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Old 08-30-2014, 03:02 PM   #241
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

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Ditched the tired electric jack for a bulldog sidewinder rated to 5000 lb, the only parts of the old frame he reused were the corner supports with the big drilled holes and the curved front crossmember. The rest is all fresh steel including a new coupler etc.

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After talking to Colin Hyde I elected to get rid of the rear galvanized pan. I also had my welder box in my bumper trunk bottom. Will drill drain holes once I figure out where the water pools.

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They had to add some bushings to get the shocks to line up and install properly.

I am very pleased with the frame. No time to sit back and enjoy because it's time to get to work.

First thing is to wet sand the cured por15 on the tongue and rear bumper area. After that I can topcoat with POR15 sterling silver. POR15 is not UV resistant and they recommend it be topcoated in all areas exposed to sun.

After that I am unsure if I should go ahead and remove the axles....

Removing them would make flipping the frame easier, but with the tires on I could use them to set the frame on its side during the times the frame is on its side.

What would you all do?

If it all goes to plan in 2 weeks this frame will have a shell on it




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Old 08-30-2014, 06:51 PM   #242
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Gee, if I were you I'd just jack up your new frame, set it on jack stands and go to work laying on your back, or a creeper.

For me, the belly pan is one of the last things to go on. The belly pan assembly seems easier with the axles off. You will want to check out your plumbing and wiring, and insulate the sub floor before the belly pan is hung. And don't forget the tow vehicle 12v wiring harness (lights, brakes, etc.)

I've not built a trailer from scratch like you are doing. It seems the majority of the work will be above the frame, not below it.

Enjoy your photos...

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Old 08-30-2014, 06:55 PM   #243
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

I would probably work from under the trailer too, but I would be able to work inside on the concrete with the frame jacked comfortably high enough to make working easy.

Working in the grass is different.
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Old 08-30-2014, 08:36 PM   #244
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My plan was to do a rotisserie using my gantries like I have seen others do. It's a little work to get the frame flipped but once you do it will be easier not working on my back putting in underbody insulation, plumbing, tanks, valves, and fitting new belly skin.

Who knows though, as they say in the Marines, " no plan survives first contact "


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Old 08-30-2014, 08:46 PM   #245
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my plan was to do a rotisserie using my gantries like i have seen others do. It's a little work to get the frame flipped but once you do it will be easier not working on my back putting in underbody insulation, plumbing, tanks, valves, and fitting new belly ...
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Old 08-31-2014, 03:47 AM   #246
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Try improvise adapt and cuss a lot hit something substantial then overcome! (Old corps) we did not tweet, text or post anything anywhere electrically! There are pluses and minuses to both methods like working on a creeper requires several bandages and a trip or two to the ER to remove foreign crap from your eyes and stitch those head wounds! Flipping the frame will result in questionable judgement and a lot of walk time to reflect on just what we may have forgotten! Then there is a concern about what if!? The chain breaks the gantry fails or a UFO perceives you as a threat! With the drilling and working on a new never drilled frame I think I would flip it! Just my humble opinion!


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Old 08-31-2014, 05:51 PM   #247
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For sure I would flip it. Put the decking on, then turn it over and insulate, run any wiring and put in the fresh water tank, then get all the insulation installed and seal it up with aluminum. I worked upside down and got an eye injury for my trouble, you don't want to go there if you dont have to.
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Old 08-31-2014, 07:26 PM   #248
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For sure I would flip it. Put the decking on, then turn it over and insulate, run any wiring and put in the fresh water tank, then get all the insulation installed and seal it up with aluminum. I worked upside down and got an eye injury for my trouble, you don't want to go there if you dont have to.

But should I remove the axles or leave them on?



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Old 08-31-2014, 08:04 PM   #249
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

I think I would leave them on.

I cant see a down side.
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Old 09-01-2014, 05:48 AM   #250
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But should I remove the axles or leave them on?



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You could probably go either way. If your gantry setup can handle the weight then you could flip it with them on, just take off the wheels. You should have enough of a gap to slide the aluminum under the axle mount flange.

I swapped axles from underneath and its a PIA to have to jack them up and get them to align with the holes. The axles probably weigh a couple hundred each.
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:46 AM   #251
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It's settled then, leaving those axles in place. If I leave the tires on there will be more weight but then I could put down some pallets or wood and have the tires rest on that when the frame is on its side.

Any good recommendations for adhesive to glue to wood flooring to the frame prior to bolting it down? I recall Colin Hyde does that at his shop before installing the elevator bolts. Perhaps it is not necessary since the floor will be secured mechanically.... I know he flips his restorations on their side when doing the elevator bolts to speed up the attachment process so maybe that is the reason for the glue.

My only concern regarding fit is the rear curved section of floor which I had to remake using a template and the 75 percent of the floor that survived the rot. If it doesn't fit I will just have to trim it in place.

Lots to think about with this going together so quickly, fresh water supply, gas lines, trailer brake wiring, etc. With 5-6 whole work days to get the shell riveted back on including fully buttoning up the belly pan having a solid game plan with most of the parts on scene is critical. Too many trips to Lowes or HD will really slow things down, but then again with this FL heat we may need the break hehe


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Old 09-01-2014, 09:58 AM   #252
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You are really making good progress. Yes, the project list is quite long when building a trailer. Take a moment and jot down all the major items you have to integrate into your design, from subfloor to new vent seals. Having a solid plan avoids a bunch of "do overs" because something was forgotten or didn't fit.

