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Old 07-25-2014, 08:03 AM   #201
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I was going to move to more modern insulation when I built my trailer. I was set on getting the trailer spray foamed but I couldn't find a contractor who would talk to me about spraying a trailer so I just used Fiberglass.

The stuff I took out was still basically perfect after 40 years so I figured it would outlive me this time.

It was cheap, quick, and available so I used it.


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Old 07-25-2014, 08:43 AM   #202
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I would avoid spray foam as it would cause problems later if you need to repair/ modified remove any thing on the shell.
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:53 AM   #203
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

I agree.

In the end I was glad no one would come out to spray my trailer. It was hard enough dealing with the fiberglass.


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Old 07-25-2014, 10:33 AM   #204
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So guys, 1/2 foam spacers then 1 layer of reflectix then fiberglass batting to fill to the interior skins. Good plan? I would split some 3.5 in thick insulation in half so 1.75 inches compressed into about 1 inch. Would this defeat the point? They also sell 2 inch thick I could split to 1 inch perhaps a better plan.


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Old 07-25-2014, 11:27 AM   #205
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Oooor you could get some......I am no insulation expert or even really good at it, so I say give it a try and see how it works! If you have the time do the mythbuster thing and make a mock box put a thermometer in it pack ice first on the outside of the box check temp then use hot rags and check again! The kids would love it!
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:45 PM   #206
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I think the spacers will work.


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Old 08-04-2014, 07:20 PM   #207
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Ok got some more insulation in, still not sure whether to go win two layers of reflectix with 1/2" spacers or just 1 layer then 1" of fiberglass. Feedback welcomed


Got another sheet of flooring epoxied tonight, learned a few things as well. I used system 3 2-part structural epoxy for my edges. This stuff is THICK, even at 80 degrees outside. I can't imagine it when it's cold. Anyways I applied is to the outside edges top and bottom about 4 inches in or so. I would do more but this stuff is pricey and this is the critical zone for coverage IMO. The good part about this system 3 epoxy is that it provides a nice build that will stand up to some punishment and really seal out any incoming water quite well.

This is only my second floor section to epoxy so far, and on this one I remembered that I had a RotFix kit I bought back when I thought all the trailer needed was some curtains and new floors (ahh those were the days!). This penetrating epoxy is much thinner and I took it and applied it further inboard to around 12 inches on top and 6 on bottom, it covered quite well and will I hope provide some extra protection just in case water penetrates further into the shell.

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Yes, 'GASP' it's OSB what are you thinking! Let's all hope for my sake that Advantech lives up to its 50 year guarantee.

On that note for all interested parties I will be putting a piece of my flooring and submerging it in water for the next few months outside in the Florida heat. Let's see how the Advantech holds up . If I can scrounge up some other types of ply I will add them to the test. I know I have some exterior grade ply but it might be cheap sheathing. Any suggestions I can raid the HD scrap bin and add them to the submersion test. Maybe partial submersion would be better? Allow saturation but better support fungal growth? Ideas?




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Old 08-05-2014, 04:41 AM   #208
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As for the fifty year thing or the lifetime warrantee I tried to file on my linoleum and they samsonite said it was the installers responsibility and the installer said that they had no such thing and it was a manufacture thing!!?! Go figure! I will stick with plywood!
Cliff


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Old 08-06-2014, 12:33 PM   #209
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Talked to the welder today they have started work! Should have it back in about 2 weeks


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Old 08-16-2014, 07:33 PM   #210
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

The prep work continues while I await the return of my new frame. Last week was epoxying the floors. This week opens with repairing some of the damaged older plastic parts. In particular the ABS wheel wells, interior well covers, end caps, etc.


I am using fiberglass cloth and resin for repairs. I have never used these products before, so please excuse if the work looks rough. However pretty much everything will be painted over or hidden so no worries.

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Step 1 was to stop drill all the current cracks in the wheel wells. This is the same technique our mechs use when we get cracks in the airframe of our helicopters.

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My hardener did not come with a predrilled hole but the instructions indicated 10 drops/oz which gives 10 min working time. This is a BIG change from the epoxy I used on the floors which had a several hour working time. Ensure that your glass cloth is precut and don't have too many to do at one time. After brushing directly over the repair site apply the cloth and brush again till the cloth is saturated. I only did 1 layer of cloth as I didn't need much stiffness on the wells. I just finished about 7 small 4-6 inch repair when my resin turned to rock.

My dad has agreed to come down Mid September for a week to help on the AS. That week will be full court press to install floors, underfloor insulation, tanks, belly skin, and then get the body reattached. Lots of people on the forums doing great work, if anyone hasn't subscribed to "I tried to remove my shower pan, please help" , you should! It's a good read and Marco is hard at work getting that GT back into working order


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Old 08-17-2014, 03:33 PM   #211
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I regularly enjoy both threads, I like it when folks get stuff done and not letting a project linger into infinity!
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:00 AM   #212
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wow

I just read the whole thread, Matt, just amazing. Keep up thre great progress!! MPJ
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:56 PM   #213
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Thanks J Morgan and MPJ for the support, needing it tonight! After working on all this dirty ugly stuff can sort of feel like it will never end!

