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Ag&Au · 07-14-2012, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH

While coming back thru the Panhandle of Texas the day before yesterday, and after about 50 thousand sway-free miles towing with the ProPride, we expereinced our first sway event.

Driving South on US84 between Slaton and Post, TX, doing about 70MPH, we were hit by a whirl wind, or as known in these parts, a dust devil. It was a pretty strong one. I saw it coming at us, and wasn't too concerned, but was ready for it. The whole thing lasted about two seconds, but the trailer and truck were oscellating back and forth over the entire lane. After the dust devil was gone, the sway was gone.

I will add this was not a typical sway where the trailer was trying to steer the truck, but one where the trailer AND truck were oscellating back and forth, in line, with the trucks front axel as the pivot point. I never felt out of control, but I would have to say it was a sway.

I'm not sure that I would call that sway. A dust devil is a small scale tornado. If a tornado picked up your TV and TT and took off with them, would that be extreme sway.

If you are traveling south, the first effect would be a a strong wind on TV pushing it to the right, immediately joined by an additional strong wind pushing the trailer to the right while the wind on the truck has changed to pushing it to the left. As you exit the DD, the trailer is hit by strong wind blowing it to the left. It is pretty hard to compensate for all of that within a second with a projected pivot point unless it is projected about a 100 yards away from you.

I think If I am on a collision course with a dust devil, I will pull over. Glad you made it.

My degree is in meteorology, but that does not make this an expert opinion.

Ken

SteveH · 07-14-2012, 03:46 PM

Ken,

Yes, I agree it was an extreem condition, and like I said, it was not the typical trailer sway where the trailer tried to steer the truck. The whole rig seemed to vear from side to side.

IMHO, it is good to know the outfit can sustain such a violent wind condition. Of course, I don't know what would have happened had I been using any other hitch.

Regards,
Steve

Ag&Au · 07-14-2012, 03:59 PM

If you decide to try it again. Here is the recommended tow vehicle.

SteveH · 07-15-2012, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by w7ts

If you decide to try it again. Here is the recommended tow vehicle.

Yea, that should do just fine!

rp709 · 07-15-2012, 10:56 AM

Does the tension on the ProPride WD bars stay steady throughout a day of towing? My (former) Hensley bars would need to be retensioned throughout the day. This was very annoying and there was no provision to pin the shaft so it wouldn't turn.

SteveH · 07-15-2012, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rp709

Does the tension on the ProPride WD bars stay steady throughout a day of towing? My (former) Hensley bars would need to be retensioned throughout the day. This was very annoying and there was no provision to pin the shaft so it wouldn't turn.

I have not had a problem with the jacks moving, and I know they don't move because the method I use in setting them is counting the turns as I hitch up, and I also count the turns as I disconnect. I find this method easier and more precise than measuring, or using a measured stick, or such.

Ag&Au · 07-15-2012, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH

I have not had a problem with the jacks moving, and I know they don't move because the method I use in setting them is counting the turns as I hitch up, and I also count the turns as I disconnect. I find this method easier and more precise than measuring, or using a measured stick, or such.

I also count the turns.

This may have bee mentioned before: , but
I use the crank that came with my trailer to raise and lower the jacks. Its intended purpose is to lower the stabilizer pads. For me it is about the right leverage and makes it easier to count the turns than the supplied ratchet, and it goes really fast at first.

Ken

pickerdd · 08-27-2012, 08:06 AM

After cleaning up and repainting my 3P I reinstalled my 3P hitch yesterday and realized that I may have used the incorrect calculation for the coupler height. I changed out my axles last year and gained 3 inches in trailer height. Will that change the coupler height used for calculating the hitch bar height? I've read on the forum to use 19.5" for the coupler height, but the question is will that change because of the new axles?

Thanks for your help!

Ag&Au · 08-27-2012, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pickerdd

After cleaning up and repainting my 3P I reinstalled my 3P hitch yesterday and realized that I may have used the incorrect calculation for the coupler height. I changed out my axles last year and gained 3 inches in trailer height. Will that change the coupler height used for calculating the hitch bar height? I've read on the forum to use 19.5" for the coupler height, but the question is will that change because of the new axles?

