Dented a rear quarter panel - what kind of repair am I looking at?

[Wazbro]

I don't have experience with Olympic rivets or Buck rivets for repairs, I have an 88 if it doesn't leak it's just added corrector. I just mentioned it to make sure you know there is a difference. I do know the Buck rivets are stronger, I don"t think strength would make any difference in your repair.
As for insurance if you go with $4300 for Buck rivets, definitely go through insurance. If you go with $2300 at your dealer, to me it's borderline to pay the extra $1300 or the insurance hassle and see how it effects your policy.

[Torpedo Family]

I had National Insurance and had a claim like yours but was for $4,500.00. National General went up on my premiums for three years over $5,000.00. Needless to say I changed Insurance Companies after being with National general over ten years. Not a bargain to file. Make sure your premiums will not increase from this claim. Just saying.

[subfan1]

Originally Posted by Torpedo Family

I had National Insurance and had a claim like yours but was for $4,500.00. National General went up on my premiums for three years over $5,000.00. Needless to say I changed Insurance Companies after being with National general over ten years. Not a bargain to file. Make sure your premiums will not increase from this claim. Just saying.

Hi I have National General. If you don’t mind my asking, which carrier did you go with? My renewal is December

[DaveP]

I have had my trailer repaired with Olympic rivets by professionals and I have done my own repairs with Olympic rivets. The results were just as good as the bucked rivets (maybe better with tighter joints). Just like with bucked rivets, if the holes and seams are sealed with a good sealant, there should be no problems.

[SuperTrouper]

Originally Posted by BT2513

Question 1: Is it worth the wait, travel time, and hassle of going to JC for buck rivets on this job? There are a few things that I could have them address while I'm there - likely under warranty - but they aren't exactly holding me up now.

Question 2: Does the hivemind recommend I file this with my insurance? I've never had a claim before on any of my insured assets and am generally naive to this process. My deductible appears to be $1000.

If it were me, Q1: No. Q2: I wouldn't file. Just need to make sure the repair looks as new.

My coach is a 2008 so my decision matrix may be skewed.

Brad

[PatLee]

I recommend going to JC for the repair along with a growing list of warranty items for them to fix in June. Don’t worry about them disputing if items are warrantied or not. They will fix it all, no matter. And yes, use your insurance. That’s why you have it. If they don’t treat you right, plan to move your business to a more responsive provider I.e. Geico, USAA. Good luck.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by BT2513

Finally spoke to JC today on the phone and came away with some info and more questions...

They can repair with Olympic rivets for ~$2500. Since AS of Gboro is cheaper, I'd likely avoid the hassle, wait, and additional expense of getting the trailer into JC and just do AS of Gboro if I go the Olympic rivet route.

They estimated that repairing using buck rivets would be ~$4300 and about a 3 day repair which would have me taking off ~5 days of work if I can't leave over a weekend.

The gentleman on the phone advised that since the trailer is basically new, he would personally opt for the buck rivets if he were planning on keeping the unit to bring it officially to original condition. He also advised that usually insurance companies will pay for buck rivets if the unit is within 2 years old (which mine is). The main thing is that they are currently booking appointments no earlier than June of 2022. He acknowledged that one would have to really know what they were looking at to tell the difference between buck rivets and olympic rivets - no idea what the differences are, myself.

Question 1: Is it worth the wait, travel time, and hassle of going to JC for buck rivets on this job? There are a few things that I could have them address while I'm there - likely under warranty - but they aren't exactly holding me up now.

Question 2: Does the hivemind recommend I file this with my insurance? I've never had a claim before on any of my insured assets and am generally naive to this process. My deductible appears to be $1000.

Your not that far from JC, if you can spare the time. Buck Rivets require removing the inner insulation around your bed, and require 2 people to install; one inside with his tool and one outside with his tool on each rivet. The "new" Olympics they showed me have insulation around each one and the technician said they also seal very well around the new seams and rivets. Showed me the difference which if you look close up on my pics earlier, you can see how they are very difficult to see any difference when finished. He has been doing this with JC for 16 years and said he would prefer the new Olympics from what he has witnessed. Not only faster because you don't have to remove the iner aluminum around the bed if the damage is not inside, they have a very tight grip and all have an insulation layer over the metal post to help seal when installed. If you have a good local AS shop, surely a consideration...JC gets my vote...driving from TX is a tough one, but results are excellent.

I have Progressive Insurance. Our premium went up $200 to $850/year...but we are registered in MT. I would turn it in. My insurance paid me full price less my $1200 deductible. Why would you not turn it in? Thats why we have insurance, right? Other option might be maybe your local AS guys can just pull those dents out? I would explore that...it doesn't look as bad as mine and there are several Youtubes showing before and after dent repair on AS's if you Google it.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by BT2513

Finally spoke to JC today on the phone and came away with some info and more questions...

