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Old 06-09-2007, 09:18 AM   #81
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I never did know the name of the place as its kind of fly by night, deal only in cash. I think the address is 3575 South Clay street in Englewood. Phone # 303-815-9072. It's at the dead end of South Clay (A few blocks east of Federal) at Hampden (285). They are closing up and looks like they are almost giving everything away at rock bottom prices. The water heater I bought was the newest they had. A lady came in looking for one as I was getting ready to go and asked if I wanted to sell the one I just bought for triple the price. She ended up buying an older Atwood but I didn't catch the price, she seemed pleased though. A lot of stuff there, only one Airstream and it had been cut in half and used to store tanks. I was looking for a stove too but everything they had was a POS. Found the place on Craigslist.
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Old 06-23-2007, 06:48 PM   #82
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more teardown

Worked most of yesterday removing the rt fwd skins and window. Window was removed due to not fitting properly and leaking. I found that the window had already been replaced once and that the window now installed is not as wide as the original leaving the original holes outside the window frame. I will have to double flush these holes and file part of the upper and lower frames to receive the window better. I will also need to reform the window frame somewhat. I also removed the rt fwd skin and the one just in front of the door. Will start fabricating new on Sunday after I get the repairs done to the window
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Old 06-26-2007, 11:33 AM   #83
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Hey, what if I brought you a pile of new sheet aluminum? Maybe that would be faster!

I met a guy in Salt Lake last week who replaced his side view windows and in doing so "discovered" that their frame is "flexible." When he first put it in it was obvious that the curve of the frame was not right--too large a radius. The Airstream shop people told him to sequentially "pull it in" to the shell from the edge adjacent to the front flat window. They said the glazing isn't glass, but a plastic that becomes hard after a few days of exposure to UV. I find this to be hard to believe, considering the label in the corner of the "glass."

Anyway, you work continues to amaze! I'll be up later in the week. If your window is still out, I'd like to inspect the joint with the front window. I'm still thinking of removing mine permanently.

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Old 06-26-2007, 05:59 PM   #84
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Plugging holes

I worked on the rt side window today
First pics show the extra holes.

The third and forth pics show the double counter sunk holes filled with MS20426A4-X rivets.

The fifth pic shows shaving the rivets flush.

The sixth and seventh show the before and after.

The last pic show the removel of the fwd skin. Five hidden pop rivets behind the front window frame
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Old 06-26-2007, 06:02 PM   #85
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Kip,

Did you add that stringer on the outboard edge of th window as part of the effort to seal the extra window holes?

I'm curious about shaving the double flush rivets. I assume that you only have to shave the bucked side?

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Old 06-26-2007, 06:20 PM   #86
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The outbd stringer or vertical frame was already there. I had to shave both sides because I put a very shallow countersink on both sides. I could have used NAS1097 shear head rivets and not have to shave the outside but I did not have them in A's, so the MS20426's had to do. If I had countersunk the skin for the 426's to set flush, the countersink would have greatly increased the hole size.
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Old 07-10-2007, 05:42 PM   #87
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I'm back at it after installing new hardwood floors in the house. I drilled and fitted up the fwd skin using .050, the fwd rt corner using .032, and the small skin in front or the door using .040. I also replaced the stringers on the small skin in front of the door. A few more holes to pick up, trim up to final size, and priming still needs to be done before I'm ready to shoot them on. I'm pushing to get this done before I have to go to Christmas Island at the end of the month.
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Old 09-17-2007, 07:33 PM   #88
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update

I've been busy this last couple of months and am finally getting back at it. First is a couple of Archery Hunt Camp and then some before and after, fwd banana wrap pictures. I also have the new skins pictured in my last post all primed on the inside and mating surfaces. The banana wrap is also primed on the inside and mating surfaces. I was going to work on it this coming weekend but I found out today that I'm taking the C130 down to Tucson to get it washed after my trip to Christmas Island. I guess I'll just have to wait on installing all the new skins and parts that are ready to go on.
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Old 09-17-2007, 09:48 PM   #89
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Welcome back, Kip. Nice banana skins. More later.

