Today is the day.

[marzboy]

Sand blast the frame don't waist time with the angle grinder, trust me

[Dingo Girl]

The only part that needs to be cleaned of rust is the *A* frame the rest I replaced with new.
Plus, I dont have a sandblaster. There is one place in town that does it but wanted a kings ransom to do it.
I've almost got it done now.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Airstream Forums mobile app

[Dingo Girl]

This is the Airstream-port in progress.
Cement will be poured in the next week or so.
Steel roof, 24 x 24 with 12 foot side walls. R-foil insulation in the roof to stop condensation drip.
A shout out to Boonstra Construction.

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[Dingo Girl]

Just finished 2nd coat of POR-15.
Probably my least favorite part of this whole project. That stuff gets on every part of me.
Someone at work asked if the black stuff on the back of my arm was an "Airstream tattoo". Wisenheimers.
I'm guessing a solid 2 weeks before the tattoo wears off.

[RM66caravel]

No you will pick at it until it's gone in a few days.
Cliff


Yes I said that! Or did I?

[Dingo Girl]

Help!
We are putting in the new axle now. Is it typical to have to cut the shock bolts shorter and should the threads face the wheel or face into the trailer on the bottom shock mount? ??

[Dingo Girl]

The old threads on the bottom mount faced the hub assembly so it should go the same way. I will go buy shorter bolts tomorrow.

[Colin H]

Originally Posted by Dingo Girl

Help!
We are putting in the new axle now. Is it typical to have to cut the shock bolts shorter and should the threads face the wheel or face into the trailer on the bottom shock mount? ??

The shocks should stand as vertical as possible in your application, so you'll need to shorten the threaded portion of the shoulder bolt in order to install it. The original welded stud was & is a very poor design, which did not allow the replacement of shocks without either removing the axle or bending the shock mount.
Thanks,
Colin

[RM66caravel]

Nooooo I removed the backing plate brakes of course and mounted the shocks and the bolts were good uncut! So to make it easy remove the brake drum and backing plate with the brakes intact on the backing plate and it will work great!
Cliff


Yes I said that! Or did I?

[Dingo Girl]

This is the handy little axle support I made to hold the axle on the floor jack when removing the old one and rolling the new axle in under the trailer. It worked like a dream!
I covered the U shaped ends in old bicycle inner tube to prevent scratching the pretty new axle.

[Dingo Girl]

Is this correct. Picture is streetside from front to back.
Or should shock go between mount and hub?
This makes the shock the most vertical. The other way it leans inwards.

[RM66caravel]

I went the other way or I would have had to shorten the bolt or drop the axle to mount it that way and then a shock change would have been rough! But nice job and how did the drilling go?
Cliff


Yes I said that! Or did I?

[Dingo Girl]

The step drill tip worked out great! Thank you.
I picked one up at the local auto parts store this morning for 12 bucks and was able to do all 4 with one bit. The spare will go back tomorrow.
I did end up switching my shock around the way you did yours. Otherwise the axle had to be dropped down to get the bolt in and out. Not convenient if a shock goes bad.

[Dingo Girl]

I did end up grinding my bolts for the shocks shorter to fit them in with out removing any wheel parts.
The auto parts store did not sell any comparable bolts.

[Dingo Girl]

I think I got a funkified axle too.
Both shock mounts were were welded in with the offset facing the same direction. I cut both bolts to exactly the same length. the curb side went in easily using all supplied washers.
the street side offset faced the hub which threw every thing off by at least 3/16 of an inch. I had grind more off that bolt to get it to fit and eliminate the fat washer that is supplied with shocks and use a regular flat washer instead.
Had I used the fat washer the bolt would have to have been ground down to the point of no threads left to put the nut on.

[Dingo Girl]

Epoxy questions:
Do you allow penetrating epoxy to cure completely before applying a second coat?
How do you know when its cured?
Can the epoxy be applied to both sides and edges of the plywood at the same time?
Is sanding required between coats?
How many coats is enough?
Thank you!

[HiHoAgRV]

Check the recoat instructions for your brand of epoxy. I find that the first coat absorbs and leaves a rough finish and can be porous. Coat #2 seals up pretty good and smooth, #3 around the edges and top side make it bullet proof.

[dbj216]

Hello Dingo Girl,

I just found and read your thread describing activities on your 67 Caravel. You are into this thing up to your neck! I'm very impressed with all you have accomplished and wish you well as the project continues. It ain't easy. You are earning a lot of Airstream merit badges. One for the grinder burn on the leg, one for the POR 15 stains on the arm, one for the shock mounting on the new axle, one for the door subfloor reinforcement, one for the subfloor replacement, and one for the external access door reseal. I'm sure I've forgotten the others.

Way to go girl!

David

[RM66caravel]

She has truly earned those and many more! Keep up the work and don't let it go to your head cuz you will screw up something and that always hurts!
Cliff


Yes I said that! Or did I?

[Dingo Girl]

Thank you for the kind words!
The rain has stopped my progress for a couple weeks now.
I'm ready to epoxy the floor and am praying for a week of nice weather.
In hindsight I should have done it in August and stored it.
Live and learn.