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BAB · 09-12-2012, 07:32 PM

...and with a TV that has an "autolevel" feature (as does my Infinity QX 56), I ALWAYS allow the auto level to do its thing before I separate the TV from the AS....otherwise it can get moderately noisy when the TV separates and it is higher (or lower) than the trailer. Am on a long trip right now. Had around 25-30 MPH wind gusts most of the day yesterday driving north from Iowa into Minnesota....wind was broadsiding the trailer, and at one point a semi blew around me -- the gust was strong enough to fold my outside mirror against the car (not the McKesh) -- a LOT of wind. You wouldn't have known it from the driver's seat, as the trailer was solid as a rock. Amazing performance! (Thanks, Sean!) Barry

Tigershark · 10-10-2012, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pattonsr

Greg,

Ask Sean if he has his service adapter ready for sale. On 10-13 I heard he was ready to release it. It allows the trailer to be towed at low speeds on a hitch ball.

Barry

This quote was from a year ago. Does anyone have any update on the availability of the "service adaptor" or "lot bar" for PP?

Ag&Au · 10-10-2012, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tigershark

This quote was from a year ago. Does anyone have any update on the availability of the "service adapter" or "lot bar" for PP?

I have not heard anything new as yet.
I initially thought this would be a must have, Since then I have taken a closer look at the hitch mounting. My concern initially was that I would have to go through a complete setup again if I removed it from the trailer to be serviced. However, I believe the hitch head with the weight bars still attached could be detached from the trailer in about 10-15 minutes. No adjustment would be effected. The jacks and rear yoke support bracket could remain in place. Reattaching it should be a similar ten or so minutes.

My other thought is to use a plain hitch receiver tube:

and have a hitch socket welded to it.

Obviously some research would be necessary to ensure there was sufficient strength.

Ken

Ridgerunner3 · 10-19-2012, 06:27 PM

My Propride hitch arrived this afternoon. I am about 75% finished with installing the parts. Fine tuning should start tomorrow afternoon. This thread and Sean's instructions have been very helpful with the install. Sean emailed me the instructions when I ordered the hitch, so I had several days to study the instructions and this thread. The planning and studying have paid off so far. I am running into the same common issues with the install.... 3.5" jack adjustment bolts too long for battery case location, propane tank tray needs to be elevated. I split a Craftsmen 15/16" socket while torquing the stinger bolts.

I spent the last few days sanding and painting the A frame and clearing the old dual cam hitch equipment off of the A frame. The hitch was extremely well packed for shipping. All of the parts appear to be top quality. Fit and finish is very good.

I am really looking forward to the improved towing experience everyone tells me about with this hitch.

slowmover · 10-20-2012, 07:21 PM

If we fill in the blanks, it will be easier:

(via the ever-handy Ron Gratz chart)

Weighing #1 -- TT attached and Weight Distribution Activated

Let Front Axle Load be "FA1"

Let Rear Axle Load be "RA1"

Let TT Axles Load be "TT1"

Then, while in same position on scales, take
Weighing #2 -- TT attached and Weight Distribution Not Activated

Let Front Axle Load be "FA2"

Let Rear Axle Load be "RA2"

Let TT Axles Load be "TT2"

Then, drive off scales and drop TT. Return to scales and take
Weighing #3 -- TV only -- TT Not Attached

Let Front Axle Load be "FA3"

Let Rear Axle Load be "RA3"

From the above values, you can calculate:

TV weight = FA3 + RA3

Gross Combined Weight = (FA1 + RA1 + TT1)
- should also be equal to (FA2 + RA2 + TT2) if scale weights are correct

TT Weight = Gross Combined Weight - TV Weight

Tongue Weight = (FA2 + RA2) - (FA3 + RA3), or

Load Transferred to TT Axles
when WD System in Activated = TT1 - TT2

.

