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Old 03-03-2011, 11:12 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boatdoc View Post
Hi Brian;
There are issues with using self tapping SS screws in aluminum sheeting. Galvanic corrosion is one of them, but not the most critical. Pending the grade of SS, this can be minimized to a negligent rate. The problem is in number of threads per inch on a screw, and thickness of aluminum sheeting. With 0.035" thick aluminum you only get a half threads worth of bite which is usually further pre stressed by over tightening the screw. Second and most important is the issue of flex and vibrations in the trailer while on the road. The very minuscule grip gets even further pre stressed to the point where screws loosen up and eventually fall out. The guy following you finds them later in his tires.

Standard pop rivet is better than a sheet metal screw. While grip contact area is much greater that that of a sheet metal screws, you may encounter other issues.
You will contend with a hole in the head of the rivet for one. Secondly, pop rivet pin often tends to break right by the head of the draw pin, thus allowing head of the pin to fall out. This is most common when selecting too short of grip range. Eventually, in this situation as the rivet loosens up with time they begin to leak.

The Olympic Rivet is designed to offer most support when it comes to sheet metal and it should be used exclusively in such applications. Thanks, "Boatdoc"
Now that is useful information,,,Never would have known that.

Shane
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Old 03-03-2011, 01:21 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by nm1oqrz View Post
There are pop rivets that have the end sealed so they can't leak through. They are used on gutters alot. You will stil have to put something in the outside hole where the mandrel broke off during installation but it is strictly for cosmetic purposes
Regards nm1oqrz
Hi nm1ogrz;
Yes, they will not leak through pull pin hole. Fill the hole mainly for cosmetic reason, although it is not good to have dirt and water in it. With years aluminum sealed rivet may corrode and develop a leak as the seal cap is not very thick above the pull pin head. Thanks, "Boatdoc"
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Old 03-03-2011, 02:57 PM   #23
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Boat Dock:

Thanks for the info. I went and bought the Olympic rivets. Job is done and looks good. I know somebody who has the rivet shaver and they will let my borrow it.

Brian
Pictures? I have a water heater install in the near future and would really like to see how yours ended up.
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Old 03-08-2011, 02:01 AM   #24
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screws

What about aircraft grade aluminum phillips screws???
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lothlorian View Post
Norm:

I just realized today that I am going to have to make modification to make the hot water heater fit. I have the aluminum angle iron fitted around the hot water heater for support. I will have to raise the bed frame off the ground a little but I think it will work. I am all ready to go with finishing the water except the weather is not cooperating. I still have not made the decesion with either screws or rivets.

Brian
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:26 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boatdoc View Post
Hi Brian;
There are issues with using self tapping SS screws in aluminum sheeting. Galvanic corrosion is one of them, but not the most critical. Pending the grade of SS, this can be minimized to a negligent rate. The problem is in number of threads per inch on a screw, and thickness of aluminum sheeting. With 0.035" thick aluminum you only get a half threads worth of bite which is usually further pre stressed by over tightening the screw. Second and most important is the issue of flex and vibrations in the trailer while on the road. The very minuscule grip gets even further pre stressed to the point where screws loosen up and eventually fall out. The guy following you finds them later in his tires.

Standard pop rivet is better than a sheet metal screw. While grip contact area is much greater that that of a sheet metal screws, you may encounter other issues.
You will contend with a hole in the head of the rivet for one. Secondly, pop rivet pin often tends to break right by the head of the draw pin, thus allowing head of the pin to fall out. This is most common when selecting too short of grip range. Eventually, in this situation as the rivet loosens up with time they begin to leak.

The Olympic Rivet is designed to offer most support when it comes to sheet metal and it should be used exclusively in such applications. Thanks, "Boatdoc"
What about cherrymax rivets? What is the difference between cherrymax and olypic rivets and which style pop rivets are best to use?
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Old 03-18-2011, 08:51 AM   #26
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I used S.S. screws on all the roof vents and on the bottom of the wall for the belly pan. The thought on the belly pan was so I could remove the pan if got damaged or if I wanted to get in there. I vulkumed the screws inside and out so I don't think they will loosen up.
Still not sure if this was the way to go, I might pull the screws on the belly pan and use buck rivets.
Thanks for the info here.
Doug
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Old 03-18-2011, 08:56 AM   #27
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Quote:
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I used S.S. screws on all the roof vents and on the bottom of the wall for the belly pan. The thought on the belly pan was so I could remove the pan if got damaged or if I wanted to get in there. I vulkumed the screws inside and out so I don't think they will loosen up.
Still not sure if this was the way to go, I might pull the screws on the belly pan and use buck rivets.
Thanks for the info here.
Doug
I'm curious, how do you plan for someone to be inside the belly pan to buck the rivets while you drive them from the outside?
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Old 03-18-2011, 09:04 AM   #28
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I'm curious, how do you plan for someone to be inside the belly pan to buck the rivets while you drive them from the outside?
The inside skin is still off right now, I will be installing that in the next few weeks.
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Old 03-18-2011, 11:46 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by tinman54 View Post
The inside skin is still off right now, I will be installing that in the next few weeks.
Vintage trailer supply has a wide flange rivet for underneath. though it has a hole, you would expect water to drain out, not in, through the bottom. The center hole makes it much easer to drill out and inspect if needed. Buck rivets can be a little more tricky to drill out. Just a thought - Rob.
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Old 03-22-2011, 06:07 PM   #30
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What about aircraft grade aluminum phillips screws???
See.. that is too obvious and makes too much sense..
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Old 03-22-2011, 06:44 PM   #31
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What about aircraft grade aluminum phillips screws???
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielB View Post
See.. that is too obvious and makes too much sense..
10 points to the first person that provides a link to "screw, aircraft grade, aluminum, phillips".

Either flat head or pan head will suffice.

Start. . . . . . . .NOW!
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Old 03-22-2011, 07:14 PM   #32
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Anyone look at McMaster Carr or Fastenal?
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Old 03-22-2011, 07:59 PM   #33
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10 points to the first person that provides a link to "screw, aircraft grade, aluminum, phillips".

Either flat head or pan head will suffice.

Start. . . . . . . .NOW!
These would probably do just fine.
Fastener Express - Socket Head Cap Screws, Metric Screws , Fasteners and Anodize - Aluminum Fasteners Nuts Washers
Come in different colors and come in plain or anodized aluminum.
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Old 03-23-2011, 12:22 AM   #34
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Screws

Look here its a start. My buddy used to be a boeing plane inspector he thought they could be found. Sorry been busy or I would have searched harder for ya. Looks like I got beat to the finish line. Make shure you thread lock those screws they will need red thread locker from 3-m not the blue it wont hold on aluminum.
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