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Old 09-17-2007, 09:58 PM   #90
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Hi, what is the purpose of using three different thickneses of aluminum? Or is that the way it was originally built?
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Old 09-18-2007, 05:32 AM   #91
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I think you could call Kip a "scrounger." Plus that .050 is just about bullet proof. Maybe he's worried DOORGUNNER might show up from California for real...

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Old 09-18-2007, 06:51 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS
Hi, what is the purpose of using three different thickneses of aluminum? Or is that the way it was originally built?
I used the .032 for the corner skins because it is easier to form. I used the .040 for the side skins because it does not distort like the .032 when installing 5/32 solid shank rivets, and I'm using .050 because I can, and because the front and back skins are integral to the shell to frame interface. I,m using .063 for all the new stringers because I plane on using them for the interior component hardpoints. I also plan to attach the frames and stringers together for a more unified shell strusture. I'm aslo am worried I might have to hide bhind the front skin if Doorgunner does comes to Colorado
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Old 09-18-2007, 07:03 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
...I'm using .050 because I can, and because the front and back skins are integral to the shell to frame interface. I,m using .063 for all the new stringers because I plane on using them for the interior component hardpoints. I also plan to attach the frames and stringers together for a more unified shell strusture. I'm aslo am worried I might have to hide bhind the front skin if Doorgunner does comes to Colorado
Come on, admit it, you're going to pressurize it for camping on Vail pass...while you play jet engine sound effects loudly.

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Old 09-18-2007, 07:19 AM   #94
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I was thinking more of Mt Evans, and remember I,m a Herc kinda guy so it would be turbo prop noise
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Old 09-18-2007, 08:06 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
I was thinking more of Mt Evans, and remember I,m a Herc kinda guy so it would be turbo prop noise
yeah, but a turbine's a turbine. yours just whines more than it screams. (I hope Kevbo or BamCamper doesn't read this or the thread will be totally hijacked...

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Old 09-18-2007, 10:14 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
I was thinking more of Mt Evans, and remember I,m a Herc kinda guy so it would be turbo prop noise
Hi, you can have Mount Evans. If I remember correctly, it was a very long narrow up hill drive with very steep slopes on the sides of the road without guard rails. Barely enough room for two cars to pass and the higher up you go the narrower the road gets. I was very nervous, thinking like a mechanic, if I popped a tire or lost my brakes we would go off the side with no stopping until we hit bottom. [16,000 feet] And it would be weeks before someone would find our bodies. This is one of those things where I can say we done it once and will never do it again. The view from the top and the mountain goats wandering around up there was great, but never again.
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Old 09-19-2007, 02:24 PM   #97
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Step

The entry step is all repaired, sand blasted, and in the the booth ready for paint
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Old 09-30-2007, 07:45 PM   #98
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Well I spent about 5 hours today trying to get the Rt. front corner ready to shoot on. I got the reworked banana wrap all drilled up and just need to cut the lower corner skin off to ED of the lower holes. I also got the lower portion of the front skin all drilled up. I still need to fabricate the banana wrap for the skin in front of the door, I'll try to get that done this week. I also installed the repaired step, it sure is nice having it back in place. Still need to put the anti-skid on it to make it a bit less slippery.
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Old 10-05-2007, 05:53 PM   #99
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Ready to shoot

No pics today, I forgot the camera. I had a very productive day today, the rt. fwd skins back to the door and banana wraps are all ready to shoot on. I did shoot the rivets that I could reach though. Tomorrow AM one of my co-workers (Brent) is going to buck for beer. We should have the rest of the rt. front shot on by noon at the latest.
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Old 10-05-2007, 08:01 PM   #100
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No way !

Hey guys; I used to run the Marina at Lake Dillon in the early80's, I've "done" Colorado.
And trust me. I would no way even make an attempt to harm a reworked AS!!
Now for the questions.
Kip;
this week I etched and alondined a prop mount for a prototype airboat.I think the alu was 6061-T6. think.
In the past I've used the same chemicals and the alu turned a real nice soft gold color. That did not happen this time. The previous spinners were 2024. See where I'm going with this. Why the change of color? Chemicals came from the same 2 jugs! Just wondering if type of alu comes into play.
I recall reading on another thread that Aircraft Spruce also sells alodine that will not color the alu. any comments! Kip- Zep- Melody R- Boatdoc ??
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