Airstream fires?

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by avionstream

A little off subject. Can I mount my extinguisher horizontally as long as I take it off and shake it once in a while? Jim

Upright is better, but horizontal is okay.

Caveat— My Airstream Interstate came from the factory with a horizontal-mounted extinguisher. The bracket holding the extinguisher was plastic, and broke after about a year of driving on Louisiana's notoriously bad roads. I replaced the bracket with an all-metal one and haven't had a problem since.

You CAN use a plastic bracket if it's bolted to the floor, but if it's bolted to a wall or a cabinet as mine was, go with a metal bracket for horizontal mounting.

[xrvr]

Thanks, that helps a lot. I bought a bigger than stock extinguisher and have a good place to mount it horizontally next to the door. Is shaking or turning it over periodically really necessary? Jim

[cwf]

Originally Posted by avionstream

Thanks, that helps a lot. I bought a bigger than stock extinguisher and have a good place to mount it horizontally next to the door. Is shaking or turning it over periodically really necessary? Jim

Jim, with the modern extinguishers it is advisable to turn bottoms up occasionally. You can't invert them too often...

I do that exercise when the "seasons" change.

[xrvr]

Thanks you guys for all the advice. I managed to do a vertical mount and will rotate a few times a year. Never done that before. I learn something new every day and I'm getting to the age where I can forget it just as quickly. I can then learn it again at a later date. One of the things that makes retirement interesting. Jin

[Jammer]

Some facts to consider.

The stock fire extinguisher on most Airstreams is a 2.5 pound dry chemical one. These are good to put out a cooking fire that hasn't spread, and not much more. In most cases, there is space for a 5 pound extinguisher. Amerex makes a chrome-plated one which, IMO, is a better choice for the decor than the standard red or white ones. In any color, the Amerex extinguishers are high quality and can be recharged when necessary.

If we are boondocking, we carry a 2.5 gallon pressurized water extinguisher in the back of our tow vehicle and, when setting up camp, place it in the area between the propane tanks and the trailer. Useful for dealing with a campfire that has gotten out of hand or that is no longer prudent due to sudden winds. These are loaded with just water and compressed air so you can refill them yourself if you want, which means that you can practice with them at no cost, which you should.

I've tried to find solid data on RV fires and haven't succeeded. The best data is anecdotal. I summarize my unscientific findings:

1) Most RV fires are electrical in origin. Of these, most involve the 120v system.
2) Most RV fires occur while the RV is parked and unoccupied, especially for travel trailers. (For motorhomes it isn't unusual for fires to originate with the running gear while under way)
3) RV fires that occur while the RV is occupied mirror stick-house fires in their statistical properties. That is, causes are typically: cooking fires, candles, smoking materials, and portable heaters.
4) Compared to other causes, fires resulting from leaks or malfunctions of the propane system are very rare.

My advice is:

1) Don't use a portable heater.
1a) If you use a portable heater, keep it 36" away from combustibles, especially bedding. (This is nearly impossible to do in an RV. See item 1 above.)
2) Quit smoking. Failing that, at least don't smoke cigarettes in bed while you're drunk.
3) If you use candles inside your airstream, do so only with great caution, especially if there are kids around.
4) Don't use portable camping appliances in your airstream (stoves, tent heaters, propane lights, etc.)
5) Take a class, get a demonstration, or use a fire extinguisher yourself in a nonemergency situation.
6) Replace your smoke alarm with a photoelectric one. They're less prone to false alarms from cooking, so you won't be as tempted to pull the battery out because it's beeping while you're frying bacon.

[blkmagikca]

Not that many people have actually seen an RV on fire, but I have. The RV was a class C motor-home built on a Toyota truck chassis (it was far from new). The lady living in it was a full-timer. This happened in Quarzsite AZ about 4 years ago. I was camped on the other side of Plomosa Road from where she was and witnessed the whole event.

The lady had gone into town earlier that day to get a propane fill. The kid doing the fill had difficulty detaching the propane hose when the fill was completed, probably because in the course of filling the MH’s tank there is a temperature drop at the nozzle causing it to contract and tighten. So the kid knocked the nozzle loose with a hammer. In so doing, he must have caused the copper propane line to either crack or loosen in the vicinity of the refrigerator. A couple of hours later the lady was sitting with friends around a campfire when someone noticed that her rig was on fire. She opened the door and was met by a wall of flame. She was able to grab her guitar case and computer, as they were near the door – everything else burned right to the ground. The intensity of the heat, fueled by the gasoline and propane was brutal. One trailer parked about 25-30 feet away from her was damaged by the heat (the aluminum exterior walls buckled).

In this case, a fire-extinguisher would have been as useful as a child’s water pistol. The lady was lucky not to have been injured, although she lost all her possessions, documents, etc.

[dateem]

I spent thirty years in policing a tourist community and have been present at several RV fires: travel trailer (one Airsteam)and motorhomes. I also built Beaver motorhomes back in the 70s (class C and their original class A). Most of the fires were the result of an electric heater being tipped over or covered up. One was from a wall mount catalytic that had something hanging in front, and a couple were from stove tops. The best advice made earlier is to have working smoke detectors. At least one in the main area and one in the sleeping area. If an RV catches these things go up hot and fast. Fire in an RV spreads much more rapidly than you can imagine, so unless it is very small and localized, get the heck out in any way you can: door, escape window or bust out the closest window. Besides the quickly spreading fire, the smoke is highly toxic and will debilitate a person very quickly. Several of the deaths I have investigated were from smoke, the detectors probably disabled or not working and at night. At least one occurred because the person would not break out the window and by the time we were able to do so they succumbed to the smoke. Bottom line, get out quickly, leave everything. Even with the water a firefighter has available most RV fires are out of control immediately and firefighting is merely an effort to keep other RVs from catching. Please don't get me wrong, I am not trying to be an alarmist and the ratio of fires to RV's on the road or being lived in is pretty small. But if one starts do not take a chance on getting hurt.