MaxTow · 10-20-2012, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1grlscout

Platform Weight
1. 2900
2. 4320
3. 5620
4. 12840

Presumably #1 is Front Axle, #2 is Rear Axle, #3 is Trailer Axle(s) and #4 is Combined Weight.

Do you have the front and rear axle measurements from your trip to the CAT scales? (I'm assuming without the trailer).

Without knowing your vehicle, it looks like your weight distribution is not working. That would suggest that the hitch is not installed correctly. Had the professionals that installed your hitch actually installed one before?

I discussed with the service manager of a very well known (non-AS) dealer about installing mine - he had never heard of ProPride or Hensley. These are very niche products.

Post some photos of the hitch - there's lots of folks who are very familar with the ProPride hitch.

(I ended up installing my own in a campground very far from home where I purchased my AS).

Ridgerunner3 · 10-20-2012, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1grlscout

I should have previewed.
The paper that I was given shows the platform at the left and weight at the right, so the numbers should be underneath the weight.

I am in the process of installing and tuning a Propride hitch this weekend. So I have a little bit of experience.

What Rednax has told you is exactly correct.

Have you looked closely at the pictures in this thread to see if your trailer when hooked to your tow vehicle looks similar?

What are you using for a tow vehicle? Can you post pictures of your trailer and tow vehicle hooked up. Post pictures from a distance to show how level (or unlevel) the tow vehicle and trailer are. Also post a closeup of the hitch from the side on a level plane.

1grlscout · 10-21-2012, 11:44 AM

Sorry, I thought that I would be notified if someone responded (like private messages).
I have tons of pictures but do not know how to transfer. I tried 'copy/paste' and it is blank. I will search airforum for answer and try to organize photos to make sense, before adjustments, after wt. distribution max (3 concerned fellow campers worked on it, one from Canada who thought I should drive to Can-Am). The trailers nose was lifted some.
The professionals that installed my hitch actually sell only the ProPride and the Hensley. I told Kevin Amaro, the maintenance man that installed, that it was not level, but they were really busy and said I worried too much. I insisted because I knew that the trailer and tow vehicle were supposed to be level, and he told me how to tighten it, but said only 2 inches. When Sean said to keep tightening/raising the bars, I was really surprised, but the campground helpers raised them about 5 inches more (I marked everything with tape).
My tow vehicle was a 2011 Toyota Land Cruiser and the reason I have not asked for advice. I was told by private message that I would get h__ for using it as a tow vehicle, although the dealership thought it was fine. I sold it immediately to CarMax and left the brake controller, told them the story and they were not worried about the 600 mi. trip with the RA1 (RADNAX) overloaded, so I guess it was not damaged. I would not have been able to trust the installation of the brake controller and, if I ever tow again, I want everything to be set up correctly. I am reading about Tundras and F-series trucks, but will take my time. Now that I know that towing IS Rocket Science.
I have measurements from 2 different CAT Scales while hooked up, on my way home, and they recorded the STEER AXLE as the SUV (i.e. 7140), the DRIVE AXLE as the trailer (i.e.. 5580), 00 lb for the trailer axle, then GROSS WEIGHT (i.e. 12720). That is why I went to the Weight Station for trucks. An official came out and said that they did not weigh travel trailers and I told him that I needed the axles before I unhitched and sold the car, so he weighed it and yelled out the numbers. I asked him to please write them down and he begrudgingly ran everything off on an official form. I can scan them if anyone would like. I'll post some pictures next.

1grlscout · 10-21-2012, 02:20 PM

photos #1 and #2 (left to right) were taken before any adjustments

photos #3, 4, 5 and 7 were taken after I raised the weight distribution bars about 3" (they were taped at 6" originally)

photo #6 (with all the leaves) is at the KOA Campground in Fredericksburg after the bars were raised as far as possible, 24-25" from the bottom of the cylinder to the headpiece. The nose of the trailer lifted some at this point and I forgot about photos and became focused on weights.

