The unofficial pp users guide...

[Tigershark]

Originally Posted by REDNAX

leave the stinger.

Yup

A quick question. If one chooses to leave the stinger for the dealer, I assume we leave it inserted in the hitch head and let the dealer hook it up using some towing vehicle that is equipped with a receiver. If this is the case, do we need to apply any tension on the WD bars before leaving the dealer's yard or just let the bars hanging without tension?

[2airishuman]

hi tiger' welcome to the forums and this thread...

it is extremely hard to back a receiver/tv into the stinger and connect/thread the pin...

possible, but very tricky.

and how much tension on the jacks will depend on POSITIONing of that tv-receiver.

in fact jack TWEAKING will be necessary to line up the stinger tip TO the receiver hole.

it is be better for the dealer to move the stinger TO a tv and hook up in the usual manner.

for moving around in a parking/service lot, w/d tension isn't really needed

but leave enough tension on the jacks so that the head/box is supported or ~level.

some shops will use a tractor to move the unit

and might have an adapter for the stinger or use a heave chain wrapped 'round it.

never assume they (the service guys) KNOW what to do or how the hitch functions.

run through the steps with whoever is gonna move your trailer

and ask about what they'll use for towing...

while many large shops will claim 'insurance/liability issues'

prohibit YOU backing into a service stall,

others will WELCOME your offer to do this stuff and the hookups.

cheers
2air'

[Tigershark]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

hi tiger' welcome to the forums and this thread...

it is extremely hard to back a receiver/tv into the stinger and connect/thread the pin...

possible, but very tricky.

and how much tension on the jacks will depend on POSITIONing of that tv-receiver.

in fact jack TWEAKING will be necessary to line up the stinger tip TO the receiver hole.

it is be better for the dealer to move the stinger TO a tv and hook up in the usual manner.

for moving around in a parking/service lot, w/d tension isn't really needed

but leave enough tension on the jacks so that the head/box is supported or ~level.

some shops will use a tractor to move the unit

and might have an adapter for the stinger or use a heave chain wrapped
'round it.

never assume they (the service guys) KNOW what to do or how the hitch functions.

run through the steps with whoever is gonna move your trailer

and ask about what they'll use for towing...

while many large shops will claim 'insurance/liability issues'

prohibit YOU backing into a service stall,

others will WELCOME your offer to do this stuff and the hookups.

cheers
2air'

Thanks, 2air', for the welcome and quick reply.

I was wondering what the best way is regarding to reducing the possibility of damaging the hitch system. I have a PP on my current TT and my dealer has a forklift that is equipped with a receiver. However, as one of the earlier posters had said, that serious demage to the hitch could still occur when the dealer tries to maneuver the TT using such setups.

I am thinking along the same line as you that leaving some tension on the WD bars could help support the heavy hitch head from dropping down to the ground. What is not totally clear to me is whether such tension would increase or decrease the likelihood of damaging the hitch when the dealer tries to hook up with his set up and maneuver it. What do you think?

I am taking my TT in for some service later today, any advice in this regards will be truly appreciated. Thanks!

[2airishuman]

i read ONE 2nd hand report here of another BRAND hitch damaged...

that's not enough info 2 generate any concern imo.

these hitches are DESIGNED to generate and transmit a LOT of stress via the stinger...

with proper w/d these forces are several 1000s of lbs through the assembly.

every forklift/tractor/service mule is different including how/where the receivers are mounted.

so that topic is beyond THIS thread and requiring PIX of the specific lift/receiver as casebycase.

in other words i think MOST of this chatter about damaging the pp is UNfounded without specifics.

it is far more likely the powdercoat can be chipped or the a frame brackets/U bolts tweaked.

every time the carz or truck head to the dealer, damage TO them is possible during handling...

and there are many wayz a careless shop hand can mangle yer stream,

or break 1 thing while fixin' another.

cheers
2air'

[cms4140]

I think I am the one who started this chatter - I should be able to report back on the current topic Thursday. I dropped the AS off at the local dealer for the window leak test/repair. As suggested here, I did in fact leave the stinger with them, connected to the main hitch unit per their request (no WD tension). I already have a good bit of powercoat damage to the stinger, so I will be anxious to see how much more I have as a result of this endeavor. My primary concern was them bumping the hitch unit with the forklift in order to hitch up, wondering if it would/could cause damage to the yoke set-up or get it out of line somehow.

Chris

[Tigershark]

Originally Posted by cms4140

I dropped the AS off at the local dealer for the window leak test/repair. As suggested here, I did in fact leave the stinger with them, connected to the main hitch unit per their request (no WD )....
Chris

Chris, I am just curious. With the stinger left in the main unit and no tension on the WD bars, wouldn't the hitch head drop to the ground due to its own weight?

