Has anyone worn out their Coupler?

[thecatsandi]

I was having a discussion with my favorite AS mechanic last week. No it wasn't me. As far as I know I don't talk to myself. or do I?

He and I were discussing the fact that when I lifted my trailer the last time take it down to offsite storage at a friends house that I had problems keeping the ball in the coupler. I have a new latch from fall 2006 and a brand new first time use ball.

I am going to try to replace the latch but I think he may be correct that the coupler will need to be replaced since it has 80,000+ miles on it and two accidents.
The coupler socket has remained lubricated the entire time.

So the couple hundred $ question: Coupler replacement or ?

[Sodbust]

I have not looked real close at mine,, but did test it locked up by raising the jack a bit.. Most of them I have been around can be adjusted as the flipper catcher thingey wares.. The draw system that pulls up on the lock plate is the most important as if it failed it would turn loose the flipper flopper locker plate..

Bet someone comes on behind all this with the proper terms,, and more solid info..

Myself,, lube,, test and always look for cracks or lose bolts and such,

Sodbust

[overlander63]

A few months ago a 1986 Sovereign came into the shop with a worn out coupler. The ball sat much too high in the coupler, and the latch wouldn't latch. We attributed this to a lack of lubrication, since it had never seen a drop of grease since 1986.

[barts]

If I ever need to replace the one on our Airstream, I'll consider a Bulldog Collar-Lok A-Frame coupler; I have one on our equipment trailer. It's really tough and there's no way that latch is wearing out - and it's obvious when it is properly latched.

- Bart

[vinstream]

Bart,

FYI...

They are not meant for travel trailers and I have seen them on two trailers and the frame were badly bent! They fit on the ball very tight (toooo Tight) and force the frame to bend rather then pivot on the ball!

Todd

[barts]

Well, I have no idea why those frames were bent, but color me deeply skeptical that the coupler grabs on so hard that it bends the frame. It is a lot more likely that someone overdid the WD settings and replaced the coupler, or vice versa. The Tin Pickle's frame is slightly bent just ahead of the body - likely a steep driveway and an aggressive WD hitch w/ a PO.

- Bartt

[slowmover]

Even the most expensive coupler option isn't really expensive. So I'd be inclined to replace a twice wrecked one.

I, too, "like" the BULLDOG coupler . . but it's worth asking why it is never used on travel trailers by OEM's.

There "might" be something more to it than cost. After all, a trailer that jumps the ball is bound to have excited some lawsuit or other and have this question raised.

Or, why would it not be an option (is the other)? Far as I can tell the slide/collar lock might just need more oil or grease than the usual coupler type.

Look forward to what someone finds out about it.

http://www.redtrailers.com/images/ac...umbs/21011.jpg


And, here is Mexray on his QUICKBITE coupler. Had a guy pull in next to me two weeks ago with one. The simplicity is appealing.

Ray reports that one need not even remove the old coupler, just cut the "nose" off the end and -- by design -- weld the Quickbite right over it.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/dreamstreamr/SC...jpg?imgmax=512
.

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by barts

If I ever need to replace the one on our Airstream, I'll consider a Bulldog Collar-Lok A-Frame coupler; I have one on our equipment trailer. It's really tough and there's no way that latch is wearing out - and it's obvious when it is properly latched.

- Bart

How do you adapt this to the trailers A frame?

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by REDNAX

Even the most expensive coupler option isn't really expensive. So I'd be inclined to replace a twice wrecked one.

The first "wreck" was a seperation. The second one the trailer remained connected. However, the person behind me reported the trailer was swaying plus or minus nearly a full lane.

How I didn't loose it is still a mystery to me.

[Gene]

It is ok to talk to yourself if no one is listening and if you like the company.

But that probably wasn't your real question—

With two accidents, the damage that the coupler may have experienced would be enough for me to change it. You have also had trouble with your hitch and that may have made the situation worse. There may be an adjustment, but maybe you can't see any damage.

I'd replace it.

I saw some posts on the Quickbite a while ago and it was intriguing. This is an opportunity to find something better than the OEM coupler.

Gene

[zlee]

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

I saw some posts on the Quickbite a while ago and it was intriguing. This is an opportunity to find something better than the OEM coupler.

If anyone pursues the Quickbite, I'd be interested in finding out what you find out. When I asked my sales guy about it, he said there was some question as to whether it was really compatible with a proper weight distribution hitch set up. I don't know enough to know if that's code for "we don't deal with it and we don't want to" or if there really is a compatibility issue.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by thecatsandi

How do you adapt this to the trailers A frame?

They have several types with different weight ratings.

BULLDOG A-Frame Couplers

http://www.bulldogproducts.net/content/default.aspx

And, as CrawfordGene indicated above, the "wreck" of your trailer, twice would have been more than enough to have considered the coupler worn out, IMO.

.

[JFScheck]

Has anyone spotted any RV'ers using any other type of attachment pieces?

[barts]

Originally Posted by thecatsandi

How do you adapt this to the trailers A frame?

They make an A-frame version, so I'd support the tongue under the tanks, remove the tanks & regulator, plug trailer propane line, remove the jack, cache the break-away wiring somewhere safe, grind the welds off on the existing coupler, test-fit the new coupler and remove any paint near where the welds would go, and tack and then weld in place using a high penetration electrode (6010 or 6011); I'd butter pass w/ 7018 as that's much prettier. Clean slag, wirebrush and etch raw metal with phosphoric acid, paint with Aluthane or other polyurethane UV rated paint. Replace jack, break-away switch, tanks, etc. and test.

Likely take several hours + wait time for paint. Any competent weld shop can do this for you.

- Bart

[TG Twinkie]

I have a Bull Dog coupler on my hay mower. It has been there for 10 years. When I am mowing the 62 acres on the farm I make a 90 degree turn to the right and then another 90 degree turn to the left. This operation occurs about every 2 minutes all day long for about 16 days a year. So in 10 years it has gone thru this operation 48,000 times. It shows no sign of significant wear. I do grease the mechanism regularly.
I can't see any reason why this ball coupler would not be a safe device on a travel trailer. It certainly has a very positive lock mechanism.

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by barts

Likely take several hours + wait time for paint. Any competent weld shop can do this for you.

- Bart

Bart,
A competent welder will do this for me. I won't do any welding that is critical. That is left to the professionals.

[r carl]

FYI, I torched off, ground off slag and remaining weld, and welded on a new stamped A-frame coupler on a boat trailer the other day. I used 1/8 6010 rod. Everything went well and it took a half hour.

[Friday]

I've had a coupler wear out on a utility trailer... just poor maintenance because I didn't care about it. Moved from a 1 7/8 to a 2 inch ball and that fixed it.

My Basecamp had a 2 inch coupler that was really nice.. very easy to tell if it was engaged. My Intl has the old-school flip latch, which I think is the crappiest design ever...

Oh well...

[barts]

Originally Posted by thecatsandi

Bart,
A competent welder will do this for me. I won't do any welding that is critical. That is left to the professionals.

That call is one you have to make yourself. I don't get paid for welding, but I've welded my own boat trailer from scratch, as well as the boiler that's in that boat . Coupler are actually a low stress situation because there's so much space for welds - many inches long. If you do the math, a small fraction of the welds on the coupler will suffice to hang the Airstream in mid-air! Tricky bits are when there's very little metal thickness/area to carry the load, or if you have to do it upside down, blind and in a box like those Navy certified welders.

- Bart

[Ganglin]

Here's a users opinion on Quick Bite:

Dreamstreamr Odyssey Chasing 75 Degrees