Tonight I pulled out the wheel well C Channels from my pile O' stuff in the backyard. I have been avoiding this little project for sometime,.... Cleaning them up. While most the other c channels had a little bit of grime and a smudge of sealant, these two demons from sealant hell were smeared all over, especially the inside track where the wells sit. I started my attack with metal putty knife and a narrow chisel for the inside parts. This Sealant is white, hard but just pliable enough to scrape off partially. After I got a lot of the big stuff I sprayed the whole thing down with Desolv It, an orange based contactor grade remover. It's easy on the hands and smells nice. It dissolved the remaining sealant somewhat, but really just turned it into this slimy gray paste that just won't come off without a ton of wiping, etc.

Anyways I spent an hour on those two c channels and they still have enough residue in places that I am unsure if they are clean enough to have fresh sealant stick. Not to mention I still need to paint the outer areas black again.

Frustrated with hands covered in gray goo I out put them against the fence and sprayed them down with more Desolv it. Hopefully the Florida sun and rain will help me out some and degrease those suckers. Dawn didn't help much and the goo just STICKS in the bristles of my scrub brushes.

In short, cleaning old sealant really sucks.

I am going to let those demons sit and attack the remaining electrical outlets and insulation work for a while..... Whew!


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Old 08-18-2014, 10:48 PM   #214
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If the chems fail, you might think about trying the careful application of a little heat.

Maybe a heat gun or even a propane torch providing you can stay upwind of the fumes.

Too bad you aren't here, we could just bend up some new ones with my metal brake...
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Old 08-19-2014, 05:52 AM   #215
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Try Kleen Kutter Gel Formula. You want the extra toxic stuff not the orange flavored stuff. If it says "do not get on skin" then you have the right stuff.

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Old 08-19-2014, 10:18 PM   #216
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Matt. Keep it up. You keep me motivated. I took mine to a welder today after getting all the plywood off. Frame wasn't too bad. Just know I check forum every day to see what you've done and how I can learn from you.


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Old 08-20-2014, 10:42 PM   #217
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We're right behind you!

Hi Matt-I'm going to refer my husband (digidad) to your thread as we are right behind you. Fortunately we pretty much knew going in that our trailer reno would be a full monty--and paid accordingly.

I have three welders lined up to come over on Friday to look at our frame. We're almost ready to pull the body off. I was looking for pricing to get a ballpark number...looks like you said $2400 for material, NOT labor? May I ask your estimate for the whole thing? And, looks like you are building an entirely new frame not repairing, correct?

Here's our reno thread that my husband has been keeping:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f169...er-123238.html

We're doing almost everything ourselves but can't handle the welding/frame. He's a technology guy and looking forward to re-wiring and plumbing. We're also changing the floorplan to a rear bedroom/side bath with a big kitchen and (hopefully) bar!

Thanks for all the details on your project, I look forward to going back and reading your entire thread!

Laurel
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:02 AM   #218
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

J Morgan and perry thanks for the suggestions. They look a little better in the daylight, but still need some work will put your ideas to work.

Swahealy, hope Paulie is progressing well you are doing a great job on her!

Laurel I am glad I hear you and your husband did your homework and did not get the surprise that I did! Regarding the new frame my cost was $2400 (just spoke with welder a few days ago) for everything including labor. I did supply the POR15 and metal ready but they are going to spray it prior to installing my new axles and shocks (which I also provided). I also ordered a bulldog jack to replace the tired power jack on the front, which they will also put in.

Pensacola has a lot of skilled labor in these trades so I was able to find a good price. Albeit most shops sent me packing, too much trouble for not enough money I guess. Found my guy through recommendation from a shop owner who said this is the guy he would use. He has a buddy, the owner of another shop, who is letting him use his main shop and they are tag teaming my frame. We have a local steel mill also so that might cut costs some. The 2400 also includes a brand new refabricated pan for my fresh water tank, which was rusted to ribbons.

Thanks again to everyone for all the support and encouragement. I just got in a big order from VTS. Buck riveting kit, 2 fantastic fans, and a new 55 in gray water tank from them should be in today. Oh I forgot to mention I ordered and received 2 4x12 sheets of 5052-H32 aluminum from aircraft spruce for the new belly pan. Getting all my ducks in a row for the weeklong marathon session next month.







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Old 08-21-2014, 08:50 PM   #219
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Just in from VTS, grey 55 in tank which will fit the 70s frames really well. Capacity is 21 gallons. I am using my old gray tank as well so total gray capacity should be around 35 gallons. They did a nice job on the spun weld fittings and their communication with me to check that the placement was correct was excellent. Highly recommend VTS for tanks.


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Old 08-25-2014, 07:40 PM   #220
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Talked to my frame guy, things taking longer than I had hoped. He said maybe complete this Saturday, it depends on how fast he gets it painted. In either case I am headed down to pensacola on Saturday to check it out.

Took my daily bite of the elephant today putting new weather seal on the h2o inlet. When it rained I could see the water leaking inside, which means it would end up in my water tank.
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Then I remove the tank vents from the roof to facilitate new gaskets. Well one will get new gaskets, the other one I will rivet in a blank cover and then reinstall the cover, no one will be the wiser and my new layout does not need 2 vents.

At the advice of the forum I pulled my air conditioner cover to clean it up. It was surprisingly clean. My removing the cover, with it's old brittle plastic, led to it cracking. I hate making work for myself. I did find a nice crack on the top which I was able to seal up though with some fiberglass and resin. Looked like something heavy fell on it, pinecone? It's in better shape now and I also reglued the foam air seals in place that had long since come unglued.

Munch munch munch..... How many more bites will this elephant take to finish?

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