A/C ripped off by carport -- repair strategy

[Jason in TX]

Hey!! I saw this rig advertised and I'm glad someone is buying it! (We live in Texas) Shame that it took the top off, but seems like a nice trailer none the less.

Hammer and measurements will be your friend. Prep time is always the longest time. Work the damaged areas on the roof for a long time until they are as perfect as you can get them. This might take 8 hours or 80 hours, but be patient. If you are putting a skylight there, get is as good as you can and then ad gobs of sealant. You should be good to go.

Again, congrats!

[Jason in TX]

One more response as I just re-read your original post. You want to protect the opening while you transport it.

Mythbusters built a BOAT out of duct tape. Clean up the hole and start slapping duct tape on. Dont' be shy! Get after it! I think that will be your best bet. Going down the road it will try to puff UP. The negative pressure over the trailer will try to pull the duct tape out of the hole. TAke it wide on the top of the roof, and if you wanted to also duct tape some bungies into the tape and attach them to something inside the trailer to pull back down, that might be a good idea also.

Bring a tarp in the truck for your overnight stop, but I'm 1000% positive you already thought of a tarp. Happy Air Streaming and thanks for saving one from the scrapper!

( I also work on very old cars and anything can be saved if you have the patience and will )

[Foiled Again]

Those endcap segments will be EXPENSIVE to replace but could roll out pretty well if you can take down the cabinet that is inside and roll back the center top pice of interior aluminum. Some people have successfully used a partly inflated basketball to coax the big "boing" dents back into shape and do a search on "dent roller for sale for resistant creases. From the photos, most of the damage wouldn't be visible except from above. SUNLIGHT often softens old hail damage, so don't stress over minor stuff. Reseal the seams and rivets meticulously. Use a good sealant/protector/polish over scrapes in the clearcoat.

Oh and since the skylight is also toast, contact Maxim skylights. Mine is SO much better than OEM. They don't install, but are located in Texas ... maybe on your route. If not, they do ship reasonably.

Predented does lower your stress level. Good journey.

Paula

[J. Morgan]

I'd just cut out the more damaged areas and overlay the area with an appropriate sized patch.

No need to reinvent the wheel for an area no one will ever see, and still, it would look good if done well.

[Ray Eklund]

Solar, my friend. You saved labor costs removing the AC. Very smart as a fox individual. Although, there are easier ways, but would still have a large hole to work with, either way.

Do the repairs to cover, insulate and water proof. Add two Solar Panels. They look sexy and if they work... that may be better than what you have now. With solar, it will probably fit under the car port.

A Win / Win!

[Iansk]

That's why I love this forum. Folks willing to help others.[/QUOTE]

Texas has taught me well. I also love aluminum and trailers and trailers that are aluminum and problem solving...

An interesting side note to this story: Airxcel the maker of Coleman brand rooftop AC units mistakenly sent me an interior hold down plate for their AC units, when I called them to correct it they said “keep it”. This happened since I posted earlier. I’m looking at this thing wondering what I could do with it? This would be a perfect pair with a cut of plywood and a spare gasket kit (which I also have) for a long distance haul.

Just a thought...

Ian

[SandKSmith]

Regarding the big dents: have a Paintless dent repair guy take a look at them before replacing panels or trying it yourself. I’ve seen them work miracles.

[Spartan Rick]

I replaced the windows on my Spartanette for transport with plywood. Inside, 2x lumber is better as you can screw through the plywood into the solid wood, lots quicker than bolts and nuts. I would think about roofing adhesive backed 'ice dam' product, or plastic held down with Gorilla tape. I would take the patch up to the forward vent so you avoid a 'leading edge'.. Thinking it might be good to seal it first, then the plywood to hold it tight, then plastic etc over the top as well.. Might be over-kill, maybe even weather-stripping under the plywood, squeezed by screwing it down.. You can also put wood strips over it screwed through again..
Check if you can take along a cordless drill or just borrow it.
Good luck, enjoy.
Cheers, Rick

[mythbuster88]

Originally Posted by Streamracer

I'd go to a big box store and buy a piece of thin aluminum, sheetmetal screws and some sealer to cover the hole until you get home to repair fully and correctly. Good luck

Great idea here.
Looks fixable to me!
The hardest part is working on the roof.

