My solution for the rear storage rust problem - I hope

[englewoodfl]

Completely disgusted by the rust in the rear storage compartment. Scrubbed that away. Plan 1 was to 3D print some tiles that would provide spacing - but I looked a the time and cost - said NO. Bought a package of six of these from the big "A". All I had to do was cut one for the end.

[nvestysly]

That's an interesting floor you've installed. It will let the dirt fall to the floor and it can be flushed out easily - sort of like a grill in the bottom of a kitchen sink allows food particles and dirt to be flushed down the drain while having a load of dishes in the sink.

However, I don't understand how this relates to your comment about rust. I guess it allows most of the floor to remain dry after the hose dries. The many points of contact between the standoffs on the bottom of the tiles may continue to be a point of moisture concentration and therefore allow the floor to rust.

Is your floor made of steel? Mine is made of aluminum.

On edit: please provide a link, or better yet, the brand/size/etc. for the tiles you purchased. Thanks

[ROBERT CROSS]

One of the first 'improvements' I did on 'Cloudsplitter'

All compartments done...17yrs SFSG.

Here is a link to the 'tiles' I used on our boat...pretty much the same.

Bob
🇺🇸

[englewoodfl]

The bottom in our 2023 is just sheet metal (less expensive than aluminum). With the solid mat that AS put on top of it there was complete contact. It also covered up the small drain holes along the front. After one of the few rains that we had there was still water ponded the next day. The tiles are plastic and the contact surface is small. I also used a step drill in each corner.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by englewoodfl

The bottom in our 2023 is just sheet metal (less expensive than aluminum). With the solid mat that AS put on top of it there was complete contact. It also covered up the small drain holes along the front. After one of the few rains that we had there was still water ponded the next day. The tiles are plastic and the contact surface is small. I also used a step drill in each corner.

I would suggest to you that you're not done with your fix. Although mine is a different layout, it is prone to the same exposure. I tried prepping and painting a couple times with rustoleum, it soon failed and the rust continued. A ton of prep and por15 is the answer. These are the stepped pics of repeated acid treatments with the por15 kit. After 4 years, I've had to touch up some chips, but no more pealing and rusting.




For some reason, I didn't take a pic of the painted final product, but it's black.
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[ROBERT CROSS]

This is great stuff, won't hurt mother nature either.

Bob
🇺🇸

[dznf0g]

Englewood, it is very hard to tell from your initial post, but I would think that your compartment floor is probably galvanized (Robert's and mine are). Galvanized is notoriously difficult to adhere paint to. That is why the extraordinary prepping is required. I would add that, as a last step, once the acid no longer produced the black oxidation, was a mechanical etching of the surface with a mouse sander and 80 grit paper. Then a final wash, thorough drying and por15 paint with a brush.

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[DaveG]

Once aluminum now steel?
(The price increases were for?)

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

… Galvanized is notoriously difficult to adhere paint to……

We have a rental property that the pest control svc placed galvanized sheet metal covers at various areas of trim to keep squirrels from knawing in attempts to gain access to the attic. When I asked the painter to paint them the same color as the trim in order to make them less visible…… he first painted them with vinegar (ascetic acid)… then when dry, painted them with ordinary exterior paint suitable for metal, computer-tinted to match. Been two years now and no peeling. Looks great.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Boxite

We have a rental property that the pest control svc placed galvanized sheet metal covers at various areas of trim to keep squirrels from knawing in attempts to gain access to the attic. When I asked the painter to paint them the same color as the trim in order to make them less visible…… he first painted them with vinegar (ascetic acid)… then when dry, painted them with ordinary exterior paint suitable for metal, computer-tinted to match. Been two years now and no peeling. Looks great.

I question whether vinegar is.strong enough to etch adequately. Muratic acid, for sure. Time will tell for you.

My first washes were with vinegar, as the kit was short on por15 acid. Vinegar had some effect, but not much.

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[englewoodfl]

It's only a few months old so I'm hoping a cleanup of the galvanized will work. I had POR15 but I think it went when I took my reagent grade acids for plating to the county hazardous waste facility. I can get more.


AS obviously has lots of aluminum sheets - might just be a way to slightly reduce costs while making customers like me unhappy.