Thanks for your help!

That depends on what you used for coupler height when you did it the first time.

I suggest you actually measure it. for this measurement, the ground has to be flat, but not necessarily perfectly level. With the trailer loaded close to how you tow it, use the tongue jack to make the frame on rear and front of the trailer the same distance from the ground. Then measure the height of the top inside of the coupler on the trailer.

Ken

pickerdd · 08-27-2012, 08:49 AM

OK, thanks I'll do that.

Ag&Au · 09-08-2012, 03:23 PM

I was getting the trailer ready for a trip and wondered what to do if the truck broke down making it necessary to tow the trailer with some other vehicle.

After inspecting it, it appears that all that is needed to temporarily remove the ProPride is to remove the bolt holding up the back of the yoke under the A frame, release the ball from the coupler, and lift the straps off the jack hooks,. Is that correct?

Ken

SteveH · 09-08-2012, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by w7ts

I was getting the trailer ready for a trip and wondered what to do if the truck broke down making it necessary to tow the trailer with some other vehicle.

After inspecting it, it appears that all that is needed to temporarily remove the ProPride is to remove the bolt holding up the back of the yoke under the A frame, release the ball from the coupler, and lift the straps off the jack hooks,. Is that correct?

Ken

That's the way I see it, and have actually transferred the hitch like that. You do have to temporarily prop up the front of the trailer with the stabilizers to get the yoke out from under the tongue jack.

Ag&Au · 09-08-2012, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH

That's the way I see it, and have actually transferred the hitch like that. You do have to temporarily prop up the front of the trailer with the stabilizers to get the yoke out from under the tongue jack.

Thanks,
I was figuring on using a jack. Will the stabilizers hold the front up? They don't look that sturdy to me.

Ken

SteveH · 09-08-2012, 07:56 PM

You can't use them to jack up the trailer, but they will hold the weight if you want to lift the tongue jack and remove the hitch. I've done it, of course with the wheels chocked.

Wazbro · 09-08-2012, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by w7ts

Thanks,
I was figuring on using a jack. Will the stabilizers hold the front up? They don't look that sturdy to me.

Ken

I would not trust the stabilizers to hold up 800-1200lbs (maybe more with the lack of leverage being that far back), maybe that's just me, I would use 2 jack stands under the back of the tongue myself.

richinny · 09-08-2012, 07:57 PM

why not use the propride on the substitute tow vehicle?

Ag&Au · 09-08-2012, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richinny

why not use the propride on the substitute tow vehicle?

That may be a possibility. What started all this was me trying to plan ahead. I got to thinking about the truck breaking down while towing and the truck and trailer needed to be towed separately. I'm guessing that the tow truck might have a receiver, but could also just have a ball attached to a welded bumper. I saw a picture of a large auto carrier with a pickup on the bed and towing a fairly large travel trailer. It was on some roadside service web site. So that made me think "what if"?

Ken

rp709 · 09-12-2012, 02:08 PM

2airishuman, I have removed a Hensley Arrow from my 28' Safari. I plan to install a ProPride. You mentioned repairing holes in the A frame. How do you do that? Any trouble getting the stinger out of the box when unhitching? Ron

Jammer · 09-12-2012, 04:00 PM

I believe that 2air has left the building.

In general the holes can be easily welded shut. It only takes a few minutes.

Overall the ProPride hitch seems to exhibit fewer problems with stuck stingers than the HAHA.

Ag&Au · 09-12-2012, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rp709

2airishuman, I have removed a Hensley Arrow from my 28' Safari. I plan to install a ProPride. You mentioned repairing holes in the A frame. How do you do that? Any trouble getting the stinger out of the box when unhitching? Ron

I have never had a problem getting it out. Getting in back in may at times requires patience. Getting it out is easy once you learn to recognize to point where it is supporting itself and not pushing up or down on the trailer tongue.