Poll Barn Dimensions?

[Bcc75]

Originally Posted by Spaggs

That is the idea I was looking for

After looking at all the responses, I definitely will go to 12’ high for resale value. I would have never thought of that.

I like the idea of a more open approach, for cost because we are are on the hunt for either a place on the beach, where the wind blows or the Rocky’s, where the air is dry; Doctor’s orders. Plus, we have a feral cat that takes care of rodents.

Looks like the 36’ for depth is what we need for the 28 footer ( four feet overhang front/back. How long is your AS in the pic?

I may go 16 1/2’ wide to put an even 4’ on each side.

Thanks very much for the responses. Those pics of enclosed barns are very impressive. We may wind up with that type of enclosure at our next residence.

I sent you a PM

[Shinytoaster]

Posted this on another link - but seems prevent here....

Still a work in progress... 16 months later the concrete was FINALLY poured and spent the last 10 days watering the concrete 3-4 times a day. Should have read about the 'dam' method earlier.

The final size is 40x60 barn that I'll eventual close in with a 20x26 apron.

I'm lucky enough to have a decent size solar array on the main house that can power a barn, as well as a shop and the Airstreams AC when needed as Florida humidity is an issue.

I'm going to section off a 20'x40' area at the back for some air conditioned space and running power there now (hopefully 150amps will be more than enough).

Certainly live and learn. I made it 20' too short (for a 20' deep shop at the back) and still fit the 325 in with room to maneuver. The only place I could put a 12' high roller door was the middle. That meant I needed more doors on both sides to have access once the bus is in there (32.5' long so no space to move other stuff in and out).

I think the solution is going to be to put a set of swings door on the left (roller door won't fit - not high enough), and put the bus down there (11' high on the side). Just not a fan of swing doors, especially for keeping rodents out... at least my level of carpentry. I'll put the 12x12 roller door in the middle.. that give plenty of access and (as said previously) aid resale.

It seems there's always more space needed and if you have the room it's not a lot more to make bigger... tho' the concrete on mine was feking expensive.

Fun project tho - looking forward to getting the walls on then getting serious about restoring the 325.

[howell57]

Not only would I think of your need but also if you sell to someone who needs more RV height clearance. Ever see the bridge clearance signs the say 13' 5". That extra height shouldn't costs that much. You could then crawl up to to do some work if need be??

[2008RN]

Originally Posted by Spaggs

That is the idea I was looking for

After looking at all the responses, I definitely will go to 12’ high for resale value. I would have never thought of that.

I like the idea of a more open approach, for cost because we are are on the hunt for either a place on the beach, where the wind blows or the Rocky’s, where the air is dry; Doctor’s orders. Plus, we have a feral cat that takes care of rodents.

Looks like the 36’ for depth is what we need for the 28 footer ( four feet overhang front/back. How long is your AS in the pic?

I may go 16 1/2’ wide to put an even 4’ on each side.

Thanks very much for the responses. Those pics of enclosed barns are very impressive. We may wind up with that type of enclosure at our next residence.

I think you got it, just built a 14x30 for a 23' Oliver with a 12' opening. I ended up with 3.5' per side of extra space. If I had the extra space I would have gone 16' x36'. but we were pushing the limits with what land we have left

[Backfortyjoe]

Originally Posted by Spaggs

We just took delivery of our new 28.’ We would like to build a pole barn to keep it clean. Good thing we didn’t already have one because when it rained two days ago, like cats and dogs, it proved two leaks.
Anyway, what is/are your recommendation(s) for size with a 3” Dexter lift kit. I think that makes it an even 10’ tall.
I would like the sides to be somewhat open so my feral cat can keep the rodents away.
Thanks.

I have a 36X45 pole barn, I have a ten foot sliding door and it clears by a couple of inches. You would need a 12' door for sure. There would be plenty of room and maybe a bit too big like mine. But I have filled it up with boats ATV's and other toys etc.

[Life is a Highway]

I'd go higher on the ceiling and door if you lift the trailer or want to work up on the roof. But its not my money only my dream. Sorry about the trailer leak keep us posted on that find-

Originally Posted by Spaggs

That is the idea I was looking for

After looking at all the responses, I definitely will go to 12’ high for resale value. I would have never thought of that.

I like the idea of a more open approach, for cost because we are are on the hunt for either a place on the beach, where the wind blows or the Rocky’s, where the air is dry; Doctor’s orders. Plus, we have a feral cat that takes care of rodents.

Looks like the 36’ for depth is what we need for the 28 footer ( four feet overhang front/back. How long is your AS in the pic?

I may go 16 1/2’ wide to put an even 4’ on each side.

Thanks very much for the responses. Those pics of enclosed barns are very impressive. We may wind up with that type of enclosure at our next residence.

[Shinytoaster]

Hi - nice barn!

Did you use steel or wood trusses?

For better or worse I went with steel (40' x 60') and am having a hard run of it figuring out how to seal up the ends of barn with no wooden cross/trusses to screw to...trying to avoid having to run a whole new wooden facia to bolt to, but might not have much choice. Made a few barn-building-rookie mistakes darn it...

Wood would have been a lot lot easier! Especially with sealing for bugs and critters etc.

