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Old 10-26-2006, 08:08 AM   #15
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I committed to the jumbo roll of Prodex; I've got gnarly 3M spray automotive foam adhesive and various caulk-tube style adhesives but will use thin western cedar strips for both stand offs and battan strips (attached by screws) as a positive mechanical bond at outside edges: I guess I am saying I won't trust glues to hold anything with the temperature, humidity and vibration extremes in an inaccessible area. It's not like 100's of pieces to wrestle in place so just another small detail.

Hoping for 50's temperatures today in Twin Cities to apply the por-15. Watching y'alls progress takes some sting out of the 35 years of neglect my Airstream presented me with
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Old 10-26-2006, 08:27 AM   #16
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I ordered some POR-15 a couple of days ago. Not much going to happen for a few days as it is snowing hard out as we speak
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Old 10-26-2006, 10:16 AM   #17
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I've been reel'n off the Prodex insulation, I had to work on the door, so when I had it apart I put in the Prodex, I had to remove a few other interior skins redid them with the Prodex.

The floor underside was stripped of the pink junk, and rather than place the Prodex under I'm opting for placing it on the interior floor, then putting Pergo on top of it. I'm also adding some electric heating strips about 6" wide up the center of the floor and in the bath, I'm using the empty outlet from the removed Univolt.

I also am covering the wheel wells with it. I think there is a fair amount of heat loss there. Any walls that are behind cabinets like under the galley/sink bath cabinets sofa walls and refrig vent are just some of the uses for this Prodex. I've already wrapped the Black water tank with it.

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Old 11-03-2006, 10:12 AM   #18
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Since this thread is title skin corrosion, I'm putting new bare aluminum skin on the inside of my Flying Cloud. I was considering using stainless steel screws to give it a little different look. Will this cause a corrision problem?

Thanks
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Old 11-03-2006, 11:47 AM   #19
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dmaiden - I'd be concerned on the ribs not providing 'bite' for the threads after travel vibrations and hot/cold expansion cycles. If you seriously want a screw install for a million-mile trailer you could use threaded inserts (www.aircraftspruce.com: Rivnuts). About the corrosion, do you know the alloy of the new interior pieces? This topic would make a good seperate post!

Aerowood: I was up till 2am getting 2nd & selective 3rd POR-15 coats on; cold weather doesn't affect the cure but I think might affect its' bite to a small degree via less penetrant action. By the time I was finished it was 38 F and the only problem I had was bubbles after wetting the brush w/ POR-15 solvent to make easier application, and more bubbles again after I thinned the tail end of the 'pot' once it had started thickening from cure. Also I applied the semi-gloss thats not semi-gloss but I purchased from POR-15 outlet so maybe that is why...

Of course the 38 F was accompanied by stead wind that plastered the wet paint w/ alot of debris, even got some sandblasting grit on tongue after I had meticulously swept area clean w/ leaf blower and compressed air (grrr!)

Lipets: I ended up using tremco concrete polyurethane caulk from home depot as a adhesive and a waterstop; I used 2.5" inch strips of prodex as standoffs and am mechanically attaching everything with monel rustproof T-50 staples. I have one layer of stand-offs up now and can't decide on one or two layers (.20 or .40) airspace. Nice pictures; I reinforced the black tank only so far but will drop both tanks next summer... My 'streams pictures on request.
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Old 11-03-2006, 01:03 PM   #20
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Ah, so the aluminum ribs are too soft to hold a screw? Interesting. I don't think I want to start putting in a million rivnuts.

I think it's the T2024 that's been recommended elswhere in this forum.

Thanks for the input.
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Old 11-03-2006, 01:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaiden
Ah, so the aluminum ribs are too soft to hold a screw? Interesting. I don't think I want to start putting in a million rivnuts.
.
The horizontal ribs are thin and maybe soft. The vertical ribs are more substantial and will certainly hold a screw--I think from a strength standpoint for a long time. But they will back out, I'm afraid, from vibration.
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Old 11-03-2006, 01:46 PM   #22
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LIPETS, thanks for the photo up in post #17!!! My gray tank valve leaks in my Sovereign and I've been meaning to fix it, but I would have removed the banana skin around the outlet if it hadn't been for you. What's the orientation of the photo? Is the tank with the extended arm the black or gray tank? I assume "up" in the foto is "aft" on the trailer, so the bath is to the left and the tank with arm is indeed the black tank?

And what's your take on the fluid level sensors? It appears there's only two wires on the tank with the 'arm', but four wires reconnected into two wires for the other one. I have two sets of wires, each with 2 wires, coming up through a hole in th floor. I can't see how they are connected to the tanks.