[Paprika]

Suggestion: rather than Gorilla or other tape, use 3M 2425 no-residue duct tape. It's very strong, but as the name suggests, doesn't leave adhesive behind--no solvent cleanup needed. It's been my standard all-purpose duct tape for some time, and has never let me down.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by doughpat

. . .
Coincidentally, the 'modification' is what actually allows me to buy the AS, because: 1.) I can afford it now and 2.) It now fits in my 9' carport!
. . .

Your observation is admirably pragmatic!

Peter

[Iansk]

Originally Posted by doughpat

MMmm, gotta say I like my current deal better. 20 years newer, 3 feet larger, and already has the A/C removed

I hear what you're saying. The deal I'm going for has a lower resale value because of the damage, but in my opinion the discount is large enough to justify it.

And at this point, they money is already paid so....I'm committed!

Well? How’d the rest of your trip go? Inquiring minds and all that...

Ian

[Drewkonopka5]

My first post so bear with me.
I have replaced the ac on 09 FC. The ac is held in by framing larger than the cut out using long connecting bolts. Thus you have two ribs in the opening that you can rivet too. Bear in mind the ac uses 120V, make sure any loose wires are capped and insulated.

Using plywood on top and a 2x4 on the inside held in with long bolts as suggested earlier will be safe and will work. Use any silicon for a sealant. Goof off takes silicon off.

Plan 2. Since you plan to cover the opening you can get some big box store aluminum, beat down the edges , seal the perimeter with a sealant, and rivet the new aluminum in.

[doughpat]

Ok everyone, a bit of an update: made it from Austin back to Oregon without any major hitches. I used gorilla tape (two rolls!) and a piece of 2x2 plywood and just went crazy on the roof holes. I screwed down through the plywood into a cross beam (a concrete stake) that was secured from the subside. Sorta clamped it as many of you recommmended.

Hit at least some rain every day (afternoon). Did have some water drip into the cabin through a busted/missing rivet in the ceiling. That was disappointing but it was pretty heavy rain for several hours. I’ll have to think about ways to let whatever water in, out. Fortunately I live in the high desert so it should (eventually) dry out.

Thanks to you all for your suggestions—I used them all!

Now time to really think through my repair plan.

[doughpat]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

The good news is a roof A/C is designed to fit a standard 14" x 14" roof vent. So you can plug the hole with a vent.
Then fixing the rip is the big issue. Get it as smooth as possible then lots of Eternabond tape and or VHB tape. Maybe a patch with an aluminum sheet and pop rivets.
Nobody looks at the roof. Leaks are the issue.

I think your strategy is pretty much what I'm going to do, but I had one question regarding your reply: It seems the most common rivet suggestion for a "blind" installation (ie only accessible on one side) is to use Olympic rivets. Is there a reason you suggested "pop rivets"?

(Wondering if maybe Olympic rivets are considered a "type" of pop rivet).

[Jason in TX]

Originally Posted by doughpat

Is there a reason you suggested "pop rivets"?

(Wondering if maybe Olympic rivets are considered a "type" of pop rivet).

Olympic Rivets don't actually pop the stud off. You draw them tight and then snip off the stud with cutters and then shave. Olympic rivets are for cosmetic repairs where you want it to look like a blind rivet. On the roof, no one sees that area and you would most likely cover any type of rivet with dicor sealant anyways so may not be worth it to spend all that time shaving beautiful rivets to look like blind rivets.

But I'll let the original poster speak to his intent. I'm just guessing.

[doughpat]

Got it. I went ahead and ordered Olympic rivers because I read they are also more sturdy. I’ll probably just nip the stub off as cleanly as I can with some side cutters and call it good, won’t bother to shave/file.

[azflycaster]

I have done a few on roofs and filed them a little with a dremel tool and they looked pretty good.