[Gibson3798]

Why would you put the sewer hose in the back compartment? Still missing something in that rationale.

[englewoodfl]

The regular sewer is stored in its place. Once with our Sprinter had to uncomfortable maneuver to get close enough. So that's why. Hopefully never have that again - would even be worse with the 23FBT behind.

[Jwf]

Maybe if Airstream would make a sewer hose storage that could accommodate after market houses you wouldn't have to store the house in the rear compartment. The sewer hose compartment is too small for the rhino hose couplers. Hence I have to store mine in the back.

[stevejones]

The rear compartment design on the newer trailers is stupid. The bottom is sheet metal (not galvanized as someone with an older trailer suggested), there are no proper drain holes, and they cover the sheet metal with a sheet of vinyl material that is made to look like diamond plate but is not. The lid for the compartment is open at each end so when it rains, water gets in the compartment and gets trapped beneath the vinyl sheet and the bottom and it rusts. Quickly.

I pitched the vinyl sheet, sanded the bottom down, drilled drain holes in the bottom sheet, primed with rust primer, and painted with bedliner. At least now the water drains out. Hopefully the rusting is slowed down.

[WestieHouse]

Originally Posted by stevejones

The rear compartment design on the newer trailers is stupid. The bottom is sheet metal (not galvanized as someone with an older trailer suggested), there are no proper drain holes, and they cover the sheet metal with a sheet of vinyl material that is made to look like diamond plate but is not. The lid for the compartment is open at each end so when it rains, water gets in the compartment and gets trapped beneath the vinyl sheet and the bottom and it rusts. Quickly.

I pitched the vinyl sheet, sanded the bottom down, drilled drain holes in the bottom sheet, primed with rust primer, and painted with bedliner. At least now the water drains out. Hopefully the rusting is slowed down.

Agree completely and did exactly the same procedure 2 years ago. I drilled additional drain holes in low spots and added a rubber open mesh matt by cutting a shop floor matt purchased at HD to size. The compartment remains in better than new condition. Another one of the silly cost saving ($5?) features of Airstream.

[One Smith]

After trying to find the source of the smell of something rotten, we finally found a very large and very dead toad/frog that had gotten into the rear compartment and couldn’t get out. It was about 4 inches long.

If you think you have problems with water intrusion and rust, imagine trying to find the source of the odor when you have a front bed trailer and a rear dinette. It took us two days to find the creature. Meanwhile, every time we ate we would get the faint odor of something dead.

Those compartments are definitely not sealed very well! LOL!!!

[DaveG]

Originally Posted by One Smith

After trying to find the source of the smell of something rotten, we finally found a very large and very dead toad/frog that had gotten into the rear compartment and couldn’t get out. It was about 4 inches long.

If you think you have problems with water intrusion and rust, imagine trying to find the source of the odor when you have a front bed trailer and a rear dinette. It took us two days to find the creature. Meanwhile, every time we ate we would get the faint odor of something dead.

Those compartments are definitely not sealed very well! LOL!!!

A trailer that's "toad" held together with "ribbetts", containing a croaked frog.......

(sorry, couldn't resist)

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by DaveG

A trailer that's "toad" held together with "ribbetts", containing a croaked frog.......

(sorry, couldn't resist)

Time's fun when you're having flies.
K. T. F.

Bob
🇺🇸

[GOUSC]

Originally Posted by stevejones

The rear compartment design on the newer trailers is stupid. The bottom is sheet metal (not galvanized as someone with an older trailer suggested), there are no proper drain holes, and they cover the sheet metal with a sheet of vinyl material that is made to look like diamond plate but is not. The lid for the compartment is open at each end so when it rains, water gets in the compartment and gets trapped beneath the vinyl sheet and the bottom and it rusts. Quickly.

I pitched the vinyl sheet, sanded the bottom down, drilled drain holes in the bottom sheet, primed with rust primer, and painted with bedliner. At least now the water drains out. Hopefully the rusting is slowed down.

I have a 2018 27’ Globetrotter. In my rear storage compartment, I believe the diamond plate actually is metal. It appears to me the plate is larger than the opening so I have no idea how to remove it since it is not flexible. Anyone have any ideas?