|
|
12-22-2011, 12:15 PM
|
#401
|
Addicted
1971 27' Overlander
Currently In: Skowhegan
, ME
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 703
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by loudruff
Propride hooked up to our Excella. 10 3/4 in. from tailgate to jack.
|
Larry...you wouldn't happen to know how much space there was before you went to a PP, would you? I'd like to get an idea of how much extra space there is there now than before.
Thanks
|
|
|
12-22-2011, 12:35 PM
|
#402
|
Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
|
Hi Sean
I did this once with my 1997 Chevrolet K2500 and while I didn't measure the upshot of it was that there were a few inches clearance while parked in a straight line but with even a comparatively slight angle the tongue jack would hit the tailgate. The most useful figure is the distance between the receiver pin and the rear edge of the tailgate on the truck which will vary somewhat depending on truck and hitch. In a tight turn the tongue jack will be, at most, a couple inches aft of the centerline of the ball.
|
|
|
12-22-2011, 12:55 PM
|
#403
|
Rivet Master
2019 30' Classic
Byhalia
, Mississippi
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 821
|
Off topic to the current conversation but my hitch arrived yesterday. I've read the instructions twice and they seem pretty straight forward. I've also read all this posts in this thread. Barring a problem with gas lines and the like, this doesn't look terribly difficult. Any suggestions on how to plug holes in the frame after I remove the old hitch hardware? I don't have a welder so that is out.
__________________
Greg
|
|
|
12-22-2011, 02:00 PM
|
#404
|
Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadtoaster
Off topic to the current conversation but my hitch arrived yesterday. I've read the instructions twice and they seem pretty straight forward. I've also read all this posts in this thread. Barring a problem with gas lines and the like, this doesn't look terribly difficult. Any suggestions on how to plug holes in the frame after I remove the old hitch hardware? I don't have a welder so that is out.
|
If aesthetics are the issue, they make snap in plastic hole covers in all sort of dimensions and colors. Our local Ace hardware has some and I imagine most auto parts store would also.
Nuts and bolts painted the same color as the frame would look OK also.
Ken
|
|
|
12-22-2011, 03:30 PM
|
#405
|
Rivet Master
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.7 Metre
1989 29' Excella
Lorain County
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,246
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by exthemius
Larry...you wouldn't happen to know how much space there was before you went to a PP, would you? I'd like to get an idea of how much extra space there is there now than before.
Thanks
|
I think, roughly estimated...depending on the stinger that you have the ball mounted on.. I estimate that the PP sets the trailer back 17 inches. Sean can probably give you a more accurate number.
__________________
Larry and Lou
CP: Water/30 amp/waste dump/WIFI & Room for 2-3 units; PM us if you are headed our direction!
Air #2695
TAC- OH 2
#1420 NOVA 4-006 Charter member
|
|
|
12-22-2011, 03:32 PM
|
#406
|
Rivet Master
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.7 Metre
1989 29' Excella
Lorain County
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,246
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by loudruff
Propride hooked up to our Excella. 10 3/4 in. from tailgate to jack.
|
My apologies...my distance was to the flag pole holder. The distance to the jack stand is 12 3/4 inches.
__________________
Larry and Lou
CP: Water/30 amp/waste dump/WIFI & Room for 2-3 units; PM us if you are headed our direction!
Air #2695
TAC- OH 2
#1420 NOVA 4-006 Charter member
|
|
|
12-24-2011, 06:41 PM
|
#407
|
Rivet Master
2019 30' Classic
Byhalia
, Mississippi
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 821
|
Installed the hitch today. Took about 4 hours with no issues. Now I have to get it dialed in. In the pic below it appears I'm nose high. I'll either back off on the jacks or drop the hitch one hole. Have not weighed yet either. I will say the 1400 # bars have made the ride a little more harsh than I'm accustomed to but this may work out after more adjusting. I may also experiment with my old 1000 # bars that came off of my Curt hitch. Looks like they should fit. I also switched to a class V receiver.
__________________
Greg
|
|
|
02-26-2012, 02:59 AM
|
#408
|
2 Rivet Member
2018 27' Flying Cloud
Carnation
, Washington
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 24
|
Any idea on the amount of torque required to adjust the hitch. I am looking at cordless drill options and wondering what torque operating range it would need to fall within.
|
|
|
02-26-2012, 08:44 AM
|
#409
|
4 Rivet Member
2017 23' International
Ridgefield
, Washington
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 306
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberock
Any idea on the amount of torque required to adjust the hitch. I am looking at cordless drill options and wondering what torque operating range it would need to fall within.
|
One of the easiest ways to adjust the "jacks" on the PP when hitching or unhitching, is to use the main AS jack to lift the front of the trailer and the receiver portion of the truck hitch in order to remove the resistance to raising / lowering the side jacks. ( only a few inches of elevation are needed)
Then all one has to do is to use the typical drill motor with the appropriate adapter and quickly run those fellas up to a predetermined height, lower the main trailer jack and your off! I have a thin circumferential tape marker on the inside cylinder of each PP jack and on the provided torque handle provided by the company to indicate the level to which I must raise the jacks for travel.