[timhortons]

Originally Posted by dateem

I spent thirty years in policing a tourist community and have been present at several RV fires: travel trailer (one Airsteam)and motorhomes. I also built Beaver motorhomes back in the 70s (class C and their original class A). Most of the fires were the result of an electric heater being tipped over or covered up. One was from a wall mount catalytic that had something hanging in front, and a couple were from stove tops. The best advice made earlier is to have working smoke detectors. At least one in the main area and one in the sleeping area. If an RV catches these things go up hot and fast. Fire in an RV spreads much more rapidly than you can imagine, so unless it is very small and localized, get the heck out in any way you can: door, escape window or bust out the closest window. Besides the quickly spreading fire, the smoke is highly toxic and will debilitate a person very quickly. Several of the deaths I have investigated were from smoke, the detectors probably disabled or not working and at night. At least one occurred because the person would not break out the window and by the time we were able to do so they succumbed to the smoke. Bottom line, get out quickly, leave everything. Even with the water a firefighter has available most RV fires are out of control immediately and firefighting is merely an effort to keep other RVs from catching. Please don't get me wrong, I am not trying to be an alarmist and the ratio of fires to RV's on the road or being lived in is pretty small. But if one starts do not take a chance on getting hurt.

This makes sense to me. You're about a zillion times more likely to be overcome by smoke(CO2), and gas yourself than burn to death,. The extinguisher is for small cooktop fires, or maybe a candle that catches a drape if you are lucky and looking at it when it happens. If you can't contain the fire you need to be out the nearest exit now. The toy extinguisher isn't going to do jack squat or clear some sort of "path". All the wood and laminate will burn with formaldehyde impregnated glue accelerating it and the foam in your seat cushions and cover, will burn like plasticy napalm once it starts with drops of acrid chlorine gas acid. Once the thing heats up the Au will warp/expand around the window and your exits won't work anyways. A wet towel if you had to jump through a flaming hot area, but faster to just get out in this small space. Don't be a hero, don't go back to save the cat/hamster/budgie etc.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by dateem

Most of the fires were the result of an electric heater being tipped over or covered up.

One was from a wall mount catalytic that had something hanging in front

Why people continue to ignore the substantial risk to life and property that these things pose is beyond me.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by timhortons

The extinguisher is for small cooktop fires, or maybe a candle that catches a drape if you are lucky and looking at it when it happens. If you can't contain the fire you need to be out the nearest exit now. The toy extinguisher isn't going to do jack squat or clear some sort of "path".

A fire extinguisher is not an answer for everything.

On the other hand, they are of great value for the many fires that start small and do not pose an immediate risk of bodily harm. Cooking fires, tire fires, grass that has ignited from a campfire, cigarette butt, or exhaust system, malfunctioning generator or grill.

[Boxite]

Contrary to popular belief, dry chemical extinguishers are NOT really suitable for cooking oil fires.

Fire Extinguishers | POLICE

[bellastream]

Originally Posted by Boxite

Contrary to popular belief, dry chemical extinguishers are NOT really suitable for cooking oil fires.

Fire Extinguishers | POLICE

He is right and a little wrong on this point. A more accurate statement would be Class ABC fire extinguishers are not really suited for kitchen fires. Most k class fire extinguishers are dry chemical extinguishers. The difference being in the nozzle. They fan the dry chemical out so as not to splash the flaming oil all over the place. Here is a good option for a K class (kitchen class) fire extinguisher http://m.homedepot.com/p/Kidde-UL-71...73N/205753448/

[MyNancy1977]

Nice to know K type

[rodsterinfl]

While we are on the topic of fires, make sure that you replace all detectors as needed- especially the LP detector. They have a life of around 6 years.

One of the best things to have in a kitchen is a container marked FIRE with baking soda in it for times when supervised accidents happen. Many times, in the kitchen, or at the grill, I have used my trusty can of soda to put out fires. It is instant. One time I was broiling bacon as per a recipe. I SHOULD have realized that the directions were dangerous but they said to place the bacon on a 12x9 baking pan- period. Well. the grease gathered and ignited on the broiler element and poof- fire out the stove door (cracked for broiling). A bit of baking soda saved the day.

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by avionstream

Thanks, that helps a lot. I bought a bigger than stock extinguisher and have a good place to mount it horizontally next to the door. Is shaking or turning it over periodically really necessary? Jim

If you are ever present when the fire inspector shows up you might observe that he reads the fire ext. placard to determine if it's still within the date-of-service/expiry... and if it is... then he turns it upside-down and gently "whacks" it with a hit from a rubber mallet... to knock the dry powder loose within the container.

Merely turning it upside down is not really adequate. The intent to to dislodge powder which becomes "packed" from inactivity. Dry chemical powders become almost SOLID from the vibration of driving down the road as the powder becomes packed. ( I once disassembled a large commercial dry-powder extinguisher when it's gauge read zero. The internal pickup/discharge tube was packed so firmly with powder it required me to jam a metal rod down the tube to dislodge the packed extinguishant. The main charge was a solid cylinder until I whacked it with a rubber mallet, whereupon it instantly returned to a loose-powder.
Lubricate the seals/O-rings with WD-40, reassemble the valve, re-charged with 150 psi of dry nitrogen (CO2 will also work if you have a welding setup)...and VOILA!.... it's returned to service (on my private property.)

Don't dent the soft container...but give it a good whack (on the firm edge of the cylinder-bottom/rim) while holding it upside down, at regular intervals ...in an RV, at the beginning of each trip during the departure-inspection would be a good rule, IMO.

[xrvr]

Thanks for the info. Jim