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Old 01-08-2022, 09:17 PM   #1
JWR
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Storing trailer on the tongue jack on a hill.

Hard to explain in the title. Take a look at the photo. This is a new to me FC23 in its storage.location by the driveway need the tongue jack fully extended to get close to level.

That seems a little extreme for a weeks at a time storage. Was thinking about some jackstands or other option to offload the tongue jack.

Its predecessor, a 19, was able to get up the hill a little.further and didn't have to extend completely.

Anyone have a bright idea, solution better than tall jack stands?
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Old 01-08-2022, 09:22 PM   #2
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Mine sits high in front when parked next to the house. I use a cone on the tack and lower the front stabilizers onto blocks for stability. No problems in the 6 years at this home.
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Old 01-09-2022, 06:46 AM   #3
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My 28-footer sits the same way on its parking spot. I do put it on hydraulic jack stands to take some of the weight off of the rear axle and tires.
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Old 01-09-2022, 06:54 AM   #4
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I use a jack stand under the hitch and leave weight on both the jack and the stand.
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Old 01-09-2022, 08:30 AM   #5
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Someone once noted that its better to store the camper at an angle to allow rainwater to more quickly run off, either front or rear.
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Old 01-09-2022, 08:38 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by kscherzi View Post
Someone once noted that its better to store the camper at an angle to allow rainwater to more quickly run off, either front or rear.
I do leave mine at a slight angle for that reason and so the height of the front and stairs are not too high.
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Old 01-09-2022, 10:00 AM   #7
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You are better to store level since storing at angles will inhibit water flowing off the trailer and cause it to pool when encountering obstacles on the downward slope. For example water could run under the air conditioner and settle around the gasket. Freeze thaw will take it's toll and you could develop a leak. Under normal warm weather circumstances the chance of development is much less. Winter is a different story.

My advice is to get the trailer as level as possible and let the natural contours of the body to allow the water to travel unrestricted as possible.

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Old 01-09-2022, 10:13 AM   #8
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Wizard of OZ... look behind the curtain

Take the plastic leveling blocks and... presto.

Extending the jack this high as you have done... just a slight roll forward and you have BENT your Jack and it will not retract. $$$$$$

Package of leveling blocks... under $20. Get two sets of ten... For leveling side to side.

I am surprised no one has seen this done with leveling blocks.

Also CHOCK your wheels on any incline. Once your Airstream begins to move... even The Wizard of Oz can only watch it go down hill.

I have never had water collect on the sides or top. This was even for five years our 23 foot was outdoors at RV Storage in Colorado. Although... snow, when melting slid off the top. Never a leak. Never listened to anyone who had a flat top fiber glass trailer... The Earth is Round and still has Oceans. ???? How is that.

Works for Arctic Fox 25 foot trailers., as well. Our friends know the Wizard of Oz, too.
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Old 01-09-2022, 10:35 AM   #9
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I agree with Ray. I do not allow extreme extension of my hitch jack and will use additional devices (like blocks as Ray shows), to minimize the forces being applied to that jack leg. I also carry extra large wheel chocks and tandem wheel locks when I'm forced to park on a less than level spot.

Years ago before my Airstream I had to park on an unlevel state park campsite. My hitch jack was extended up high and when I unhitched the trailer it moved a few inches on my small wheel chocks and I found my hand crank hitch jack jammed when I attempted to lower the trailer back on the ball of my hitch. Back in that day I was towing with an Olds Cutlass. I used the bumper hitch of the car to slightly get the pressure off the trailer hitch jack. That took the pressure of the hitch jack and I was able to crank it down without weight on it. I was able to lower the trailer down on the ball with the bumper jack thankfully. It bent the leg on the jack slightly. I obviously replaced the hitch jack and learned the lesson about making sure that trailer was absolutely supported well and not to overextend that jack.

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Old 01-09-2022, 12:04 PM   #10
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Hi

Since this is an "all the time" sort of storage location, I think I'd play with some chunks of wood to create "custom" parts for the leveling. Leave the plastic blocks in their bag. Store the wood stuff in the garage when you are out and about.

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Old 01-10-2022, 08:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Hi

Since this is an "all the time" sort of storage location, I think I'd play with some chunks of wood to create "custom" parts for the leveling. Leave the plastic blocks in their bag. Store the wood stuff in the garage when you are out and about.

Bob
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Go to Lowes and find scrap in their trash can. Ask, they will usually give it to your for free.

Get the 12 inch x 10" or 12" x 2 inch squares. One for the bottom, one for the top with Plastic in between. If there are no scraps... buy an 8 foot board, find one that is HEAVY... compared to the soft pine... and they cut it for so much an inch, or do it Gratis. I like Lowes. ...and Home Depot.