Now, how am I going to get to it? I don't want to pull up the Pergo and cut a hole in the floor, and I don't want to have to remove the belly pan. Rock and a hard place, for sure...

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Old 11-03-2006, 02:23 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
LIPETS, thanks for the photo up in post #17!!! My gray tank valve leaks in my Sovereign and I've been meaning to fix it, but I would have removed the banana skin around the outlet if it hadn't been for you. What's the orientation of the photo? Is the tank with the extended arm the black or gray tank? I assume "up" in the foto is "aft" on the trailer, so the bath is to the left and the tank with arm is indeed the black tank?

And what's your take on the fluid level sensors? It appears there's only two wires on the tank with the 'arm', but four wires reconnected into two wires for the other one. I have two sets of wires, each with 2 wires, coming up through a hole in th floor. I can't see how they are connected to the tanks.

Now, how am I going to get to it? I don't want to pull up the Pergo and cut a hole in the floor, and I don't want to have to remove the belly pan. Rock and a hard place, for sure...

Zep
up is aft correct.

The black tank, is up in the pic, the grey is at the bottom but under the floor.

There are 4 wires on each tank, but four merge to two, then there is a quick disconnect.

The wires come from the sidewall and then go through the floor inside the main frame. It should have dropped through the floor. Into the bannana skin area and through the frame.

But the factory took a shortcut I guess!

I re-routed them throught the hole already in the frame made for the valve handle, I caulked it in with a flap and it all looks good but time will tell.
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Old 11-03-2006, 05:23 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaiden
Since this thread is title skin corrosion, I'm putting new bare aluminum skin on the inside of my Flying Cloud. I was considering using stainless steel screws to give it a little different look. Will this cause a corrision problem?

Thanks
It would probably not cause corrosion unless the joint got wet. However as stated in the previous posts they will most likely vibrate loose. I plan on attaching my interior skin back on with flush rivets and then splice all the skin together using splice plates and a butt joint. This will be alot of additional work, but this is what my wife says I want to do in order to get the smooth look she says I want. We will then apply some type of paintable wall covering. This will work good for us because we are moving things around and I need to plug alot of holes anyway.

I got the POR-15 today (I had to go to Atlanta for the first part of the week) which I promply dropped a quart. Lid did not come completly of, but it sure made a mess. It cleans up off of shoes, concrete, toolboxs, and many other things with acetone. All I need now is the T-shirt. I hope I still have enough. I have the aft two floorboards ready to remove and I was just waiting for the POR-15. I was going to do this on Sat. but the radiator was leaking on my wifes Jeep when she got home, so now I'll be refocused on that.
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Old 11-03-2006, 06:35 PM   #25
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If you miss a spot on your skin and wait more than 30 minutes or so acetone will not do anything.

You have to wear it off
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Old 11-04-2006, 07:30 AM   #26
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Aerowood - I used a single quart in two sessions and got the following coverage on my 27' Overlander (which used to look as big as a tennis court when I was on my back underneath it)...

3 coats - Hitch & 'A' frame back to ladder frame welds; Axle flange plates inner & outer; Rear bumper frame and BW tank area; every surface touched by belly aluminum; Step frame and mechanisim.... 2 coats - Entire outriggers & outer ladder frame ; FW tank frame; Spars spot coated....

Many places had good asphalt based paint left so they got covered with 3 coats of rustoleum. The POR-15 paint has hustle, it really is easy to use and has alot better coverage than I was imagining it would.

I went for the 4-qt gallon special & have a two quarts of silver and one of gloss black left over that I will probably end up selling on eBay or something...
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Old 11-04-2006, 08:01 PM   #27
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[quote=Aerowood]It would probably not cause corrosion unless the joint got wet. However as stated in the previous posts they will most likely vibrate loose. I plan on attaching my interior skin back on with flush rivets and then splice all the skin together using splice plates and a butt joint.

Could you provide a picture when done? Not sure what you're referring to when you say splice the skin together.

thanks
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Old 11-05-2006, 02:48 PM   #28
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The current method that Airstream uses to attach interior and exterior skins together is called a lap joint. What I plan on doing to the interior skins is to cut either the top or botton skin off so that they donot overlap but actually butt up to one another. In order to attach them together or splice them together will require a splice or doubler riveted to the back sides of both skins making the joint flush. All rivets used will be countersunk (or dimpled skin) solid and blind rivets. Paintable textured wall paper can then be applied without having ridges and pop rivet protusions for a very smooth finish. I am doing this because the interior shin has alot of extra small and large (speaker holes) that need to be repaired and I cannot afford to replace all of the interior skins that have been abused by PO's.
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