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Old 09-13-2006, 09:54 PM   #321
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1960 28' Ambassador
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Craig,

Congratulations for coming to grips with your purchase. That's the very topic we discuss on the next VAP coming out.

It's a big step really.

The side benefit after you go through all the systems, drop the belly pan, pull cabinets, plumbing, electrical. You'll have cleaned out all those pests, and examined all areas. You'll know that trailer inside and out and be able to handle w/o worry anything that comes your way!
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Old 09-15-2006, 08:38 PM   #322
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1973 27' Overlander
Possum Trot , Georgia
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HEE, HEE! Hey Tim, we got another one! I mean, uh, yes Craig, like Tim said, recognition of the problem is the first step to recovery. All kidding aside, that was a great first post. Welcome to the forum.

As to why I’m at post 300 and don’t still even have the belly pan back on, I ain’t got no time. Really, I’m timed strapped (and little cash strapped). Doing a full remodel takes a bunch of time and money. I think that if I can get that belly pan back on, the interior will move along much faster. And we will at least have something to go camping in. At least once the inner skins are back on the frame., and I get a new battery, and …..

Just so you don’t run out of good reading material, take a look at the following threads. These are just some of the guys and gals I’ve gotten mucho help and inspiration from over the last 18 months. Nice folks, all.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/floor-replacement-63-bambi-17925.html

Don claims this is Claudia’s trailer, his is the new project, a 50’s model Flying Cloud.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f321/1962-22-safari-15592.html

Carlos has done some wonderful wood work. Both he and Don (above) are artists, and it shows in their work. Their trailers are close to the age of yours. As there are many, many mechanical differences between my ’73 and the late ‘50’s, early ‘60’s trailers, there will be some interesting and informative things for in there for you.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142/63-me-many-good-ideas-your-new-you-trailer-11687.html

Everybody Loves Uwe. Wait until you see how this one turned out.

These are just a few of many on the forum. You can find the answer to just about any question here, and if you can’t, fire away. Somebody will know the answer. Hey, that gives me an idea for a new thread, Hummmm…

If you haven’t done it yet, go to Tim’s site www.TheVap.com. You will love it!

That’s about it for now. Good luck with your resto, and keep us posted. Pictures, we love pictures. Gotta show us how you did it.

Jim

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Old 09-17-2006, 07:19 PM   #323
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1973 27' Overlander
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Well, I learned a couple of things this weekend. Take a look at pic number one. See that rusted looking bolt? This bolt had sheared off at some point in the past and the PO replaced it with a plain-Jane stove bolt (or some such). The stairs would always slip or kneel to the right when we stepped on it. I guess I never payed much attention to it (the old bolt, that is). I took one of the bolts out of the arms that hold on the lower step and cut out the stove bolt. Steps work perfectly now. Nice and sturdy. Of course, the lower step is unusable and now rests in its folded position on top of the upper step. I can get a new bolt from Airstream at some time in the future. It’s one of those things that can wait until later, as we only really need one step. And the new bolt costs, get this, $15.00!! But at least they are still available. If anybody needs the part numbers (yes numbers plural, the bolt actually consists of 4 separate parts), just let me know. They are not the same as the original that are listed in the shop manual.

Last, I greased up the channel that the stair rides in and it opens and closes like new. The old spring mechanism works exactly as it should. Pops right down in proper locking position. Nice feeling to have something correct for a change.

Jim
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Old 09-17-2006, 07:32 PM   #324
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1973 27' Overlander
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The other thing I learned this weekend was that my earlier suspicions about the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator being a real problem over the long run is absolutely true. The pics are of the new pan for the black water tank. It was mounted in the camper about two months ago. It had to be removed because of other finalization work that needed done on the frame in preparation for the belly pan reinstall.

Every place I have used this stuff, rust is beginning to come back thru the material. I have had NO problem with the POR-15 anywhere. This is such a problem that I’m going to contact the company. Maybe I got a bad batch? Who knows, though I can say that it was applied according to directions, as much as humanly possible. I’ve had to repaint the inside and underside of that pan with POR.