After the service dept at a truck stop was able to readjust the coupler, so that 2 holes showed at the top instead of one (as in photos), as was Sean's advice, the trailer weight was reduced but 20 lb was added to the SUV? I weighed at the same place that did the adjustment, before and after, and the gross weight is different, also. If anyone is interested, I will scan these and post because they guarantee their weights and I would not have expected a difference of 100 lb. Another reason I went to the govt. scales.
I honestly appreciate the comments made. Not many people are interested in what seems to be minutia. That is, not until you are on an interstate highway after dark with huge trucks blowing past you. The box trucks are the worst. No one mentioned those or the huge RVs.

1grlscout · 10-21-2012, 02:26 PM

I posted and a message came up that said it had to be approved by a moderator. I guess for pictures of naked girls?
There are 7 photos and I tried to give sufficient information to describe when they were taken, before and after which adjustments. As I said, in the unread post, I appreciate the comments made and the astute questions asked.

Ridgerunner3 · 10-21-2012, 03:06 PM

1griscout, read through the thread on CAT Scale information http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...-in-17984.html This will help you understand the direction Rednax gave you in the previous post about weighing your rig.

When you post pictures of your hitch setup folks on this forum with Propride experience will be able to help you.

Have you emailed pictures to Sean for his help in understanding your setup problem. Sean is known for his great customer support. You just need to keep asking questions until you are satisfied that you have all of your questions answered.

I pulled my AS (2002 Safari 25) today for the first time with the new Propride. I have not been to the CAT Scales yet. I just set the weight bars based experience with my Reese hitch. The trailer pulled really well. The Propride is a big improvement over my dual cam hitch.

CanoeStream · 10-21-2012, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1grlscout

I posted and a message came up that said it had to be approved by a moderator. I guess for pictures of naked girls?
There are 7 photos and I tried to give sufficient information to describe when they were taken, before and after which adjustments. As I said, in the unread post, I appreciate the comments made and the astute questions asked.

Gee, I didn't check for racy picchers before I cleared up the issue for you. I missed something evidently. Your post with the hitch images now is visible. Nice that you shared!

Ridgerunner3 · 10-21-2012, 04:39 PM

I can see your pictures now. I'll tell you what sticks out to me... but I still strongly recommend that you contact Sean to discuss this with him. I am new to Propride hitches, but I have spent many hours recently studying the installation instructions.

Going through the beginning of this thread is very helpful is setting up a Propride hitch.

Your trailer is sitting with the nose very low.

The stinger (the part that attaches to your truck) is set way too low. It is set with about a 6" drop and appears to be angled up. Based on my install I would say your stinger setup is way out of spec. Did you get the installation and owner's instructions for the Propride hitch? The instructions explain how to setup the stinger. The stinger setup is causing you to start out with the trailer sitting very low in the nose which is causing you to load the weight bars to the extreme in an attempt to raise the nose of the trailer. So you are probably shifting way to much weight to the front of your truck and back to the trailer axles. I can email the instructions to you if you don't have them.

I can't tell from your photos if the yoke is installed according to spec. The yoke is the large frame that attaches to the hitch head and goes under your trailer frame. It should be 1 - 2" below your trailer frame and parallel to your trailer frame.

Looking at the pictures, I have no doubt you had a very uncomfortable trip home towing the trailer.

slowmover · 10-21-2012, 05:11 PM

Glad you've decided to hang in there, 1grlscout. We are going to get you to where you want to be, even if it takes more than a few words.

Now, if I understand correctly, you have sold the tow vehicle. But if you hadn't, then:

Yes, we want the scale numbers. The chart in the above post shows where/how to fill in:

FA1 (x-pounds) on tow vehicle front axle (first scale pad)
RA1 (y-pounds) on tow vehicle rear axle (second scale pad)
TT (z-pounds) on travel trailer axle (third scale pad)

If you paste in that chart on your next post, and fill in the values we can get an idea of where things stand. You can press the "Quote" button on that post and then fill in as requested. PM me if it isn't clear (click on my screen name and choose that option).