When side to side leveling... you can also use your imagination. You may need a shovel to make the surface FLAT before stacking. Scrape off some sod or move some rock... just bend over and do it right.
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Old 01-10-2022, 03:07 PM   #12
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Thanks for the feedback. I've got plenty of the plastic blocks but I think building something out of wood will be fine for offloading the jack. It already has serious wheel chocks and is level side to side.
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Old 01-10-2022, 06:33 PM   #13
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Odd question here...

Anyone have any concern that long-term parking with a nose-high attitude like this could put uneven wear on the axles? Seems like the rear axle will be taking a larger share of the load and the front a lessened share, since the pivot point for nose up/nose down is between the axles.

Not saying it's a problem, but it reminds me of what our parents used to say about what happens if you keep making "that face" long enough - your face will stay like that.
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Old 01-10-2022, 07:06 PM   #14
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Odd question here...

Anyone have any concern that long-term parking with a nose-high attitude like this could put uneven wear on the axles? Seems like the rear axle will be taking a larger share of the load and the front a lessened share, since the pivot point for nose up/nose down is between the axles.

Not saying it's a problem, but it reminds me of what our parents used to say about what happens if you keep making "that face" long enough - your face will stay like that.
Yes. When I park nose high, I put one Lego block under the front tires and raise the jack till hubs to fender well are the same distance.

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Old 01-11-2022, 06:27 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by richard5933 View Post
Odd question here...

Anyone have any concern that long-term parking with a nose-high attitude like this could put uneven wear on the axles? Seems like the rear axle will be taking a larger share of the load and the front a lessened share, since the pivot point for nose up/nose down is between the axles.

Not saying it's a problem, but it reminds me of what our parents used to say about what happens if you keep making "that face" long enough - your face will stay like that.
That is what I was saying back in post three. I think it could be a problem. You can either add legos under the front axle tire or jack up the trailer on the axle plate to reduce the pressure on the rear axles.
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Old 01-11-2022, 06:45 PM   #16
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I use 6x6 blocks under coupler to take the load off jack. If I had the height you show, I would probably build a strong stand with treated lumber since it's not something you need to carry with you.
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Old 01-16-2022, 01:22 PM   #17
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If I were storing my trailer in the same spot all the time and for extended periods, I'd weld up a hd tripod jack stand with a 2 5/16 ball on it and set the tongue on that, chock the wheels and extend the stabilizers. Also adds a little security with the hitch locked.
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Old 01-16-2022, 07:50 PM   #18
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Another possible way to look at this. I don't know what surface you are parking on, I see the pavers but some type of black gravely substance.

We parked our 25' on a decent incline for a while and I, too, did not like that amount of extension on the jack. I dug out some 'wheel well's for the trailer to back into. It lowers the axles a bit and it helped us out a lot with the jack extension.

Perhaps a bit of investigation into lowering where the wheels sit in relation to the jack. Another benefit of digging these 'wells' is that when you back in, the back of the 'wells' gives you tactile feedback when you are in the right location.

Just another possiblity.
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Old 01-17-2022, 04:57 AM   #19
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Another possible way to look at this. I don't know what surface you are parking on, I see the pavers but some type of black gravely substance.

We parked our 25' on a decent incline for a while and I, too, did not like that amount of extension on the jack. I dug out some 'wheel well's for the trailer to back into. It lowers the axles a bit and it helped us out a lot with the jack extension.

Perhaps a bit of investigation into lowering where the wheels sit in relation to the jack. Another benefit of digging these 'wells' is that when you back in, the back of the 'wells' gives you tactile feedback when you are in the right location.

Just another possiblity.
Perhaps regrading a small area would be a better option than digging out the area under the wheels.

Not sure about the newer trailers but the Airstream manual for mine specifically cautions against doing this.

I don't know the exact reason they had for the caution, but to me it would create other potentials for problems, especially over gravel. Some potential problems I see are: moisture retention under the trailer, inadvertently bottoming out and damaging something, and making it easier for rodents to enter. Moisture retention would be my main concern, especially over a surface like gravel or dirt.
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Old 01-17-2022, 07:54 AM   #20
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Odd question here...

Anyone have any concern that long-term parking with a nose-high attitude like this could put uneven wear on the axles? Seems like the rear axle will be taking a larger share of the load and the front a lessened share, since the pivot point for nose up/nose down is between the axles.

Not saying it's a problem, but it reminds me of what our parents used to say about what happens if you keep making "that face" long enough - your face will stay like that.
Yes. I just put new axles under mine, and want to extend the life of the rubber springs as well as avoid flat spots developing on the new tires.

I lower the trailer tongue all the way, creating a nose-down condition. I set automotive jack stands just behind the rear axle extended to the frame as close as possible. Then I jack the nose back up. My driveway slopes down to the street, so level is approximately 26” hitch-to-pavement, so the axles and tires are lifted off the pavement when doing this.

I can post a pic if necessary.

I also reduce tire air pressure to 30 to help reduce sidewall cracking; then increase back up for traveling.

Hope this helps.

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