   #390
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The brakes will perform differently at different speeds. I think they work the best about about 25 MPH. Yes you should be able to get them to lock once they are broken in. Good car/truck radials will also grip better than most trailer tires. Stopping the trailer with the trailer brakes only is a little like trying to stop a car with just the emergency brake. It works but it takes a while. Once they lock, the frictional force is lower than if they don't hence the reason for antilock brakes. Brakes on the trailer tend to make it more stable and less likely to jackknife during braking. You have to play with that brake controller as they brake in.

So where is your new duty station?

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Old 12-05-2014, 02:03 PM   #391
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Thanks all! Some great advice here, love these forums.

AWWarn yes unfortunately I don't think it will work either, did you do the work yourself? Looks great!

Perry we are headed to San Diego, will be stationed aboard a ship at 32nd street. We are excited for sure to spend some time out there.






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Old 12-05-2014, 03:02 PM   #392
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Yes, I cut it out with the plasma cutter and welded it up with a wire welder. I'm lucky to have a relative with a welding shop I can use when I need to.
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Old 12-05-2014, 07:29 PM   #393
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Hello all, thanks for the advice about breaking in new drum brakes. Mine are self adjusting, so I'll be sure to brake in reverse a few times. But maybe the "production oils" or the fit between shoe and drum reduced the braking force on these new axles. I've only got 100 miles on them, and very little braking force from highway speeds. I approach stop signs with a long coast down if I can.

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Old 12-06-2014, 10:59 AM   #394
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Final product, please forgive my half removed clearcoat . Doesn't look too pretty.



Matt: good luck with your move to san diego. I've been tracking your progress. Coming along nicely. I got my shell clecoed together last weekend so I'm back on track. I tried to start removing clear coat last night with Aircraft Stripper. Not working super well plus it was $10 for one can. At this rate it will take me 40 cans. Any suggestions on what i might try?

best to you.
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Old 12-06-2014, 11:19 AM   #395
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Quote:
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Matt: good luck with your move to san diego. I've been tracking your progress. Coming along nicely. I got my shell clecoed together last weekend so I'm back on track. I tried to start removing clear coat last night with Aircraft Stripper. Not working super well plus it was $10 for one can. At this rate it will take me 40 cans. Any suggestions on what i might try?

best to you.


Thanks brother, glad to hear you have the shell back on already! Moving fast!

I have gone through 3 spray cans and it is super patchy. Were you using spray or liquid cans and brushing it on? I am planning to source stripper, maybe a gallon or so in a bulk can, for me that ought to do it. I would use the product VTS sells but it is just too much and really pricey. I did think the clearcoat removal would be easier though....


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Old 12-06-2014, 02:06 PM   #396
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Click image for larger version

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My wife snuck these on the back window


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Old 12-06-2014, 02:22 PM   #397
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Like the decals.

My P3 controller manual says to warm the brakes up first by driving about 1/4 mile at 45 mph with brakes lightly applied. Then adjust the gain until the brakes lock up at 25 mph and back off until they stop locking.

Ive been following your restoration. Looks like you are doing a superb job and doing everything right! Congrats.

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Old 12-06-2014, 02:32 PM   #398
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I agree. I saw the vts remover for $189. I didn't want to spend that much but after running around all day today I'm tempted to just order it. Seems like everything takes longer and more expensive than I expected.


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Old 12-12-2014, 10:47 PM   #399
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I've gone to brushing it on and using lacquer thinner to clean up residue. Working pretty well. Make it to San Diego yet?


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Old 12-30-2014, 10:08 AM   #400
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Things are going well, spent the last 2 weeks living at the hotel. We depart for San Diego this weekend.

The plan is to take 6 days, 5 driving with one day off.

Initially I was thinking just I-10 from pensacola all the way to San Diego. Some feedback from other Navy families was that the drive was boring and did not provide many good stops along the way.

My new plan is to go west on 10, heD north at mobile and stairstep up and pickup i40 west of Oklahoma. Then drive west and head south at flagstaff. It only adds 75 miles to a 2000 mile drive and would be much more interesting with more stops for the kids and my pregnant wife.

Current weather outlook shows no winter storms near flagstaff at all next week.

What do you all think of the route? Any suggestions or ideas on good places along the way to stop for a day break or places the kids would enjoy? They are 3 and 1.5 so keep that in mind that a set of concrete steps entertain them lol .

Thanks all!


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