The idea of the chart is to cross the scale three times during one visit to give sufficient data to do an analysis. Ideally, both vehicles are carrying the load that represents normal travel.

So, if this is no longer the tow vehicle, we'd need to start over with what you've bought. When I buy a new vehicle the first stop I make is a CAT Scale with only driver, full fuel and the normal, permanent gear aboard. I recommend the same. We'll use this for the "adjusted empty weight" that lends background to the whole of setting up a WDH.

.

Sean Woodruff · 10-21-2012, 06:36 PM

Thanks, Bud, for pointing this out to me.

From the photos it definitely looks like the hitch bar offset is too low.

Also, the weight distribution jacks do not seem to be high enough.

As always, anyone can always reach me on my cell phone, at any time. (810) 962-0219.

You don't have to try to figure it out by yourself. I'm always available, or will return a voice mail quickly, by cell phone.

-

1grlscout · 10-21-2012, 08:53 PM

I printed the CAT Scale instructions and saved them on my computer.
I also read the posting by 2airishuman and decided to post MY CAT Scale results and talk about my experience. I had to stand on the hood of my car to press the button. When I went inside to pay and saw the print out, I told the woman (signed Crystal) that there was supposed to be a front axle and rear axle. She did not know what I was talking about. That was in Virginia, so I stopped again in NC and they still did not know what I was talking about and since I barely knew what I was talking about myself, I let it go. Finally on the NC State scales the front and rear axles showed up and I nearly fainted. RA1 overload. This is after all the adjustments that SEAN WOODRUFF, WHO I CALLED, MANY TIMES AND TO WHOM I SENT THESE SAME PICTURES, AND MORE told me to make, including moving the coupler up a notch and rebolting. (yes, he helped as much as he could, long distance. He said I reminded him of someone named Heather Hampton who used to call him a lot. I was surprised that there were not more of us.) The coupler adjustment was done in a few hours by 2 mechanics at the truck stop where I weighed before and after, which you can see on tickets 14624153 and 14624160, AND THE 100 LBS THAT EVAPORATED BY THE ADJUSTMENT! The trailer's weight decreased by 120 lb and the SUV increased by 20! Of course, I did not have Radnax's instructions at that time and I think that they would have increased my confidence when talking with the women who run the scales. They pointed out to me that they have to be certified, making it clear that they knew what they were doing. Enough.
Since my trailer weight was below 6000 lbs, could I use a smaller hitch that the 14,000 lb. Maybe that I could lift by myself? Everyone that saw my set up in the 4 campgrounds on the way home (it took me 2 weeks at 45 mph) said it was too much hitch for my trailer. It was easy to hitch up and my dog and I did get home in one piece, but I feel like the hitch was defective. Or just too much. Why put a hitch rated for a 14,000 lb trailer on a trailer that weighs less than 6000 lb fully loaded?
My only hope is to start over with a new tow vehicle and a new hitch. I still have hope because all of you that post here are riding around pulling trailers. Having an adventure. I just do not know how to get there. I need one knowledgeable trustworthy person to be physically present to help me. Since that is not possible with the ProPride, it may be possible with the Hensley, since it has been around longer. The Andersen Hitch website lists 2 locations near Charlotte and I could probably lift those parts.
Here I am on the ProPride thread, asking advice on other hitches. I did not anticipate this problem. I thought my trailer would leak or the microwave would not work or the propane tanks would explode. The only hitch problem was which one. If I had not been so picky, I would have gotten one of the Airstreams at Out of Doors Mart, nearby. Hindsight.
I just saw Sean's post. In the last picture, #7, with leaves, the weight distribution bars are tightened to the max. His other instruction was the adjustment to the coupler which was done at the truck stop as explained above. Since the RA1 was still over max weight after following his instructions, I just gave up.
I have tried to explain the feeling to people of riding down a road that you have never been on, to a place where you have never been and knowing that you have everything you need with you. I have traveled all over the world and the feeling is different from anything I have ever experienced. Wally Byam's dream.
Thank you for your help.