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by Tigershark

...With the stinger left in the main unit and no tension on the WD bars, wouldn't the hitch head drop to the ground due to its own weight?

no

the stinger would angle downward a bit below the horizontal but that's it...

see MANY of the early pictures in this thread.

IF one removed the w/d bars completely the hitch head would angle downward more

but it's attached at the ball AND yoke, so it's not gonna drop 2 the ground.
________

almost every time i disconnect the w/d bars (or jacks) are maximally LOOSENed...

cheers
2air'

[pickerdd]

Hello folks,

I just came back from my yearly 2000 mile trip out to Kansas to attend the Walnut Valley Music Festival. I pulled our '71 Safari with my V8 4Runner and used our ProPride 3p hitch. I could tell a huge difference in the way the AS behaved from the previous long trip to pick up the Safari last September. This was my maiden voyage with Moe (our AS), so I was on pins and needles for the drive out to Kansas. I averaged 60-65 on the highway with very little notice of 18-wheelers zooming by. The hitch kept the truck and Moe stable and well under control.

With Sean's assistance I installed the hitch Labor Day weekend. Thanks Sean!!! After unhitching it at our storage lot I noticed the bracket that holds the yoke wasn't centered. I had noticed that the AS felt like it wasn't tracking correctly behind my truck. Initially, I thought it was because my chains were too short and positioned incorrectly (which was true on both accounts). Once I looked over the hitch I found the bracket had slipped. I hadn't tightened the 2 u-bolts holding on the bracket tight enough. I centered it and tightened up the bolts on the brackets before hitching up again and it tracked true afterward.

After experimenting with the WD jacks I came up with a jack height distance that seemed to balance out the truck. I stopped at 3 different truck scales on the way out to Kansas and all 3 were out of order, so I'll find one local to verify my adjustments. I know the weight distribution can only be truly verified by a scale.

No grumps from me on the hitch, but I do have a couple of observations after using it for my 2000 mile trip to Kansas. Keep it greased. Check the torque on the bolts and the adjustment brackets regularly.

The hitch is very easy to hitch and unhitch. The 3P is one fine piece of equipment. Good job Sean!

[Jammer]

I too had the yoke attachment bracket slip shortly after initial installation. After realigning and retorquing the nuts everything was OK and the problem has not come back. I did have them torqued properly on initial installation and so I believe the loss of friction was due to the various components seating into the finish in the first 100 miles or so.

I see the use of U bolts that are larger than the trailer A frame members as an inherent design defect of this hitch. On a trailer where the U bolts fit perfectly (in other words, something besides an Airstream), they're fine, but in an Airstream application they are prone to slippage. This affects both the WD jack bolts and the yoke attachment bracket bolts.

Alternative designs would include either shipping a selection of U bolts of various sizes (for the WD jack this would mean drilling extra holes in the jack mount to accommodate them), or replacing each U bolt with two carriage bolts and a backing plate. I favor the second approach. Grade 5 carriage bolts are readily available and the production costs for the backing plates would be low. The backing plates could have holes punched for various A frame sizes.

[hiker]

What annual maintenance items do people recommend for the PP?

Also, has anyone installed a zerk fitting on the trailer to permit greasing the hitch ball without disconnecting the PP? The zerk fitting question was asked (and answered) on the HAHA thread but interested to hear what others think.

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by hiker

What annual maintenance items do people recommend for the PP?

Also, has anyone installed a zerk fitting on the trailer to permit greasing the hitch ball without disconnecting the PP? The zerk fitting question was asked (and answered) on the HAHA thread but interested to hear what others think.

Yep, I drilled a hole thru the top of the coupler and installed a zerk fitting there. I grease the ball every time I grease the bar locations, and try to remember it every trip, or every few days on a long trip.

[2airishuman]

hi hiker, thanks for posting.

if one spends a little time looking at the coupler/ball area...

it's pretty clear that very little motion occurs at the ball, especially when compared to other hitches...

that LACK of motion could be used as reasoning for more or less grease'n.

keep in mind any FRESH grease pushed in will result in older grease being pushed out.

and unless that older grease is throughly cleaned up it becomes a dirt magnet and could wick stuff into the recessed space.

my approach over the last 5 years...

has been to inspected and clean the ball/coupler annually; this was just done on the pp.

and then finger apply a coating to the inside of the a/s coupler and a thin coat on the ball.

otoh the w/d bar heads/bushings/retention discs CONSTANTLY move...

so they get injected a lot more frequently, weekly on long trips and every 1000 miles on short/local excursions.

