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Old 06-03-2018, 02:35 PM   #21
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2018 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
NORTH MYRTLE BEACH , South Carolina
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I thread a lock cable through mine. They would need bolt cutters to cut cable. If they are that prepared, they are going to grab it no matter what.
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Old 06-03-2018, 04:48 PM   #22
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1973 31' Sovereign
1978 Argosy 30
1985 31' Excella
Sacramento , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
1) I have an at home parking spot for my 2017 30' Flying Cloud, and had an electrician install an outlet with a 30Amp plug. At first he ran 220 to it, and I blew the converter. So he reduced it to 110 (recommended by my Airstream shop), and after I brought the RV home from being repaired, I plugged it in but had no power. Any suggestions? I'm worried I blew the converter again. The light on the plug did not turn on when I plugged it in.

Get an outlet tester. Lowes and Home Depot carry them.

Get a 30A to 15 A adapter. Walmart may have them, or an RV shop.

Plug the adapter into the receptacle your electrician installed. Plug the tester into the adapter. The lights will tell you if it is working and installed correctly. This is a good setup to test campsite power before you hook up your trailer.

If the tester says the 30A outlet is OK move the tester to an outlet in the trailer. If it works check all the breakers. As long as you only have 120 at the receptacle it is more likely your outlet is wired wrong than the converter is blown.

Al
Your not the first.. or probably be the last to plug into 220v. That is why we always check the power at the pedistal before we plug the trailer in.

You can get a 4 pin plug for 50 amps pigtail that then goes to the 30 amp trailer plug... that only takes one side and gives you 120v. I recomend these today.. as then you always know.. you will get the full 30 amps for the trailer at 120 volts...

Getting versed on how to use a voltmeter is another item that most owners need to do. That way you can test as well as read voltages.

I was surprised that you didn't tell the electrican that its for your trailer.. pointing to it... and say... from here to their.. kinda thing. Most of them will then go out and check the input voltage for the trailer... sticker right on the body... and know what voltage you need... unless its the old style range /dryer plug that was the 3 prong... and you never told him... see the trailer for voltage/current required.

If your not versed at electrical stuff.. seek a compedent electrican... and tell them.. lookie... lookie.. again point to the trailer.. and say from here to their...

As to leaving it hooked up all the time... recomend that you check the converter for being a newer 4 step one.. if not.. nope keep the converter unplugged after charging the bats.. and once a week go out and turn it back on to bring the bats up... or else...

Do like we did.. change the converter to one of the better new dynamic progressive converter.. and have it put into the RV. Much better and higher current ability... and so far.. higher technology than what AS put in when they built the trailer... after all if you have to have it replaced... might as well get the best and get rid of the junk... makes life less stressful... etc...

Good luck... we put our ped in with 220/120 20/15 amp duplex.. so we can power the trailer of guest who come by... as well as use it for extension cords to do yard work... and run the welder to boot on the 220... sweet... Also put water line spicket and a sewer drop in place too.. that way we can clean the tanks at home... and use the trailer as a visiting mother-n-law place outside the house..

hope you didn't pop the converter again... and its just a fuse... etc..

G.m> WA6CDE
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Old 06-03-2018, 06:13 PM   #23
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2017 27' International
Lake Havasu City , Arizona
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"I’ll bet that surge protector is ripe for a thief."

Yes--have the EMS hardwired inside the trailer. That way it can't be stolen, it isn't sitting out in the rain, and you never have to worry about accidentally leaving it behind at a campground. (It's been known to happen.) It's always there, always protecting your rig, and you don't have to think about it. Progressive sells versions designed for inside installation; I had one in my last RV.

Hardwired is really a better way to go, but of course you have to do the installation or pay to have it done, so many people buy the portables just for convenience. In fact, when I bought my Airstream last spring, I bought a portable Progressive EMS. My reason was that I wanted protection ASAP, but didn't have time to schedule an installation or do the job myself.

As it turned out, I needed it: the first campground I stayed in (Mono Vista RV Park in Lee Vining, CA) had an antiquated electrical system, and on hot days the voltage would drop to 100 V or less. That would have damaged my air conditioner if the Progressive EMS hadn't shut off the shore-power connection to protect it. Sure, it was a nuisance to lose power, but it would have been worse to have to buy a new air conditioner.
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