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Old 08-27-2017, 07:09 PM   #21
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1976 29' Ambassador
Dallas , Texas
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Posts: 140
Bump. Any thoughts out there on the need for the booster if I have an Inverter? Any additional feedback on the diagram.
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Old 08-28-2017, 05:12 AM   #22
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1995 34' Limited
1978 23' Safari
Napanee , Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tabney0315 View Post
I created the diagram in Adobe Illustrator. It takes some time to make adjustments so once I gather all final feedback. I'll go back and adjust.
Thank you, I will be quite interested on the final schematic layout. It is very impressive.
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Old 08-28-2017, 11:48 AM   #23
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2009 25' FB Flying Cloud
1973 31' Sovereign
Mt Angel , Oregon
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Wow! What a schematic!! Thanks for sharing.

Just a thought, but you might want the inline fuse for the jack at the jack. The practical reason is that you sometimes blow the jack fuse when lifting the trailer while still coupled to the tow vehicle to get pressure off hitch spring bars.

Not only have I done that, but people I've been travelling with have done that. I taped a couple extra fuses inside the propane tank lid for fast replacement. Must be a charm as haven't blown a jack fuse since.

Thanks again for sharing your diagram.
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Old 01-12-2018, 11:02 PM   #24
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
1958 26' Overlander
1966 28' Ambassador
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Is there a final diagram? I too am working on the very same lines.
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Old 02-06-2018, 11:21 AM   #25
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1973 31' Excella 500
Dallas , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuzyHomemakr View Post
Some wiring thoughts...

I like having separate utility 110V circuits, one that runs through the inverter, one that doesn't. My Xantrex 1800w inverter can only pass so much juice through. You want to be able to run the AC/space heater and the coffee machine AND blast the stereo! (BTW: that Xantrex auto-senses whether or not you're connected to shore power, so no extra switch)

I wired in a complete second system for my second AC. Got one of those 50A to twin 30A splitters, and then wired the cable directly into a small panel with a 15A plug attached to it.

Go with stranded wire if you can, not romex. I've had so many problems dealing with the romex!

Wire in an exterior plug near the fresh water fill. Comes in amazingly handy!

I like using terminal strips for the 12V system- run a fat wire to a central location, install the strip, then do all of your branches from there. Case in point: I recently installed an overhead storage area above the bed. Ran a new circuit up to a terminal strip inside the cabinet, then ran separate wiring from there to the three switched lights and two fans.

Label all of your wiring as you install it, like "to inverter" "from inverter" "refrigerator", etc. Your wiring diagram is excellent, but maybe change it around so that it corresponds to actual locations in the trailer. You're probably going to need it when it's dark, you pulled in late to a campground, nothing works, and your flashlight is dead. I call this "writing notes to my future self". Being able to troubleshoot problems fast will take you from tears to toasts in no time!

Leave strings in the wall as you run your wire, so you can pull additional wires in the future.

I like these switches: https://goo.gl/MdRN4J
Drilling a round hole is way easier than drilling a square one.

Good luck!
When you run a "fat wire" to the terminal bar, what gauge is that? 6, 8, 10? My gut tells me 8AWG stranded would be sufficient, but I'd like to know from your experience.

Cheers,
Drew
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