Originally Posted by hiker

What annual maintenance items do people recommend for the PP?...

timely question, since this thread is just hitting a year marker.

as an annual process i just disassembled and REmounted the pp...

inspected all the bits, cleaned, lubed, checked thread/nuts, wear parts and so on...

i'll have a pictorial on this up here eventually...

lets hope other users will report on their regular maintenance/inspection routines.

cheers
2air'

[Jammer]

Is there a stinger available for 2.5" receivers?

Does the PPPPP work well with the 2 to 2.5" adapter sleeve?

Or is it a better choice to DOWNgrade a tow vehicle so equipped to a smaller receiver?

[SteveH]

Can't really answer your questions, but my truck came with a 2 1/2" reciever, and not wanting the slop when using the adapter, I welded the adapter into the 2 1/2" reciever making it a permanent 2" with no slop.

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by Jammer

Is there a stinger available for 2.5" receivers?...

yes, see post #61 and #70 for this info and a description of the specific difference.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...tml#post858555

Originally Posted by Jammer

...Does the PPPPP work well with the 2 to 2.5" adapter sleeve?...

yes

adapter sleeve FIT varies by receiver and adapter maker...

for example i have used the ford oem adapter in a ford oem 2.5 receiver (1600/16,000 rating)

and the fit is very good.

also tried/used an aftermarket adapter (curt) which was shorter and the fit was looser.

but the overall fit (slop) wasn't any different than my old 2 inch haha stinger in a 2 inch receiver...

Originally Posted by Jammer

..Or is it a better choice to DOWNgrade a tow vehicle so equipped to a smaller receiver?

this is really a topic for some of the other tongue weight/receiver/rating/size threads but...

depends on your goals and the load/ratings for each size receiver or what else is connected.

i wouldn't DISCARD a new 1500/15,000 rated receiver with a 2.5 inch opening, just to avoid using an adapter.

but if OTHER things are towed or inserted into the receiver, an adapter (or downsizing) is still necessary.
_________

i happen to have both the 2 inch and the 2.5 inch PP adjustable stinger parts and will post comparisons soon.

cheers
2air'

[Devoman]

This is also a great thing to use for wanting to take the extra step.It works really well and I never leave home without it.
Hitch stabilizer: no wobble, anti rattle device for hitch accessories

[hiker]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

my approach over the last 5 years...

has been to inspected and clean the ball/coupler annually; this was just done on the pp.

and then finger apply a coating to the inside of the a/s coupler and a thin coat on the ball.

I agree ... if the PP is removed annually for inspection anyway and if greasing the ball/coupler once a year is often enough, then a zerk serves no purpose.

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

as an annual process i just disassembled and REmounted the pp...

inspected all the bits, cleaned, lubed, checked thread/nuts, wear parts and so on...

Did you disasemble the 3/4" bolts that connect the yoke to the main hitch unit. It took a lot of effort when I installed the PP to torque these bolts to 250# because the hex nut kept slipping past the nut block so I'm hoping I never have to remove them.

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by hiker

...Did you disasemble the 3/4" bolts that connect the yoke to the main hitch unit. It took a lot of effort when I installed the PP to torque these bolts to 250# because the hex nut kept slipping past the nut block so I'm hoping I never have to remove them.

yeah those did take some effort to snug2spec and showed NO signs of backing out.

(mark all the nuts/bolts/threads with touch up paint)

no it's not necessary to loosen them to expose/grease the ball or cup.

while connected and with the A frame jack deployed, open the coupler...

then raise the A frame with the jack till the ball is exposed.

it may necessary to loosen the yoke tail at the frame bracket or adjustable yoke side bolts (depending on original setup) ...

((see the pics back around post #17)

it's easy to do this...
_________

i took the w/d bars off (including the jacks/brackets) and looked at the bushings/retention discs and disassembled the stinger.

none of those steps are necessary, but i'm a curious guy...

cheers
2air'

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by Jammer

Is there a stinger available for 2.5" receivers?

Yes. It is becoming more common so we are making them now. I'm not stocking them but do make them when ordered.

Originally Posted by Jammer

Does the PPPPP work well with the 2 to 2.5" adapter sleeve?

Yes, works fine.

[pattonsr]

Devoman,

Hitch Vise is great for getting rid of the rattle when hauling around an empty Uhaul trailer.

But it seems to be rated for class 3 and 5000 lbs. I am not sure I would use it on a WD hitch with a class 4 or 5 receiver. Do you have a rattle problem with a 1000 lb tongue weight?

Barry