The spacers seem to be the least of the problem. Two long (and fairly straight) cuts with all the hoses still attached seems to be a challenge.
I was planning on using some sort of cutting wheel (the one that does not make sparks, not the grinding kind) to make a deep groove... then finish off with hack saw blade to control manually the final cut...
I have a welding mat that I will place over the hoses...
The spacers seem to be the least of the problem. Two long (and fairly straight) cuts with all the hoses still attached seems to be a challenge.
Agree - also have to drill at least six holes for the bolts to remount panel. Thinking about this overnight it might be easier to make a single cut to top near Sprinter body. Then remove the rivets and discard the remaining top part of the panel. Lastly drill holes to remount the shortened panel back on inner body using large self tapping screws. Alternatively you could leave the top part of panel riveted to body as it is a strong connection. Then use it to remount the shortened panel with a thin spacer and self tapping screws. This would be stronger then screws in the thin body sheet metal. I'm sure Airstream used large rivets for this panel as they form a stronger attachment compared to self tapping screws they have used elsewhere on the underside of Interstates.
Great ideas going back and forth here. I linked this thread to an older thread on the LP Fill Panel so searchers can find it in the future. Once we get this worked out in various fashions we should build a dedicated thread for others to find. Many good ideas can get lost in these long threads of unrelated mods.
__________________
- - Mike
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2024 Airstream Interstate 19e AWD
Previous: 2013 Airstream Interstate 3500 Ext Lounge
...it might be easier to make a single cut to top near Sprinter body. Then remove the rivets and discard the remaining top part of the panel. Lastly drill holes to remount the shortened panel back...
This is what I originally was thinking of doing... I have additional 1/4" rivets left over from the battery trays install that I was planning on using to secure it back in place...
But on second thought, I am thinking of not removing that... those are nicely secured in place and I would prefer to just follow the second approach even if it means making an additional cut and using spacers.
All will come down to what is easier and provides a solid install of the panel.
Agree... once done, a separate write up in its own thread would be good for others to search and find... nested in my main thread would not help others looking for this... I will copy it all to that thread linked.
What type of rivets did you use for battery trays? They look like Huck rivets in the aviation industry I came from and require a special tool. Also think drilling the three lower holes for remounting bolts will be a lot easier if done on the solid panel before making that lower cut.
__________________
- - Mike
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2024 Airstream Interstate 19e AWD
Previous: 2013 Airstream Interstate 3500 Ext Lounge
Note to Boxster regarding links - intending to be helpful, not critical: Your link in the other thread took me to the top of this long thread. It would be good to include the page number or post # of any linked thread.
My two cents worth: Other than having to make two cuts, I like the idea of removing the middle 3" and bolting the two 1/2" stubs together. There would be a large bending moment on this joint - so use big washers. Spacers would make this problem worse - so I would relocate the remote LPG port (which I have never used!) and eliminate the need for spacers. The existing 4" long piece will also flex and would seem to be as fragile as the new 1/2" bolted joint would be. And you could run an angled piece from the chassis to the bottom of the fill panel if that proves to be a problem.
What type of rivets did you use for battery trays? They look like Huck rivets in the aviation industry I came from and require a special tool. Also think drilling the three lower holes for remounting bolts will be a lot easier if done on the solid panel before making that lower cut.
1/4" x 1/2" stainless steel pop rivets... had to buy a new/larger rivet gun for those...
Also got a box of 1/4" assorted rivets in different lengths (for future projects)... . Might as well since I had the tool for them... These I got in aluminum... but still have a few stainless steel left...
Yes, I do plan to drill the holes before cutting. Will make a template to avoid misalignment. Best to do those before cutting to, as you highlighted, leverage the current solid mount. Will do 1/4" holes and use stainless steel bolts. I was thinking that 4 bolts would be enough...
...My two cents worth: Other than having to make two cuts, I like the idea of removing the middle 3" and bolting the two 1/2" stubs together. There would be a large bending moment on this joint - so use big washers. Spacers would make this problem worse - so I would relocate the remote LPG port (which I have never used!) and eliminate the need for spacers. The existing 4" long piece will also flex and would seem to be as fragile as the new 1/2" bolted joint would be. And you could run an angled piece from the chassis to the bottom of the fill panel if that proves to be a problem.
Thank you for the heads up. Maybe I can make the spacer out of the left over middle piece removed... and nothing goes to waste.... we have the technology to cut it... but I also have some left over aluminum stock that I can shape as well...easier to work with... humm... thinking out-loud again... but that would avoid the small spacers I was thinking of using. Good catch Titus!
I use the quick disconnect with my grill... so I want to keep it in place and not have to deal with trying to relocate it...
As far as holding the hinged piece closed:
The bottom of the trim piece has a horizontal rib pointing inward. I wonder if you could rivet a elongated 'U' piece to the bottom of the fixed piece and have the hinged piece 'snap' into it. You might fabricate a similar bracket and rivet it to the rear side of the mud flap to hold the front of the newly-hinged panel.
