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Old 05-02-2006, 08:46 AM   #241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Looks like you were right Andy. I got a chance to look at a '72 on Saturday and the striker "plate" is actually a pocket. The P.O. on mine obviuosly replaced the pocket with a simple (and crude) plate that is preventing the door from closing properly.

So, Andy, ballpark, what does one of these run?

JIm

P.S. So, is anybody else having problems uploading pics tonight?

Jim.

We are not allowed to post prices on items that we sell.

Cast stainless anything, is not cheap.

You must also use a "brass shim" with the cast stainless striker pocket.

The striker bolt actually rides on the shim, instead of the pocket.

That stops the stainless pocket from cutting a groove in the striker bolt.

Andy
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Old 05-25-2006, 05:08 PM   #242
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hi jim and susan, andy and the whole full monty gang......

friend of mine recently purchased a 70's soverign with international upgrades...they will be doing a restoration and remodel but for now just camping, enjoying the trailer and thinking about the how to proceed......

recently an upper vista view was broken from the OUTSIDE...inner layer still intact....well with a small hole....

i've read all i could find here on vv repairs......
-new version will fit doing a rivet/frame preplacement correct?
-glass isn't available for repairs leaving the old frame intact, correct?
-no one gets glass vendors to make replacement safety glass right?
-i know removing the inner layer is one main method for clearing the deteriorated film, creating a single pane version....

but there problem is outer pane......so that means getting a new one (which is already single pane) drilling out rivets, removing vulcum and frame and replacing with olympic rivets, vulcem and so on?

thanks for letting me intrude on your thread.....some of the other vista view links now seem to be dead or leaking.....just like the windows

cheers
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Old 05-25-2006, 08:31 PM   #243
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Welllll....let's sort thru a couple things. First, my Vista Views are in good shape except fo the fact that the glaziers putty, or whatever it is properly called, is "moving around" between the panes and needs to be replaced. They don't leak and are not broken (fingers firmly crossed).

Mine are the "two part" type, meaning that the outer pane is glass. Sandwitched in between is the putty mentioned above. Next, on the interior side is a plastic (plexi?) pane. This is a multiple later system, each layer can be removed (carefully), to get to the next. All of the layers are held together on the interior by a large snap ring that rests between the aluminum frame and the inner plastic pane.

From what I have read here on the forums, this design changed sometime in the '70's. The VV's were later made as a "one piece" assembly. I have read that some folks have actually had to break the inner (plastic) pane out of the assembly in order to replace the "sunshade" film that is affixed to the outer pane. This film has a tendency to flake and peel and pictures I have seen look really nasty.

Do they make replacements? Don't really know. In the back of my mind, I want to recall that there is one, but it is essentially a single pane that requires complete removal of the entire original assembly. Lots of drilling old stuff out and riveting new stuff in. I could be confusing this with the wrap-around-windows on the front of the trailer. Somebody will know.

Can you have one made? I'll bet you surely can, but at what cost? Have your buddy check with ColawsRV. I know that the have a '76 on the lot right now. The VV's may still be intact. He might get lucky.

Just out of curiousity, is this a '72 31' Excella from PA with a broken curbside VV? I looked at one of those about a month ago and would lie/cheat/steal for that trailer. That window was the only serious problem with that trailer. It looked like it had been "garaged" its entire life. The owner didn't want to sell. If it's the same one, I wouldn't care if it cost me $1000 to fix that window. It would be worth every cent.

Jim
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Old 05-26-2006, 10:35 AM   #244
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Jim.

The inside glazing is not available from Airstream.

The old double pane vista views are replaced with a single pane vista view.

Those are available from Airstream, through a dealer.

Andy
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Old 06-04-2006, 08:38 PM   #245
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And then it started to rain.....

All great camping stories have that line in them somewhere. But..... I finally finished reworking the AC shroud today. Yea, I know, it took long enough. About 15 minutes after I got the last coat of paint on, it started to rain, so I didnít get it back up on top of the camper yet.

I started all of this back in January and got the idea from looking at forum member TomWís website. Tom had to bail me out yesterday when he kindly answered my email and helped with the correct type of paint and primer.

To recap, you will need fiber glass mat and ABS glue. Crudely form the mat to approximate shapes and ďpaintĒ with the glue. Once they are dried a bit, attach them in pieces, more glue, more mat. Slowly add mat until the shape is more or less what you want, over several days to allow for plenty of good drying time. Once that is complete, get out the Bondo. A few thin layers, sand, a few more thin layers, sand some more. Once all of that is done, time for paint. The mistake I almost made was using automotive paint. Tom told me to use primers especially made for plastic. Back to Lowes for the store brand plastic paint primer. A couple of coats of that followed by a couple of coats of the Lowes recommended top coat paint and youíre done.

