I’ve had the same issue with water leaking. In my case, it was caused by the clear plastic cover over the skylight (not any of the vents). There are screws that hold it in place and the seal around the screws can fail. Also, small cracks may form where the screws are attached. I was able to fix it by cleaning the screws, then using waterproof caulking over each screw. I know that some owners have replaced their skylight too, but my fix was worked fine for at least a couple of years.
When I power washed the roof this Spring had a little water come in again, but I was spraying sideways over the skylight to get leaves out and forced water under the clear cover.
I know there is prob a topic started in the main forums but was wondering who all is running solar panels. I would like to add some to keep my onboard batteries charged but have no idea what I would need or where to start. Thanks for any help in advance. God Bless and Air on.
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A Real Pawnguy... "when life gives you lemons, make lemonade"
You may know this but I would use the search--> google search function and search solar and read for an hour or two - I've done the same thing and lots of good info on those threads
I have a generator (actually going to pick it up today) but solar for nicer climates not requiring/desiring AC use seems a great thing to have. Down the road when we are able to travel for longer periods of time out and about the US - I will want some solar
Good luck
I think Lewster is a good resource on solar - PM him also - he does installations as well
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__________________ “The atoms of our bodies are traceable to stars that manufactured them...We are not figuratively, but literally stardust.”
I have two solar panels on my bunkhouse. I had them installed at Jackson Center and we have really enjoyed them way more than we expected. When i bought the bunk we knew we wanted to dry camp alot, the solar panels have made it so easy without the whole generator mess. Also relocated batteries and use two large 6volt now.
Having read and read and read...watched a whole bunch of youtube vids....I am thoroughly impressed by the various solar setups people have.
PS - the photons that hit the panels....they were generated within the sun something like 100 million years ago and did a "walk" through the interior of the sun until finally exiting at the surface, 8 min later hiting the panel generating electricity....
That may not be relevant, but, hey there ya go
__________________ “The atoms of our bodies are traceable to stars that manufactured them...We are not figuratively, but literally stardust.”
I had posted looking for a quick reply because as my name states I own and run a pawn shop. I had a customer that had come in to sell some BP solar sx320j panels. They are oil rig units that was never put on an oil rig. Tested out units with a simple multi meter out in the sun. The units are stated to be 20 watt units but tested on meter at 21.2 watts. Items are new in box with power cord and controller box but really had no idea about them. Went ahead and bought 3-20 watt ones. Have an option to buy 2 brand new 60 watt ones as well. Just have no clue how many watts a guy would need to power 2-12 volt deep cycle batts. Thanks for info. It's greatly appreciated.
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A Real Pawnguy... "when life gives you lemons, make lemonade"
I have two 140watt panels. I never run out of power, but we do not have a big inverter running AC power loads. We can watch movies at night, read with lights or whatever without worring about power. Usually back up to 13.4+ volts by 10am if we have good weather. I have seen it charge 16 amps!
You may know this but I would use the search--> google search function and search solar and read for an hour or two - I've done the same thing and lots of good info on those threads
I have a generator (actually going to pick it up today) but solar for nicer climates not requiring/desiring AC use seems a great thing to have. Down the road when we are able to travel for longer periods of time out and about the US - I will want some solar
Good luck
I think Lewster is a good resource on solar - PM him also - he does installations as well
I've been trying to get a better copy of the 12V wiring in our trailers. There are two on pages G-25 and G-26 of our owners manual but they are next to impossible to read as-printed, especially on G-26. I've inquired with Airstream via the customer service form if they could send me a scan of higher-resolution PDF of the original (Airstream drawings 511831-01 and 511830-01). The response was that those drawing have been updated over the years to the newer models and the old ones are no longer available. Does anyone out there have copies for one reason or another that they could share?
As an aside, I find it quite strange that Airstream updated the drawings and did not retain old ones / previous revisions. Working at a corporation that deals a lot with making drawings for parts, I know that we NEVER get rid of drawings and past revisions are available. Even the old stuff on vellum has been either scanned or re-drawn in CAD over the years as we have cleaned out the old stuff. Seems weird that Airstream hasn't kept anything. I wanted to reply to Airstream as such, but I'm a blunt guy and can't come up with a nice way to say: I think you didn't look hard enough. Call someone in design across the parking lot and ask them for the drawings.
Jason,
My diagram is slightly clearer than the one online, it will sill take a magnifying glass to read.
When I am home next week I will send you a copy if you don't get one sooner.
Later
Dave
Thanks, Dave. No rush. I likely won't do the project until next spring.