BUT, the really good news is that I am now ready to put the dang belly pan back on the camper, another major milestone. I really thought we would get this done way back in July. Man, did I miss that mark. Also, I can get it out of the driveway and back in the backyard behind the fence, much to the relief of my neighbors, I’m sure. Now, if I can just stop working 12 hour days before the summer sun turns to winter darkness…..


Jim
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:17 AM   #325
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Glad no one hurt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Well, I learned a couple of things this weekend. Take a look at pic number one. See that rusted looking bolt? This bolt had sheared off at some point in the past and the PO replaced it with a plain-Jane stove bolt (or some such). The stairs would always slip or kneel to the right when we stepped on it. I guess I never payed much attention to it (the old bolt, that is). I took one of the bolts out of the arms that hold on the lower step and cut out the stove bolt. ......... Jim
An old timer told me that the most dangerous place on RV's is the steps. More injuries there than anywhere else. Not sure if that is true.
Inland RV also has the bolts.
Ankles, hips and leg breaks are more expensive than bolts.
Thanks for sharing with us. Great work.

R
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Old 09-29-2006, 10:32 PM   #326
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1973 27' Overlander
Possum Trot , Georgia
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One of the members asked that I share the part numbers for the step bolt assembly mentioned a few post back. The assembly is actually four separate parts, so here you go.

Hinge Pin—680214 (old part number is 01149) cost is $5.43
Socket Bolt—680222 (old part number is 01149) cost is $6.33
Wave Washer—680224 (old part number is 01155) cost is $1.64
Aluminum Washer—680225 (old part number is 00695) cost is $2.09
Airstream faxed this to our local Airstream dealer after I provided the old part numbers. They have apparently renumbered many of their old parts to some new standard.

Tomorrow, the belly starts going back on, Yip, Yip, Hoooooooraaaaay!

Jim
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Old 10-09-2006, 06:54 PM   #327
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1973 27' Overlander
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So, I FINALLY got to start putting the banana wrap/belly pan back on.

The various pieces were in pretty rough shape. See the first two pics. This is what the inside of the skins looked like. All of that rust from the frame and aluminum corrosion caused by constant exposure to moisture (both from the rainwater leaking in and the insulation becoming soaked and never drying out).

I cleaned and scrubbed everything, then cleaned again using the two finest grades of scotch bright pads I could get my hands on. Once everything dried, I applied a coat of alodine, let that dry, then painted with a coat of silver, rust preventive spray paint.

Now, I know what you’re thinking, OVERKILL! But, I want to get a few (10, 15?) years more service out of these panels. All of this stuff is coming back off in a five or six years to inspect that dang frame, so maybe I’ll replace it then, maybe not? Addionally, painting the surfaces will allow me to see where the new problems may be (water leaks, new corrosion, etc)

A word of caution about alodine. BE VERY CAREFUL with this stuff. It’s very toxic until it cures.

As always, your results may vary. Let’s be careful out there. And now for the next subject....


Jim
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Old 10-09-2006, 07:08 PM   #328
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In a never a ending attempt flog the deceased equine, The reason that this era trailer has so many problems with the floors and frames is that THEY ARE DESIGNED TO LEAK. Sorry, couldn’t help myself.

That screw driver is not forced into the banana wrap. That is the “natural” opening there. Obviously, water pours into the belly of the camper. But it’s not just the simple fact that the enormous leaks are built into the trailer. The Boys at Jackson Center actually placed some of the rivets in such a way that you have to drill INTO the actual wooden floor in order for the rivets to hold the outer aluminum to the U-channel. Drilled holes in the wooden floor plus a freeway of water from rain equals floor rot (2+2=3.99999999, right?)

And now for the next subject……
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Old 10-09-2006, 07:48 PM   #329
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Well, the next subject is that the $#@!!*? garage door opener stopped working, so this will have to wait until tomorrow, or maybe Wednesday. Here I am ranting about a 35 year old American made trailer has issues, and my 5 year old Mexican made garage door opener has crapped out. Oh, the irony, the irony.........

Jim
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Old 10-09-2006, 10:22 PM   #330
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1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
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Thanks for the new pics and info on your restoration. When I reinstalled my Banana wrap I filled it with Valcum and then I put vulcum in each of the screw hole. The screws are what holds the banana wrap on the 63 models. The layering of the metal is maybe not a bad on your trailer but it was a natural avenue for water to find its way into the plywood. I'm hoping that what I've done will help solve the problem. Only time will tell.
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Old 10-15-2006, 09:01 PM   #331
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So, we’ve made a ton of progress over the past two weekends. All of the banana wrap is back on. The Belly Pan forward of the axles is back on.

