If you want to be sure, scuff it with some extrafine sandpaper. Don't use any sanding liquids, just sandpaper. And the second coat needs to be the POR-15, not topcoat.
I found the light sandpaper to be a good way to get rid of the nits and open up any air bubbles.
The good news is, if it took 8 hrs to do the first coat, it shouldn't take more than 4 hrs to do the second. And you've already done the hard part with the marine clean and metal prep.
Thanks Mark, I intended to use another coat of POR, not some other coating. Maybe that's where I missed something, in the terminology. Thanks for the tips/advice.
OK, Looks like we are just about all in for the full monte on our '70 Safari 23'. Has anyone ever done a sandblasting of the frame and then powdercoat instead of POR and various other coatings? It seems that with the ability to get frame/undercarriage out from underneath we could just keep rolling down to our local powdercoater, remove axle, roll her in and get'erdone.
A buddy of mine tried to talk me in to it, but there were several things standing in the way. First, it's expensive. Second, we had no way to remove the shell from the frame. Powdercoating requires a "baking" procedure, I don't know of a place that can handle a 27' trailer. I'm sure they exist, I just don't where. Let me know if you decide to do it, powdercoating is supposed to be very durable. In episode 4 (I think it was 4) of the VAP there is a discussion of powercoated axles.
Makes a nice soft bed under the camper after the sandbalting is done. It does nothing, however, to cushion the blow if you trip over part of the frame and use your ribcage to stop the fall.
ah, yes. The Frame Trip stunt, I've done that one. My knee broke the fall nicely. In fact, I do all my own stunts. Perhaps a thread with cuts/bruise pictures is in order?
just kidding. Let's not.
__________________
"Let's look Death in the face and say, 'Whatever man.'"
~ Hurley
ah, yes. The Frame Trip stunt, I've done that one. My knee broke the fall nicely. In fact, I do all my own stunts. Perhaps a thread with cuts/bruise pictures is in order?
just kidding. Let's not.
Pic's of various black and blue body parts. Hummmm........
middle aged beer bellys, busted elbows? Even I'm not that weird!
Anybody know why Airstream did this? The rib/outrigger shown next to the vice grips is about two inches too short to reach the U channel, and thus allow the shell to be bolted into the outrigger. Any harm in extending out to the shell and bolting the shell down (in what I believe would be a proper manner)? Looks like maybe just a simple mistake?
And now for my version of "the newly painted tongue". Came out pretty nice. I used the Eastwood silver paint, decided to try one of their products after all. It is harder to work with than POR, it's very thick and starts to set up quickly. But it does level out when dry and gives a vice finish.
Second, we had no way to remove the shell from the frame.
jim
Hi Jim,
I'm new around here and just started reading about restoring an AS. I've seen several restorations that required removing the shell from the frame to repair the floor. I'm confused by your statment above. Did AS change something at some point that made removing the shell from the frame impossible ?
Hey Mike, and Welcome to the 'Forums. What I meant by that is that I don't have a garage or the necessary "lifting equipment" to remove the shell from the frame. As far as I know, and I'm not an expert, the shell can be removed from any Airstream.
I've seen several examples here where people have used various methods to lift the shell off the frame, but none will really work for me. I just don't have the room or the equipment.
Hey Mike, and Welcome to the 'Forums. What I meant by that is that I don't have a garage or the necessary "lifting equipment" to remove the shell from the frame. As far as I know, and I'm not an expert, the shell can be removed from any Airstream.
Thanks for the quick reply Jim. Your post had me wondering .
Like I said, I'm new and looking into the challenges that I'd face if I where to restore an AS. I have a large shop at home and it has a 9' ceiling. From what I can tell a 60's AS is around 8' 4" tall. Not much room to work with. The problem now is the door opening is only 7' 6' high
Most anything can be done to an Airstream, but almost never, impossible, difficult, yes, impossible, no.
Getting your Airstream, as an example, in and out of your garage, is easy.
Take the tires, wheels and brakes off the axles.
Lower the trailer on to a couple of heavy duty dollies, making contact with the brake mounting flanges, and another one on the tongue jack. If you use the right dollies, your Airstream should just make it into your garage.
After you have the trailer in the garage, raise it back up, and reinstall the tires and wheels. Leave the brakes off.
After your project is complete, reverse the process and your home free.
Your neighbors will think you lost your mind when they see the trailer in your garage, wondering how your going to get it back out. But that's another story.
The only problem, is that you will have to wait to install an Airconditioner, after the trailer is back outside.
I know that 7' would not be tall enough for my 1973. The floor to ceiling dimension on the inside is about 80". Add to that 1-1/2" of roof thickness, 3/4" of floor thickness and about 5" of underfloor height and you are at about 87-1/4". That dimension also does not include anything above the ceiling such as vents or AC and nothing hanging down below the bottom of the belly pan including any kind of dollies. I know that the 60's vintage units are not as tall inside but you may be cutting it too close. If the overall height of the body from the belly pan to the top of the roof would just barely fit maybe you could remove anything on top, take off the whole axle, put a lot of grease on the bottom and slide it in.
Any chance you can increase the height of your door opening?
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