Sean Woodruff · 10-21-2012, 09:17 PM

I do remember talking to you now. About 2 weeks ago or longer? Why have you not called me anymore if you were having this problem?

Everyone you talked to at the campgrounds do not know what they are talking about if they told you it was too much hitch for your trailer. The fact that a hitch is rated at 14,000# means that it can EASILY handle your 6000# trailer.

Look at the last photo...

Your hitch bar is pointed UP and not parallel to the ground. The tilt pin is not in the hitch bar and the weight distribution is not getting any lift on the bar. That's why the nose of the hitch is also pointing down.

Move the hitch bar offset UP one hole and insert the tilt pin and washers so that the bar will stay parallel to the ground when engaging the weight distribution. The way your hitch bar is currently angled you aren't getting any lift on the bar for the first couple inches of jack travel.

In your last photo, the top hitch bar bolt should be toward the front of the slot and not to the rear of the slot like it is now.

Take a look at all the customer photos on www.Facebook.com/ProPride

You do not need to have a Facebook account to look at the customer photos. You'll see a lot of Airstream photos there.

Ridgerunner3 · 10-22-2012, 04:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1grlscout

I printed the CAT Scale instructions and saved them on my computer.
I also read the posting by 2airishuman and decided to post MY CAT Scale results and talk about my experience. I had to stand on the hood of my car to press the button. When I went inside to pay and saw the print out, I told the woman (signed Crystal) that there was supposed to be a front axle and rear axle. She did not know what I was talking about. That was in Virginia, so I stopped again in NC and they still did not know what I was talking about and since I barely knew what I was talking about myself, I let it go. Finally on the NC State scales the front and rear axles showed up and I nearly fainted. RA1 overload. This is after all the adjustments that SEAN WOODRUFF, WHO I CALLED, MANY TIMES AND TO WHOM I SENT THESE SAME PICTURES, AND MORE told me to make, including moving the coupler up a notch and rebolting. (yes, he helped as much as he could, long distance. He said I reminded him of someone named Heather Hampton who used to call him a lot. I was surprised that there were not more of us.) The coupler adjustment was done in a few hours by 2 mechanics at the truck stop where I weighed before and after, which you can see on tickets 14624153 and 14624160, AND THE 100 LBS THAT EVAPORATED BY THE ADJUSTMENT! The trailer's weight decreased by 120 lb and the SUV increased by 20! Of course, I did not have Radnax's instructions at that time and I think that they would have increased my confidence when talking with the women who run the scales. They pointed out to me that they have to be certified, making it clear that they knew what they were doing. Enough.
Since my trailer weight was below 6000 lbs, could I use a smaller hitch that the 14,000 lb. Maybe that I could lift by myself? Everyone that saw my set up in the 4 campgrounds on the way home (it took me 2 weeks at 45 mph) said it was too much hitch for my trailer. It was easy to hitch up and my dog and I did get home in one piece, but I feel like the hitch was defective. Or just too much. Why put a hitch rated for a 14,000 lb trailer on a trailer that weighs less than 6000 lb fully loaded?
My only hope is to start over with a new tow vehicle and a new hitch. I still have hope because all of you that post here are riding around pulling trailers. Having an adventure. I just do not know how to get there. I need one knowledgeable trustworthy person to be physically present to help me. Since that is not possible with the ProPride, it may be possible with the Hensley, since it has been around longer. The Andersen Hitch website lists 2 locations near Charlotte and I could probably lift those parts.
Here I am on the ProPride thread, asking advice on other hitches. I did not anticipate this problem. I thought my trailer would leak or the microwave would not work or the propane tanks would explode. The only hitch problem was which one. If I had not been so picky, I would have gotten one of the Airstreams at Out of Doors Mart, nearby. Hindsight.
I just saw Sean's post. In the last picture, #7, with leaves, the weight distribution bars are tightened to the max. His other instruction was the adjustment to the coupler which was done at the truck stop as explained above. Since the RA1 was still over max weight after following his instructions, I just gave up.
I have tried to explain the feeling to people of riding down a road that you have never been on, to a place where you have never been and knowing that you have everything you need with you. I have traveled all over the world and the feeling is different from anything I have ever experienced. Wally Byam's dream.
Thank you for your help.