Pete

Originally Posted by bweybright

here is mine. 36 deep by 40 wide. Middle bay is 14 door for resale later as a 5th wheel would fit. side bays are 12x12 door.Attachment 416585

Attachment 416586

[Shinytoaster]

My barn started out being part DIY part contractor with and estimate of $40K fully enclosed with a 6' concrete floor (40x60).

Now way way way over budget with the increase in prices... and they keep going up. I still haven't brought the roller doors yet but they've had 3 price increases since the first quote ($9K now closer to $13K for the same thing). I'm sure some of it is local (small college town) but it's painful.

Thought about holding off for prices to settle back, but that could be years away (if ever) and I have too much stuff under tarps deteriorating (Florida).

[Mike1997]

[IMG]C:\Users\Micha\Pictures\20210729_204718.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG][http://C:\Users\Micha\Pictures\20210728_175019.jpg[/QUOTE][/IMG]
My pole barn was built in 2021 on an old tennis court. It measures 50x30 with 16, height. My Airstream is 36' long and 11' tall so this allows space to do roof maintenance and storage for up to 9 cars. Future plans are to enclose the structure and add full utilities plus a bathroom.
Cost to date is $14,000.

It was positioned at the end of the tennis court so that additional parking could be provided. Its also large enough that I can turn 180 deg and back into the garage without doing 3 point turns.

I will also say that this structure has added a huge amount of value to the property which has increased over $100k in the last 12 months.

[Mike1997]

Wow, this looks great!! However I am sure the concrete was expensive. Fortunately I bought a house with an old tennis court which is holding up well except for the levelers when extended. Punched 2 holes in it but fixed with asphalt repair.

[MarkW]

Originally Posted by Spaggs

We just took delivery of our new 28.’ We would like to build a pole barn to keep it clean. Good thing we didn’t already have one because when it rained two days ago, like cats and dogs, it proved two leaks.
Anyway, what is/are your recommendation(s) for size with a 3” Dexter lift kit. I think that makes it an even 10’ tall.
I would like the sides to be somewhat open so my feral cat can keep the rodents away.
Thanks.

My Flying Cloud 27FB has almost the exact dimensions as your RV. We have a 15’x31’x12’ tall carport. Works great!

[Spaggs]

Originally Posted by MarkW

My Flying Cloud 27FB has almost the exact dimensions as your RV. We have a 15’x31’x12’ tall carport. Works great!

Any pics?

[DewTheDew]

This is a side note regarding pouring concrete for a pole barn or similar. The best piece of advice I received was to put a one or two pieces large (4"?) diameter of PVC pipe into the dirt near the edges before you pour the concrete so later if you decide to run water into the barn later you can keep the whole incoming line below ground until it is inside the barn. It just gives you a few nice-sized holes to run things through the floor (keep them near the edge, of course, and you can cut them level with the solidified concrete so they aren't in the way).

[MarkW]

[QUOTE=Spaggs;2604578]Any pics?[/QUOTE

[Spaggs]

That’s pretty cool and that’s the size I’m looking for.

[MarkW]

Originally Posted by Spaggs

That’s pretty cool and that’s the size I’m looking for.

Sorry they weren’t upside down when I posted them. It works great for us. Three men put it up in about six hours.

[GettinAway]

We went with 18’ wide on our carport. In the process now of putting galvanized gates across the front for additional theft protection. We store our 25FB at our farm, so it goes weeks without us checking on it. Just have a gravel floor, but park the trailer up on 2 x 12s.
It’s completely shaded in now. And survived 100+ mph straight line winds last summer.

[Shinytoaster]

Good points - also… if you are running 4/0-4/0-4/0 -2 wire, keeping any bends in the pipe minimal will make life a lot easier. I made the mistake of putting 2 90deg turns (very odd layout). Was almost impossible to get the wire through. Would have been better to use 2x45 deg for each turn.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by DewTheDew

This is a side note regarding pouring concrete for a pole barn or similar. The best piece of advice I received was to put a one or two pieces large (4"?) diameter of PVC pipe into the dirt near the edges before you pour the concrete so later if you decide to run water into the barn later you can keep the whole incoming line below ground until it is inside the barn. It just gives you a few nice-sized holes to run things through the floor (keep them near the edge, of course, and you can cut them level with the solidified concrete so they aren't in the way).

[Shinytoaster]

I'd say lock in your prices as soon as you can. They just keep going up.

The last issue I've had is no wire to run out to the barn so ended up having to put in a 200A line... way over kill and over twice what I needed (or needed to pay) - ouch!

[bweybright]

Interesting how things vary across the country. My electrician moved me up to 200 amp, bonded the floor so it could repurpose for animals or a grow operation, and installed an 50/30 amp rv box. Because I had a 30 amp box he needed for a customer and I said use it my friend....I don't need it now.
Recently I needed more work that he was to busy for but directed me to a resource where the work cost nothing.
I guess my point is when I first met him I said I was not bidding, he was referred and I will pay his price. He was a bit surprised but said yes to the job and treated me very nice.

Message being...don't always look cheap, look for relation ship and respect for their trade.


To the original post, do definitely lock in soon, establish a relationship and things can/will work out to all sides benefit.