I didnít like the way the back of it came out, but thatís the way it goes some days. The top of the opening seen in pic number four didnít want to work out correctly. No matter how I tried, I couldnít get all those curves right. But, it is strong and sturdy now and should hold up well.

A couple of notes. I had to strengthen several areas with aluminum i.e.,the area around the rear opening and top opening. Those areas were very brittle. The top opening was a little hard (a lot hard) to sand correctly, so I finally gave up and left it roughly sanded. What the hey, nobody is gonna see that part, right?

The first pic is of the gaping hole in the curbside rear that needed to be repaired.
Second is of the repairs complete.
Third is of the repairs complete and new paint.
Fourth is of the Back area.
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Old 06-04-2006, 09:02 PM   #246
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Next on the agenda is to get that stupid belly pan back on. I really expected to be way past this point by now and working on the interior.

The picture is of the pan that the black water tank sits in. I put a coat of Eastwoodís silver encapsulater on it (POR-15 like paint, itís what I had left over from the tongue redo). The old one was very badly rusted and had to be replaced. Once this is in, then move forward the water tank (a whole Ďnuther story). A few outriggers need some work. Then button it all up.
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Old 06-04-2006, 09:13 PM   #247
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OK, so a little help from my friends. I’ve tried everything to clean the fresh water tank. I’ve used bleach, Clorox Outdoor, vinegar, soap and water, that blue stuff from the RV place, more bleach. Nothing seems to get this brown film out. If you can touch it, you can rub/wash it off. The problem, of course, is that you can’t reach into the tank but a few inches and this stuff is everywhere from about 1 inch above the bottom of the tank. A friend suggested muratic acid, anybody ever try that? When I was a kid, we used it to clean the swimming pools at Scout camp before camp opened for the season. It was safe enough for that use, but then, we were able to rinse it of the pool very well, before the pool was refilled for the summer. Any ideas?




Jim
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:16 AM   #248
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Try one of those product for the washing machine to get rust out. Seems it has to be rust or iron from the water, little held on by static cling. Fact is I cann't imagine how anything harmful could still be in there. Use it as is. Near every water pipe in every house has the same stuff in it.
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Old 06-05-2006, 10:25 AM   #249
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Quote:
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Try one of those product for the washing machine to get rust out. Seems it has to be rust or iron from the water, little held on by static cling. Fact is I cann't imagine how anything harmful could still be in there. Use it as is. Near every water pipe in every house has the same stuff in it.
You know, I hadn't even considered that it might be hard water deposits. And you're right, old pipes do have build up that doesn't seem to be harmful. Maybe the best bet is a good water filter and move on. I guess I have a tendency to obsess over some of these things (like rear end sag, for one). í59, I think you just saved me a bunch of money. Thanks for the info.

Jim

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Old 06-05-2006, 11:04 AM   #250
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Quote:
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You know, I hadn't even considered that it might be hard water deposits. And you're right, old pipes do have build up that doesn't seem to be harmful. Maybe the best bet is a good water filter and move on. I guess I have a tendency to obsess over some of these things (like rear end sag, for one). í59, I think you just saved me a bunch of money. Thanks for the info.

Jim
yep...I think you're right.

But I will qualify that by saying that we don't drink from the water tank, either. Ours is a "weekender' trailer, and a couple of jugs of dihydrogen monoxide are plenty for us. We only use the tank for washing.

there is a product called "glisten" that is available in the grocery store that might work. Its meant for dishwashers...don't know if its the abrasive quality of this powder that does the trick, or what, but it really does the job. Makes the dishwasher look like new. maybe you could improvise and mix up a batch in a few gallons of hot water, and slosh it around in there. In its intended mode, you just run the dishwasher with this stuff in the soap dispenser, instead of regular dish soap. But perhaps some of the cleaning power comes from those high-pressure jets, "sandblasting" the walls, which would be hard to duplicate in the water tank. but it might be worth a try.
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Old 06-05-2006, 11:12 AM   #251
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yep...I think you're right.

But I will qualify that by saying that we don't drink from the water tank, either. Ours is a "weekender' trailer, and a couple of jugs of dihydrogen monoxide are plenty for us. We only use the tank for washing.

there is a product called "glisten" that is available in the grocery store that might work. Its meant for dishwashers...don't know if its the abrasive quality of this powder that does the trick, or what, but it really does the job. Makes the dishwasher look like new. maybe you could improvise and mix up a batch in a few gallons of hot water, and slosh it around in there. In its intended mode, you just run the dishwasher with this stuff in the soap dispenser, instead of regular dish soap. But perhaps some of the cleaning power comes from those high-pressure jets, "sandblasting" the walls, which would be hard to duplicate in the water tank. but it might be worth a try.