It's a lot faster and less work that trying to use the hand crank. A friend mistakenly tried to use an "impact" drill motor on those jacks, and I believe there was damage....did not turn out to be a "smooth move".
|
|
|
02-26-2012, 01:02 PM
|
#410
|
Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zigidachs
One of the easiest ways to adjust the "jacks" on the PP when hitching or unhitching, is to use the main AS jack to lift the front of the trailer and the receiver portion of the truck hitch in order to remove the resistance to raising / lowering the side jacks. ( only a few inches of elevation are needed)
Then all one has to do is to use the typical drill motor with the appropriate adapter and quickly run those fellas up to a predetermined height, lower the main trailer jack and your off! I have a thin circumferential tape marker on the inside cylinder of each PP jack and on the provided torque handle provided by the company to indicate the level to which I must raise the jacks for travel.
It's a lot faster and less work that trying to use the hand crank. A friend mistakenly tried to use an "impact" drill motor on those jacks, and I believe there was damage....did not turn out to be a "smooth move".
|
I know that people use the tongue jack for that purpose with other types of WD hitches. However before I did it, I would want to know how much extra force is being placed on the tongue jack. I am sure it is substantial. It certainly wasn't designed with the idea of jacking up the rear of the TV in mind.
I use the crank type wrench that was supplied with my trailer. Its purpose is to raise/lower the stabilizer pads. However it is the same size as that required to operate the PP jacks. I have determined the number of complete rotations of the wrench for various load conditions. It raises quickly and precisely.
To answer the original question:
The torque required will depend on how much weight you are distributing.
I would suggest you raise it by hand and then use a bar type torgue wrench to measure how much it takes to raise it further. Then get a drill capable of significantly more than that.
Ken
|
|
|
02-26-2012, 05:57 PM
|
#411
|
Vintage Kin
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
|
It certainly wasn't designed with the idea of jacking up the rear of the TV in mind.
For about 35-years that I can think of.
.
|
|
|
02-26-2012, 06:18 PM
|
#412
|
Rivet Master
Port Orchard
, Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by REDNAX
It certainly wasn't designed with the idea of jacking up the rear of the TV in mind.
For about 35-years that I can think of.
.
|
Are you saying that they spend 35 years designing it that way?
I wonder if they ever accomplished it.
|
|
|
02-26-2012, 06:32 PM
|
#413
|
Vintage Kin
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
|
A couple of times I have been dumb enough to try to pry the bars without jacking. At 19, maybe (strong enough and dim enough), but now . . . . ?!!
|
|
|
02-26-2012, 06:59 PM
|
#414
|
Rivet Master
2015 30' Classic
2012 28' International
Greensboro
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,708
|
The Barker VIP 3000 that came stock on my CCD will handle 3000 pounds. I seriously doubt you are actually "lifting" the rear of your TV off the ground -- surely you're taking some weight off the springs...but my guess is your tongue jack idea would make this task easier. After my PP was installed, we "dialed in" the WD and I marked the position on the two jacks (though this surely changes with added weight in the TV, trailer, etc). Since the same 3/4" socket that works on the stabilizers also fits on the BAL jacks on the PP, I've been using that system. I have the 1400 lb bars (Sean selected them), and no issues so far. I find hitching and unhitching incredibly easy.
__________________
_________________
"SilverLeaf II" 2015 30' Classic
2019 RAM 2500 Limited 4x4 CC w/6.7L Cummins
ProPride 3P
AIR# 58452
WBCCI # 3430-Unit 21
|
|
|
04-18-2012, 08:46 PM
|
#415
|
2 Rivet Member
2008 16' International
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 64
|
Thank you 2Air! What a great resource!
I've made the leap and have ordered the ProPride for our 25' EB / Ford F-150 combo. Sean has been great as you all indicated he would be. He recommended the 1400lbs bars (the biggest) for this set up which seemed a bit beefier than I was expecting. As did Craig at Airstream Adventures NW. Reading threads it seems like lots of 1000lb bars are paired with the 25' Airstreams. In several threads there is also a "lighter bars are better" philosophy (less stress, wear and tear etc).
