Visit our Popular Forums

wachuko · 05-20-2018, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

Don't know who that is or the reference.

That is the famous Cool McCool!! And one of his phrases is “Danger is my middle name”.

I was just trying to make a funny reference... but now the moment is gone...

Alex AVI · 05-20-2018, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

Following your progress on relocating the LP Fill Panel with great interest. You are doing the same thing I was planning, but the next step is more of a challenge. How do you plan to cut that bracket with the LP lines attached?

Or are you going to empty the LP tank and disconnect the lines? That's the dilemma.

+1 Never scares me to do electricity live but I just petrified of tooling around/near any type of gas

wachuko · 05-20-2018, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boom23

You might want to make the assembly a little more sturdy...

I just filled the propane for the first time and the attendant was pretty physical with the propane nozzle and the RV inlet. The whole RV was shaking.

The rivets might get loose over time. Maybe more overlap and two rows of rivets, or zig zag?

Just a suggestion.

Also, in case you have not thought about it, which I am sure you did, the bracket supporting the skirt would probably be a good place to mount the magnet to keep the opening closed.

Great Job! You are very brave with the mini hack saw.

I plan to do this modification also. Thank you for sharing.

I can also use bolts to secure it. Thank you for the suggestion. It needs to be as sturdy or more than when it was stock.

On the supporting bracket. Yes! That is why I wanted to see if I could cut right next to it. It will serve as the point where the magnet attaches to.

Thanks again!

wachuko · 05-20-2018, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boom23

If you are thinking about silver trim pieces, here are a couple from a quick search:

https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Overla.../dp/B01E3COKK6

https://www.amazon.com/YIJINSHENG-3m...ASVS2NFYXEBX0T

Thank you. I will try touch up paint first... but most likely I will need to do the trim... I think it will look better than just leaving it without it... but I will try to find it in silver instead of chrome. To make it disappear... So I will order the second one on your post.

Boxster1971 · 05-20-2018, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex AVI

+1 Never scares me to do electricity live but I just petrified of tooling around/near any type of gas

Agree. But a hacksaw or drill with lube oil should not produce any sparks. I would not recommend a grinder or cut-off disk tool. I'm going to have a closer look at my van now to see if I can get this done.

For relocating the quick-connect fitting I'll have to drill a large hole and get a proper bulkhead fitting. Not going to try to re-weld the old fitting on the panel.

An aluminum continuous hinge would also work for remounting the trim piece

wachuko · 05-20-2018, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex AVI

+1 Never scares me to do electricity live but I just petrified of tooling around/near any type of gas

Just hold my beer while I do this...

wachuko · 05-20-2018, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

Agree. But a hacksaw or drill with lube oil should not produce any sparks. I would not recommend a grinder or cut-off disk tool. I'm going to have a closer look at my van now to see if I can get this done.

For relocating the quick-connect fitting I'll have to drill a large hole and get a proper bulkhead fitting. Not going to try to re-weld the old fitting on the panel.

An aluminum continuous hinge would also work for remounting the trim piece

^ This!!! Even a hack saw... I can use a small cutting disk with the dremel to make the path... and then use a hack saw to finish the cut... I am in no hurry and can take the time cutting it...

I got this hinge... should be here in a few weeks. Stainless steel. But as you mentioned, aluminum should work as well...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Boxster1971 · 05-20-2018, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wachuko

That is the famous Cool McCool!! And one of his phrases is “Danger is my middle name”.

I was just trying to make a funny reference... but now the moment is gone...

Sorry - I was in college when the Cool McCool animated series ran on NBC (1966-1969). I didn't watch much TV during those years.

Boxster1971 · 05-20-2018, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wachuko

^ This!!! Even a hack saw... I can use a small cutting disk with the dremel to make the path... and then use a hack saw to finish the cut... I am in no hurry and can take the time cutting it...

I got this hinge... should be here in a few weeks. Stainless steel. But as you mentioned, aluminum should work as well...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for link to SS hinge, that would be stronger than aluminum. Here is the type of bulkhead fitting that might work to re-locate the quick-connect fitting.
https://www.amazon.com/Legines-Fitti...dp/B074FT9JJG/

wachuko · 05-20-2018, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

Thanks for link to SS hinge, that would be stronger than aluminum. Here is the type of bulkhead fitting that might work to re-locate the quick-connect fitting.
https://www.amazon.com/Legines-Fitti...dp/B074FT9JJG/

I was not planning on relocating the quick disconnect. I was just going to place a spacer to push the whole thing back so that the connector clears the chassis.

And because of this, use bolts to secure everything together...

Makes sense?

Boom23 · 05-20-2018, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wachuko

Thank you. I will try touch up paint first... but most likely I will need to do the trim... I think it will look better than just leaving it without it... but I will try to find it in silver instead of chrome. To make it disappear... So I will order the second one on your post.

Some more trim that might not be as shiny:

https://www.amazon.com/Protector-COS...lver+edge+trim

https://www.amazon.com/Matched-Moldi...lver+edge+trim

Boxster1971 · 05-20-2018, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wachuko

I was not planning on relocating the quick disconnect. I was just going to place a spacer to push the whole thing back so that the connector clears the chassis.

And because of this, use bolts to secure everything together...

Makes sense?