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Old 09-01-2014, 11:56 AM   #253
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I would think the only part of the gas lines you could run flipped would be the main trunk, assuming it was removed intact and didnt get damaged. All the copper off that should be run once the trailer is back together and the appliances are in place. Fresh water lines same way. Just have the tank in place. You may want to run leads off the tank level sensor since once its boxed in, you really cant access them otherwise. The wiring for the brakes is coming down from shell, so probably only thing you can do is make sure there is a hole going down for each axle on each side with a grommet or maybe you can fashion some sort of tube from the wood through to the belly pan to route it.

The subfloor isnt glued down, at least it isnt from the factory. Not sure I would do it, the self drilling bolts seem to hold it down pretty well and it could cause problems for a future owner.

You may be able to do some of the bathroom drain plumbing while its flipped. Depends on whether you are putting everything back the same or making mods and have got that all figured out. I wouldnt go ape over trying to do every last thing you can while its flipped. You are going to have to spend some time on your back getting it hooked back together since somethings have to be done with connections from the shell. HTH
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Old 09-03-2014, 08:19 AM   #254
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Ok got some work done in the last few evenings prepping for the coming week. Wet sanded with 600 grit and then topcoated the POR15 with POR15 sterling silver. Recommend using a foam brush and 2 coats to minimize brushmarks. This stuff just doesn't self level like the POR15 black undercoating so don't be it surprised if it doesn't look super smooth.

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Here is a look at the new underpan for the fresh water my welder made up.

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Since I had some leftover black POR15 and the stuff supposedly doesn't last long I painted all the worn and rough looking WD gear and my truck hitch, I even painted my trucks rusty exhaust. I also coated the c channels in a few sections where there was some corrosion from the original steel bolts. Picture doesn't show it well but it looks pretty sharp!

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Still need to get the flange for the rear end fabricated. This piece will cover the end grain of the floor unlike the factory design which allowed water to penetrate the rear near the trunk.

I figure it will go up the back around 4 inches, bend 90, then go down the trunk area around 3 inches. I am using 5052 that I have 2 rolls of my the belly skin.

Can I make it the full length of the rear crossmember? The body curves at the edges and I am not sure if the 5052 in .032 could bend in that compound curve for a few inches or if I should just flash the straight section leaving the ends exposed.





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Old 09-03-2014, 12:17 PM   #255
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My two cents, being obsessive about sealing off the rear completely, is to leave nothing exposed. If the curve of the flashing cannot be shrunk into the angles as the arc of the floor comes into the frame rail corners, I would go the snip and tuck and seal route to close the flashing to the trunk wall underneath. Then the flat, horizontal part of the frame rail, as it goes under the subfloor, will obviously need its own flashing. I hope that makes sense.

I closed in my trunk a little differently - http://www.airforums.com/forums/f4/s...-a-119687.html - but I really like your beefed-up frame work in that area. Enjoying following your progress.

Have fun,
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:23 AM   #256
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Millertime's rear bathroom rot '76 Tradewind thread

Alan nice work on securing the rear of your trailer. While mine is a little different since I had my welder fully box in my rear bumper trunk I think I can get it pretty well sealed.

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It's great having a full sheet metal shop at your work. They even let me bend it myself. Learned a lot, who knew metal had grain and that you should design your breaks across or diagonal to the grain? Luckily mine didn't split during the bend with the grain being with the split. Also had my first chance using the HF metal shears. They worked awesome, just tough to cut a perfectly straight line freehand.




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Old 09-06-2014, 06:07 PM   #257
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Surge week has begun, only a half day since my family didn't get into town until a little after noon.

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Frame in position

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Dry fitting the new floor into place, the tounge and groove required some adjustments since once closed they are not truly 48 in wide.

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Me with my helper, we countersunk the elevator bolts from VTS across each crossmember then attached them with a washer and nut from underneath.

The smaller 2 center frame members that run lengthwise require self tapping screws. I got 25 from VTS but need to pickup some more from HD. Sunday is a rest day for us then back at it Monday. First thing is to finish securing the floor, then we will get the frame flipped on its side and start on underbody insulation, tanks, and plumbing.




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Old 09-06-2014, 07:16 PM   #258
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That is the house next door right? I just tossed a working weed wacker wished I had known you needed one cuz I am always willing to help a swabby in need! Lol mine looked worse but now it's cleaned up since I just finished the lawn mower repair! Oh yes good job on the floor! Not really knocking you on your yard work just felt the need to poke a sailor no insult intended! Wishing you good weather for the frame work! Thanks for the pictures.
Cliff


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Old 09-06-2014, 08:10 PM   #259
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Cliff that is my O5 colonel USMC neighbor's house Semper Fi!


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Old 09-06-2014, 08:20 PM   #260
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Figures! My condolences maybe you will have better luck with your next housing unit! Still awesome job on the floor!
Cliff


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