Ultimately Sean is the Man when it comes to making a recommendation and I'm fully planning to take his advice. But to be thourough I'm also curious to hear from anyone towing the 25'ers with the ProPride. Especially with the F-150. Thoughts on bar sizing? Any reason not to get the 1400lb bars?
Thought this might also be helpful to others in the future as part of the broader PP Unofficial Guide.
Thanks!!
BC
|
|
|
04-18-2012, 08:56 PM
|
#416
|
4 Rivet Member
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Eugene
, Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 411
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bc_seattle
Thank you 2Air! What a great resource!
I've made the leap and have ordered the ProPride for our 25' EB / Ford F-150 combo. Sean has been great as you all indicated he would be. He recommended the 1400lbs bars (the biggest) for this set up which seemed a bit beefier than I was expecting. As did Craig at Airstream Adventures NW. Reading threads it seems like lots of 1000lb bars are paired with the 25' Airstreams. In several threads there is also a "lighter bars are better" philosophy (less stress, wear and tear etc).
Ultimately Sean is the Man when it comes to making a recommendation and I'm fully planning to take his advice. But to be thourough I'm also curious to hear from anyone towing the 25'ers with the ProPride. Especially with the F-150. Thoughts on bar sizing? Any reason not to get the 1400lb bars?
Thought this might also be helpful to others in the future as part of the broader PP Unofficial Guide.
Thanks!!
BC
|
BC
I find that very interesting because he recommended the 1000 bars for my EB. I was towing with a 1/2 ton Suburban at the time but have since gotten a 3/4 ton. I suggest that you send him an email and ask him. I plan on doing the same.
- Phil
|
|
|
04-18-2012, 09:23 PM
|
#417
|
2 Rivet Member
2008 16' International
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 64
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by phbarnhart
BC
I find that very interesting because he recommended the 1000 bars for my EB. I was towing with a 1/2 ton Suburban at the time but have since gotten a 3/4 ton. I suggest that you send him an email and ask him. I plan on doing the same.
- Phil
|
Phil,
Curious about a) your experiences with the 1000lb bars and the EB and b) what drove you from 1/2 ton to 3/4 ton.
BC
|
|
|
04-18-2012, 10:05 PM
|
#418
|
4 Rivet Member
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Eugene
, Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 411
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bc_seattle
Phil,
Curious about a) your experiences with the 1000lb bars and the EB and b) what drove you from 1/2 ton to 3/4 ton.
BC
|
I'll let you know when the PP get's here after the 26th!
If you go to the Tow Vehicles forum you can find my agonizing thought process behind the switch. Basically, the 1/2 ton didn't have the payload or power to get the job done comfortably. What it came down to is not wanting to spend my vacations worrying about the weight of my trailer. As you know, we have real mountains in the Pacific NW so that was a consideration too.
|
|
|
04-18-2012, 11:52 PM
|
#419
|
2 Rivet Member
2018 27' Flying Cloud
Carnation
, Washington
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 24
|
BC Seattle I have a suspicion we meet at Airstreams NW about two weeks ago. I think my wife and I spoke with you as we were installing our ProPride on our F150 and 27' Flying Cloud. If so it sounds like Dan hooked you up on a truck.
One reason Sean may be recommending the heaver bars is based off what we are going through and not wanting to have you experience the same. When we completed our install we had to raise the jacks almost to thier maximum and still were 3/4 of inch high at the front wheels of the truck. Part of this problem was the hitch box height needing to come up and since then we have raised it 2 inches. Additionally Sean recommended we move to 1400 lb. bars so that we would not need nearly the jack height. The new bars are due to arrive on Friday.
Given that the 25' models actually have a higher tongue weight and you are towing with a F150 you are likely to experience the same issues we hit. I am betting that Sean is trying to short circuit the need to swap out the bars.
I plan on installing the new bars this weekend and taking a trip to the CAT scales in North Bend to really dial things in. You are welcome to come over and observe so you have some info going into your install.
On a side note I need to call out the outstanding customer service that Sean at ProPride provides. Not only was he availble for install help on a weekend but Easter weekend at that. No problems at all getting the bars swapped out either. I would pretty much recommend ProPride at this point on customer service alone - it is rare to see that level of commitment from a company these days.
|
|
|
04-19-2012, 12:11 PM
|
#420
|
4 Rivet Member
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Eugene
, Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 411
|
I guess that I always assumed that the bars would be determined by the TT only but I makes sense to take the TV into account as well. I wonder what it is about the F150 that requires the heavier bars?
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|