First thing is to get the hitch configured properly. Then here are some of my thoughts on the CAT scales.

You may not have been situated on the CAT scales correctly. Your truck may have had both axles on only one scale pad instead of two. Here is a video on how to weigh your rig on the CAT scales. Sometimes it helps to go inside, at the CAT scales, and explain that you are about to weigh an RV several times in order to set up the hitch on your RV. You may also want to explain the CAT scale problem you had in your past trip to the scales. I hope this is helpful.

Remember what Rednax told you. You need one weight with only the truck.... no trailer attached (each axle on different scale pads), one weight with the trailer and truck (each truck axle on different scale pads, both trailer axles on one pad different from the pads the truck is on)with no load on the weight distribution bars, then a weight with the trailer and truck with the weight distribution bars with a first adjustment (in the case of my truck, I set the first weight adjustment at 4 3/4" of lift on the weight adjustment jack, which seemed about right, for a starting point, based on experience).

You'll figure this out.

How To Weigh | CAT Scale

1grlscout · 10-22-2012, 07:31 PM

Ridgerunner, thank you, especially for the instructions. It explains a lot because they direct you to take measurements of the tow vehicle and trailer before starting.
The hitch was ALREADY ON THE TRAILER WHEN I ARRIVED FROM NC!
I liked everyone in the Service dept, except for the person assigned to help me who was buddies with one of the two salespersons who was mad as h-e double hockey sticks because I would not sign off on the trailer checklist before I saw it. Dealership can't use your funds until all the paperwork is done.
I don't sign my name to statements that are not true, even if it will benefit me.
Now Sean, don't get defensive. I did make the last contact with you and sent you more photos, after I had tightened the weight distribution bars a few inches like you said. At my request, you were going to send me your email address as well as a contact number for a man named John Campbell, who was the only person that you knew in NC that was familiar with the ProPride hitch. You said he also bought one for his daughter and got her hitched up.
Even though you did not follow through, (and I do understand that you are busy and appreciated that you made yourself available at all), I would have contacted you, after

1grlscout · 10-22-2012, 07:53 PM

well I hit return by mistake
this is continued from my last sentence:
I would have contacted you, after I found someone to make the other adjustment that you advised, which was to move the, what I have been calling coupler, but is actually the receiver end of the hitch in the diagram of the manual that Ridgerunner sent me, up one notch. You said two notches should be showing at the top, instead of one. The kind people in the KOA Campground that tightened the bars to the max, did not carry such tools on their trip and no one knew where to go. We were all far from home, in unfamiliar territory. So I just continued toward home and when I stopped at a truck stop for gas, a kind trucker noticed my un wieldy set up and took me back to the service department, where he knew the workers and explained the situation. They were hesitant, because the RA1 was so low, they did not know what would happen when they adjusted it higher. They finally
agreed to do it and worked for about an hour and only charged me $20.00. Anyway, as my previous post explains, the RA1 was still 20lb over the max weight allowed, so I did not bother to call you. Your well meaning suggestions had not worked and I was almost home. Which was my objective.
Now, if Sean or someone will please explain to me why the ProPride comes in various sizes, the 14,000 lb being the largest, if the 14,000 lb will work for any size trailer? Why not sell only the 14,000 lb?