They can repair with Olympic rivets for ~$2500. Since AS of Gboro is cheaper, I'd likely avoid the hassle, wait, and additional expense of getting the trailer into JC and just do AS of Gboro if I go the Olympic rivet route.

They estimated that repairing using buck rivets would be ~$4300 and about a 3 day repair which would have me taking off ~5 days of work if I can't leave over a weekend.

The gentleman on the phone advised that since the trailer is basically new, he would personally opt for the buck rivets if he were planning on keeping the unit to bring it officially to original condition. He also advised that usually insurance companies will pay for buck rivets if the unit is within 2 years old (which mine is). The main thing is that they are currently booking appointments no earlier than June of 2022. He acknowledged that one would have to really know what they were looking at to tell the difference between buck rivets and olympic rivets - no idea what the differences are, myself.

Question 1: Is it worth the wait, travel time, and hassle of going to JC for buck rivets on this job? There are a few things that I could have them address while I'm there - likely under warranty - but they aren't exactly holding me up now.

Question 2: Does the hivemind recommend I file this with my insurance? I've never had a claim before on any of my insured assets and am generally naive to this process. My deductible appears to be $1000.

Hi

I would have it done with buck rivets on a new(er) trailer. Once you look, you will be able to spot the difference. Get it done right.

Insurance is up to you. The repair could easily cost a bit more once they tear into things. That's true regardless of where you go for the repair. Getting insurance involved *after* the skins have been pulled ... hmmm ....

If indeed the risk of premiums going up with a claim of a few thousand dollars is a big concern, why have insurance with a 1K deductable? Move the deductible up to $5K or more. You *will* save money every year .... If the company you are with has you worried about major repercussions from filing a claim, why use that company? .....

No, that's not to say being concerned about the impact of a claim is unfounded. Unfortunately it is a very rational concern. Filing a claim for $1100 with a $1,000 deductible is silly regardless of who you use.

Fun ... (not)

Bob

[BT2513]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

If indeed the risk of premiums going up with a claim of a few thousand dollars is a big concern, why have insurance with a 1K deductable? Move the deductible up to $5K or more. You *will* save money every year .... If the company you are with has you worried about major repercussions from filing a claim, why use that company? .....

No, that's not to say being concerned about the impact of a claim is unfounded. Unfortunately it is a very rational concern. Filing a claim for $1100 with a $1,000 deductible is silly regardless of who you use.

Fun ... (not)

Bob

My hesitancy to use insurance stems from my upbringing and the mantra that insurance is for emergencies - of which, this really isn't one. However, your point is well taken. If my premiums go up a few hundred a year, I'm not at all going to be bothered by it. I am more concerned of premiums doubling or more. I just don't have any experience with insurance companies in general to really estimate what is going to happen.

That being said, I agree that if they treat me poorly during this process I will absolutely shop the insurance. But for now, I'm stuck with them at least until this process is done playing out.

[BT2513]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

If you have a good local AS shop, surely a consideration...JC gets my vote...driving from TX is a tough one, but results are excellent.

I think my local shop is capable enough. I know we are not as far as some but we work full time and have kids in school. Getting the unit up there will be a huge hassle. Worth it if its the difference of it looking janky vs. brand new but if we are talking minute details, then I'm not sure if I can justify what will likely be an entire week of PTO I'll have to take. I'm not so worried about strength as it seems my dent is 100% cosmetic. As long as the rivets seal, then I think I can live with that. Also, I run the risk of creating some other problem by them removing the dinette (not the bed in my case) to install the buck rivets. I just would hate for something to get damaged only to find the issue later and have to drag it all the way back. Maybe that fear is unfounded...

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by [U

[/U]uncle_bob;2548567]Hi

I would have it done with buck rivets on a new(er) trailer. Once you look, you will be able to spot the difference. Get it done right.

Insurance is up to you. The repair could easily cost a bit more once they tear into things. That's true regardless of where you go for the repair. Getting insurance involved *after* the skins have been pulled ... hmmm ....

If indeed the risk of premiums going up with a claim of a few thousand dollars is a big concern, why have insurance with a 1K deductable? Move the deductible up to $5K or more. You *will* save money every year .... If the company you are with has you worried about major repercussions from filing a claim, why use that company? .....

No, that's not to say being concerned about the impact of a claim is unfounded. Unfortunately it is a very rational concern. Filing a claim for $1100 with a $1,000 deductible is silly regardless of who you use.