Just considering replacing the front and rear crank-up vents with fantastic fans. I can see that there is pre-wire in the front bedroom, but looks like there's nothing pre-done in the bunk area. So, I am mostly interested in knowing which color wire is +12 and ground. Seems like good ol' red and black isn't a given anymore.
Thanks, Dave. No rush. I likely won't do the project until next spring.
Just considering replacing the front and rear crank-up vents with fantastic fans. I can see that there is pre-wire in the front bedroom, but looks like there's nothing pre-done in the bunk area. So, I am mostly interested in knowing which color wire is +12 and ground. Seems like good ol' red and black isn't a given anymore.
Probably...or maybe....black is B+ and white is ground. But, I have found pretty inconsistent coloring in mine.
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-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
Send an email to swallace@airstream.com (parts department) with the make and model of your bunkhouse and they will provide you with a drawing of your fresh water tank and the location of your sensor. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions. I own the same trailer and have replaced sensors in the past. Troy(314)749-9579
I finally got around to doing this today. Airstream got back with me in a few hours with all of the info that you said they would. I am surprised that they are willing to do this for customers. I expect if I were to do this every day though that they would likely stop responding to me. I am also surprised that Airstream no longer makes the "service manuals" like they used to. The '74 trailer and '77 motorhome that I had both had pretty good service manuals from airstream which told you how to get apart and check almost everything. I guess now you have to use the forums or email / call the factory!
Anyway, here's the scoop on the fresh water sensor direct from Airstream. I'm not thrilled about the cutting a hole in the belly pan part, though.
*****************
Please see attached drawing on location of sensor/and pictures. Talked with Dan in Customer Service....if you have any question you can contact Dan (937)596-6111 ext. 7408.
Once you locate the sensor on the tank you can cut the pan, Dan normally cuts a 6"-8" hole in the bottom of the pan near the sensor to access the sensor. You may also run into Styrofoam that will also need to be cut.
Part numbers are listed below if you need to order:
511788-01 Monitor panel, CATCON Micropulse
511789-01 BOOT-SENSOR #500-20010-05
511789 SENSOR, TANK MONITOR
511286-01 WIRE FLAT TELEPHONE 26 GA. BLACK
511286-02 WIRE FLAT TELEPHONE 26 GA. IVORY
511252 PLUG PHONE 4 CONDUCTOR
511393 COUPLER-MODULAR EXTENSION, 4 CONDUCTOR
511817 COUPLER, IN LINE PHONE JACK
I can't remember if I've introduced myself in this thread or not but we are recent new owners of Shirley, our 2005 Safari 30' Bunk. I'm Tiffany and my husband and I started full-timing 01/01/15 and it has been fantastic and crazy so far. This thread (and Airforums in general) have been crucial to us making it so far.
Anyway, one area I haven't been able to see much of is the bathroom area. I am posting a photo of our current mirror set-up and was wondering if the upper (angled) mirror is original or if a previous owner installed it? My main reason for asking is if anyone has an alternative? I find the angle quite frustrating for make up application/taking out contacts/etc. And the mirror on the sidewall cubby is not functional except for allowing people to watch your business from outside the shade. I plan to cover up the cubby mirror with some sort of corkboard, hanging storage type of cover so as not to have to open the cubby door every time we use the restroom.
I'm wondering if a small medicine cabinet type mirror could be installed above the light/water heater switch without too much work? If anyone has done anything to this area or can give me any further details, pics of your set-up, etc., I greatly thank you in advance! Happy to be a part of such an awesome group and community and hope to see you on the road soon!
-Tiffany
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2005 30 Safari Bunkhouse
I'm restless. Things are calling me away. My hair is being pulled by the stars again. -Anais Nin
Ours has the same setup, so I assume that it is from the factory. The mirror works well for me (6'2" tall) for shaving. I wear contacts as well, but I put mine on while in bed so that if I drop one, it's easier to find. Coming from older Airstreams with bigger bathrooms than this one, we went through a learning curve as well. We have kept everything original and bought some plastic containers to holds on to things inside the storage behind the mirror in the cabinet.
Tiffany - I just removed that wonderful mirror from our 2006 30' bunkhouse today. It was a bit of a pain, but we got it off safely. It is held by a lot of white mastic/clips to a piece of plywood that is screwed into the will along with the clips. Basically used a piece of wire threaded back behind to saw it out, then removed the screws. Makes the bathroom seem 1/3 larger with it gone.
Will replace it with an articulated mirror from Bed, Bath, and Beyond secured to the bulkhead and put a small shelf on the wall to hold items while camping.
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