As far as holding the hinged piece closed:
The bottom of the trim piece has a horizontal rib pointing inward. I wonder if you could rivet a elongated 'U' piece to the bottom of the fixed piece and have the hinged piece 'snap' into it. You might fabricate a similar bracket and rivet it to the rear side of the mud flap to hold the front of the newly-hinged panel.
I was thinking of a simple steel tab and a magnet on the door...
Those would certainly work (all-plastic one seems better for the dirty environment) but I am not sure what two surfaces would close against each other as those are intended to do. (But after all the other work getting to that point, I am sure that the closer will seem easy!). Maybe the now-hinged trim can close against the hinged cover of the relocated LPG box that is behind the trim? Male piece on the trim, female on the LPG cover???
Note to Boxster regarding links - intending to be helpful, not critical: Your link in the other thread took me to the top of this long thread. It would be good to include the page number or post # of any linked thread.
My two cents worth: Other than having to make two cuts, I like the idea of removing the middle 3" and bolting the two 1/2" stubs together. There would be a large bending moment on this joint - so use big washers. Spacers would make this problem worse - so I would relocate the remote LPG port (which I have never used!) and eliminate the need for spacers. The existing 4" long piece will also flex and would seem to be as fragile as the new 1/2" bolted joint would be. And you could run an angled piece from the chassis to the bottom of the fill panel if that proves to be a problem.
Good point Titus. Post number better than page due to various viewer options. I added a post reference to post #690 above where things really get started. It's great to finally see a workable fix for this LP Fill Panel problem that has plagued Interstate owners since 2010.
I just took a look under my van and made some rough measurements. The two cut solution does look better. On my Interstate if I lower the new panel location by 1/4" I think it would clear the quick-connect elbow fitting and thus not need spacers. But I also agree the relocating the quick-connect fitting would be a better solution. I use mine all the time as I have an Olympic gas grill that I can hang on side of van right above the LP panel.
I have the same 1/4" SS pop rivets that wachuko referenced he used for the battery tray install. They are not as strong as the Huck type rivets that Airstream used to solidly mount the LP panel.
Keeping the upper part of the Airstream installed panel will provide the best solid base for this mod. Three or four 1/4" bolts on the new joint, without spacers, would be just as strong as the existing panel as it has over 5" lever are from Fill Panel to attaching point on inner body structure.
Many thanks to wachuko for getting this idea started. Here is photo I took a few years ago of how Midwest Automotive mounts a similar panel higher in same spot.
__________________
- - Mike
--------------------------
2024 Airstream Interstate 19e AWD
Previous: 2013 Airstream Interstate 3500 Ext Lounge
NICE! Euro tags always fill in nicely in Euro vehicles. Local tags on Euro vehicles look like moto tags on cars. DMV should offer the Euro length tags as part of their Personalized Plates option
Stuff I have pending to do (a few new added that I do not want to forget) :
Raise the whole propane hookup/filling assembly behind the side sill (and make a cutout on the side sill)... and reroute the generator exhaust... this will clear the back from damage when backing over a parking stop. This is in progress...
Elongated toilet –Dometic 321 Series Low Profile Toilet
Need to add a hammer to the toolbox (I have spare ones in the garage, just a note to remember to add it this afternoon).
Need to add some tongue and groove pliers to the toolbox (yes, same as above).
Prime Design - Rear Door Access Ladder . Don’t care that the wife does not like the looks of it… I want the rear (door mounted) ladder… She is not the one having to clean the solar panels and having to drag the ladder out every time I clean them…
Tool cabinets liners - these are to wrap the bottles in the bar to avoid rattles/noise - Amazon link
Switch for Fusion head unit
Switch for propane valve
Install the ShowerMi$er
Redo the cover of the foldable bed. I need to round the corners that I forgot to do and are damaging the vinyl. Will recover each piece of wood panel separately in a different material (cloth and beige color). Got everything that I need for this task.
Buy and install a drain valve for the fresh water tank (suggestion from Protagonist) to replace the plug currently there.
Modify seat or panel to allow rear passenger seat to swivel around. The passenger chair (second row), does not turn around all the way. Hoping that I can just loosen the bolts and there is enough play/clearance in the base that I can slide it forward just enough to clear the back. Might have to elongate the holes if there is no play to work with...more elegant approach than cutting the wood panel where it touches, or cutting the corners on the rotating seat base...
Order or get locally, viper alarm system - this will have to wait for now...
Self-leveling system... due to cost, this will take awhile, but keeping it on the list. There are less costly alternatives like Bullseye system that I could install myself (if they can get their s* together and have all the parts available for shipping)
Buy the materials for a second foldable bed - this can wait and just have three sleeping on the bed (and we just got a queen air matress so it should be even more comfortable) and one on the foldable bed I already have.
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