We decided to use Parrbond (see pic 1) to close those gaps at the top of the banana wraps. That seems to be working fairly well. This stuff is designed to be used on openings of 1/8” or less. Some of the openings were greater that that, so I had to use Vulkem there. We’ll see how it goes. The Parrbond has a rubber base and should be flexible enough to handle the movement of the trailer. I put the first of the Parrbond on there Monday night and is still a bit “tacky”. It seems to take a while to cure.
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Old 10-15-2006, 09:12 PM   #332
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1973 27' Overlander
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So, a couple of more questions for the battle hardened among us. Does anybody know what this row of rivets is about? The picture is of the Curbside Radius banana wrap which is upside down in the photo. The rivets don’t connect anything. They just seem to be there for some reason unknown. Possibly to add strength because this piece of sheet metal has a large bend from the vertical to the horizontal? Not a big deal, really, just curious.

Jim
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Old 10-15-2006, 09:23 PM   #333
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What has anybody done to replace the cheap plastic pieces that surround the A-frame at the front of the camper? They are falling apart and need replacing. Sorry, no good picture of the area behind them, I wasn’t thinking that far ahead. Suffice to say that there is yet another huge gap for rain water/road spray to leak into the belly pan.

My current thinking is to simply cut a piece of aluminum, seal with Vulkem (or something) and rivet into place. Anybody got a better idea? (please!)

Jim
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Old 10-15-2006, 10:10 PM   #334
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Jim & Susan, On our 63 Bambi and 55FC there is no plastic or other material to make this seal at the frame and belly pan. So I just use lots of Valcum to seal it up. Your idea of making an aluminum piece first will have a greater finished look. Great work.
Don
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Old 10-15-2006, 11:07 PM   #335
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1968 24' Tradewind
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My '68 has only vulkem to keep the rain out... and ants; this is where my carpenter ants gained entrance to the trailer!

I also vulkemed the crud out of the banana wrap.. it does seem a precarious area!!!! I just hope the Vulkem stands up to the job, cause it will be somewhat hidden behind the trim.
---
Lookin good! I don't envy you dropping the b/w tank (2X)- for me it was a MAJOR struggle- lots of cussing etc....
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Old 10-16-2006, 08:00 AM   #336
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I only sealed the trim, rather than the banana wrap joint itself. use alot les parbond that way...an 0 vulkem...
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Old 10-17-2006, 07:17 PM   #337
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1973 27' Overlander
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One of the things that I knew we wouldn’t get right was all of those holes in the rear bath area. I decided to epoxy both the top and bottom of the sheet of plywood floor that rests under the bath. The Bottom was done before the floor went back in. The top had to wait until more of the trailer was bolted back on. True to form, we had to enlarge a couple of the holes, and the battery box cutout was too big.

We finally got to that point over the weekend. Tonight, I epoxied the top of the bath floor. Maybe that will help keep some of that dang water off the floor and frame.
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Old 10-17-2006, 09:19 PM   #338
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Well, it could be worse... you could have put the toilet so close to the tub that it nearly doesn't fit ... or flush (side-pull flush) .... which I will discuss on my thread... no hijacking
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Old 10-19-2006, 03:16 PM   #339
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So I've got a question for you Epoxy gurus. When I did that bathroom floor two nights ago, weather was perfect (temp wise), but it was a bit humid. The epoxy I used was the last of the West Marine stuff I bought back in January when we put in the floor.

The areas that I just covered have cured, but have a greasy or oily film on top. What did I do wrong? The epoxy just bit too old? What do I need to do to clean it up? Let it evaporate? Leave it alone? Any ideas appreciated.

Jim
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Old 10-19-2006, 03:50 PM   #340
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Check the exact product notes at West Marine, but sounds like your application has "Blushed" (amine blush) with a greasy film that rises to the surface of almost all epoxies except for the cycloaliphtic systems.

http://www.westsystem.com/webpages/u...lems/index.htm
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