Fun ... (not)

Bob

Not so sure about your claim about Olympic rivets vs Buck Rivets, UB...check out the finished product in my picture- Olympic rivets on left; original Buck rivets on right in picture.. When the Olympics are finished, they look pretty darned close, but no dents around each rivet like the Buck Rivets have....all sealed with insulated shaft of the rivet on the Olympic...guys I talked with said the new Olympics are excellent and a lot less costly.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by BT2513

I think my local shop is capable enough. I know we are not as far as some but we work full time and have kids in school. Getting the unit up there will be a huge hassle. Worth it if its the difference of it looking janky vs. brand new but if we are talking minute details, then I'm not sure if I can justify what will likely be an entire week of PTO I'll have to take. I'm not so worried about strength as it seems my dent is 100% cosmetic. As long as the rivets seal, then I think I can live with that. Also, I run the risk of creating some other problem by them removing the dinette (not the bed in my case) to install the buck rivets. I just would hate for something to get damaged only to find the issue later and have to drag it all the way back. Maybe that fear is unfounded...

Understand your situation...I just didn't feel comfortable with the recommended location in Dallas doing my repairs others had used, after driving all the way up there from Austin with my AS. Couldn't get in to the Austin shop nor the Dallas shop so I elected to go back to JC and get a lot of little stuff done while there...worked out for me, but TX is a long way vs NC, IMHO...hope yours comes out like new...mine did!

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by BigSxyWhtGuy

I’d go to JC if you’re willing. They have all the tools and experience necessary to get it done the right way. Dealers will always be hit or miss.

I believe insurance can always be involved with panel replacements assuming your insurance covers it. Panel replacements aren’t just a couple hundred bucks though I can’t tell you how much one is but I assure you it’s likely over your deductible.

You can call JC and they will give you a quote over the phone on what the approx repair cost is as well as schedule you an appointment. Be mindful of snow and road conditions into winter and beyond.

Same side same damage on our 2017 30' Classic cost $ 4,700 to repair at JC 3 years ago. Insurance claim with Nationwide they paid without any hassle.
Not paying attention pulling away from the fuel island and I nicked a bollard turning to soon.

[Ky76Argosy]

Food for thought. Dent looks merely cosmetic, right? If so try pulling out with a plunger, or try a Fix a Dent type repair? Or do nothing until you figure to sell. Heck save that money and use for great trip somewhere special. I know many want a perfect gleaming silver bullet but a cosmetic dent is a character mark. But the real deal Is you are using and oops. All AS left in a driveway will look pretty. I know you feel bad for your baby too. If not getting some other person’s insurance to pay and you gotta pay those big bucks and not selling then it makes no sense to this old Argosy guy.

[waynebrv]

My 2004 is in the shop at in Richmond VA now. LF & Rear top. While sitting, waiting for appointment, a tree top broke off, flew across the top of my unit taking out air conditioner and slide awning brackets. I have USAA and I doubt my policy will change.
Regardless, I went from a 13.5k to a 15.5k AC.
I felt sick towing it in to the Airstream dealer. They remembered my unit, the only one local with a slide, immaculate, but now it looked like a tornado victim.
All the estimates were done remotely with pictures, with insurance and dealer in unadvised total blind agreement on same costs and damages right down the line.
Either I made good pictures or Airstream is same same parts and cots.
Wayne

[PeeWee 83]

I did something similar. I backed into our mailbox and damaged the rear right quarter panel. I took my Air Stream to the dealer since no one in or around Austin Texas works with aluminum. I thought the small dent could be pulled out since there was no crease. I got the estimate. Lover $18,000 for labor. Over $9,000 for parts. Needless to say the insurance company is involved, and I will be getting rid of the air stream as soon as the repairs are done.

[KK4YZ]

Originally Posted by PeeWee 83

I did something similar. I backed into our mailbox and damaged the rear right quarter panel. I took my Air Stream to the dealer since no one in or around Austin Texas works with aluminum. I thought the small dent could be pulled out since there was no crease. I got the estimate. Lover $18,000 for labor. Over $9,000 for parts. Needless to say the insurance company is involved, and I will be getting rid of the air stream as soon as the repairs are done.

$27K just to replace one panel? That seems way out of whack. Is there other damage? (Frame?)

[Life is a Highway]

Take it to JC. You will be glad you did. I would not file a claim. The insurance increase is not worth.

Sorry this happened to you it’s upsetting to dent a trailer.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by PeeWee 83

I did something similar. I backed into our mailbox and damaged the rear right quarter panel. I took my Air Stream to the dealer since no one in or around Austin Texas works with aluminum. I thought the small dent could be pulled out since there was no crease. I got the estimate. Lover $18,000 for labor. Over $9,000 for parts. Needless to say the insurance company is involved, and I will be getting rid of the air stream as soon as the repairs are done.

Love to see a picture. that seems like a "lot"..my repairs were $6500 at JC...did you send the pictures to JC for an estimate? I had $1200 deductible, with Progressive...our insurance went up $200/year since I filed...but thats why we have insurance...for when you need it.

[PeeWee 83]

No I haven’t sent anything to JC. Don’t know where JC is located. The damage looks very similar to one of the photos that is on line. No damage to the frame. Just the panel an molding under the window.