I think it's a strong base like. You will want to raise well.

We also use bottled water on the road and at home for drinking as we drink alot of water.
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Old 06-05-2006, 12:03 PM   #252
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I think it's a strong base like. You will want to raise well.

We also use bottled water on the road and at home for drinking as we drink alot of water.
and here, I thought you only filled your tank with that grape juice....
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Old 06-09-2006, 03:30 PM   #253
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Chuck, 59, you guys are geniuses. It was hard water deposits. I used a product called CLR to get it out. Looks like new in there now. The only caution with this stuff is that you have to rinse it very, very well. Iím not used to dealing with hard water deposits here in Georgia, though I should have thought of it from our many years of living in West Damn Texas!

I simply poured a container of it in there, had #3 child help me pick it up and swish it around for a few minutes, then start rinsing. CLR can be used with coffee pots and around the kitchen to remove Calcium, Lime and Rust stains, so I figured it must be safe for this purpose.

Thanks for the tip, guys. You just saved me $500!

Jim
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Old 06-09-2006, 04:41 PM   #254
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Need help Jim

Jim,
You helped me with the problem door lock now I need your help again. My trailer is at a rv repair shop now with that dad blasted A/c leak again (by the way your shroud looks great) anyway they have pulled our shroud and keep telling me there is not a seal did you see one when you pulled your shroud, also they are telling me there is some kind of pan in there did you see that?
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Old 06-10-2006, 08:30 PM   #255
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Hey, Becky, we've had a house full of relatives from Florida this weeekend, so I'm kinda tired right now. I would like to take to a few pics tomorrow and give you a better idea. But for now.....

There is no seal (gasket) between my A/C unit and the top of the camper. On mine, there is a whole lotta Vulkem between the bottom of the shroud and the roof. This acts as the seal.

You have an original Armstrong A/c unit still, right? I think you already looked for these things, but I'm gonna list a few of them anyway......

Look for obvious problams like bird nests (really, I found one). The drain tube itself. Has anybody poured water down it to make sure that bees (like southern mud daubers) haven't plugged the end of it on the bottom of the trailer?

I'll have more tomorrow, with pictures. Just tired now.

Jim
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Old 06-11-2006, 07:39 PM   #256
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Not the best picture in the world, but it shows how all of the hard water/calcium/lime/rust stuff went away after the CLR was used. It's good stuff, but you have to rinse and rinse and rinse. Smells sweet and ready to use now.

Jim
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Old 06-11-2006, 07:49 PM   #257
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Becky, this looks kinda complicated, but it isn't, really. The first pic is of the the top of the AC with the cover over the plenum removed. That is the area where the fan motor pulls in the air from the trailer, cools it, and sends it back into the trailer. Pic number two shows the cover back on. There really shouldn't be any leaks here just because of the way it closes up. For those playing the home game, all that fiberglass attracts odors and smells really bad. That ďold trailer smellĒ is all over this stuff. Needless to say, itís all coming out, cleaned & replaced.
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Old 06-11-2006, 08:12 PM   #258
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If I had to guess, after looking at everything again this afternoon, I would say that the leaks would have to be coming from one of the following. See where the screws are that hold the AC to the roof?

The unit is set upon the roof on top of a heavy layer of Vulkem. There may be a gasket or other seal in there, but I canít see it if there is one. The AC is set on the roof, then the screws are put in. Then another layer of Vulkem. Then the shroud is set on top of the whole assembly. In other words, the areas most likely to leak in a rain storm are where the screws pierce the roof. Possibly the structure above that Vulkem ďsealĒ, but the aluminum structure around the various assemblies are built in such a way that either the aluminum sub-structure or the shroud cover the areas that might leak.
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Old 06-11-2006, 09:26 PM   #259
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Thanks so much!!!!

Jim thanks so much for all the info you have helped me a whole lot I think the screws may be the problem at least the left side screws that's where it leaks what a great help. I owe you more than one cold one now.
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Old 06-14-2006, 06:17 PM   #260
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The Good

So I went out to the Airstream after work tonight. Iím tired of working on the same old stuff. So I decide to go into the garage and have a look-see at the fridge. I havenít bothered to look at it up to now, just havenít gotten there yet. I had plugged it in and turned it one once or twice, but it didnít work. Time to trouble shoot.

Since it doesnít work, try to trouble shoot the electric side first (easier than the gas side). I get out the old digital multi-meter and start following the circuit back to the heating element. Everything works until I get to the element itself. Time to pull the element out. Voila, the wires going to the element from the 110v supply are corroded and literally broken in half. So, I do the only thing reasonable. I fix the broken wires, wire it all back together and plug it in. It works! The heating element begins to heat and the pipes start to quietly gurgle.

Hereís what the heating element looks like.

Jim
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