Not sure there is enough room to do what you suggest. Might be if you use about 1/2" spacers. Definitely bolts required for this. I'll have to look close and measure. Sure would be easier if you don't have to re-locate that connector.

Boxster1971 · 05-20-2018, 07:42 PM

Ok - looking at this closer I'm thinking a piece of 3/4" square tubing would make an adequate spacer. That also would mean mounting the panel about 1/4" lower than you suggested above. Not a big issue. Plan to spend some time tomorrow under van checking dimensions.

Alex AVI · 05-20-2018, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wachuko

Thank you. I will try touch up paint first... but most likely I will need to do the trim... I think it will look better than just leaving it without it... but I will try to find it in silver instead of chrome. To make it disappear... So I will order the second one on your post.

You did such a wonderful job on that cut (freehand, you one brave cookie). I personally think the paint touchup will end up looking great coz the cut was clean and so the 2 edges will match up. Whichever way you end up finishing the edge, yours will look so much cleaner setup than the rest of us mortals.

Boom23 · 05-20-2018, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex AVI

You did such a wonderful job on that cut (freehand, you one brave cookie). I personally think the paint touchup will end up looking great coz the cut was clean and so the 2 edges will match up. Whichever way you end up finishing the edge, yours will look so much cleaner setup than the rest of us mortals.

I agree. Great job!

For myself, I might try a Japanese saw, or a Japanese Panel saw. They cut really thin and are really sharp. With a hard edge as a guide, one can cut a thin straight line.

rmkrum · 05-20-2018, 10:43 PM

Another possibility is one of the oscillating saws (Fein or other brands) and a sturdy guide like a straight piece of hardwood.

wachuko · 05-21-2018, 02:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Another possibility is one of the oscillating saws (Fein or other brands) and a sturdy guide like a straight piece of hardwood.

I have one...but it was raining...I did not wanted to end up listed in the Darwin Award site...

http://www.darwinawards.com

Titus · 05-21-2018, 05:43 AM

From the pictures on post #690 the lower trim of the 2018 TB appears to be the same as my 2013 EXT. Like with the 2018 there are straps of metal riveted between the Sprinter panel and the bottom of the plastic trim, including one about where the cut would be made. MY question: How is the top of the plastic Airstream trim connected to the bottom of the metal Sprinter panel? Double-stick 3M tape? And how do you cut the very top of the plastic trim with it still attached to the bottom of the Sprinter panel? Seems that any type/size/shape of saw would not only saw through the plastic but also the adjacent Sprinter panel.

The plastic trim appears to fit tight against the Sprinter panel. Doesn't the use of a hinge in between the two cause the bottom of the newly-hinged panel to be lower than the adjacent fixed panel? From your picture in 690 it doesn't look like you cut away any of the top of the plastic panel to make up for the thickness of the hinge. Of maybe the hinge is no thicker than the double-stick tape???

I am a bit reluctant to cut with the panel in place, but even more reluctant to remove the entire panel. But I want to do something because I feel I am living on borrowed time with the current poor design.

wachuko · 05-21-2018, 05:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Titus

From the pictures on post #690 the lower trim of the 2018 TB appears to be the same as my 2013 EXT. Like with the 2018 there are straps of metal riveted between the Sprinter panel and the bottom of the plastic trim, including one about where the cut would be made. MY question: How is the top of the plastic Airstream trim connected to the bottom of the metal Sprinter panel? Double-stick 3M tape? And how do you cut the very top of the plastic trim with it still attached to the bottom of the Sprinter panel? Seems that any type/size/shape of saw would not only saw through the plastic but also the adjacent Sprinter panel.

The plastic trim appears to fit tight against the Sprinter panel. Doesn't the use of a hinge in between the two cause the bottom of the newly-hinged panel to be lower than the adjacent fixed panel? From your picture in 690 it doesn't look like you cut away any of the top of the plastic panel to make up for the thickness of the hinge. Of maybe the hinge is no thicker than the double-stick tape???

I am a bit reluctant to cut with the panel in place, but even more reluctant to remove the entire panel. But I want to do something because I feel I am living on borrowed time with the current poor design.

Plastic trim is held in place by gray double face tape and self-tap screws (there was only one screw on the side I cut).

I made the cut right besides bracket on purpose. Just happens to be the exact length to not have to cut the 12" piano hinge

The hinge is very thin... so there should not be any issues with alignment of the trim already in place.

I removed the self-tap screw and placed a thin plastic on top while I was cutting... this way, when I reached the top, I had a few mm of that plastic to avoid any damage to the AI. Once you remove the self-tap, you can push a little downwards and avoid touching anything else... remember, I was using a small hacksaw blade... so I was able to control the speed of the cut.

The hinge is indeed not thicker than the double face tape. I just need to make sure that the bolts or rivets used, do not change that thickness... also keep in mind that the thickest part of the hinge is at the curvature for the trim and AI... so there is additional clearance there to accommodate the hinge...

wachuko · 05-21-2018, 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

Ok - looking at this closer I'm thinking a piece of 3/4" square tubing would make an adequate spacer. That also would mean mounting the panel about 1/4" lower than you suggested above. Not a big issue. Plan to spend some time tomorrow under van checking dimensions.

I have some left over stainless steel spacers from a motorcycle stabilizer project... I was just planing on using those to create the spacing needed to push back the assembly and clear the quick disconnect and switch... but some square tubing works just as well.